Zak Reviewshttps://zakreviews.com/2024-03-11T00:00:00+00:00Review: Acebeam E75 - an efficient general-purpose flashlight with great color rendering, USB-C charging and a 21700 battery2024-03-11T00:00:00+00:002024-03-11T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2024-03-11:/acebeam-e75.html<p>Some tools do their jobs so well they're a little boring to write about. The E75 provides everything most of us could want in a midsize flashlight, and very little we wouldn't.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e75?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam E75</a> (affiliate link) was provided by Acebeam for review.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e75/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e75/0009.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Acebeam E75 is a general-purpose floody flashlight with a 21700 battery, USB-C charging, a strong magnet in the tailcap, excellent efficiency and color quality. It struck me as a bit boring when it was first announced, but it's the best kind of boring; it does its job very well with no surprises and easily justifies its price.</p>
<p>Most people will find the E75 too large for carry in a pants pocket, but it's a good size for a jacket pocket or backpack. The beam is on the floody side, but provides adequate throw for most general use situations on higher modes. The color temperature is on the cool side, but the color rendering is excellent, and the look resembles midday sunlight. It will get warm in the process, but it's capable of maintaining its 1526 lumen high mode for over 100 minutes until the battery runs out, but there's plenty of warning from the colored LEDs surrounding the switch.</p>
<p>It's hard to find anything to complain about with the E75, but I'll try: the button doesn't provide much tactile feedback, and unprotected cells can rattle, or disconnect if the light is shaken vigorously. I love it when my worst complaints about a flashlight are such minor issues.</p>
<p>It's rare I get to write this: the Acebeam E75 is <strong>outstanding</strong>.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0008.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0007.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x21700</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Nichia 519A, or unspecified cool white LED</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>5873K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>96</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>4195 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>214 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>1526 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>2651 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>190 lm/W @ 221 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>2.6 (very floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>129mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>35mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>145g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>217g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Water resistance</td>
<td>IP68 (2m submersible)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes, 2.7V</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★★ (outstanding)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Very efficient</li>
<li>Excellent color rendering</li>
<li>Balanced beam profile</li>
<li>Great build quality</li>
<li>Strong magnet</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Unprotected flat-top batteries can rattle and break contact</li>
<li>Button feel is mushy and unsatisfying</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The E75 comes in black, grey, green, and teal with a choice of Nichia 519A or unspecified cool-white LEDs. This is the teal, 519A version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The E75 comes with a battery, USB A-C cable, spare O-rings, spare USB port cover, and lanyard. Optional, and highly recommended for their trivial cost are red and white traffic wand style diffusers.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e75/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e75/0006.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0020.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0020.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0021.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0021.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<h3>Modes</h3>
<table class="modes" data-key="Acebeam E75" />
<h3>User Interface</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used (L/M/H)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Moonlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle L/M/H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 3S</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 3S</td>
<td>Moonlight</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is a mechanical lockout by slightly loosening the tailcap.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Tests were conducted using a Samsung 50S 5000 mAh 21700 battery. I should note some of these lumen readings seem a little optimistic to me.</p>
<p>Turbo on the E75 has an unusual soft start, taking a few seconds to reach full output. A casual user might think it's not as bright as it really is.</p>
<table class="runtime" data-key="Acebeam E75" />
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="Acebeam E75" /></p>
<p>The E75 compares well to other floody lights using 5000 mAh batteries:</p>
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="Single-cell flooders, high modes" /></p>
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="Single-cell flooders, medium modes" /></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table class="color" data-key="Acebeam E75" />
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0014.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0015.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0015.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The 519A option is advertised as 5000K, but I think these are actually the 5700K bin. I usually prefer a little warmer, but the color rendering is so good I won't complain.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Turbo, high, and Zebralight SC64c LE as my standard reference light:</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e75/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e75/0002.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e75/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e75/0003.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e75/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e75/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Tint versus BLF 348, Zebralight SC64c LE, and Skilhunt M200 v2 519A</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e75/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e75/0010.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e75/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e75/0011.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e75/0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e75/0012.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The E75 can use any 21700 Li-ion battery of reasonable quality. It's intended for protected cells and the springs are a little short with unprotected cells. Shaking the flashlight can result in rattling, and the cell can disconnect. A magnet on the negative end can improve the connection, but it's important to align it with the polarity of the tailcap magnet. An 18650 with a third-party spacer can be used in a pinch.</p>
<p>Charging is via USB-C and takes about 3.5 hours. Standard C-C cables work with the E75.</p>
<p>This is not the most efficient way to get a charged 21700 into the E75:</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e75/0022.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e75/0022.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e75/0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e75/0013.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The E75 can be carried in a pants pocket if necessary, but I think that's best reserved for times when its large battery and strong performance will be required over a smaller flashlight. The screwed-on pocket clip is very sturdy, and I have carried it in a pants pocket for a short time, but I think most people would find it better suited to a backpack or jacket pocket.</p>
<p>Goose for scale:</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0004.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>In the hand, the E75 provides a reliable grip and is easy to use with gloves on. The button, surrounded by raised ridges is easy to find, but not very satisfying to press with its short travel and minimal feedback.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The steel bezel had just a touch of threadlocker holding it in place, but wasn't terribly hard to unscrew, allowing access to the reflector and emitters. The emitters are wired with two in series (6-volt nominal), so it would be possible to use 6-volt LEDs on a different board.</p>
<p>I did the first thing most hobbyists do to modify 519As and removed the domes. This results in more rosy tint, warmer color temperature, more throw, and less output. Interestingly, the R9 score is reduced a little and R12 is improved.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0016.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0016.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e75/0017.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e75/0017.jpg" /></a></p>
<table class="color" data-key="Dedomed" />
<p>Maximum output (at 30 seconds) is reduced to 3690 lm and throw increases to 271m (18383cd). That's 5 cd/lm, which is still somewhat floody, but more balanced. Beam artifacts are slightly increased, but not bad. Here it is with the BLF 348:</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e75/0018.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e75/0018.jpg" /></a></p>Review: Skilhunt EK1 - a twisty keychain light with USB-C charging and an optional high-CRI LED2024-03-05T00:00:00+00:002024-03-05T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2024-03-05:/skilhunt-ek1.html<p>The EK1 is Skilhunt's take on a twisty keychain light in the style of the CooYoo Quantum. It has USB-C charging, optional high CRI, and a larger battery than most, but the battery isn't field-replaceable.</p><p>This <a href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2180708&u=4157787&m=132958&urllink=www%2Eskilhunt%2Ecom%2Fproduct%2Fek1%2D180%2Dlumens%2Dusb%2Dc%2Dedc%2Dmini%2Dtiny%2Dkeychain%2Drechargeable%2Dled%2Dflashlight%2F&afftrack=">Skilhunt EK1</a> (affiliate link) was provided by Skilhunt for review.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Skilhunt EK1 is a keychain flashlight with USB-C charging optional high-CRI, and a two-position twist switch. It resembles the previously popular CooYoo Quantum and similar lights from other brands, but has a larger battery and modern charging. Unfortunately, the battery is not field-replaceable.</p>
<p>It won't be a surprise to most people who have read my articles in the past that the low-CRI SST-20 is not the LED option I would recommend here. It is extremely green and does not have an output advantage that would justify giving up the color quality.</p>
<p>For those who want a small keychain light, the EK1 is <strong>Conditionally Recommended</strong> with the high-CRI LED option.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ek1/0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0014.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x10220</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>SST-20, 219F</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>6329K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>69</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>162 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>60 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>122 lm/W @ 12 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>5.6 (floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>50.5 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>14.6 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>14.8 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$19</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★☆☆ (conditionally recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Compliant USB-C (use any power supply)</li>
<li>Larger battery than many competitors</li>
<li>Optional high CRI</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Battery is not field-replaceable</li>
<li>No low-voltage protection</li>
<li>No moonlight mode</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The EK1 comes in red, blue, green, and orange with a choice of low-CRI SST-20 or high-CRI 219F LEDs. This is the orange, SST-20 version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The EK1 comes with a USB-A to USB-C cable, keyring, and spare O-rings</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table class="modes" data-key="EK1" />
<p>The EK1's user interface is very simple: tighten the head to turn on low; tighten more for high.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<table class="runtime" data-key="EK1" />
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="EK1" /></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table class="color" data-key="EK1" />
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>EK1 vs Zebralight SC64c LE and BLF 348</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ek1/b1.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ek1/b1.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ek1/b2.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ek1/b2.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Note the Zebralight SC64c LE used for reference here is a much larger and more poweful light. It's my standard reference for everything even though a comparison would be unreasonable.</p>
<p>Low, high, SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0005.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0006.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0002.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0003.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The 10220 Li-ion battery is not field-replaceable. Its capacity is listed at 130 mAh. That's larger than many competitors in this segment, as the previous common battery was a 10180 with a capacity of 80 mAh. Charging is via USB-C, and C-C cables do work. It takes about 90 minutes to charge from empty.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ek1/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0008.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>With a bit of wiggling and tugging, the head comes off the battery compartment. Some pulling on a plastic retaining clip with tweezers allows removal of the charging pill and battery. I did not find reliable suppliers for batteries in this size with a quick web search, though there are some sellers offering them on Aliexpress. </p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0011.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0009.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ek1/0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0012.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p>The EK1 is about half the length of an AAA light, allowing it to go nearly unnoticed on most keyrings.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ek1/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0007.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Removing a pair of tiny screws inside the head grants access to the MCPCB, which also has some resistors on it to serve as the EK1's driver. Swaps to other 3V 3535 size emitters are possible, though it's more challenging to reflow than a standard MCPCB. I put a high-CRI SST-20 in mine.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ek1/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0010.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ek1/0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ek1/0013.jpg" /></a></p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights - Winter Solstice 2023 Edition2023-12-22T00:00:00+00:002023-12-22T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-12-22:/arbitrary-list-2023.3.htmlIn honor of Winter Solstice, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight in the northern hemisphere; if you're shopping for one, I hope this will help.
<div class="alist">
<h1>Happy Solstice!</h1>
<p>
In honor of Winter Solstice, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight in the northern hemisphere; if you're shopping for one, I hope this will help<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/arbitrary-list-2023.3/0001.jpg">.</a>
</p>
<p>
There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. Please take note that prices and availability may change - feel free to leave a comment if you notice a mismatch. To search more lights by their attributes, try <a href="http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html">Parametrek Search</a>.
</p>
<p>
Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. Some lights in the list offer affiliate links marked with 💵 and <strong>(aff)</strong> which will result in the dealer paying me a small commission if you buy a light through the link. There is <strong>always</strong> a non-affiliate option if you don't want to be tracked. I also have two affiliate coupon codes that apply to some of the dealers:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://killzoneflashlights.com?ref=9">Killzone Flashligths</a> (aff): zakreviews</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam.com</a> (aff): ZW10</li>
</ul>
I also have a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">💵 tip jar 💵</a> at Ko-Fi. Nobody should feel obligated to use either, but it's certainly appreciated.
</p>
<h1>Index</h1>
<p>Direct links to sections for quick navigation</p>
<ul>
<ul><a href="#quick">The quick list - start here if you're in a hurry</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#keychain">Small keychain lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#aaa">AAA and 10440 battery pocket lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#aa">AA and 14500 battery pocket lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#16340">16340 and CR123A battery pocket lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#18350">18350 battery pocket lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#18650">18650 battery pocket lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#shl">Small headlamps</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#mhl">Medium headlamps</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#lhl">Large headlamps</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#flood">High-performance flood lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#throw">High-performance spot lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#hybrid">High-performance general-purpose lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#fun">Fun lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#eedc">Enthusiast pocket lights</a></ul>
<ul><a href="#jacket">Larger enthusiast lights</a></ul>
</ul>
<h1>About specs</h1>
<p>
Lumens are total output. Don't worry about small differences in output. You probably can't detect a 10% difference in lumens with your eyes, and 20% is barely noticeable. It takes 4 times the lumens to look twice as bright. Candela is intensity, which translates to throw distance. FL1 throw numbers are about right for detecting large objects; cut them in half for seeing clearly. Extreme throw distances also run in to limits imposed by human vision and by backscatter in the atmosphere. Warmer tints have less backscatter.
</p>
<p>
FL1 runtime numbers are to 10% output and can be misleading. Look for a review with a runtime graph.
</p>
<p>
Performance specs for AA and AAA powered lights are usually given with NiMH rechargeable batteries. Alkalines don't perform as well, and may leak corrosive electrolyte.
</p>
<h2>Considerations</h2>
<p>
Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:
</p>
<ul>
<li> Neutral white tint - the vast majority of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"</li>
<li> A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges</li>
<li> A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off</li>
<li> A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes</li>
<li> An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer</li>
<li> A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway</li>
<li> Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is 99. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.</li>
<li> A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)</li>
<li> A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes</li>
<li> A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off. </li>
</ul>
<h1 id="quick">The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>
All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the Catapult, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details.
</p>
<p>
This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos FC11 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $34 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A budget general-use light with USB-C charging. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like the Nichia 519A LED best, as it looks close to sunlight. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/wurkkos-fc11.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M150 v3 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A smaller everyday carry light with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long. The Nichia 519A option is strongly recommended
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2022/10/28/skilhunt-m150v3-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M200 v3 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $65 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A (recommended) or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/skilhunt-m200-v3.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam EC35 II 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $77 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld tactical light or duty light. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/killzone-acebeam-ec35.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H150 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A headlamp version of the M150, also usable handheld, and as magnetic work light. 14500 Li-ion battery (included) with USB/magnetic charging, but it can use AA as a backup. Nichia 519A version strongly recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h150">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h150?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://tgreviews.com/2023/07/30/skilhunt-h150/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP36 (BLF) 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="description">
A large high-output light with three 18650 batteries It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is sometimes available for those who miss the look of incandescents.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2022/02/22/sofirn-sp36-blf-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn IF22A 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A long range light that can light up large objects 700m away and provide clear vision at half that. Rechargeable battery and USB-C charging included.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://1lumen.com/review/sofirn-if22a/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h3>
<p>
These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.
</p>
<h3 id="keychain">Small keychain lights</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore Tube 2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
$11
</div>
<div class="description">
A brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNXL5K8">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNXL5K8?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Rovyvon Aurora A1 USB-C (219C)
</div>
<div class="price">
$28
</div>
<div class="description">
Neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB-C charging, 16g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. Nichia 219C option recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/aurora-a1-4th-gen-metal-switch-usb-c-keychain-flashlight?variant=44150462284091">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt EK1
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="description">
Two mode twist-switch light with USB-C charging. There used to be many lights this size with removable 10180 batteries, but they have mostly disappeared in favor of non-removable. At least this one offers a larger battery and high CRI option.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/ek1-180-lumens-usb-c-edc-mini-tiny-keychain-rechargeable-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ek1">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ek1?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2023/03/15/skilhunt-ek1-high-cri-keychain-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h3 id="aaa">AAA Battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt E3A
</div>
<div class="price">
$14
</div>
<div class="description">
A simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch and a high CRI option (recommended).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/e3a-aaa-100-lumens-pocket-edc-keychain-mini-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix E01 V2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
$13
</div>
<div class="description">
A basic twisty light that gives up the E3A's color quality for three modes instead of one.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlighting.com/products/fenix-e01-v2-aaa-flashlight">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore MT06MD
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219B as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X8YXT7">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X8YXT7?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3 id="aa">AA/14500 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP10 Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
$22
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $24 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A sophisticated AA/14500 sideswitch light running Toykeeper's excellent Anduril 2 firmware. By default, it's a simple ramping UI with mode memory, but a great deal of customization is available. 900lm max on a 14500, and a high-CRI Samsung LH351D is the only LED option. Available by itself, or with a battery and charger bundle. Priced higher at Amazon, but no waiting for shipping from China.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10pro-aa-flashlight-anduril-2-attiny1616-version-lh351d-led-90cri">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VNM4NKQ">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VNM4NKQ?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/sp10-pro.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M150
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A favorite AA/14500 light now with the latest community-favorite LED: the high-CRI Nichia 519A in both neutral and warm. The M150 has a sideswitch with shortcuts, magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/portfolio/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2022/10/28/skilhunt-m150v3-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt E2A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $22 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A basic light with an optional high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/e2a-14500-aa-600-lumens-pocket-edc-mini-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam Pokelit AA
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
AA/14500 with high CRI, three modes, a tailswitch, and USB-charging 14500 battery included. Just avoid the grey, low-CRI version.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-aa">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-aa?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2022/08/26/acebeam-pokelit-aa-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h3 id="16340">CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC21
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $33 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. 4000K (afternoon sunlight) and 2700K (incandescent-like) are also offered.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC21 Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $32 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
The above with ToyKeeper's sophisticated Anduril firmware, but worse efficiency and output that drops as the battery drains.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3 id="18350">18350 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite T1
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $40 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Eagletac DX3B Mk II
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h3 id="18650">18650 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight SC65c HI
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
The SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. This version is more throwy than previous offerings.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.zebralight.com/SC65c-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_254.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC32
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $41 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This is like a Wurkkos FC11 with a tail e-switch and TIR optic. It's not very efficient, but moderately-priced and optionally has nice tint and color rendering with the Nichia 519A option.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6T4WX3M">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6T4WX3M?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP31 v2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $31 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M200 v3
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $64 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A (recommended) or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/skilhunt-m200-v3.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos FC11
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $34 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's inexpensive. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/wurkkos-fc11.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix PD32 v2
</div>
<div class="price">
$60
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://tgreviews.com/2021/08/14/fenix-pd32-v2-review-thyrm-switchback-2-0/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam EC35 II
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $77 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, and it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/killzone-acebeam-ec35.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E70 Mini
</div>
<div class="price">
$70
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A triple-emitter high-CRI Niciha 519A light with a tail e-switch and USB-charging 18650 included. People who wanted a better-made FW3A should look at this, though the UI is different.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2022/07/04/acebeam-e70-mini-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>
If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.
</p>
<h2 id="shl">Small</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H150
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Despite a rough launch involving a recall, this is my favorite small headlamp. 14500 battery and magnetic charging, but also compatible with AA. Optional Nichia 519A LED with excellent color rendering and a choice of 4500K (afternoon sunlight) or 3000K (incandescent-like). Stable output as the battery drains, which is unusual in this class. Also works as a pocket light and magnetic work light.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/h150-aa-14500-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-headlamp/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h150">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h150?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://tgreviews.com/2023/07/30/skilhunt-h150/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn HS10
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $22 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A small and inexpensive, but power-inefficient 1x16340 right-angle light with high CRI and USB-C charging. Amazon price is a bit higher.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 Mini RC
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore HA11
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="description">
Lightweight, single-AA, and very inexpensive. It doesn't compare favorably to all-metal headlamps with a higher price, but it sure is cheap and lightweight.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/ha11">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS7787XD">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS7787XD?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H53Fc N
</div>
<div class="price">
$69
</div>
<div class="description">
As we've come to expect from Zebralight, this is efficient, durable and has an ultra-low mode for dark adaptation and extreme runtime. It now uses the Nichia 519A LED for world-class tint and color quality.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.zebralight.com/H53Fc-N-Neutral-White-High-CRI-AA-Floody-Headlamp-_p_253.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore NU25 UL
</div>
<div class="price">
$37
</div>
<div class="description">
When weight counts above nearly all else, the 45g NU25 UL, which has a non-removable battery and USB-C charging could be the winner. I don't like recommending lights with non-removable batteries, but the ultralight crowd should like this one.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25ul">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-UL-Lightweight-Rechargeable/dp/B0BJ2GQ3PK">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-UL-Lightweight-Rechargeable/dp/B0BJ2GQ3PK?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2 id="mhl">Medium</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 RC
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A solid all-around right-angle light with magnetic charging and my favorite headband on the market. The popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown and has a magnetic tailcap. These offer a high-CRI Nichia 519A, which is recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/h04-rc-led-headlamp/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/skilhunt-h04f-rc.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP40A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $36 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
High CRI (with LH351D), USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JKFJY43">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JKFJY43?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H600Fd IV
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
A very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H600Fc IV
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
The H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $95 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "zakreviews" for a discount.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H300
</div>
<div class="price">
$70
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A similar design to the Wizard C2 Pro with a lower price and better headband. The moonlight mode isn't as low as the Wizard. Now that a high-CRI option is offered, I have reason to add it to the list.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://tgreviews.com/2023/06/12/skilhunt-h300/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h2 id="lhl">Large</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam H30
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $120 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. Noncompliant USB-C behavior requires charging with an A-to-C cable.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos HD20
</div>
<div class="price">
$40
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix HP30R v2
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $220 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Heavy-Duty-Rechargeable-Floodlight-Detachable/dp/B09NP9RQMB">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Heavy-Duty-Rechargeable-Floodlight-Detachable/dp/B09NP9RQMB?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2 id="duty">Duty lights</h2>
<p>
These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam L35
</div>
<div class="price">
$110
</div>
<div class="description">
Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l35">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l35?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Eagletac GX30L2-R
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $120 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam L18
</div>
<div class="price">
$85
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $105 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>
Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.
</p>
<h2 id="flood">Flooders</h2>
<p>
Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $100 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A quad-emitter flooder with a 21700 battery, USB-C charging and an impressive ability to maintain high output with the excellent color quality of the optional Nichia 519A LEDs.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e75?variant=44015681994977">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e75?variant=44015681994977?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e75">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e75?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2023/08/14/acebeam-e75-nichia-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite TC20 v2
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $70 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 208 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/B0C22VZB29">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/B0C22VZB29?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/thrunite-tc20v2.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP36 BLF edition
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $67 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging, USB powerbank. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not always. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zeroair.org/2022/02/22/sofirn-sp36-blf-flashlight-review/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E70 FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/acebeam-e70-fc40.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt EC300
</div>
<div class="price">
$68
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $81 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A quad-emitter flooder with a 21700 battery and a choice of low or high CRI Luminus SST-20s and RGB secondary emitters. Lights fitting that description aren't rare lately, but this one has standards-compliant USB-C charging and a powerbank feature with output around 5V/3A. That makes it one of the most effective powerbank/flashlight combinations that might fit in a pants pocket.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://zakreviews.com/skilhunt-ec300.html">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h2 id="throw">Throwers</h2>
What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.
FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn IF22A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://1lumen.com/review/sofirn-if22a/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite Catapult Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A 26650 battery thrower with high output, 1km FL1 throw, and USB-C charging.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam K75
</div>
<div class="price">
$322
</div>
<div class="description">
2.5km and 6500lm, but large with 4x18650 batteries and a 13cm wide head.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/k75-high-power-flashlight">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/k75-high-power-flashlight?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2 id="hybrid">Hybrids</h2>
<p>
Some throw, some flood... probably a lot
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy 4x18A SBT90
</div>
<div class="price">
$75
</div>
<div class="description">
budget light in this category with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002647258079.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam X75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $400 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
One of the highest output lights on the market at 80,000 lumens, a figure I believe to be more honest than the Imalent MS18's claimed 100,000. There's also a throwy version with 67,000 claimed lumens and throw increased to 1306m from 1150. Waterproof/submersible in spite of a cooling fan and USB-PD powerbank function (up to 20V 3A output, able to power many laptop computers). The battery pack is, unfortunately proprietary.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1 id="fun">Toys</h1>
<p>
Most of the list focuses on lights that are <strong>practical</strong>. Here are a few people love where practical utility isn't the primary concern.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam Terminator M1
</div>
<div class="price">
$290
</div>
<div class="description">
Nobody reasonable would stick a zoomable LEP on the side of a triple 519A flooder, would they? Acebeam did and people seem to love it.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-terminator-m1-dual-head-lep-flashlight?variant=44047286763745">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-terminator-m1-dual-head-lep-flashlight?variant=44047286763745?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://1lumen.com/review/acebeam-terminator-m1/">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt MiX 7
</div>
<div class="price">
$76
</div>
<div class="description">
Seven LEDs, five colors (white, red, green, blue, UV) and an 18350 battery may not be the most practical combination, but colors are fun! The UV is 1W @ 365nm so it's useful for those who have a practical case for UV, and the white LEDs can be Nichia 519As with the expected outstanding tinit and color rendering.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-mix-7">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-mix-7?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://budgetlightforum.com/t/review-skilhunt-eskte-mix-7-multicolor-edc-flashlight-with-uv/221484">Review</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1 id="other">Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Pelican 3315 CC
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix WF30RE
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $100 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
The closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn BLF LT1
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $87 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy Z1 B35A
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
Zoomable flashlights usually aren't very good (bulky, heavy, poor waterproofing), but this is one of the best for those who must have that feature. The B35A version has a boost driver for efficiency and stable output, as well as excellent tint and color rendering. Other LED options are available with different traits, but few are currently in stock.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001237268675.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Enthusiast Lights</h1>
<p>
Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.
</h1>
<h2 id="eedc">Everyday Carry</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4v2
</div>
<div class="price">
$45
</div>
<div class="description">
Every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. There are many LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4500K, 90+ CRI Nichia 519A to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, different optics, and high-efficiency boost driver. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. Price increases with options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4v2 channel switching
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
The above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon KR4
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
This a tail-e-switch D4.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar DW4
</div>
<div class="price">
$50
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a D4, but the light comes out the side, making it suitable as a magnetic work light or headlamp.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-dw4-right-angle-1-18650-work-light.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4K
</div>
<div class="price">
$50
</div>
<div class="description">
D4 with a 21700 battery. It's exactly what you'd expect.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4k-1-21700-high-power-quad-edc-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy S3/B35AM
</div>
<div class="price">
$15
</div>
<div class="description">
The Convoy S-series has always been a popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer. It now offers a boost driver with better efficiency than provious models and two of Nichia's 6-volt LEDs. The B35A and 719A are both compelling, with the former having better color and the latter having more throw. 18650 battery.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805793953289.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos TS10
</div>
<div class="price">
$18
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $20 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A 14500 (not AA) light with a tail E-switch, Anduril 2, and three high-CRI CSP emitters for a floody 1400 lumens.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy S21E B35AM/719A
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who don't want to pay Zebralight $90 to try out Nichia's new stacked LED, how about $20? For a more general-use LED, the B35AM has the tint and color rendering of the 519A with higher efficiency. I think this is a record low price for a boost driver light with USB-C charging. 21700 battery not included.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805787589077.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h2 id="jacket">Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D1K
</div>
<div class="price">
$29
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a jacket pocket 1x21700 light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. Several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. A boost driver option is now offered with a Cree XHP70.3 HI, high-CRI Getian FC40, Nichia B35A, or Nichia 719A. Price increases with options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/emisar-d1k-21700-mini-pocket-thrower.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon KR1
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a tailswitch, 18650 version of the D1K.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy C8 SST-20
</div>
<div class="price">
$19
</div>
<div class="description">
1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but this C8 is the one most people should get.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy M21C FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$32
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the crumpled reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy M3-C FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$35
</div>
<div class="description">
A 1x26650 light with USB-C charging and excellent color rendering in a wide range of color tempertures from 1800K to 5500K.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803900100503.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy L21B SFT40
</div>
<div class="price">
$32
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, 1258m throw, Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x this price? It wasn't long ago.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy L21B 719A
</div>
<div class="price">
$31
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, 775m throw, Remember when serious throwers had terrible color? Not anymore!
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805626068133.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon Meteor M44
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650 and 16 LEDs with two channels and an efficient driver with the usual large selection of customization optios we expect from Noctigon.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-m44-meteor-4-quad-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1 id="pending">Pending</h1>
<p>
These lights are newly introduced or recently announced and expected to become popular, but aren't popular or even necessarily even available yet.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H200
</div>
<div class="description">
18650 right-angle headlamp with magnetic charging and two white (optionally 519A) LEDs and one red. Lots of people ask for a red option in headlamps, so this will probably be a hot seller. Pending because nobody actually has one yet.
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam Terminator M2
</div>
<div class="description">
Triple LEDs (optionally 519A) for flood and an ultra-throwy LED powered by an 18650 in an unconventional form factor. People seem to love the M1. Whether a more affordable alternative without the LEP will be popular remains to be seen.
</div>
</div>
</div>
Review: Sofirn SP10 Pro - an AA/14500 EDC light with Anduril 2 firmware2023-12-21T00:00:00+00:002023-12-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-12-21:/sp10-pro.html<p>The Sofirn SP10 Pro is the only flashlight running Anduril 2 and supporting both AA and 14500 batteries. It offers high CRI and a low price.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10pro-aa-flashlight-anduril-2-attiny1616-version">Sofirn SP10 Pro</a> was provided by Sofirn for review. This one got lost in the shuffle for a while - apologies for the delay.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Sofirn SP10 Pro is a budget everyday carry flashlight using a 14500 Li-ion or AA battery and running ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware. Its Samsung LED has good color rendering and a sunlight-like 5000K color temperature, but suffers from green tint. It has the lowest moonlight of any flashlight I've used, and an impressive maximum output. Efficiency is good given the small size and high CRI in its medium modes, but unimpressive on high. The pocket clip could use more ramp, and output is not perfectly regulated with a 14500 battery, but that's to be expected at such a low price point.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>With a regular price just over $20 and occasional discounts below that, the SP10 Pro offers a lot and is <strong>recommended</strong>.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0003.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0011.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x14500, 1xAA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Samsung LH351D</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>5322K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>89</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output (14500)</td>
<td>947lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (14500)</td>
<td>157m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output (AA)</td>
<td>403lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (AA)</td>
<td>102m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output (14500)</td>
<td>473lm [1]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery (14500)</td>
<td>765lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output (AA)</td>
<td>340lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>108 lm/W</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>6.5 (floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>88mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>20.5mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>40g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$22 ($24 with battery and charger)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>[1] Output is not stable with 14500 batteries</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Anduril UI (in simple mode by default)</li>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Impressive maximum output with both battery types</li>
<li>Great regulation with AA</li>
<li>Flashing pads allow firmware updates (with additional hardware)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Green tint</li>
<li>Flat-top 14500s don't work</li>
<li>Poor regulation with 14500</li>
<li>Pocket clip needs more ramp</li>
<li>Temperature sensor was not calibrated</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The SP10 Pro comes in several body colors, currently black, blue, green, and red.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The SP10 Pro includes a lanyard and spare O-rings. A 14500 battery and USB charger is optional for $2 extra, which is a good value.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The Anduril 2.0 firmware deserves its own article. Its advanced mode offers a great deal of customization, including min/max level, smooth ramp or a configurable number of steps, calibration and adjustment of the thermal throttling behavior, and special modes like candle and lightning storm simulations.</p>
<p>Anduril also offers a simple mode, which operates similarly to mainstream brands like Acebeam, Thrunite, and Olight.</p>
<p>Here's a UI diagram from <a href="https://budgetlightforum.com/t/anduril-2-ui-diagrams-generic-lumintop-sofirn/65927">Lux-Perpetua on BLF</a>.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/anduril2.png"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/anduril2.png" /></a></p>
<p>And the <a href="https://github.com/ToyKeeper/anduril/blob/trunk/docs/anduril-manual.md">official manual</a>.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>As received, the thermal calibration was significantly off, indicating 32C when the temperature was actually 18C. It is necessary to calibrate the light to get reasonable thermal management behavior. Runtimes were generated after calibration unless otherwise noted.</p>
<p>Anduril does not have fixed modes; the configuration of the light determines not only the number of modes, but their levels. Testing was conducted in a stepped, 7-mode configuration.</p>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<p>Mesurements were taken using a Panasonic Eneloop 1900 mAh AA NiMH rechargeable battery. Advertised minimum and maximum modes are 1 and 350 lumens</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>12</td>
<td>18</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>37</td>
<td>31</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>92</td>
<td>49</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6</td>
<td>227</td>
<td>77</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>7</td>
<td>403</td>
<td>102</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table class="modes", data-key="SP10 Pro Eneloop" />
<table class="runtime", data-key="SP10 Pro Eneloop" />
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="SP10 Pro Eneloop" /></p>
<p><img class="runtime" data-key = "SP10 Pro Eneloop thermal regulation" ></p>
<h3>14500 battery</h3>
<p>Measurements were taken using a Sofirn 900 mAh 14500 Li-ion rechargeable battery. Advertised minimum and maximum modes are 1 and 900 lumens with 119m throw on maximum.</p>
<table class="modes", data-key="SP10 Pro 14500" />
<table class="runtime", data-key="SP10 Pro 14500" />
<p>Output depends on battery voltage in all modes, and with the battery at 3.7V, the levels are (low), 3, 18, 55, 134, 286, 765.</p>
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="SP10 Pro 14500" /></p>
<p><img class="runtime" data-key="SP10 Pro 14500 thermal regulation" /></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table class="color", data-key="SP10 Pro 14500" />
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Outdoor beamshots are shown next to the Zebralight SC64c LE for reference only; a direct comparison between the two lights would be unfair.</p>
<p>14500 max vs Zebralight SC64c LE max</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0005.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0009.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>14500 sustainable vs Zebralight SC64c LE sustainable</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0006.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0010.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>AA max vs Zebralight SC64c LE max</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0007.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0009.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>AA sustainable vs Zebralight SC64c LE sustainable</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0008.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0010.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Tint vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0014.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Tint vs BLF 348</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0013.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>Any button-top AA or 14500 cell can be used in the SP10 Pro, including longer protected cells. The high power requirements on AA mean that alkaline batteries will perform badly at settings much over 100 lumens, which is true for other AA flashlights as well.</p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p>The SP10 Pro is a little larger than the more expensive Skilhunt M150, but still very unobtrusive for pocket carry. The pocket clip has very little ramp though, and does not insert easily into some pockets. The button is hard to find by feel, with little protection against accidental presses, and a spongy action.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The bezel is glued in place, but was not difficult to unscrew with strap wrenches, providing access to the reflector and LED. Most popular 3-volt LEDs could replace the original Samsung; a Nichia 519A would improve the flashlight. Flashing pads are provided to install firmware, and Anduril 2 is <a href="https://github.com/ToyKeeper/anduril/tree/trunk">open source</a>.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0015.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0015.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/sp10-pro/0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/sp10-pro/0012.jpg" /></a></p>Review: Nextorch TA30C - a small duty light with an interesting user interface2023-10-04T00:00:00+00:002023-10-04T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-10-04:/nextorch-ta30c.html<p>The Nextorch TA30C is a small, 18650-powered duty light with a rotary control and soft button on its tailswitch. Unfortunately, its driver does not befit its price point.</p><p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0019.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0019.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>This <a href="https://www.nextorch.com/products/ta30c-one-step-strobe-tactical-flashlight">Nextorch TA30C</a> was provided by Nextorch for review.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Nextorch TA30C is an 18650-powered duty-style flashlight with a unique rotary control on its tailcap. It's fairly compact for the category and can be carried in a pants pocket or belt holster. Its output and throw distance are average and the build quality is quite good, but its efficiency and regulation are poor. What's most distinct is its combination of rotary switch and soft-press button.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0014.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Unfortunately for the TA30C, its efficiency of 93 lm/W can only be justified by a low price or excellent color quality; the TA30C has a high price and terrible color quality. Brightness depends on battery voltage in all modes, which is normal for budget lights, or lights with extremely high output. Neither is true of the TA30C.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0015.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0015.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The biggest issue, however is the user interface. The well-placed rotary control falls short of its potential by offering only three modes instead of the continuous dimming seen from some brands. Trying to quickly access high with the rotary control is likely to result in an overshoot to strobe. Worse the tailswitch is half-press for high and full-press for strobe, with no change in effort making it very easy to get strobe by accident. This is clearly intended to be a "tactical" feature, but the police officers I've talked to about flashlights all say what they really want is foolproof access to high.</p>
<p>The TA30C incorporates some interesting design concepts, but gets basic functionality wrong, delivers poor value for money, and is <strong>not recommended</strong>.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0013.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x18650, 2xCR123A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Luminus SST-40</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>6022K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>66</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max lumens</td>
<td>1450</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (meters)</td>
<td>268</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable lumens</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max lumens at 50% battery</td>
<td>479</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>93 lm/W (medium mode)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>12.36 (balanced)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>135mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>30mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>97g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>149g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C port on included battery</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$89</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★☆☆☆ (not recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Good build quality</li>
<li>Tail rotary control is unique and ergonomic in a hammer grip</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Tailswitch activates strobe when trying for momentary high</li>
<li>Low CRI</li>
<li>Green tint</li>
<li>Poor efficiency</li>
<li>Output depends on battery voltage in all modes</li>
<li>No low-voltage protection (unprotected batteries can be damaged)</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The TA30C only comes one way.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TA30C comes with a battery with USB charging port, USB cable, holder for CR123A batteries, spare O-rings, lanyard, and user manual. A MOLLE-compatible pivoting holster is available for purchase separately.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<h3>Modes</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Candela</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>I</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>203</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>II</td>
<td>330</td>
<td>232</td>
<td>105</td>
<td>2735</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>III</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td>1450</td>
<td>268</td>
<td>17921</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>User interface</h3>
<p>A rotary ring on the tailcap has four positions: TAC (off), I, II, III, and Strobe. The tailswitch overrides these positions momentarily with a half-press being III (high) and a full-press being strobe. On releasing the button, the light returns to the setting selected with the ring.</p>
<p>Slightly loosening the tailcap locks out activation.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>The unique driver design made measuring current impossible.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>II</td>
<td>232</td>
<td>131</td>
<td>256</td>
<td>359</td>
<td>93</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>III</td>
<td>1450</td>
<td>1.84</td>
<td>2.44</td>
<td>127</td>
<td>91</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/ta30c-max.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/ta30c-max.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/ta30c-med.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/ta30c-med.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>I</td>
<td>5728K</td>
<td>0.0111 (extremely green)</td>
<td>66.2</td>
<td>-61.7</td>
<td>34.0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>II</td>
<td>6022K</td>
<td>0.0101 (extremely green)</td>
<td>66.1</td>
<td>-55.4</td>
<td>36.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>III</td>
<td>6351K</td>
<td>0.0039 (moderately green)</td>
<td>66.4</td>
<td>-43.0</td>
<td>40.4</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>DuV values greater than +/- 0.006 are not considered white light by ANSI. Both of the lower modes are outside this range.</p>
<p>There is fast PWM (flicker); it is not visible to the naked eye, but may cause scanlines in photos or video.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0021.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0021.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>I've started using camera settings for white wall beamshots that should be comparable to <a href="https://zeroair.org">Zeroair's</a>. They are: f/4, 1/13s, 200 ISO.</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ta30c/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0007.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ta30c/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0005.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ta30c/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0006.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Tint vs BLF 348</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0008.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0009.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Tint vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ta30c/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0011.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ta30c/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0010.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ta30c/0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0012.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The crenelations on the bezel cut into the beam significantly.</p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>A 2600 mAh 18650 battery with a USB-C port is included. 2600 mAh is very low capacity for an 18650 with most competitors offering 3500 mAh in lights with typical power requirements at higher price points.</p>
<p>Unprotected, flat-top 18650s do not make contact with the springs, but do work when a spacer is used. There is no low-voltage protection; the light will eventually turn off around 2.5V because the driver stops functioning correctly, but this may not completely stop battery drain. Over-discharging an unprotected 18650 damages it, and there is a risk of fire or explosion if it is charged again.</p>
<h2>Build</h2>
<p>The TA30C apears well-machined. Threads are square-cut and smooth. Anodizing looks nice, but did chip easily when I dropped the tailcap. All of the corners are very rounded, suggesting Nextorch put above-average effort into machining.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ta30c/0016.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0016.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Ergonomics are a strong point for the TA30C with one glaring exception. There's a matte finish that provides good grip, the rotary ring is easy to find and easy to turn. The tailswitch is proud and very easy to press under stress. The rounded surfaces make it more comfortable to pocket carry than the 30mm head diameter might suggest.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/0018.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0018.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ta30c/0019.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ta30c/0019.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The problem, of course is that any attempt to quickly access high will almost certainly result in strobe instead.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The bezel is easily unscrewed to access the reflector and LED, allowing for swaps. Unfortunately, what would benefit the TA30C most is a different driver, but the tail-mounted driver is not easily replaced.</p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights - Fall Equinox 2023 Edition2023-09-23T00:00:00+00:002023-09-23T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-09-23:/arbitrary-list-2023.2.htmlIn honor of Fall Equinox, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Days are getting shorter and nights are getting longer - it might be time for a new flashlight.
<div class="alist">
<h1>Happy Equinox!</h1>
<p>
In honor of Fall Equinox, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Days are getting shorter and nights are getting longer - it might be time for a new flashlight<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/e70/derivatives/full-width/20211109_0072.jpg">.</a>
</p>
<p>
There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. Please take note that prices and availability may change - feel free to leave a comment if you notice a mismatch. To search more lights by their attributes, try <a href="http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html">Parametrek Search</a>.
</p>
<p>
Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. Some lights in the list offer affiliate links marked with 💵 and <strong>(aff)</strong> which will result in the dealer paying me a small commission if you buy a light through the link. There is <strong>always</strong> a non-affiliate option if you don't want to be tracked. I also have two affiliate coupon codes that apply to some of the dealers:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://killzoneflashlights.com?ref=9">Killzone Flashligths</a> (aff): zakreviews</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam.com</a> (aff): ZW10</li>
</ul>
I also have a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">💵 tip jar 💵</a> at Ko-Fi. Nobody should feel obligated to use either, but it's certainly appreciated.
</p>
<h1>About specs</h1>
<p>
Lumens are total output. Don't worry about small differences in output. You probably can't detect a 10% difference in lumens with your eyes, and 20% is barely noticeable. It takes 4 times the lumens to look twice as bright. Candela is intensity, which translates to throw distance. FL1 throw numbers are about right for detecting large objects; cut them in half for seeing clearly. Extreme throw distances also run in to limits imposed by human vision and by backscatter in the atmosphere. Warmer tints have less backscatter.
</p>
<p>
FL1 runtime numbers are to 10% output and can be misleading. Look for a review with a runtime graph.
</p>
<p>
Performance specs for AA and AAA powered lights are usually given with NiMH rechargeable batteries. Alkalines don't perform as well, and may leak corrosive electrolyte.
</p>
<h2>Considerations</h2>
<p>
Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:
</p>
<ul>
<li> Neutral white tint - the vast majority of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"</li>
<li> A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges</li>
<li> A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off</li>
<li> A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes</li>
<li> An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer</li>
<li> A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway</li>
<li> Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is 99. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.</li>
<li> A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)</li>
<li> A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes</li>
<li> A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off. </li>
</ul>
<h1>The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>
All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the Catapult, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details.
</p>
<p>
This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos FC11 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $34 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A budget general-use light with USB-C charging. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like the Nichia 519A LED best, as it looks close to sunlight. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M150 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A smaller everyday carry light with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long. The Nichia 519A option is strongly recommended
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M200 v3 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $65 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A (recommended) or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam EC35 II 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $77 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld tactical light or duty light. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 RC 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $64 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A headlamp, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP36 (BLF) 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="description">
A large high-output light with three 18650 batteries It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is sometimes available for those who miss the look of incandescents.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn IF22A 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A long range light that can light up large objects 700m away and provide clear vision at half that. Rechargeable battery and USB-C charging included.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h3>
<p>
These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.
</p>
<h3>Small keychain lights</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore Tube 2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
$11
</div>
<div class="description">
A brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNXL5K8">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNXL5K8?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Rovyvon Aurora A1 USB-C (219C)
</div>
<div class="price">
$28
</div>
<div class="description">
Neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB-C charging, 16g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. Nichia 219C option recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/aurora-a1-4th-gen-metal-switch-usb-c-keychain-flashlight?variant=44150462284091">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt EK1
</div>
<div class="price">
$16
</div>
<div class="description">
Two mode twist-switch light with USB-C charging. There used to be many lights this size with removable 10180 batteries, but they have mostly disappeared in favor of non-removable. At least this one offers a larger battery and high CRI option.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/ek1-180-lumens-usb-c-edc-mini-tiny-keychain-rechargeable-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ek1">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ek1?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>AAA Battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt E3A
</div>
<div class="price">
$14
</div>
<div class="description">
A simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch and a high CRI option (recommended).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/e3a-aaa-100-lumens-pocket-edc-keychain-mini-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix E01 V2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
$13
</div>
<div class="description">
A basic twisty light that gives up the E3A's color quality for three modes instead of one.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlighting.com/products/fenix-e01-v2-aaa-flashlight">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore MT06MD
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219B as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X8YXT7">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X8YXT7?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>AA/14500 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP10 Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
$22
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $24 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A sophisticated AA/14500 sideswitch light running Toykeeper's excellent Anduril 2 firmware. By default, it's a simple ramping UI with mode memory, but a great deal of customization is available. 900lm max on a 14500, and a high-CRI Samsung LH351D is the only LED option. Available by itself, or with a battery and charger bundle. Priced higher at Amazon, but no waiting for shipping from China.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10pro-aa-flashlight-anduril-2-attiny1616-version-lh351d-led-90cri">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VNM4NKQ">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VNM4NKQ?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M150
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A favorite AA/14500 light now with the latest community-favorite LED: the high-CRI Nichia 519A in both neutral and warm. The M150 has a sideswitch with shortcuts, magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/m150-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt E2A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $22 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A basic light with an optional high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/e2a-14500-aa-600-lumens-pocket-edc-mini-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam Pokelit AA
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
AA/14500 with high CRI, three modes, a tailswitch, and USB-charging 14500 battery included. Just avoid the grey, low-CRI version.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-aa">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-aa?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC21
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $33 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. 4000K (afternoon sunlight) and 2700K (incandescent-like) are also offered.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC21 Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $32 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
The above with ToyKeeper's sophisticated Anduril firmware. Most people who are technically inclined will prefer the extra functionality, but those who are not may find it too complex.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite T1
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $40 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Eagletac DX3B Mk II
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight SC64c LE
</div>
<div class="price">
$74
</div>
<div class="description">
The SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. This will likely be replaced by the SC65c HI soon, but it's available as of this publication and even slightly discounted.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight SC65c HI
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
The successor to the Zebralight SC64 series has launched with the first ever stacked LED, which should increase intensity. It's, neutral white, high CRI and considerably more throwy than any version of SC64, but output is lower.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.zebralight.com/SC65c-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_254.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC32
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $41 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This is like a Wurkkos FC11 with a tail e-switch and TIR optic. It's not very efficient, but moderately-priced and optionally has nice tint and color rendering with the Nichia 519A option.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6T4WX3M">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6T4WX3M?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP31 v2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $36 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M200 v3
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $64 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A (recommended) or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos FC11
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $34 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's inexpensive. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWN42KF9?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix PD32 v2
</div>
<div class="price">
$60
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam EC35 II
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $77 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, and it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E70 Mini
</div>
<div class="price">
$70
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A triple-emitter high-CRI Niciha 519A light with a tail e-switch and USB-charging 18650 included. People who wanted a better-made FW3A should look at this, though the UI is different.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>
If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.
</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H150
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Despite a rough launch involving a recall, this is my favorite small headlamp. 14500 battery and magnetic charging, but also compatible with AA. Optional Nichia 519A LED with excellent color rendering and a choice of 4500K (afternoon sunlight) or 3000K (incandescent-like). Stable output as the battery drains, which is unusual in this class. Also works as a pocket light and magnetic work light.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/h150-aa-14500-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-headlamp/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h150">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h150?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Manker E02 II
</div>
<div class="price">
$23
</div>
<div class="description">
A 1xAAA/10440 right-angle light in which the neutral white option is high-CRI. This is a good choice for people who want a removable battery and light weight, as it's a mere 22g (without battery or headband).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://mankerlight.com/mankerlight-e02-ii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn HS10
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $22 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A small and inexpensive, but power-inefficient 1x16340 right-angle light with high CRI and USB-C charging. Amazon price is a bit higher.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 Mini RC
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore HA11
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="description">
Lightweight, single-AA, and very inexpensive. It doesn't compare favorably to all-metal headlamps with a higher price, but it sure is cheap and lightweight.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/ha11">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS7787XD">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS7787XD?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Manker E03H II
</div>
<div class="price">
$35
</div>
<div class="description">
1xAA/14500 right-angle light in which the neutral white option is high-CRI. An unusual feature of this light is sliding diffusers in frosted white, red, and green.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://mankerlight.com/mankerlight-e03h-ii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H53Fc N
</div>
<div class="price">
$69
</div>
<div class="description">
As we've come to expect from Zebralight, this is efficient, durable and has an ultra-low mode for dark adaptation and extreme runtime. It now uses the Nichia 519A LED for world-class tint and color quality.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.zebralight.com/H53Fc-N-Neutral-White-High-CRI-AA-Floody-Headlamp-_p_253.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore NU25 UL
</div>
<div class="price">
$37
</div>
<div class="description">
When weight counts above nearly all else, the 45g NU25 UL, which has a non-removable battery and USB-C charging could be the winner. I don't like recommending lights with non-removable batteries, but the ultralight crowd should like this one.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25ul">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-UL-Lightweight-Rechargeable/dp/B0BJ2GQ3PK">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-UL-Lightweight-Rechargeable/dp/B0BJ2GQ3PK?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 RC
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A solid all-around right-angle light with magnetic charging and my favorite headband on the market. The popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown and has a magnetic tailcap. These offer a high-CRI Nichia 519A, which is recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP40
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $33 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
High CRI (with LH351D), USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The -A model uses a TIR optic, but a lack of reviews has me holding off on recommending that yet. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBMGR7QC">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBMGR7QC?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H600Fd IV
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
A very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H600Fc IV
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
The H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $95 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "zakreviews" for a discount.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H300
</div>
<div class="price">
$70
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A similar design to the Wizard C2 Pro with a lower price and better headband. The moonlight mode isn't as low as the Wizard. Now that a high-CRI option is offered, I have reason to add it to the list.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Large</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam H30
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $120 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. Noncompliant USB-C behavior requires charging with an A-to-C cable.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos HD20
</div>
<div class="price">
$40
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix HP30R v2
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $220 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Heavy-Duty-Rechargeable-Floodlight-Detachable/dp/B09NP9RQMB">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Heavy-Duty-Rechargeable-Floodlight-Detachable/dp/B09NP9RQMB?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Duty lights</h2>
<p>
These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam L35
</div>
<div class="price">
$90
</div>
<div class="description">
Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Eagletac GX30L2-R
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $155 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam L18
</div>
<div class="price">
$85
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $105 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>
Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.
</p>
<h1>Flooders</h1>
<p>
Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite TC20 v2
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $60 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 208 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TC20-V2-Flashlight-Rechargeable/dp/B09RWSTKDM">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TC20-V2-Flashlight-Rechargeable/dp/B09RWSTKDM?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP36 BLF edition
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $67 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging, USB powerbank. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not always. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E70 FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt EC300
</div>
<div class="price">
$68
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $81 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A quad-emitter flooder with a 21700 battery and a choice of low or high CRI Luminus SST-20s and RGB secondary emitters. Lights fitting that description aren't rare lately, but this one has standards-compliant USB-C charging and a powerbank feature with output around 5V/3A. That makes it one of the most effective powerbank/flashlight combinations that might fit in a pants pocket.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $100 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A quad-emitter flooder with a 21700 battery, USB-C charging and an impressive ability to maintain high output with the excellent color quality of the optional Nichia 519A LEDs.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e75?variant=44015681994977">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e75?variant=44015681994977?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e75">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e75?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Throwers</h1>
What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.
FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn IF22A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Manker U22 III
</div>
<div class="price">
$74
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $84 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. This has a more efficient driver than the IF22A, so it should handle sustained operation better.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite Catapult Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A 26650 battery thrower with high output, 1km FL1 throw, and USB-C charging.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam K75
</div>
<div class="price">
$280
</div>
<div class="description">
2.5km and 6500lm, but large with 4x18650 batteries and a 13cm wide head.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k75">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k75?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Hybrids</h1>
<p>
Some throw, some flood... probably a lot
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy 4x18A SBT90
</div>
<div class="price">
$75
</div>
<div class="description">
budget light in this category with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002647258079.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam X75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $400 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
One of the highest output lights on the market at 80,000 lumens, a figure I believe to be more honest than the Imalent MS18's claimed 100,000. There's also a throwy version with 67,000 claimed lumens and throw increased to 1306m from 1150. Waterproof/submersible in spite of a cooling fan and USB-PD powerbank function (up to 20V 3A output, able to power many laptop computers). The battery pack is, unfortunately proprietary.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Pelican 3315 CC
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix WF30RE
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $100 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
The closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn BLF LT1
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $87 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy Z1 B35A
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
Zoomable flashlights usually aren't very good (bulky, heavy, poor waterproofing), but this is one of the best for those who must have that feature. The B35A version has a boost driver for efficiency and stable output, as well as excellent tint and color rendering. Other LED options are available with different traits, but few are currently in stock.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001237268675.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Enthusiast Lights</h1>
<p>
Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.
</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4v2
</div>
<div class="price">
$45
</div>
<div class="description">
Every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. There are many LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4500K, 90+ CRI Nichia 519A to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, different optics, and high-efficiency boost driver. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. Price increases with options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4v2 channel switching
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
The above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon KR4
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
This a tail-e-switch D4.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar DW4
</div>
<div class="price">
$50
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a D4, but the light comes out the side, making it suitable as a magnetic work light or headlamp.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-dw4-right-angle-1-18650-work-light.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4K
</div>
<div class="price">
$50
</div>
<div class="description">
D4 with a 21700 battery. It's exactly what you'd expect.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4k-1-21700-high-power-quad-edc-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy S3/B35AM
</div>
<div class="price">
$15
</div>
<div class="description">
The Convoy S-series has always been a popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer. It now offers a boost driver with better efficiency than provious models and two of Nichia's 6-volt LEDs. The B35A and 719A are both compelling, with the former having better color and the latter having more throw. 18650 battery.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805793953289.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos TS10
</div>
<div class="price">
$18
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $20 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A 14500 (not AA) light with a tail E-switch, Anduril 2, and three high-CRI CSP emitters for a floody 1400 lumens.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy S21E 719A
</div>
<div class="price">
$16
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who don't want to pay Zebralight $90 to try out Nichia's new stacked LED, how about $16? I think this is a record low price for a boost driver light with USB-C charging. 21700 battery not included.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805787589077.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D1K
</div>
<div class="price">
$29
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a jacket pocket 1x21700 light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. Several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. A boost driver option is now offered with a Cree XHP70.3 HI, high-CRI Getian FC40, Nichia B35A, or Nichia 719A. Price increases with options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/emisar-d1k-21700-mini-pocket-thrower.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon KR1
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a tailswitch, 18650 version of the D1K.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy C8 SST-20
</div>
<div class="price">
$19
</div>
<div class="description">
1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but this C8 is the one most people should get.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy M21C FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$32
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the crumpled reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy M3-C FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$35
</div>
<div class="description">
A 1x26650 light with USB-C charging and excellent color rendering in a wide range of color tempertures from 1800K to 5500K.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803900100503.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy L21B SFT40
</div>
<div class="price">
$32
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, 1258m throw, Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x this price? It wasn't long ago.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy L21B 719A
</div>
<div class="price">
$31
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, 775m throw, Remember when serious throwers had terrible color? Not anymore!
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805626068133.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon Meteor M44
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650 and 16 LEDs with two channels and an efficient driver with the usual large selection of customization optios we expect from Noctigon.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-m44-meteor-4-quad-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Pending</h1>
<p>
These lights are newly introduced or recently announced and expected to become popular, but aren't popular or even necessarily even available yet.
</p>
</div>
What's inside the recalled Skilhunt H1502023-08-02T00:00:00+00:002023-08-02T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-08-02:/h150-repair.html<p>A look inside the recalled Skilhunt H150</p><h1>The Skilhunt H150 is recalled due to a short circuit</h1>
<p>See my <a href="/h150-warning.html">previous post</a> on the subject for details. If you have an H150 ordered before August 2023, I recommend contacting the manufacturer to arrange a return and replacement with a corrected model. </p>
<p>As Skilhunt did not request the return of my review sample, I decided to take it apart and see what's inside, and maybe get something more out of it than a v3 clip for my M150 v2. I do not recommend attempting to repair a recalled headlamp; this post is for educational purposes only.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0012.jpg" /></a></p>
<h1>Disassembly</h1>
<p>Like most Skilhunt lights, the H150 has permanent threadlocker on the head side of the battery tube. A pair of strap wrenches made unscrewing the head to access the driver easy.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0011.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The bezels for the switch and optic unscrew easily.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0007.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0008.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The charging pad's bezel also unscrews, but it's potted and I didn't try to access its components.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0006.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The driver is fairly compact, and has nine wires connected; this light has a lot of functionality packed into a small head.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0003.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The reverse polarity protection pin is clearly attached to a large trace area that goes all the way to the ground ring. That's the short circuit.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>RPP is a good idea, but burning out a driver is a far better outcome than a dead short and risk of explosion in a headlamp. A bit of heat and a bit of superglue should make this a whole lot safer.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0009.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0010.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>This springy ring on the driver isn't for retention, which explains the use of threadlocker. It should be impossible for a battery contact to touch the pad where the RPP pin was attached. The cured superglue provides an extra safety margin.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0013.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>I probably shouldn't, but....</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0014.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-repair/0015.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-repair/0015.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Nothing melted, let the smoke out, or exploded. I'm still not going to put this in my pocket or on my head with an unprotected Li-ion in it.</p>Recall: Skilhunt H150 short circuit2023-08-01T00:00:00+00:002023-08-01T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-08-01:/h150-warning.html<p>If you have a Skilhunt H150, remove the battery and contact Skilhunt for return instructions</p><h1>The Skilhunt H150 has been recalled. If you have one, remove the battery and contact Skilhunt.</h1>
<p>Updated August 2, 2023. The original post remains below.</p>
<p>Skilhunt has recalled the H150 due to the short circuit issue described below. If you have an H150 or ordered one prior to August 2, email service@skilhunt.com for return instructions.</p>
<p>Skilhunt intends to correct and re-release the H150, so future readers who order an H150 after early August 2023 are not affected by this recall. Models other than the H150, such as the M150, E2A, H04, and H300 are not affected by this recall.</p>
<h1>If you have a Skilhunt H150, do not use flat-top cells</h1>
<p>Shortly after unpacking my Skilhunt H150 review sample, I tried using a flat-top Vapcell H10 in it, as I do with most 14500 lights. It worked at first, but stopped after I installed the light in the headband. When I removed the tailcap, I noticed the spring was discolored and deformed, and the cell was warmer than expected.</p>
<p>The driver has a metal nub, presumably for reverse-polarity protection, which can make contact with a flat-top cell. I measured a dead short between this nub and ground, meaning any contact with the positive terminal will short-circuit the battery. Short-circuiting a Li-ion battery can cause it to explode, and such an explosion inside a metal flashlight can produce shrapnel. This is, of course extremely dangerous, especially when the light is meant to be worn on one's head.</p>
<p>This also means that instead of protecting against harm from inserting a battery backward, a short circuit is guaranteed when a battery in inserted backwards.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-warning/tailcap.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-warning/tailcap.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h150-warning/driver.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h150-warning/driver.jpg" /></a></p>
<h1>The H150 should be recalled</h1>
<p>Another community member has confirmed the same issue on their H150, so this isn't just a defective unit. I do not recommend using the H150 at all, with any battery and believe Skilhunt should recall it.</p>
<p>I tested an M150 v2 and there is no continuity between RPP and ground, so that light is safe. I do not have an M150 v3; someone who does should test it.</p>
<p>For those who wish to continue using an H150 despite this risk, cells that have a button top and a protection circuit are the safest option. A button top cell is unlikely to contact the RPP nub, and a protection circuit should interrupt current in the event of a short circuit. NiMH AA batteries are less likely to explode than Li-ion, but can still generate a great deal of heat in the event of a short.</p>
<p>The charging contact on the light is also a mild hazard, as contact with conductive materials can cause sparks. Unlike the M200, I was able to ignite steel wool with it.</p>
<p>I haven't contacted Skilhunt for comment yet, as I believe this is a severe enough flaw to merit warning the community immediately.</p>News: Nitecore announces UHi high-intensity LEDs2023-07-24T00:00:00+00:002023-07-24T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-07-24:/nitecore-uhi.html<p>Nitecore has announced its first original LED using a round light emitting surface and promising high intensity.</p><h1>Nitecore announces its first original LED</h1>
<p>Flashlight manufacturers typically all draw from the same pool of commercially-available LEDs. On occasion, particularly daring manufacturers remove domes from LEDs for increased intensity and different tint. Even company trademarks like "C4 LED" are rebranding of LEDs any company can use. Nitecore has announced a bespoke design called the UHi. There appear to be two models, named UHi 20 and UHi 40.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi1.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi1.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Nitecore claims 876 lumens per square millimeter for its UHi 20 LED compared to 611 from a "conventional LED" that appears to be a Cree XP-L HI when tested in the same flashlight. Drive current is not stated, but at 3A the famously throwy Osram White Flat 1mm (CSLNM1.TG) makes about 750, suggesting the UHi 20 is indeed a capable of very focused hotspots. The light emitting area of the UHi 20 is more than twice as large, suggesting the potential for higher drive curent and output.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi2.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi2.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The UHi uses a round light emitting surface, which should produce higher intensity than square or rectangular surfaces in typical flashlight optics. This has been seen before; the Luminus SBT70 was popular in thrower flashlights about a decade ago, including the Nitecore TM36.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi3.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi3.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The last panel compares the UHi 40 to a "conventional LED" producing 580m throw in an unspecified flashlight. Nitecore's only flashlight advertising exactly that number is the SRT7i, which uses a Luminus SFT70 LED and advertises 3000 lumens. That flashlight has a 40mm bezel, and Nitecore's claimed 705m throw with the UHi 40 would be near the top for throw in that size. If it also makes 3000 lumens like the SFT70, it will be a substantial advance over competitors.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi4.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/nitecore-uhi/uhi4.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Disclaimer</h2>
<p>Nitecore asked me to post this in exchange for a review sample of a light using the new LED. The images are theirs, but the rest of the text is mine.</p>Review: Skilhunt M200 v3 - an excellent 18650 EDC light with magnetic charging2023-07-13T00:00:00+00:002023-07-13T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-07-13:/skilhunt-m200-v3.html<p>The Skilhunt M200 v3 is an 18650-powered everyday carry flashlight with USB-magnetic charging. It offers excellent color rendering with the Nichia 519A option and it's fairly slim for the battery size. It's an obvious competitor to the Olight Baton Pro, but uses standard batteries and offers much better color quality.</p><p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200v3/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>This <a href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2180708&u=4157787&m=132958&urllink=www%2Eskilhunt%2Ecom%2Fproduct%2Fm200%2Dv3%2D1400%2Dlumens%2D18650%2Dmagnetic%2Dusb%2Drechargeable%2Dled%2Dflashlight%2F&afftrack=">Skilhunt M200 v3</a> (affiliate link) was provided by Skilhunt for review.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Skilhunt M200 v3 is an 18650-powered everyday carry flashlight with USB-magnetic charging and a magnetic tailcap. It offers excellent color rendering with the Nichia 519A option and it's fairly slim for the battery size. It's an obvious competitor to the Olight Baton Pro, but uses standard batteries and offers much better color quality.</p>
<p>It's hard to overstate how much of an improvement the latest M200 is over v2. I gave that light a positive review and was happy to recommend it to other people who liked the magnetic charger, but v3 is a light I'm happy to carry and use myself. It's one of the only EDC lights that rarely makes me miss my <a href="https://zakreviews.com/sc64c-le.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> when I'm carrying it. The changes are subtle, but many. The pocket clip, LED options, reflector, switch, and power levels have all been improved. I'm seeing output well above advertised with the Nichia 519A and sunlight-like tint on medium to high levels, though lower levels are a bit green. Sustained output is very good for a light of this size with good color rendering.</p>
<p>My one serious complaint is that the charging pad can cause sparks when short-circuited. I was not able to ignite steel wool with it as I could with the Olight H2R and the current shuts off almost instantly. Still, live contacts on the outside of a flashlight are a safety concern in some situations and I'd like to see Skilhunt add a diode to the charging pad to eliminate the risk. This is enough of a flaw to keep me from giving the M200 v3 the five-star rating it has otherwise earned and to hesitate to recommend it to mechanics who could be around both metal shavings and fuel.</p>
<p>For everyone else, the M200 v3 is truly excellent and <strong>recommended</strong>.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200v3/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x18650, 2xCR123:, 2x16340, 2x18350</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Nichia 519A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>4372 K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>96</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max lumens</td>
<td>1204</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (meters)</td>
<td>158</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable lumens</td>
<td>595</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max lumens at 50% battery</td>
<td>1143</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>119 lm/W @ 165 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>4.9 (moderately floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>104.5 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>23.5 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>46 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>93 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-magnetic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$65</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Excellent color rendering</li>
<li>Neutral tint</li>
<li>Excellent pocket clip</li>
<li>High sustainable output relative to competitors</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Magnetic charging pad can make sparks when short-circuited</li>
<li>The lowest mode is not as low as I would prefer</li>
</ul>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200v3/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>A choice of three LEDs is offered: the low-CRI Cree XP-L2, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, and high-CRI Nichia 519A. There's a choice of grey or black body color. This is the 519A, grey version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>A charging cable, spare O-rings, and user manual are included. A battery is optional.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200v3/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<h3>Modes</h3>
<p>Measured output was substantially higher than advertised in all modes.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Candela</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>6.5</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>17</td>
<td>76</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>42</td>
<td>64</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>304</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>109</td>
<td>165</td>
<td>56</td>
<td>785</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H</td>
<td>244</td>
<td>363</td>
<td>84</td>
<td>1747</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>417</td>
<td>595</td>
<td>108</td>
<td>2937</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>900</td>
<td>1204</td>
<td>158</td>
<td>6204</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>User interface</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Medium group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Blinky group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Blinky</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle blinky modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle modes within current group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Toggle turbo/medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Momentary low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Unlock</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is also a mechanical lockout by slightly loosening the tailcap.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>I failed to measure current and am currently traveling. I will update later. Advertised standby current is 38μA, which would take years to drain the battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>162</td>
<td>449</td>
<td>449</td>
<td>449</td>
<td>111</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H</td>
<td>363</td>
<td>193</td>
<td>197</td>
<td>198</td>
<td>108</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>595</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>105</td>
<td>109</td>
<td>94</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>1204</td>
<td>1.76</td>
<td>2.94</td>
<td>106</td>
<td>94</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/m1.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/m1.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/h.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/h.png" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/t2.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/t2.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/t1.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/t1.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>4359K</td>
<td>0.0039 (moderately green)</td>
<td>96.2</td>
<td>94.4</td>
<td>73.9</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>4379K</td>
<td>0.0033 (moderately green)</td>
<td>96.3</td>
<td>94.9</td>
<td>74.0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>4340K</td>
<td>0.0032 (moderately green)</td>
<td>96.1</td>
<td>94.0</td>
<td>74.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>4372K</td>
<td>0.0028 (slightly green)</td>
<td>95.9</td>
<td>92.9</td>
<td>75.1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H</td>
<td>4429K</td>
<td>0.0023 (slightly green)</td>
<td>95.2</td>
<td>89.7</td>
<td>75.2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>4424K</td>
<td>0.0014 (neutral)</td>
<td>94.9</td>
<td>87.4</td>
<td>75.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>5447K</td>
<td>-0.0013 (neutral)</td>
<td>94.4</td>
<td>82.6</td>
<td>80.5</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is no PWM on any mode.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200v3/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/0006.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<h3>Max vs SC64c LE</h3>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/m200.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/m200.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/sc64.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/sc64.jpg" /></a></p>
<h3>Sustainable vs SC64c LE</h3>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/m200-1.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/m200-1.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200v3/sc64-1.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/sc64-1.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The M200 v3 uses a single 18650 Li-ion battery. Any 18650 of reasonable quality can be used, though vigorous shaking may cause unprotected flat-top cells to break contact momentarily and turn off the light. The battery can be charged internally with the included USB-A to magnetic pad cable. A full charge requires 90 minutes.</p>
<p>The light can operate while charging.</p>
<p>As a backup option, the M200 v3 can use two CR123A disposable lithium batteries, or two 16340 or 18350 Li-ion rechargeable batteries. These cannot be charged with the internal charger.</p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p>The M200 series has always been slim for an 18650 light. The basic design hasn't changed with v3, but the pocket clip is a major improvement. While the previous version had a poorly designed clip that was bezel-up only, v3 now has a reversible two-way clip with an excellent ramp for easy insertion into the thickest of pockets. It carries flush in the bezel-down position and in theory can be used as hat light, though most find 18650 lights too heavy for that.</p>
<p>The switch sits slightly recessed opposite the charging pad, and while the two can be difficult to distinguish by feel, squeezing them together reliably actuates the switch. The feel of the switch itself is firmer than previous models and has a more distinct click. It's a subtle change, but accidental activation is less likely than the old model, and the tactile feedback is pleasant.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200v3/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200v3/0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Emitter swaps are easy in all Skilhunt lights I've encountered, though the MCPCB is an odd size and rectangular shape.</p>Review: Wuben B2 - a budget-priced 21700 bike light2023-06-26T00:00:00+00:002023-06-26T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-06-26:/wuben-b2.html<p>The Wuben B2 is a well-priced, efficient bike light powered by a 21700 battery and equipped with USB-C charging. It has a lot of offer, but it won't be for everyone</p><h2>Source</h2>
<p>This <a href="https://www.flashlightbrand.com/wuben-b2-osram-p9-led-1300-lumens-usb-rechargeable-bike-light-p4104278.html">Wuben B2</a> was provided by <a href="https://flashlightbrand.com">Flashlightbrand.com</a> for review.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Wuben B2 is a 21700-powered bike light. Far too many bike lights on the market use non-removable batteries, making them disposable when the battery wears out and making spare batteries impossible. The B2's use of a 21700 is enough by itself to stand out in the field. Its mount accommodates a variety of handlebars, and its efficient driver provides stable output in lower modes for a long time. The mount is reasonably secure, but it's important to press the light in firmly until it clicks, or it may fall, evidence of which is visible in some of the photos.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/0002.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The B2 also differs from most bike lights in that it has a round beam. There are no hard cutoffs or other beam shaping to illuminate the road or trail while avoiding glare for other road users. That makes the B2 illegal for road use in some countries, such as Germany, and requires aiming the light carefully to be safe and courteous to others. Higher modes provide good visibility where color isn't important, but they throttle quickly regardless of wind or fan cooling.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/9.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/9.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>For people on a budget who can accept a round beam, the Wuben B2 is <strong>conditionally recommended</strong>.</p>
<p><<a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/0004.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x21700, 1x18650</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Osram P9</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>6589K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>71</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>1195 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>244m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>566 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>1187 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>167 lm/W @ 365 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>12.5 (balanced)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>121 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>36 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>139 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>213 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>2.7V</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from USB without battery</td>
<td>Up to 470 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>None</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$54 (21700 battery), $39 (18650 battery)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★☆☆ (conditionally recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Good efficiency in all modes</li>
<li>No PWM flicker</li>
<li>Output is stable after throttling</li>
<li>One of a small number of bike lights with removable Li-ion batteries</li>
<li>Competitively-priced</li>
<li>Can run from USB</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Round beam; bike lights should be shaped</li>
<li>Cool white, low CRI</li>
<li>Excessive throttling; sustainable output should be higher</li>
<li>Plastic TIR optic without a glass cover can scratch easily</li>
<li>No lockout</li>
<li>Confusing user interface</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The B2 comes in black, grey, and blue, and offers a choice of bundled 18650 or 21700 battery.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The B2 includes a bike mount, several rubber pads, a battery, an 18650 spacer, a USB-A to C cable, user manual, and spare O-rings. A taillight with a non-removable battery and MicroUSB charging was included in a box marked "Gift" suggesting it may not always be included with this model.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/7.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/7.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/8.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/8.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<h3>Modes</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>185</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>400</td>
<td>365</td>
<td>91</td>
<td>134</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1000</td>
<td>932</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>214</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1300</td>
<td>1195</td>
<td>92</td>
<td>244</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Output is within 10% of claimed, and I'd consider that the margin of error of my test setup. Claimed throw is 280m, and what I'm seeing is a bit short of that.</p>
<h3>User interface</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>On (last-used)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Blinking</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (l-m-h)</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Cycle modes l-m-h</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (l-m-h)</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Blinking</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Blinking</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>l/m/h</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (any)</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
<th>Current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>11 years</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>0.05</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>185</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17 hours</td>
<td>159</td>
<td>283</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>365</td>
<td>273</td>
<td>548</td>
<td>573</td>
<td>167</td>
<td>568</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>932</td>
<td>3.04</td>
<td>3.13</td>
<td>411</td>
<td>162</td>
<td>1870</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1195</td>
<td>1.06</td>
<td>1.17</td>
<td>283</td>
<td>153</td>
<td>2800</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/med.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/med.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/high.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/high.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/turbo.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/turbo.png" /></a></p>
<p>I was surprised that this light steps down so much and so soon given that it has more thermal mass than a typical EDC light and is air cooled during typical use. Perhaps it's meant to extend battery life, but if I want more runtime I'd rather select a lower mode myself.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>6423K</td>
<td>0.0046 (moderately green)</td>
<td>69.5</td>
<td>-41.6</td>
<td>45.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Med</td>
<td>6589K</td>
<td>0.0038 (moderately green)</td>
<td>69.5</td>
<td>-39.9</td>
<td>46.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>6918K</td>
<td>0.0020 (slightly green)</td>
<td>70.8</td>
<td>-32.7</td>
<td>48.0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>6862K</td>
<td>0.0020 (slightly green)</td>
<td>70.8</td>
<td>-32.9</td>
<td>48.0</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>This is a very average spectrum for an LED light and I expect cyclists coming from other lights to have no complaints. Flashlight enthusiasts, however might hope for better color rendering and tint closer to sunlight. This isn't merely an aesthetic preference; bike lanes marked by red bricks, the distinction between mud and dirt, and of course distinguishing a stick on a trail from a snake are all aided by better color rendering.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Max, sustainable, and a cheap bike light with a shaped beam and SST-20 swap</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/b2-max.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/b2-max.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/b2-stable.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/b2-stable.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/bikelight.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/bikelight.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>B2 vs the cheap bike light to show beam shaping</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/0005.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/0006.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The B2 is designed for a protected 21700 battery. It works well with a protected 18650 battery in the included adapter, but rattles severely without the adapter. Unprotected 21700s work, but rattle a bit and can cause flickering on very bumpy rides. An unprotected 18650 isn't long enough to make contact using the included adapter, but can be used with third-party spacers.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/11.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/11.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The 21700 battery charges in about 5 hours from any USB-C power supply, and the light operates without a battery from USB power up to 470 lm.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The retaining ring is easily unscrewed, giving access to the 29mm diameter TIR and LED. If a suitable elliptical optic could be found, that would be an improvement for this light. An LED with better color quality might also help, but it would likely reduce output, and the B2 does not need a reduction in its sustainable output.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wuben-b2/12.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wuben-b2/12.jpg" /></a></p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights - Summer Solstice 2023 Edition2023-06-21T00:00:00+00:002023-06-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-06-21:/arbitrary-list-2023.1.htmlIn honor of Summer Solstice, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're least likely to need a flashlight in the Nothern hemisphere, but it only increases from here.
<div class="alist">
<h1>Happy solstice!</h1>
<p>
In honor of Summer Solstice, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're least likely to need a flashlight in the Nothern hemisphere, but it only increases from here<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/e70/derivatives/full-width/20211109_0072.jpg">.</a>
</p>
<p>
There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. Please take note that prices and availability may change - feel free to leave a comment if you notice a mismatch. To search more lights by their attributes, try <a href="http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html">Parametrek Search</a>.
</p>
<p>
Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. Some lights in the list offer affiliate links marked with 💵 and <strong>(aff)</strong> which will result in the dealer paying me a small commission if you buy a light through the link. There is <strong>always</strong> a non-affiliate option if you don't want to be tracked. I also have two affiliate coupon codes that apply to some of the dealers:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://killzoneflashlights.com?ref=9">Killzone Flashligths</a> (aff): zakreviews</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam.com</a> (aff): ZW10</li>
</ul>
I also have a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">💵 tip jar 💵</a> at Ko-Fi. Nobody should feel obligated to use either, but it's certainly appreciated.
</p>
<h1>About specs</h1>
<p>
Lumens are total output. Don't worry about small differences in output. You probably can't detect a 10% difference in lumens with your eyes, and 20% is barely noticeable. It takes 4 times the lumens to look twice as bright. Candela is intensity, which translates to throw distance. FL1 throw numbers are about right for detecting large objects; cut them in half for seeing clearly. Extreme throw distances also run in to limits imposed by human vision and by backscatter in the atmosphere. Warmer tints have less backscatter.
</p>
<p>
FL1 runtime numbers are to 10% output and can be misleading. Look for a review with a runtime graph.
</p>
<p>
Performance specs for AA and AAA powered lights are usually given with NiMH rechargeable batteries. Alkalines don't perform as well, and may leak corrosive electrolyte.
</p>
<h2>Considerations</h2>
<p>
Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:
</p>
<ul>
<li> Neutral white tint - the vast majority of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"</li>
<li> A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges</li>
<li> A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off</li>
<li> A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes</li>
<li> An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer</li>
<li> A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway</li>
<li> Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is 99. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.</li>
<li> A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)</li>
<li> A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes</li>
<li> A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off. </li>
</ul>
<h1>The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>
All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the Catapult, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details.
</p>
<p>
This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos FC11 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $27 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A budget general-use light with USB-C charging. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like the Nichia 519A LED best, as it looks close to sunlight. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M150 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A smaller everyday carry light with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long. The Nichia 519A option is strongly recommended
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M200 v3 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $64 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A (recommended) or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam EC35 II 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $77 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld tactical light or duty light. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 RC 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $64 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A headlamp, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP36 (BLF) 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="description">
A large high-output light with three 18650 batteries It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is sometimes available for those who miss the look of incandescents.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn IF22A 🔦
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A long range light that can light up large objects 700m away and provide clear vision at half that. Rechargeable battery and USB-C charging included.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h3>
<p>
These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.
</p>
<h3>Small keychain lights</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore Tube 2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
$11
</div>
<div class="description">
A brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNXL5K8">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNXL5K8?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Rovyvon Aurora A1 USB-C (219C)
</div>
<div class="price">
$28
</div>
<div class="description">
Neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB-C charging, 16g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. Nichia 219C option recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/aurora-a1-4th-gen-metal-switch-usb-c-keychain-flashlight?variant=44150462284091">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt EK1
</div>
<div class="price">
$19
</div>
<div class="description">
Two mode twist-switch light with USB-C charging. There used to be many lights this size with removable 10180 batteries, but they have mostly disappeared in favor of non-removable. At least this one offers a larger battery and high CRI option.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/ek1-180-lumens-usb-c-edc-mini-tiny-keychain-rechargeable-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ek1">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ek1?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>AAA Battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt E3A
</div>
<div class="price">
$14
</div>
<div class="description">
A simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch and a high CRI option (recommended).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/e3a-aaa-100-lumens-pocket-edc-keychain-mini-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix E01 V2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
$13
</div>
<div class="description">
A basic twisty light that gives up the E3A's color quality for three modes instead of one.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlighting.com/products/fenix-e01-v2-aaa-flashlight">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore MT06MD
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219B as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X8YXT7">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074X8YXT7?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>AA/14500 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP10 Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
$22
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $24 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A sophisticated AA/14500 sideswitch light running Toykeeper's excellent Anduril 2 firmware. By default, it's a simple ramping UI with mode memory, but a great deal of customization is available. 900lm max on a 14500, and a high-CRI Samsung LH351D is the only LED option. Available by itself, or with a battery and charger bundle. Priced higher at Amazon, but no waiting for shipping from China.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10pro-aa-flashlight-anduril-2-attiny1616-version-lh351d-led-90cri">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VNM4NKQ">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VNM4NKQ?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M150
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A favorite AA/14500 light now with the latest community-favorite LED: the high-CRI Nichia 519A. The M150 has a sideswitch with shortcuts, magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/m150-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt E2A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $26 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A basic light with an optional high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/e2a-14500-aa-600-lumens-pocket-edc-mini-led-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam Pokelit AA
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
AA/14500 with high CRI, three modes, a tailswitch, and USB-charging 14500 battery included. Just avoid the grey, low-CRI version.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-aa">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-aa?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC21
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $35 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. 4000K (afternoon sunlight) and 2700K (incandescent-like) are also offered.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SC21 Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $36 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
The above with ToyKeeper's sophisticated Anduril firmware. Most people who are technically inclined will prefer the extra functionality, but those who are not may find it too complex.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite T1
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $40 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Eagletac DX3B Mk II
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight SC64c LE
</div>
<div class="price">
$74
</div>
<div class="description">
The SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. This will likely be replaced by the SC65c HI soon, but it's available as of this publication and even slightly discounted.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP31 v2.0
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $36 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt M200 v3
</div>
<div class="price">
$54
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $64 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A (recommended) or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos FC11
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $27 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's inexpensive. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix PD32 v2
</div>
<div class="price">
$60
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam EC35 II
</div>
<div class="price">
$67
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $77 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, and it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E70 Mini
</div>
<div class="price">
$70
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A triple-emitter high-CRI Niciha 519A light with a tail e-switch and USB-charging 18650 included. People who wanted a better-made FW3A should look at this, though the UI is different.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>
If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.
</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Manker E02 II
</div>
<div class="price">
$23
</div>
<div class="description">
A 1xAAA/10440 right-angle light in which the neutral white option is high-CRI. This is a good choice for people who want a removable battery and light weight, as it's a mere 22g (without battery or headband).
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://mankerlight.com/mankerlight-e02-ii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn HS10
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $22 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A small and inexpensive, but power-inefficient 1x16340 right-angle light with high CRI and USB-C charging. Amazon price is a bit higher.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 Mini RC
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore HA11
</div>
<div class="price">
$20
</div>
<div class="description">
Lightweight, single-AA, and very inexpensive. It doesn't compare favorably to all-metal headlamps with a higher price, but it sure is cheap and lightweight.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/ha11">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS7787XD">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS7787XD?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Manker E03H II
</div>
<div class="price">
$35
</div>
<div class="description">
1xAA/14500 right-angle light in which the neutral white option is high-CRI. An unusual feature of this light is sliding diffusers in frosted white, red, and green.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://mankerlight.com/mankerlight-e03h-ii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H53Fc N
</div>
<div class="price">
$69
</div>
<div class="description">
As we've come to expect from Zebralight, this is efficient, durable and has an ultra-low mode for dark adaptation and extreme runtime. It now uses the Nichia 519A LED for world-class tint and color quality.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.zebralight.com/H53Fc-N-Neutral-White-High-CRI-AA-Floody-Headlamp-_p_253.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Nitecore NU25 UL
</div>
<div class="price">
$37
</div>
<div class="description">
When weight counts above nearly all else, the 45g NU25 UL, which has a non-removable battery and USB-C charging could be the winner. I don't like recommending lights with non-removable batteries, but the ultralight crowd should like this one.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25ul">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-UL-Lightweight-Rechargeable/dp/B0BJ2GQ3PK">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-UL-Lightweight-Rechargeable/dp/B0BJ2GQ3PK?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H04 RC
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $54 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A solid all-around right-angle light with magnetic charging and my favorite headband on the market. The popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown and has a magnetic tailcap. These offer a high-CRI Nichia 519A, which is recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP40
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $33 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
High CRI (with LH351D), USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The -A model uses a TIR optic, but a lack of reviews has me holding off on recommending that yet. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBMGR7QC">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBMGR7QC?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H600Fd IV
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
A very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight H600Fc IV
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
The H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "zakreviews" for a discount.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H300
</div>
<div class="price">
$70
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $80 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A similar design to the Wizard C2 Pro with a lower price and better headband. Now that a high-CRI option is offered, I have reason to add it to the list.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Large</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam H30
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $120 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. Noncompliant USB-C behavior requires charging with an A-to-C cable.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos HD20
</div>
<div class="price">
$40
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix HP30R v2
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $220 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Product page</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Heavy-Duty-Rechargeable-Floodlight-Detachable/dp/B09NP9RQMB">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Heavy-Duty-Rechargeable-Floodlight-Detachable/dp/B09NP9RQMB?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Duty lights</h2>
<p>
These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam L35
</div>
<div class="price">
$90
</div>
<div class="description">
Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Eagletac GX30L2-R
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $155 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
For those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam L18
</div>
<div class="price">
$85
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $105 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
This is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>
Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.
</p>
<h1>Flooders</h1>
<p>
Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite TC20 v2
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $60 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 208 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TC20-V2-Flashlight-Rechargeable/dp/B09RWSTKDM">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TC20-V2-Flashlight-Rechargeable/dp/B09RWSTKDM?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn SP36 BLF edition
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $67 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging, USB powerbank. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not always. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4S427Q?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam E70 FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al">Buy from Acebeam</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al?affiliate=zakreviews-2">💵 Buy from Acebeam</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt EC300
</div>
<div class="price">
$68
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $81 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A quad-emitter flooder with a 21700 battery and a choice of low or high CRI Luminus SST-20s and RGB secondary emitters. Lights fitting that description aren't rare lately, but this one has standards-compliant USB-C charging and a powerbank feature with output around 5V/3A. That makes it one of the most effective powerbank/flashlight combinations that might fit in a pants pocket.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Throwers</h1>
What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.
FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn IF22A
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $49 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Manker U22 III
</div>
<div class="price">
$74
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $84 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. This has a more efficient driver than the IF22A, so it should handle sustained operation better.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Thrunite Catapult Pro
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $90 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A 26650 battery thrower with high output, 1km FL1 throw, and USB-C charging.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam K75
</div>
<div class="price">
$280
</div>
<div class="description">
2.5km and 6500lm, but large with 4x18650 batteries and a 13cm wide head.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k75">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k75?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Hybrids</h1>
<p>
Some throw, some flood... probably a lot
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy 4x18A SBT90
</div>
<div class="price">
$75
</div>
<div class="description">
budget light in this category with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002647258079.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Acebeam X75
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $400 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
One of the highest output lights on the market at 80,000 lumens, a figure I believe to be more honest than the Imalent MS18's claimed 100,000. There's also a throwy version with 67,000 claimed lumens and throw increased to 1306m from 1150. Waterproof/submersible in spite of a cooling fan and USB-PD powerbank function (up to 20V 3A output, able to power many laptop computers). The battery pack is, unfortunately proprietary.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75">Buy from Killzone</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75?ref=9">💵 Buy from Killzone</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Pelican 3315 CC
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Fenix WF30RE
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $100 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
The closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Sofirn BLF LT1
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $87 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy Z1 B35A
</div>
<div class="price">
$30
</div>
<div class="description">
Zoomable flashlights usually aren't very good (bulky, heavy, poor waterproofing), but this is one of the best for those who must have that feature. The B35A version has a boost driver for efficiency and stable output, as well as excellent tint and color rendering. Other LED options are available with different traits, but few are currently in stock.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001237268675.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Enthusiast Lights</h1>
<p>
Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.
</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4v2
</div>
<div class="price">
$45
</div>
<div class="description">
Every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. There are many LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4500K, 90+ CRI Nichia 519A to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, different optics, and high-efficiency boost driver. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. Price increases with options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4v2 channel switching
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
The above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon KR4
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
This a tail-e-switch D4.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar DW4
</div>
<div class="price">
$50
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a D4, but the light comes out the side, making it suitable as a magnetic work light or headlamp.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-dw4-right-angle-1-18650-work-light.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D4K
</div>
<div class="price">
$50
</div>
<div class="description">
D4 with a 21700 battery. It's exactly what you'd expect.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4k-1-21700-high-power-quad-edc-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy S2+/519A
</div>
<div class="price">
$15
</div>
<div class="description">
Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and [Mountain Electronics](http://mtnelectronics.com). The new Nichia 519A will probably satisfy the most people with fairly high output, a balanced beam profile, and color rendering that's amazingly close to sunlight even compared to other high-CRI LEDs. Other popular options include the throwy Luminus SST-20 and rosy-tinted Nichia 219B. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003914620098.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Wurkkos TS10
</div>
<div class="price">
$18
</div>
<div class="price">
🔋 $20 (with battery)
</div>
<div class="description">
A 14500 (not AA) light with a tail E-switch, Anduril 2, and three high-CRI CSP emitters for a floody 1400 lumens.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83">Buy from Amazon</a>
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83?tag=zakwilson_01-20">💵 Buy from Amazon</a> (aff)
</div>
</div>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D1
</div>
<div class="price">
$29
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a jacket pocket 1x18650 light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. Several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. A boost driver option is now offered with a Cree XHP70.3 HI, high-CRI Getian FC40, or Nichia B35A. Price increases with options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/new-emisar-d1-mini-pocket-thrower.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon KR1
</div>
<div class="price">
$55
</div>
<div class="description">
This is a tailswitch version of the D1.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy C8 SST-20
</div>
<div class="price">
$19
</div>
<div class="description">
1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but this C8 is the one most people should get.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy M21C FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$32
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the crumpled reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Emisar D18
</div>
<div class="price">
$88
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650, 18xSST-20 (219B optional). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy M3-C FC40
</div>
<div class="price">
$35
</div>
<div class="description">
A 1x26650 light with USB-C charging and excellent color rendering in a wide range of color tempertures from 1800K to 5500K.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803900100503.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Convoy L21B SFT40
</div>
<div class="price">
$32
</div>
<div class="description">
1x21700, 1258m throw, Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x this price? It wasn't long ago.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<h1>Pending</h1>
<p>
These lights are newly introduced or recently announced and expected to become popular, but aren't popular or even necessarily even available yet.
</p>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Zebralight SC65c HI
</div>
<div class="price">
$89
</div>
<div class="description">
The successor to the Zebralight SC64 series is launching with the first ever stacked LED, which should increase intensity. It's also neutral white and high CRI.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://www.zebralight.com/SC65c-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_254.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Noctigon Meteor M44
</div>
<div class="price">
$109
</div>
<div class="description">
3x18650 and 16 LEDs with two channels an efficient driver, at least that's the promise. As we've come to expect with Noctigon, it has Anduril firmware and a big selection of LED options.
</div>
<div class="link">
<a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-m44-meteor-4-quad-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Product page</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="light">
<div class="name">
Skilhunt H150
</div>
<div class="description">
It's a right-angle M150. It's going to be awesome.
</div>
</div>
</div>
Review: Acebeam Pokelit 2AA - an almost-penlight with high output and great color quality2023-06-20T00:00:00+00:002023-06-20T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-06-20:/pokelit-2aa.html<p>The Acebeam Pokelit 2AA is a simple long, skinny two-mode tailswitch light with excellent color quality and the ability to use an unusual 141000 Li-ion rechargeable battery or two AAs.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.acebeam.com/pokelit-2aa">Acebeam Pokelite 2AA</a> was provided by Acebeam for review.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Acebeam Pokelit 2AA is a simple long, skinny two-mode tailswitch light with excellent color quality and the ability to use an unusual 141000 Li-ion rechargeable battery or two AAs. Few lights with this much battery capacity are this thin, and it's rare that they have USB-charging batteries. For those who want both, Acebeam has the only option.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The main thing I find myself missing is a third mode, other than waiting for high to thermal-throttle to about 50%. When running on AA, the throttling seems unnecessary, or it would be if there was a medium mode the user could select to extend battery life. For those who like the form factor and think two modes is just fine, the Pokelit 2AA is <strong>conditionally recommended</strong>.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x141000, 2xAA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Nichia 519A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>5155K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>94</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output (Li)</td>
<td>818lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output (AA)</td>
<td>387lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (Li)</td>
<td>85m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (AA)</td>
<td>58m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output (Li)</td>
<td>357lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output (AA)</td>
<td>113lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>562lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>132 lm/W (high, AA)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>2.2 (floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>144mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>18.2mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>42g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>86g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C (compliant) on battery</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$40</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★☆☆ (conditionally recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Excellent color rendering</li>
<li>Good efficiency</li>
<li>Thin</li>
<li>Solidly built</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>141000 battery is rare and doesn't fit in chargers</li>
<li>No lockout</li>
<li>Three modes would be better</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The Pokelit 2AA comes in green or black. This is the green version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>A battery, pocket clip, USB cable, spare O-rings, and user manual are included.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The Pokelite 2AA has two modes: low and high, with a forward clicky tailswitch. That means half-pressing the switch turns the light on momentarily, and a full press locks it on. Quickly turning the light off and on switches modes. There is no mechanical lockout.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throttled</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>113</td>
<td>113</td>
<td>44</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>387</td>
<td>129</td>
<td>58</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>141000 battery</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>114</td>
<td>51</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throttled</td>
<td>360</td>
<td>475</td>
<td>132</td>
<td>78</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>600</td>
<td>817</td>
<td>136</td>
<td>85</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Runtime</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
<th>Current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low AA</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>271 hours</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High AA</td>
<td>387</td>
<td>0.87</td>
<td>2.19</td>
<td>288</td>
<td>132</td>
<td>1260</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low 141000</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>22 hours</td>
<td>94</td>
<td>73</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High 141000</td>
<td>817</td>
<td>1.1</td>
<td>26</td>
<td>111</td>
<td>112</td>
<td>2250</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<p>AA battery</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>5022K</td>
<td>0.0034 (moderately green)</td>
<td>96.9</td>
<td>97.0</td>
<td>75.6</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throttled</td>
<td>5158K</td>
<td>0.0029 (slightly green)</td>
<td>93.9</td>
<td>84.8</td>
<td>78.3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>5148K</td>
<td>0.0030 (moderately green)</td>
<td>93.4</td>
<td>83.3</td>
<td>78.2</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>141000 battery</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>5039K</td>
<td>0.0042 (moderately green)</td>
<td>94.3</td>
<td>87.4</td>
<td>77.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throttled</td>
<td>5115K</td>
<td>0.0019 (slightly green)</td>
<td>93.7</td>
<td>83.1</td>
<td>79.2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>5190K</td>
<td>0.0021 (slightly green)</td>
<td>93.2</td>
<td>81.7</td>
<td>78.7</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is no PWM flicker, but all modes have a high-frequency ripple. It is not visible to the eye, but could affect cameras in some circumstances.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0008.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Max output vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-li-max.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-li-max.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/sc64c-max.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/sc64c-max.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Stable output vs SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-li-stable.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-li-stable.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/sc64c-stable.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/sc64c-stable.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>AA batteries max vs stable</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-aa-max.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-aa-max.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-aa-stable.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/pokelit-aa-stable.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>White wall vs SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0006.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>A 141000 Li-ion battery is included. This is an unusual size, but not entirely unique to Acebeam; Nitecore has offered a similar battery in the past. It is likely both are made from two 14500 cells wired internally in parallel.</p>
<p>The included battery has a USB-C port for charging. It seems to be standards-compliant and can charge from all USB power supplies and cables. It cannot, however fit into any slot charger I've ever seen. Charging from USB takes about 4 hours.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/pokelit-2aa/0009.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Two The Pokelit 2AA can, as the name suggests also use two AA batteries. It is not rated for 14500 batteries and would presumably be damaged by their use.</p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p>This is a noticeably slim flashlight with a maximum diameter of 18.2mm in contrast to the classic Mini Maglite with a 25mm bezel. I think it would qualify as a pen light for many people while having substantially better performance than anything powered by two AAA batteries. The body is ribbed, providing good grip, and the switch is very proud.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>A quick attempt to unscrew the pill with tweezers was not successful.</p>Review: Skilhunt EC300 - a high-CRI 21700 flooder with USB-C powerbank and colored secondary LEDs2023-05-10T00:00:00+00:002023-05-10T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2023-05-10:/skilhunt-ec300.html<p>Few flashlights are also good USB powerbanks. Even fewer good USB powerbanks are also good flashlights. This floody, somewhat pocketable model manages both, with a side of mulitcolored aux LEDs.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/ec300-2600-lumens-rgbw-multi-color-21700-rechargeable-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt EC300</a> was provided by Skilhunt for review.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>Devices that try to perform multiple functions often do all of them poorly. With the EC300, Skilhunt has produced an excellent white flashlight that's also a good USB powerbank and a serviceable multicolor flashlight. Output is sufficient for most use cases, though the thermal throttling is a bit aggressive for my tastes. Color rendering is excellent, and the tint is a close match to afternoon sunlight. Its powerbank function is capable of powering USB devices at nearly 15W and is compatible with all standard USB-C power supplies and cables, though it does not take advantages of any of the higher power standards like QC or PD.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-01.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>I find 21700 lights too large and heavy for casual pocket carry, but this is one of the smaller options on the market and it can be carried in average pants pockets if necessary. The extra capacity over an 18650 can make the difference between only needing to carry a single device and bringing a separate powerbank. The EC300 is waterproof with an IPX8 rating, however the USB cover comes open easily, and I would recommend caution in extremely wet environments.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-02.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-02.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>What the EC300 doesn't have is a sub-lumen moonlight mode or output adjustment for the colored modes. The red mode in particular is quite bright at 40 lumens. A 0.3 lumen low white is advertised, but it looks and tests higher. While it's suitable for situations where some authority mandates the use of red light, lower output would be better for actually preserving dark adaptatation. </p>
<p>Overall, the EC300 is a versatile flashlight and powerbank, and it is <strong>recommended</strong>.</p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x21700</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Luminus SST-20 x4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>4332K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>1855 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>142 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>652 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>1424 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>123 lm/W</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>2.5 (floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>115 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>29.5 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>81 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>153 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Environment</td>
<td>IPX8 (submersible)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from USB without battery</td>
<td>Low/colored modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Electronic and mechanical</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$68 (without battery), $81 (with battery)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI (optional)</li>
<li>Pleasant tint</li>
<li>Fast + broadly compatible USB-C charging</li>
<li>Powerbank function with nearly 3A output</li>
<li>Compact for a 21700 light</li>
<li>Good battery compatibility</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Low modes could stand to be lower for dark adaptation</li>
<li>Timed stepdown level of 652 lm is lower than I'd like</li>
<li>USB flap comes open easily</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The EC300 offers a choice of low-CRI cool white and high-CRI neutral white, both using Luminus SST-20 LEDs. It can be ordered with or without a 5000 mAh protected 21700 battery, and only comes in grey anodized aluminum at this time.</p>
<p>This is the high-CRI neutral white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The EC300 includes a pocket clip, lanyard, carrying pouch, USB A-C cable, spare O-rings, and user manual. A 5000 mAh protected 21700 battery is optional.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-15.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-15.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<h3>Modes</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Candela</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>0.3</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>26</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>17</td>
<td>75</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>98</td>
<td>135</td>
<td>36</td>
<td>329</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H</td>
<td>274</td>
<td>384</td>
<td>62</td>
<td>960</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>750</td>
<td>1028</td>
<td>101</td>
<td>2550</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>1500</td>
<td>1855</td>
<td>142</td>
<td>5007</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>40</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Green</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Blue</td>
<td>7.5</td>
<td>61</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The following blinking modes are also available:</p>
<ul>
<li>Strobe</li>
<li>SOS</li>
<li>Red beacon</li>
<li>RGB strobe</li>
</ul>
<h3>User Interface</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Medium group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Low/color group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>High group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium group</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>High group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High group</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Medium group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low group</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Toggle white/color</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (except strobe)</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle modes within current group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle blinking modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Low group</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Every group memorizes the last-used mode from that group. The powerbank feature is available in lockout mode; slightly loosening the tailcap locks out the light mechanically, disabling the powerbank feature and all standby power consumption.</p>
<p>While there's a lot of functionality on a single button, I don't find the UI particularly difficult to remember. Perhaps it's not the best fit for someone who believes they'll need quick access to RGB strobe in an emergency, but the average person will find a useful medium mode with no instruction at all.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-14.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-14.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
<th>Current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>14 years</td>
<td>0.04</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>1</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>30 days</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>7</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>11 days</td>
<td>90</td>
<td>19</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>30</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>3 days</td>
<td>114</td>
<td>64</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>135</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>17 hours</td>
<td>110</td>
<td>299</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H</td>
<td>384</td>
<td>304</td>
<td>350</td>
<td>354</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>767</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>1028</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>203</td>
<td>262</td>
<td>121</td>
<td>2480</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>1855</td>
<td>1.3</td>
<td>1.8</td>
<td>219</td>
<td>123</td>
<td>6330</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>R</td>
<td>40</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>14 hours</td>
<td>40</td>
<td>362</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>G</td>
<td>30</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>14 hours</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>359</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>B</td>
<td>61</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>14 hours</td>
<td>42</td>
<td>357</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-h.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-h.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-t2.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-t2.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-t1.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-t1.png" /></a></p>
<p>I suggest taking the numbers for the colored modes with a grain of salt, but the red and blue do look both brighter than advertised and at least as bright as the green to my eyes. My output estimates exceed what's advertised in every mode; that's good thing in higher modes, but not in low.</p>
<p>Efficiency is a bit below what I've come to expect from Skilhunt. While high-CRI SST-20s have never been the most efficient emitters, four of them should have higher efficiency than one LH351D, for example.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>4681K</td>
<td>0.00175 (slightly green)</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>71</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>4169K</td>
<td>0.00126 (neutral)</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>75</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>4186K</td>
<td>0.00125 (neutral)</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>75</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>4125K</td>
<td>0.00157 (slightly green)</td>
<td>97</td>
<td>98</td>
<td>76</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H</td>
<td>4332K</td>
<td>0.00155 (slightly green)</td>
<td>97</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>77</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>4179K</td>
<td>0.00134 (neutral)</td>
<td>97</td>
<td>91</td>
<td>79</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>4199K</td>
<td>0.00003 (neutral)</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>87</td>
<td>80</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>I've seen very few flashlights that do a better impression of afternoon sunlight than this. There's little shift from mode to mode, and the color rendering is excellent.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<h3>EC300 (first) vs Zebralight SC64c LE (second)</h3>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-03.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-03.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec300/sc64_02.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec300/sc64_02.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-20.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-20.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec300/sc64.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec300/sc64.jpg" /></a></p>
<h3>RGB</h3>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-11.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-11.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-12.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-12.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-13.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-13.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-06.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-06.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-04.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-04.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-05.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-05.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The EC300 uses a single 21700 battery; a 5000 mAh protected button top is optionally included. All 21700 batteries I tested from unprotected flat-tops to an extra-long Acebeam with a USB port fit and function normally, but vigorous shaking will cause an unprotected flat-top to break contact and turn off the light. Protected 18650s can be used without a spacer, but are subject to rattling. Combining the maximum mode and powerbank function should not exceed 10A, meaning nearly all 21700 batteries can safely provide all the power the EC300 might use.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-16.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-16.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Charging a 5000 mAh cell takes less than 3 hours, and the powerbank function can output nearly 3A at 5V (15W). Both charging and powerbank functions work with the light on. Low modes can be used from USB power without a battery installed.</p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p>The EC300 is marketed as an everyday carry light and can be carried in a typical pants pocket, but all 21700 flashlights are on the large side for that use case. The switch is raised and not difficult to find by feel, though it's opposite the USB port, which is also raised. Squeezing to press both reliably actuates the switch.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-10.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-10.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The pocket clip is usable, but could be improved with more ramp as Skilhunt has done with the M150 and M200 clips. The EC300 clip can require some effort to insert in many pockets.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The bezel unscrews easily providing access to a custom MCPCB with four white LEDs and one single-package RGB unit. Reflowing LEDs should be easy enough, but sourcing a replacement MCPCB may be difficult. The optic is the popular Carclo 10623, and can be replaced with other optics in that series such as the more focused 10621. The 10621 produces signiicant artiacts with the colored LED, but works well with white.</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-17.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-17.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-19.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-19.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec300/ec300-18.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec300/ec300-18.jpg" /></a></p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Winter Solstice 20222022-12-21T00:00:00+00:002022-12-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-12-21:/arbitrary-list-2022-3.html<p>Happy Winter Solstice! In the Northern hemisphere, today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight, and this may help you pick one.</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Winter Solstice, I've made an updated list of popular lights<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/h04/derivatives/full-width/P1270581.jpg">.</a> Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight in the Northern hemisphere and a great day to buy a new one!</p>
<p>There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. I have two options for that now. This version of the list includes affiliate links to dealers that pay me a kickback. The main <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/zsa1sz/arbitrary_list_of_popular_lights_winter_solstice/?">reddit version</a> of the list does not include affiliate links. I've set up a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">tip jar</a>. This list is intended as a community service, so please don't feel obligated to use either.</p>
<p>The following affiliate coupon codes are available:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://killzoneflashlights.com?ref=9">Killzoneflashlights.com</a>: zakreviews</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam.com</a>: ZW10</li>
</ul>
<p>Supply chain issues impacting the flashlight industry seem to be easing, but some prices have increased a little, and availability will remain a factor for inclusion in the list.</p>
<h1>The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the Catapult, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details. In this section, I've linked good places to buy the lights rather than the manufacturer.</p>
<p>This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a <strong>general-use light</strong> for <strong>$33</strong>. USB-C charging, and it now has proper C-to-C support. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI Nichia 519A LED option - a <strong>smaller everyday carry light</strong> with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849&ref=9">Skilhunt M200 v3</a> with high-CRI Nichia 519A LED option - a <strong>larger everyday carry light</strong> with USB-magnetic charging that could be described as a bigger M150 or a nicer FC11. Compared to the FC11, it's smaller and lighter, maintains higher brightness over time, charges faster, and has more pleasant tint. Unlike older versions of this light, the pocket clip is excellent. <strong>$64</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a>, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld <strong>tactical light</strong> or <strong>duty light</strong>. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). <strong>$77</strong> with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery. </li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 RC</a> with high-CRI Nichia 519A - a <strong>headlamp</strong>, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. <strong>$64</strong> with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFDS8ZS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - a <strong>large high-output light</strong> with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$67</strong> price tag. It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is sometimes available for those who miss the look of incandescents.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult Pro</a> - a <strong>long-range light</strong> able to provide fairly good visibility at 500m and detect large objects at twice that. This one doesn't have good color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and USB-C charging. Usually <strong>$80</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own, use, and buy. They score well on most measures flashlight nerds care about while also being beginner-friendly.</p>
<h1>About specs and considerations</h1>
<h2>Read more about things flashlight enthusiasts look for <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/specs">in the wiki</a>.</h2>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<h3>Small keychain lights</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Nitecore Tube 2.0</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$15</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/aurora-a1-4th-gen-metal-switch-usb-c-keychain-flashlight?variant=44150462284091">Rovyvon Aurora A1 USB-C</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB-C charging, 16g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$27</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-flashlight-330-lumens-max-small-light-with-10180-battery-included">Sofirn SC01</a> - neutral tint, 95 CRI, 330 lumen advertised max, which is sure to drop quickly because this runs on a tiny, but standardized and removable 10180 battery, which can be charged inside the light through a micro-USB port. This seems to be a continuation of the Cooyoo Quantum design that inspired many rebrands and derivatives. Currently only offered in stainless steel, but aluminum may make a return. <strong>$15</strong> from Sofirn's site, shipped from China.</li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt E3A</a> - a simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch and a high CRI option (recommended) for <strong>$14</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.reylight.net/product/reylight-pineapple-mini-aluminum/">Reylight Pineapple Mini</a> - a premium 1xAAA (or 1x10440 Li-ion) light with a tailswitch and Nichia 519A LED. That LED has excellent color rendering along with a neutral tint. <strong>$32</strong> for aluminum, more for titanium, mokume, etc....</li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10pro-aa-flashlight-anduril-2-attiny1616-version-lh351d-led-90cri">Sofirn SP10 Pro</a> - a sophisticated AA/14500 sideswitch light running Toykeeper's excellent Anduril 2 firmware. By default, it's a simple ramping UI with mode memory, but a great deal of customization is available. 900lm max on a 14500, and a high-CRI Samsung LH351D is the only LED option. <strong>$24</strong> with a batttery and charger, <strong>$22</strong> without.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m150-high-cri-4500k-v3?ref=9">Skilhunt M150</a> with the latest community-favorite LED: the high-CRI Nichia 519A. The M150 has a sideswitch with shortcuts, magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$45</strong> with battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a?ref=9">Skilhunt E2A</a> with high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price. <strong>$26</strong> including a 14500 battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-pokelit-aa?ref=9">Acebeam Pokelit</a> AA/14500 with high CRI, three modes, a tailswitch, and USB-charging 14500 battery included for <strong>$30</strong>, sometimes less.</li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097PT4WB4/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SC21</a> - a very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. 4000K (afternoon sunlight) and 2700K (incandescent-like) are also offered. <strong>$35</strong> with a battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP5137V?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SC21 Pro</a> - the above with ToyKeeper's sophisticated Anduril firmware. Most people who are technically inclined will prefer the extra functionality, but those who are not may find it too complex. <strong>$36</strong> with a battery</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Eagletac DX3B Mk II</a> - for those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging IlluminationGear has what looks to be a dealer exclusive option with an Osram White Flat LED for over 300m throw. Pricey at <strong>$95</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TR23GBY/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - a dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED for the very budget price of <strong>$27</strong> with battery and charger shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$79</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-4500k-m200-v3?variant=43526426394849&ref=9">Skilhunt M200 v3</a> (high-CRI Nichia 519A option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R or Baton Pro? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white Nichia 519A or Samsung LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. You can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery, or use an 18650 of your choice. <strong>$55</strong> without a battery, <strong>$64</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$33</strong>. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l17?variant=33102161707107&ref=9">Acebeam L17</a> - a compact thrower more suited to a jacket pocket than everyday carry like the rest of these but still quite compact for its 800m throw. This is unconventional in having its e-switch on the end of the tailcap. <strong>$60</strong> without a battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Fenix PD32 v2</a> - for those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone special edition) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). <strong>$67</strong> by itself, or <strong>$77</strong> with a battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-mini?variant=42939734720737&ref=9">Acebeam E70 Mini</a> A triple-emitter high-CRI Niciha 519A light with a tail e-switch and USB-charging 18650 included for <strong>$70</strong> without a battery, <strong>$80</strong> with.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://mankerlight.com/mankerlight-e02-ii/">Manker E02 II</a> - a 1xAAA/10440 right-angle light in which the neutral white option is high-CRI. This is a good choice for people who want a removable battery and light weight, as it's a mere 22g (without battery or headband). <strong>$23</strong> without headband, <strong>$30</strong> with</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Flashlight-Pocket-Size-Waterproof-5000K-kit/dp/B09QRPJ1S1?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn HS10</a> - a small and inexpensive, but power-inefficient 1x16340 right-angle light with high CRI and USB-C charging. Shipped from China, it's <strong>$20</strong> without a battery, <strong>$22</strong> with. <strong>$30</strong> on Amazon.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4500k-nichia-519a?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 Mini RC</a> - 18350 battery and USB-magnetic charging with my favorite headband in the industry and optional high-CRI 519A or LH351D. Most of the flashlight community prefers the 519A. This offers a floody TIR, less floody reflector (R model) or reflector with flippable diffuser (F model) for <strong>$54</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-Lumen-Triple-Output/dp/B0785TM5SX?tag=zakwilson01-20">Nitecore NU25 (2017)</a> - an ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://mankerlight.com/mankerlight-e03h-ii/">Manker E03H II</a> - a 1xAA/14500 right-angle light in which the neutral white option is high-CRI. An unusual feature of this light is sliding diffusers in frosted white, red, and green. <strong>$35</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-nichia-519a-4500k-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. These now offer a high-CRI 519A (recommended) or LH351D option, making it considerably more competitive. <strong>$46</strong>, or <strong>$54</strong> for the RC version with magnetic charging. Battery not included by default, but Skilhunt and dealers usually add one for less than $10.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JKDCJBH/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP40</a> (with LH351D) - high CRI, USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The -A model uses a TIR optic, but a lack of reviews has me holding off on recommending that yet. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them. <strong>$28</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A</a> - 1x18650 ) right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "reddit" for a discount. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h300-high-cri-headlamp?variant=43153982521569&ref=9">Skilhunt H300</a> - A similar design to the Wizard C2 Pro with a lower price and better headband. Now that a high-CRI option is offered, I have reason to add it to the list. <strong>$70</strong> without a battery, <strong>$80</strong> with</li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos HD20</a> - 21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Fenix HP30R v2</a> - 2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive at <strong>$220</strong>, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">Acebeam L35</a> - Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch. <strong>$90</strong> from Killzone.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Eagletac GX30L2-R</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l18?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam L18</a> - this is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light. <strong>$85</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TC20-V2-Flashlight-Rechargeable/dp/B09RWSTKDM?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC20 v2</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 208 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong> typically, but often <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFDS8ZS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging, USB powerbank. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not <em>always</em>. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. <strong>$67</strong> with batteries</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam E70 FC40</a> - a compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-ec300?ref=9">Skilhunt EC300</a> A quad-emitter flooder with a 21700 battery and a choice of low or high CRI Luminus SST-20s and RGB secondary emitters. Lights fitting that description aren't rare lately, but this one has standards-compliant USB-C charging and a powerbank feature with output around 5V/3A. That makes it one of the most effective powerbank/flashlight combinations that might fit in a pants pocket. <strong>$68</strong> without a battery, <strong>81</strong> with.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Flashlight-Powerful-Thrower-Discharge/dp/B09SV4Q4PF?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn IF22A</a> - 21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function. Battery included for <strong>$37</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Manker U22 III</a> - 21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. This has a more efficient driver than the IF22A, so it should handle sustained operation better. <strong>$74</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - choice of LEDs, 21700 battery, USB-C, and an advanced, configurable user interface. Osram W1 for most throw, Osraw W2 for some more output at a cost of heat and battery life, SBT90 for a lot of output, a lot of heat, $50 extra, and not much battery life. XHP35 HI for a more balanced light with better color rendering and more stable output as the battery drains. This is an enthusiast-oriented light, but it gets a place here because Illumn sells it, so it's easy to buy if you're in the US. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091DZMB55?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult Pro</a> - a 26650 battery thrower with high output, 1km FL1 throw, and USB-C charging. Battery included for <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k75?ref=9">Acebeam K75</a> - 2.5km and 6500lm, but large with 4x18650 batteries and a 13cm wide head. <strong>$280</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002647258079.html">Convoy 4x18A SBT90</a> - a budget light in this category with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-x75?ref=9">Acebeam X75</a> - one of the highest output lights on the market at 80,000 lumens, a figure I believe to be more honest than the Imalent MS18's claimed 100,000. There's also a throwy version with 67,000 claimed lumens and throw increased to 1306m from 1150. Waterproof/submersible in spite of a cooling fan and USB-PD powerbank function (up to 20V 3A output, able to power many laptop computers). The battery pack is, unfortunately proprietary. <strong>$400</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Fenix WF30RE</a> - the closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Lantern-Rehargeable-Runtime-flaslight/dp/B097MN6P1B?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn BLF LT1</a> - 4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality. <strong>$87</strong> with batteries.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4500K, 90+ CRI Nichia 519A to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, different optics, and high-efficiency <strong>boost driver</strong>. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2022 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Emisar D4v2 channel switching</a> - the above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This a tail-e-switch D4. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. <strong>$55</strong> As with the D4, there's a channel switching version for <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-dw4-right-angle-1-18650-work-light.html">Emisar DW4</a> - this is a D4, but the light comes out the side, making it suitable as a magnetic work light or headlamp. Starts at <strong>$50</strong> and goes up with various optional upgrades.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003914620098.html">Convoy S2+/519A</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. The new Nichia 519A will probably satisfy the most people with fairly high output, a balanced beam profile, and color rendering that's amazingly close to sunlight even compared to other high-CRI LEDs. Other popular options include the throwy Luminus SST-20 and rosy-tinted Nichia 219B. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$17</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4k-1-21700-high-power-quad-edc-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4K</a> - the D4 with a 21700 battery. It's exactly what you'd expect, from <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wurkkos-TS10-Flashlight-Waterproof-Anduril/dp/B0BBDYXM83?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos TS10</a> - a 14500 (not AA) light with a tail E-switch, Anduril 2, and three high-CRI CSP emitters for a floody 1400 lumens. <strong>$18</strong> without a battery, <strong>$20</strong> with, <strong>$28</strong> from Amazon</li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/new-emisar-d1-mini-pocket-thrower.html">Emisar D1</a> - This is a jacket pocket 1x18650 light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. Several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. A boost driver option is now offered with a Cree XHP70.3 HI, high-CRI Getian FC40, or Nichia B35A. Starts at <strong>$39</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - This is a tailswitch version of the D1. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$21</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Convoy M21C FC40</a> - 1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the "crumpled" reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (219B optional). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$109</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803900100503.html">Convoy M3-C FC40</a> - a 1x26650 light with USB-C charging and excellent color rendering in a wide range of color tempertures from 1800K to 5500K. <strong>$37</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and a variety of LED options. 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP70.3 HI or high-CRI Getian FC40. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$100</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Convoy L21B SFT40</a> - 1x21700, 1258m throw, <strong>$35</strong>. Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x that price? It wasn't long ago.</li>
</ul>Review: Acebeam EC35 II (Killzone SST-20 edition)2022-11-28T00:00:00+00:002022-11-28T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-11-28:/killzone-acebeam-ec35.html<p>The Acebeam EC35 II (SST-20) is a duty/tactical light with high CRI, a decent amount of throw, USB-C charging, and a powerbank function.</p><p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0009.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>This <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II (SST-20)</a> was provided by Killzone Flashlights for review. That's an affiliate link, and my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" will get you 10% off most flashlights at Killzone.</p>
<p>I played a small role in the creation of this special edition by sugesting the use of the high-CRI SST-20.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0010.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/ec34_0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0004.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Acebeam EC35 II is a duty/tactical flashlight slim enough for pants pocket carry. This Killzone special edition uses a Luminus SST-20 LED with better color rendering, more throw, and less output than the Samsung LH351D used in the base model. Intensity (candela) or throw distance is often lacking in lights this size with higher output numbers, or only available briefly due to heat. It's almost never combined with good color rendering in duty-style flashlights.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>With quick access to max output via the tailswitch and a selection of modes including sub-lumen moonlight available through the sideswitch, the EC35 II is suited to a range of situations from emergencies to use inside a darkened vehicle. The USB port even serves as a powerbank to charge other devices, though I find that function a bit out of place on a duty light. A rubber plug of reasonable quality seals the port when not in use, though it is not waterproof if the plug is removed.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0006.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Perhaps the biggest shortcoming in my review sample is the LED itself. My sample is unusually green, outside of ANSI white on lower modes. Color rendering measurements are also worse than the same emitter in other Acebeam lights. It is, however <em>vastly</em> better than the industry average for duty lights. The EC35 II SST-20 is <strong>recommended</strong>.</p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x18650, 2xCR123A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Luminus SST-20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>4470 K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>92.1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>720 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>223 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>444 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable throw</td>
<td>175 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>642 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>101 lm/W @ 285 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>17.3 (mildly throwy)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>139 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>29 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>85 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>134 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C (noncompliant)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$77</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (4/5 recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>High-only tailswitch for easy operation under stress</li>
<li>Good sustainable throw without overheating (for it size)</li>
<li>Good build quality</li>
<li>Fits and charges virtually any 18650 battery</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Green tint</li>
<li>Not waterproof with USB flap open</li>
<li>Noncompliant USB-C charging requires A-C cable</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The EC35 II SST-20 only comes one way, though the bundled battery is optional. There is also a base model EC35 II with a low-CRI Samsung LH351D.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The EC35 II comes with a holster, user manual, USB cable, lanyard, spare O-rings and spare tailswitch cover. An 18650 battery is optional.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click sideswitch</td>
<td>Last used (except strobe, moonlight, turbo)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click sideswitch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press sideswitch</td>
<td>Moonlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click sideswitch</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click sideswitch</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>Double-click sideswitch</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Half-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Turbo (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Full-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Turbo (on)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold sideswitch 3s</td>
<td>lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold sideswitch 3s</td>
<td>Moonlight</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Using the tailswitch overrides any mode chosen with the sideswitch other than lockout. Turning the tailswitch off always turns off the light.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>There are no official performance figures published for the SST-20 version of the EC35 II.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Candela</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Moonlight</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>14</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>228</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>127</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>2152</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>285</td>
<td>139</td>
<td>4830</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>720</td>
<td>223</td>
<td>12480</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>127</td>
<td>423</td>
<td>428</td>
<td>431</td>
<td>87</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>285</td>
<td>221</td>
<td>227</td>
<td>237</td>
<td>101</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>720</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>104</td>
<td>123</td>
<td>80</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo (cooled)</td>
<td>720</td>
<td>40</td>
<td>63</td>
<td>91</td>
<td>70</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Measuring current draw was not practical due to the nested-tube body design.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/med.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/med.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/high.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/high.png" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/max.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/max.png" /></a><<a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/max2.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/max2.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Readings are taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Moonlight</td>
<td>4478K</td>
<td>0.006155 (extremely green)</td>
<td>93.8</td>
<td>79.2</td>
<td>69.0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>4271K</td>
<td>0.007144 (extremely green)</td>
<td>93.3</td>
<td>75.3</td>
<td>69.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>4470K</td>
<td>0.006624 (extremely green)</td>
<td>92.1</td>
<td>69.0</td>
<td>70.9</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>4401K</td>
<td>0.005928 (very green)</td>
<td>91.2</td>
<td>67.7</td>
<td>73.3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>4666K</td>
<td>0.002981 (moderately green)</td>
<td>92.1</td>
<td>73.4</td>
<td>81.2</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>A Duv greater than +/- 0.006 is not white according to ANSI standards. Only turbo has tint I would describe as pleasant, and the change in that mode is as noticeable to the eye as the numbers suggest. CRI numbers are also a little bit disappointing for an SST-20, which usually has an Ra over 95 and R9 in the 90s. Other Acebeam lights using 4000K SST-20s such as the <a href="https://zakreviews.com/acebeam-tk16.html">TK16</a> had much better tint and R9 numbers.</p>
<p>Despite that, the industry average is an Ra around 70 and a negative number for R9, so the EC35 compares favorably to most of its competition. The recent industry trend to use cool white Luminus SST-40s in similar lights makes the green tint seen here look mild.</p>
<p>There is a slight ripple in moonlight, but no PWM flicker in any mode.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0007.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0008.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>EC35 vs Olight Warrior Mini 2 and Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35-2.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35-2.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec35/wm2.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec35/wm2.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec35/sc64_02.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec35/sc64_02.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35-1.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35-1.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec35/wm2_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec35/wm2_01.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/ec35/sc64_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/ec35/sc64_01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>EC35 vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35_0011.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/ec35/sc64.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/ec35/sc64.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The EC35 II can use virtually any 18650 battery. Protected, unprotected, protected with USB port, button-top, flat-top, and flat-top with a significant dent all work reliably. Shaking the the flashlight vigorously does not cause any battery to disconnect. 2xCR123A is compatible as a backup option.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/ec35/ec35.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/ec35/ec35.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>All manufacturers should take note here. This is battery compatibility done right.</p>
<p>18650 batteries can be charged inside the light using a USB-C port, however a USB A-C cable must be used. The EC35 II can act as a USB powerbank, and can use a C-C cable to power another device at up to roughly 2A.</p>Review: Thrunite Archer Mini2022-11-14T00:00:00+00:002022-11-14T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-11-14:/archer-mini.html<p>The Thrunite Archer Mini is a small flashlight with USB-C charging and a very green LED</p><p>This <a href="https://thrunite.com/archer-mini-black/">Thrunite Archer Mini</a> was provided by Thrunite for review.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/archer-mini/1.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/1.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Thrunite Archer Mini is a small everyday carry flashlight with a non-removable battery, but similar to 1xAAA in size. There's a tail e-switch with shortcuts to low and high from off, but those (and strobe) are the only modes. The low is a fairly bright 18 lumens, far too much to preserve dark adaptation. It has a USB-C port under a threaded collar for charging.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/archer-mini/2.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/2.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>One of the core features of any flashlight is the <em>light</em> it produces, and that's where the Archer Mini disappoints. With 351 lumens at power-on and 150 sustainable, there's plenty of it for a light this size, but the quality of the light is terrible. It's not just cool white or poor at rendering colors, common common flaws of mass-market flashlights. It's not white at all according to ANSI standards. It's <em>green</em>. It's so green that it wouldn't qualify as white if it was half as green.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/archer-mini/5.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/5.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>For somebody who doesn't care about color, or dark adaptation, or having a flashlight with a shelf-life longer than that of a a Li-ion battery, this light is fine. I think we should care about those things though, and the Archer mini is not recommended.</p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>Sealed Li-ion</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Luminus SST-20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>7012K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>69.3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>351 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>83 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>150 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>4.9 (floody)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>83 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>16.7 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>34 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Operation while charging</td>
<td>Yes, all modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$27</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★☆☆☆ (not recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>The charging port under a threaded collar is convenient</li>
<li>A tail e-switch in this form factor is unusual</li>
<li>All modes are functional while charging</li>
<li>Compliant USB-C </li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Extremely green tint</li>
<li>Cool "white", low CRI (to the extent that CRI can be measured for an LED that isn't white)</li>
<li>Non-removable battery results in a light that's effectively disposable after a few years</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The Archer Mini comes in black, green, and tan body colors with a choice of cool or neutral white. This is the black, cool white version.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/archer-mini/4.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/4.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>Included accessories are a USB A-C cable and instruction sheet in Chinese, English, Japanese, and German. </p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>High</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe (from on)</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe (from off)</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>19</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>405</td>
<td>351</td>
<td>83</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>8.5 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>351</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>60 minutes</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/archer-mini/low.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/low.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/archer-mini/high.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/high.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer on high, following the timed stepdown.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>7012K</td>
<td>0.0134 (extremely green)</td>
<td>69.3</td>
<td>-54.5</td>
<td>30.8</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>A tint Duv greater than +/- 0.006 is not white according to ANSI C78.377-2008. This light is over twice the allowable distance from white. CRI values for non-white light are not valid, but if they were, these would be very bad.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Versus Zebralight SC64c LE (right)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/archer-mini/3.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/3.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/archer-mini/comp-2.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/comp-2.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/archer-mini/7.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/7.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/archer-mini/comp-1.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/comp-1.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/archer-mini/6.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/archer-mini/6.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The battery is built in to the Archer Mini and is described as a 10440 Li-ion on the product page. It charges via USB-C, and all USB C-to-C power supplies I tested work.</p>Review: Skilhunt M200 - a useful everyday carry light with 18650 power, magnetic charging, and high CRI2022-08-16T00:00:00+00:002022-08-16T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-08-16:/skilhunt-m200.html<p>The Skilhunt M200 is a medium-size everyday carry flashlight with an optional high-CRI LED, USB-magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. It ought to be more popular than it is; perhaps it needs a different pocket clip.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m200-new-edition-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt M200</a> was provided by Skilhunt for review. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/?ref=9">Killzone Flashlights</a>, a Skilhunt dealer for the US facilitated the arrangement. Here's the <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m200-new-editable-led-flashlight?ref=9">H04F RC at Killzone</a>. Those are affiliate links to Killzone, and my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" will get you 10% off most flashlights, including the M200.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Skilhunt M200 is a medium-size everyday carry flashlight with an optional high-CRI LED, USB-magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. At a glance, it has much in common with the more popular Olight Baton series, but offers features those lack such as LEDs with good color rendering and the ability to use standard 18650 batteries. Olight users will even find the user interface familiar, though more customizable once they switch to the second mode group.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200/0010.jpg
"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200/0010.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The M200 is more compact and power-efficient than is typical of budget models, and its magnetic charging pad is more waterproof than a USB port, at a cost of using a proprietary cable. Its 944 lumen maximum output and 133m FL1 throw won't break any records in an age of hot-rod flashlights that burn the user's hand after a few seconds, but they're more than adequate for most situations a daily carry light would encounter. Ergonomically, it's mostly a simple tube, but both the switch and charging pad are on opposing plateaus. It can be hard to tell which is which by feel, but squeezing both is easy enough. The only real complaint is the pocket clip: it's bezel-up only and shallow-carry.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200/0011.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Mainstream users will find a lot to like in the M200, and I think enthusiasts won't feel left out either, as long as they can stand the pocket clip. The M200 is recommended.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/0009.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/0007.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x18650, 2xCR123A, 2x16340, 2x18350</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Samsung LH351D</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>5078K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>91</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>944lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>133m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>485lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>141 lm/W @ 79lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>4.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>104.5mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>23.5mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>44g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>90g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>Proprietary USB-magnetic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$47</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Good efficiency</li>
<li>Customizable modes</li>
<li>Magnetic charging can be convenient</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Pocket clip is substandard</li>
<li>Tint is a little green</li>
<li>Magnetic charging is proprietary</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The M200 offers a choice of Cree XP-L or Samsung LH351D LEDs. This is the LH351D version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The M200 comes with a pocket clip, charging cable, lanyard, spare O-rings, and user manual.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200/0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200/0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>There are two different UIs: mode group A, and B. A resembles Skilhunt's older products, while B is similar to UIs used by Acebeam, Olight, and Thrunite, but with more modes, and user control over what modes are available. Skilhunt uses L, M, H, and T 2 and 1 to designate the modes, in order of lowest to highest. Blinking modes are designated S 1-3.</p>
<h3>Mode Group A</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last used (except Turbo, Strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low (last-used of L1, L2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo (last-used of T1, T2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo/strobe</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Toggle sub-mode (e.g. M1, M2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2S</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5S</td>
<td>Mode group B</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Mode group B</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used (except T1, S)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Lowest enabled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through steady modes (except T1)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>T1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Last-used strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle variable strobe, slow beacon, fast beacon</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2s</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 2S</td>
<td>Lowest enabled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5s</td>
<td>Mode group A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Config</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Note that while the lowest mode can be saved into memory, it is <em>not</em> saved when accessed using the shortcut from off.</p>
<p>Loosening the tailcap a quarter turn locks out activation mechanically.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with a Skilhunt 3500 mAh 18650 battery and Cree XP-L emitter. Tested performance is with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery, which should result in slightly shorter runtime. This sample uses a Samsung LH351D emitter, which should have similar output and less throw.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>17</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>34</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>25</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>70</td>
<td>79</td>
<td>43</td>
<td>38</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>150</td>
<td>155</td>
<td>62</td>
<td>52</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>370</td>
<td>374</td>
<td>98</td>
<td>81</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>535</td>
<td>532</td>
<td>118</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>1000</td>
<td>944</td>
<td>161</td>
<td>133</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1 (2x18350) 1000</td>
<td>1051</td>
<td>161</td>
<td>141</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Advertised minutes</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
<td>0.039</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
<td>5.5</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>9000</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
<td>38</td>
<td>125</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>34</td>
<td>1500</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4737</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>135</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>79</td>
<td>600</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3000</td>
<td>133</td>
<td>141</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>155</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>677</td>
<td>266</td>
<td>139</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>374</td>
<td>150</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>267</td>
<td>675</td>
<td>125</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>532</td>
<td>90</td>
<td>126</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>149</td>
<td>1120</td>
<td>112</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>944</td>
<td>92</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>128</td>
<td>153</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>112</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/m200-max.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/m200-max.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/m200-high.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/m200-high.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer on medium.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>5078K</td>
<td>0.0040 (very green)</td>
<td>91</td>
<td>48</td>
<td>74</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>M200 (left) vs Zebralight SC64c LE (right)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/zl1.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/zl1.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/0003.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/m200/0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/m200/0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The main battery for the M200 is a single 18650 Li-ion rechargeable. Any 18650 can be charged internally with the magnetic cable, and a 3000 mAh battery takes about 4 hours to charge.</p>
<p>Two CR123As, 16340s, or 18350s can be used as spares. They cannot be charged internally.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The M200's bezel unscrews easily, giving access to the reflector, MCPCB, and emitter. Any of the popular 3-volt, 3535 size emitters should work. It is likely possible to find alternate optics, such as TIRs. An Olight pocket clip from the Baton series can be used, even for a bezel-down orientation. This improves the M200's ergonomics.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/m200/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/m200/0004.jpg" /></a></p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Summer Solstice 20222022-06-21T00:00:00+00:002022-06-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-06-21:/arbitrary-list-2022-2.html<p>Happy Summer Solstice! In the Northern hemisphere, today is the day you're least likely to need a flashlight, but the probability only increases from here.</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Summer Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/h04/20210827_0019.jpg">.</a> Today is the day you're least likely to need a flashlight, but the chances only increase from here.</p>
<p>There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Where possible, official manufacturer URLs are linked here. Sometimes the manufacturer offers good deals through direct orders, sometimes vendors have the best prices. There are <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/index#wiki_coupon_codes">coupon codes available</a> that apply to many of the lights listed.</p>
<p>Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. I have two options for that now: I'm hosting a <a href="http://zakreviews.com/arbitrary-list-2022.2.html">version of this list</a> on my own site with affiliate links, and I've set up a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">tip jar</a>. This list is intended as a community service, so please don't feel obligated to use either.</p>
<p>A global supply chain disription continues to impact the flashlight industry (and many others), so some popular lights are temporarily or permanently unavailable. In many cases, this list reflects current availability.</p>
<h1>The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the Catapult, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details. In this section, I've linked good places to buy the lights rather than the manufacturer.</p>
<p>This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a <strong>general-use light</strong> for <strong>$33</strong>. USB-C charging, and it now has proper C-to-C support. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MT3TZNW/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI Nichia 519A LED option (if available), otherwise LH351Dd - a <strong>smaller everyday carry light</strong> with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. <strong>$52</strong> on Amazon, but make sure it's the high CRI version as the other options have poor color quality. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a>, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld <strong>tactical light</strong> or <strong>duty light</strong>. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). <strong>$77</strong> with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery. </li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 RC</a> with high-CRI LH351D - a <strong>headlamp</strong>, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. <strong>$58</strong> with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFDS8ZS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - a <strong>larger high-output light</strong> with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$67</strong> price tag. It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V4Z7X6N?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult V6 SST70</a> - a <strong>long-range light</strong> able to provide fairly good visibility at 350m and detect large objects at twice that. This one doesn't have good color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and USB-C charging. Usually <strong>$75</strong>, but a 15% off coupon was shown at the time this list was published.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own, use, and buy. They score well on most measures flashlight nerds care about while also being beginner-friendly.</p>
<h1>About specs and considerations</h1>
<h2>Read more about things flashlight enthusiasts look for <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/specs">in the wiki</a>.</h2>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Nitecore Tube 2.0</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$10</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/aurora-a1-usb-c-keychain-flashlight?variant=39742901354599">Rovyvon Aurora A1 USB-C</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB-C charging, 16g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$27</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-flashlight-330-lumens-max-small-light-with-10180-battery-included">Sofirn SC01</a> - neutral tint, 95 CRI, 330 lumen advertised max, which is sure to drop quickly because this runs on a tiny, but standardized and removable 10180 battery, which can be charged inside the light through a micro-USB port. This seems to be a continuation of the Cooyoo Quantum design that inspired many rebrands and derivatives. Currently only offered in stainless steel, but aluminum may make a return. <strong>$17</strong> from Sofirn's site, shipped from China.</li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt E3A</a> - a simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch and a high CRI option (recommended) for <strong>$14</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options. <strong>$26</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.reylight.net/product/reylight-pineapple-mini-aluminum/">Reylight Pineapple Mini</a> - a premium 1xAAA (or 1x10440 Li-ion) light with a tailswitch and Nichia 219B sw45k LED. That LED has excellent color rendering along with a rosy tint many enthusiasts love. <strong>$30</strong> for aluminum, more for titanium, mokume, etc....</li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10pro-aa-flashlight-anduril-2-attiny1616-version-lh351d-led-90cri">Sofirn SP10 Pro</a> - a sophisticated AA/14500 sideswitch light running Toykeeper's excellent Anduril 2 firmware. By default, it's a simple ramping UI with mode memory, but a great deal of customization is available. 900lm max on a 14500, and a high-CRI Samsung LH351D is the only LED option. <strong>$26</strong> with a batttery and charger, <strong>$24</strong> without.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with the latest community-favorite LED: the high-CRI Nichia 519A. The M150 has a sideswitch with shortcuts, magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$45</strong> with battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/e2a-14500-aa-600-lumens-compact-pocket-edc-mini-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt E2A</a> with high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.zebralight.com/SC53w-AA-Neutral-White-Flashlight_p_202.html">Zebralight SC53w</a> - 80 CRI, neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. AA only. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e05-pocket-ultra-throw-led-flashlight/">Manker E05</a> - for those who want over 200m of throw (when used with a 14500 Li-ion battery) in 20mm diameter. Big throw in a small package is this pony's only trick, and it unfortunately has strobe included in the mode rotation. <strong>$26</strong> in aluminum, or <strong>$50</strong> in titanium.</li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc21-mini-flashlight-rechargeable-max-1000-high-lumens-keychain-flashlight-super-bright?variant=ff0e7fda-98e9-41b2-a983-0087f6da7b00">Sofirn SC21</a> - a very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. 4000K (afternoon sunlight) and 2700K (incandescent-like) are also offered. <strong>$23</strong> without battery or <strong>$25</strong> with shipped from China. <strong>$35</strong> on Amazon.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc21pro-anduril-1-ui-mini-flashlight-with-lh351d-led?variant=8ef0c136-164e-47fd-b5c3-c4d946730fd6">Sofirn SC21 Pro</a> - the above with ToyKeeper's sophisticated Anduril firmware. Most people who are technically inclined will prefer the extra functionality, but those who are not may find it too complex. <strong>$24</strong> without battery, <strong>$26</strong> with.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t1-magnetic-tailcap-pocket-flashlight/">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Eagletac DX3B Mk II</a> - for those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging IlluminationGear has what looks to be a dealer exclusive option with an Osram White Flat LED for over 300m throw. Pricey at <strong>$95</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp31v20-powerful-1200-lumens-flashlight-with-xpl-hi-or-lh351d-5000k-tactical-torch-dual-switch?variant=530952a9-c192-491a-8585-23f4f011d472">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - a dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED for the very budget price of <strong>$30</strong> with battery and charger shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$79</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m200-new-editable-led-flashlight?ref=9">Skilhunt M200</a> (high-CRI LH351D option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$48</strong> without a battery, <strong>$58</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$33</strong>. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l17?variant=33102092828771&ref=9">Acebeam L17</a> - a compact thrower more suited to a jacket pocket than everyday carry like the rest of these but still quite compact for its 800m throw. This is unconventional in having its e-switch on the end of the tailcap. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Fenix PD32 v2</a> - for those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone special edition) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). <strong>$67</strong> by itself, or <strong>$77</strong> with a battery.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-hs05-1000lm-mini-headlamp-with-lh351d-led-dual-way-clip-with-magnetic-tailcap-powered-by-14500-battery">Sofirn HS05</a> - AA or 14500 battery, tailcap magnet, high-CRI LH351D LED. There aren't many reviews out yet, but this has a lot going for it for <strong>$23</strong> without a battery and <strong>$25</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-5000k-samsung-lh351d?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 Mini RC</a> - 18350 battery and USB-magnetic charging with my favorite headband in the industry and optional high-CRI LH351D. This offers a floody TIR, less floody reflector (R model) or reflector with flippable diffuser (F model) for <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25">Nitecore NU25</a> - an ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h17?ref=9">Acebeam H17</a> - right-angle form factor, three emitters, high-CRI, and an 18350 battery. I think most will prefer the Nichia 219C's tint. Expensive at <strong>$60</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-high-cri-5000k-samsung-lh351d?variant=37387141513400&ref=9">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. These now offer a high-CRI LH351D option, making it considerably more competitive. <strong>$43</strong>, or <strong>$52</strong> for the RC version with magnetic charging. Battery not included by default, but Skilhunt and dealers usually add one for less than $10.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0912NSJS5/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP40</a> (with LH351D) - high CRI, USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The -A model uses a TIR optic, but a lack of reviews has me holding off on recommending that yet. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm">Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A</a> - 1x18650 right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "reddit" for a discount. <strong>$90</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?variant=12751391096931&ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos HD20</a> - 21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor. <strong>$49</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Fenix HP30R v2</a> - 2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive at <strong>$220</strong>, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">Acebeam L35</a> - Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch. <strong>$90</strong> from Killzone.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Eagletac GX30L2-R</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l18?ref=9">Acebeam L18</a> - this is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light. <strong>$70</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://thrunite.com/tc20-v2-black/">Thrunite TC20 v2</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 208 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong> typically, but often <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp36-blf-anduril-5650-lumen-rechargeable-flashlight-lh351d-led-powered-by-batteries-choose-5000k-4000k-2700k?scm=spz.search&ssp=spz&spm=..search.search_1.2&variant=f950fde1-e407-47ab-9fcf-50ba6d340b76">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging, USB powerbank. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not <em>always</em>. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. <strong>$47</strong> from Sofirn's site without batteries, <strong>$56</strong> with, more from Amazon.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum?variant=40411891597496&ref=9">Acebeam E70 FC40</a> - a compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm. <strong>$75</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-if22a-rechargeable-spotlight-flashlight-powerful-sft40-led-max-2100-lumens-long-beam-distance-light-with-power-bank-function?scm=spz.search&ssp=spz&spm=..search.search_1.1&variant=2ca47f77-2e59-4227-9721-68f1b27c51fb">Sofirn IF22A</a> - 21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function. Battery included for <strong>$33</strong> shipped from China, <strong>$36</strong> with a bundled battery.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Manker U22 III</a> - 21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. This has a more efficient driver than the IF22A, so it should handle sustained operation better. <strong>$74</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - choice of LEDs, 21700 battery, USB-C, and an advanced, configurable user interface. Osram W1 for most throw, Osraw W2 for some more output at a cost of heat and battery life, SBT90 for a lot of output, a lot of heat, $50 extra, and not much battery life. XHP35 HI for a more balanced light with better color rendering and more stable output as the battery drains. This is an enthusiast-oriented light, but it gets a place here because Illumn sells it, so it's easy to buy if you're in the US. <strong>$100</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.acebeam.com/k30-gt+affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam K30GT</a> - a hybrid, but leaning toward the throw side of things with 1km. 5500 lumens, but not for long due to heat. 3x18650. Recently reduced from $160 to <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k65-gt">Acebeam K65GT</a> - 1.6km and 6500lm, but much bigger than the K30GT with 4x18650 batteries, giving it the ability to say bright longer without overheating. <strong>$240</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002647258079.html">Convoy 4x18A SBT90</a> - a budget K65GT with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentstore.com/products/imalent-ms18-100000-lumen-flashlight">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. A warm white option was added at some point, and I'd probably go with that if I was getting one. <strong>$560</strong> if you shop around.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-l116t-ra-cri95-super-slim-led-light-panel-3300k-5600k-led-video-light-panel-lcd-display-screen-color-temperature-and-brightness-can-be-adjusted-with-np-f550-lithium-battery">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-vl-200-ii-video-led-light-bi-color-3300k-5600k-30w-dimmable-led-video-light-panel-cri95-daylight-balanced-portable-continuous-lamp-with-wireless-remote-control-dc-adapter">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. Radio-based remote control. <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Fenix WF30RE</a> - the closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-blf-lt1-rechargeable-lantern-with-power-bank-function-adjustable-color-temperature-super-long-working-time">Sofirn BLF LT1</a> - 4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality on newer models. <strong>$66</strong> from Sofirn's site without batteries.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4500K, 90+ CRI Nichia 519A to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, different optics, and high-efficiency <strong>boost driver</strong>. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2022 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Emisar D4v2 channel switching</a> - the above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This a tail-e-switch D4. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. <strong>$55</strong> As with the D4, there's a channel switching version for <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-dw4-right-angle-1-18650-work-light.html">Emisar DW4</a> - this is a D4, but the light comes out the side, making it suitable as a magnetic work light or headlamp. Starts at <strong>$50</strong> and goes up with various optional upgrades.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003914620098.html">Convoy S2+/519A</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. The new Nichia 519A will probably satisfy the most people with fairly high output, a balanced beam profile, and color rendering that's amazingly close to sunlight even compared to other high-CRI LEDs. Other popular options include the throwy Luminus SST-20 and rosy-tinted Nichia 219B. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$17</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-dm11-1-21700-middle-range-thrower.html">Noctigon DM11 (boost driver)</a> - 1x21700 - advertised as a "middle range thrower", I'd describe it more as a throwy general-purpose light with about 1600lm and 380m throw from the Nichia B35A (with <em>excellent</em> color rendering) or Cree XHP35 HI (a bit more throw). With the boost driver, the DM11 has stable output at most levels, good performance in the cold, and more efficience in medium and low modes than many enthusiast lights. Many color temperatures are offered with the B35A, and RGB aux LEDs provide a colorful accent (or battery voltage monitor) under the TIR optic. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-dm11-1-21700-middle-range-thrower.html">Noctigon DM11 (linear driver)</a> - 1x21700 middle-range thrower with a bit over 700m FL1 throw using Osram Boost series or Luminus SFT40 LEDs, all in cool white. Red, green or blue main Osram emitters are available as well, along with SST20, SST40, XP-L HI and likely anything else that runs at 3 volts by request. <strong>$60</strong> or <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - Do you miss the Emisar D1? This is a jacket pocket light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. As with the DM11 (linear), several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. A boost driver option is now offered with a high-CRI Getian FC40 or Nichia B35A. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$21</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Convoy M21C FC40</a> - 1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the "crumpled" reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (219B optional). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$109</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://usa.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SFT40-2200lm-1200m-SST40-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Long-Range-Strong-Search-Torch-p-1420116.html?imageAb=1&rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6313910&cur_warehouse=CN&akmClientCountry=America&akmClientCountry=America">Astrolux FT03 SFT-40</a> FET driver, SFT-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 1200m throw and 2220 lumens advertised, which seems realistic. <strong>47</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803900100503.html">Convoy M3-C FC40</a> - a 1x26650 light with USB-C charging and excellent color rendering in a wide range of color tempertures from 1800K to 5500K. <strong>$37</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP35 HI. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$100</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Convoy L21B SFT40</a> - 1x21700, 1258m throw, <strong>$35</strong>. Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x that price? It wasn't long ago.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/lumintop-blf-gt90-7000-lumens-high-intensity-flashlight-sbt90-p0061.html">BLF GT90</a> - A huge 8x18650 flashlight with a Luminus SBT-90.2 for over 7000 lumens and 2700m throw claimed, but that's going to be limited by heat and power. For sustainable performance, the original may have the advantage. For short bursts, this will be most impressive. <strong>400</strong>, but look for discounts</li>
</ul>Mastodon - a new way to follow and comment2022-05-23T00:00:00+00:002022-05-23T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-05-23:/mastodon.html<p>I've added Mastodon support to this site, which you can use to subscribe to posts and leave comments. This post contains a brief introduction.</p><h1>What's this?</h1>
<p><a href="https://joinmastodon.org/">Mastodon</a> is a bit like Twitter, but instead of just one service provider, there are many, and they can talk to each other. The easiest way to use it is to sign up at <a href="https://mastodon.social">mastodon.social</a>.</p>
<p>Mastodon allows you to follow me, like Twitter or Instagram, but I've also embedded it in my more recent posts as a comment system like <a href="https://disqus.com/">Disqus</a>. Just create your account, then click the blue Mastodon icon at the top, then the blue follow button at the top to follow me, or the reply button at the end to leave a comment.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/mastodon/2.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/mastodon/2.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/mastodon/1.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/mastodon/1.png" /></a></p>
<h1>Why?</h1>
<p>A handful of big tech platforms control most public conversation on the Internet. They decide what gets popular based on what an algorithm determines will most effectively hijack peoples' attention. A few companies deciding what's popular is not the Internet I was promised, and I'm hoping to do my small part to bring back a bit of the old magic.</p>
<h1>How?</h1>
<p>This gets a bit more technical. If you just want to follow or comment, see above.</p>
<p>Mastodon is similar to Twitter from a user's perspective, but the way it works internally is pretty different. It uses a protocol called <a href="https://activitypub.rocks/">ActivityPub</a> to communicate between servers so that people don't have to have the same service provider to communicate, a bit like email or a telephone number. Here's a list of <a href="https://joinmastodon.org/communities">public Mastodon servers</a>. People with Linux server administration experience may wish to run their own server like I do.</p>
<p>It's not even necessary for everyone to use Mastodon; there are <a href="https://fediverse.party/en/fediverse/">several other options</a> that speak ActivityPub which a visitor can use to follow or comment. Having run Pleroma and Hubzilla for a bit, I found Mastodon to be the most polished </p>
<p>I modified code from <a href="https://carlschwan.eu/2020/12/29/adding-comments-to-your-static-blog-with-mastodon/">Adding comments to your static blog with Mastodon</a> by Carl Schwan to embed comments here.</p>Review: Acebeam Rider RX - a fidgety high-CRI AA/14500 light2022-05-19T00:00:00+00:002022-05-19T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-05-19:/rider-rx.html<p>The Acebeam Rider RX is a 14500/AA flashlight with a bolt-action fidget mechanism and a high-CRI Nichia 219F LED. I typically evaluate flashlights purely as <em>tools</em>, but everyday carry gear can also be toys, decorations, and collectables. The Rider RX offers some of each.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.acebeam.com/rider-rx?affiliate=zakreviews-2">Acebeam Rider RX</a> was provided by Acebeam for review. The Rider RX is available from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W2HVR9X?tag=zakwilson01-20">Acebeam's Amazon store</a>. Those are both affiliate links. Coupon code "ZW10" is good for a 10% discount on certain products at Acebeam.com.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0012.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Acebeam Rider RX is a 14500/AA flashlight with a bolt-action fidget mechanism and a high-CRI Nichia 219F LED. I typically evaluate flashlights purely as <em>tools</em>, but everyday carry gear can also be toys, decorations, and collectables. The Rider RX offers some of each.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0017.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0017.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>As a tool, this light is pretty good. The 219F might as well be a 219C; efficiency, tint, and color rendering are all very similar, which is to say decent for an EDC light. The forward-clicky mechanical tailswitch makes changing modes while the light is on more effort than most. The fidget mechanism and clip add weight and bulk, but not a problematic amount for most users. Making the Rider RX a toy does not stop it from being a good tool.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0020.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0020.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0021.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0021.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Both AA and 14500 have good, but different mode spacing as well as effective low-voltage protection. For AA, alkaline, NiMH rechargeable, or lithium disposable can be used, with NiMH being recommended for best performance. With 14500 Li-ion, both protected and unprotected cells can be used safely, but a button top is required. My biggest complaint is that output isn't regulated on 14500, and decreases as the battery drains.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0011.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Whether the Rider RX is suitable as a toy, decoration, or collectable is entirely subjective. I don't find the fidget action especially entertaining or satisfying, but I've read others say they do. I do find the appearance attractive, and six options for colors and materials for the outer sleeve provides a reason some buyers may be inclined to own more than one.</p>
<p>The Rider RX is <strong>conditionally recommended</strong>. The condition is that the buyer finds value in one of its non-tool aspects.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0015.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0015.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0019.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0019.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x14500 / 1xAA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Nichia 219F</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>5299K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>90.6</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output (14500 battery)</td>
<td>619lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (14500 battery)</td>
<td>92m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output (AA battery)</td>
<td>216lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw (AA battery)</td>
<td>51m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>81lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>430lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>97 lm/W</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>3.06</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>96mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>19mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>61g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>82g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>None (Included battery has USB-C)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes, 2.6V (Li-ion)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>None</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Approximate price</td>
<td>$50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★☆☆ (conditionally recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Multiple color/material options</li>
<li>Good support for different battery chemistries.</li>
<li>Several attractive color/material options are offered for the outer sleeve</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Sub-lumen mode is only available with AA</li>
<li>Output is unregulated with 14500</li>
<li>Flat-top cells do not make contact</li>
<li>Not very efficient</li>
</ul>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0010.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0010.jpg" /></a></p>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The Rider RX is offered in aluminum with a steel outer tube in silver, grey, rainbow, and blue. It is also offered with a titanium outer tube with a bead blasted finish and an aluminum outer tube with black anodization. This is the steel, silver version. </p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The Rider RX includes a 14500 battery with USB-C charging, USB A-C cable, lanyard, and spare O-rings.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The user interface is a forward-clicky tailswitch with off-time memory.</p>
<p>That means a half-press turns on the light momentarily and a full-press locks it on until fully pressed and released to turn it off. Off-time memory means turning the light off for a short time (half a second or so) and turning it back on will change modes, but it will return to the same mode if turned back on after a longer time.</p>
<p>There is no way to lock out the light completely, but extending the head from the barrel shields the switch, making it hard to press accidentally.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<h3>14500 battery</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Ultra-Low</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>70</td>
<td>61</td>
<td>27</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>280</td>
<td>316</td>
<td>62</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>650</td>
<td>691</td>
<td>92</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>61</td>
<td>72 minutes</td>
<td>194 minutes</td>
<td>820 minutes</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>316</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>77</td>
<td>77</td>
<td>85</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>691</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>83</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider max 14500 fan.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider max 14500 fan.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider 14500 med.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider 14500 med.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider 14500 low.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider 14500 low.png" /></a></p>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Ultra-Low</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>80</td>
<td>81</td>
<td>32</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>216</td>
<td>51</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>81</td>
<td>122 minutes</td>
<td>122 minutes</td>
<td>128 minutes</td>
<td>75</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>216</td>
<td>7 minutes</td>
<td>7 minutes</td>
<td>126 minutes</td>
<td>86</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider Eneloop high.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider Eneloop high.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider Eneloop med.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/Rider Eneloop med.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer on Mid mode with a 14500 battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>5299K</td>
<td>0.001472 (slightly green)</td>
<td>90.6</td>
<td>62.0</td>
<td>77.4</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>I'm comparing the Zebralight SC64c LE for reference. That light is not a direct competitor to the Rider RX, as it's considerably more expensive and uses a larger battery. It is, however a staple in my reviews.</p>
<p>Rider RX vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0001_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0001_01.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0002_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0002_01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>AA, 14500, SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0008.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0007.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0007.jpg" /><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/zl1.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/zl1.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0004.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0004.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0003.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/rider-rx/zl2.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/zl2.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>Both 14500 Li-ion and AA NiMH batteries are well-supported. AA Alkaline can be used in an emergency with reduced runtimes in higher modes. Only button-top 14500s make contact, but there's low voltage protection for both Li-ion and NiMH so use of unprotected cells is safe.</p>
<p>The included 14500 battery has a competitive capacity of 950 mAh and charges in about 3 hours from a USB-A -> USB-C connection. It does not comply with the USB-C standard and cannot charge from a USB-C -> USB-C connection, including many popular smartphone power supplies.</p>
<h2>Size and ergonomics</h2>
<p>While not a large light, the Rider RX is longer than most of its immediate competition. It's comfortable enough to carry and use, though I'd like some more texture in wet conditions or when wearing gloves.</p>
<p>Zebralight SC64c LE, Skilhunt M150, Olight i5T, Acebeam Rider RX, Skilhunt E2A, Thrunite T10 II</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>I found the fidget action a little awkward to use, which led to an inadvertant drop test from higher than the rated 1 meter onto concrete. The lens took a little damage, but the light continues to function.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0018.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0018.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/rider-rx/0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/rider-rx/0014.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>This is not an easy light to open, though I've read some people have managed to disassemble the head. Once done, the usual array of 3535 size LEDs such as the Nichia 519A and Luminus SST-20 can be used.</p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Spring Equinox 20222022-03-20T00:00:00+00:002022-03-20T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2022-03-20:/arbitrary-list-2022-1.html<p>Happy Spring Equinox! This is the perfect day to pick a new flashlight, and this list may include the best flashlight for you (there is no objective best).</p><p>Happy Equinox!</p>
<p>What's this? A new list already? Things change quickly these days, so twice a year didn't seem like enough. In honor of Spring Equinox for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/h04/P1270591.jpg">.</a></p>
<p>There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. I have two options for that now: This version of the list has affiliate links, and I've set up a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">tip jar</a>. Please don't feel obligated to use either; the list is also <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/rls1qk/arbitrary_list_of_popular_lights_winter_solstice/">on reddit</a> without affiliate links.</p>
<p>Where possible, dealers I have affilate links for are linked here. Sometimes the manufacturer offers good deals through direct orders, sometimes vendors have the best prices. There are <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/index#wiki_coupon_codes">coupon codes available</a> that apply to many of the lights listed. Use my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" for 10% off at <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com?ref=9">Killzone Flashlights</a></p>
<p>A global supply chain disription continues to impact the flashlight industry (and many others), so some popular lights are temporarily or permanently unavailable. In many cases, this list reflects current availability.</p>
<h1>The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the A4, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details. In this section, I've linked good places to buy the lights rather than the manufacturer.</p>
<p>This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a <strong>general-use light</strong> for <strong>$30</strong>. USB-C charging, and it now has proper C-to-C support. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MT3TZNW?tag=zakwilson01-20/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D LED option - a <strong>smaller everyday carry light</strong> with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. <strong>$52</strong> on Amazon, but make sure it's the high CRI version as the other options have poor color quality. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a>, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld <strong>tactical light</strong> or <strong>duty light</strong>. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). <strong>$77</strong> with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery. </li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/collections/headlamps/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 RC</a> with high-CRI LH351D - a <strong>headlamp</strong>, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. <strong>$58</strong> with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFDS8ZS?tag=zakwilson01-20/">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - a <strong>larger high-output light</strong> with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$67</strong> price tag. It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V4Z7X6N?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult V6 SST70</a> - a <strong>long-range light</strong> able to provide fairly good visibility at 350m and detect large objects at twice that. This one doesn't have good color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and USB-C charging. Usually <strong>$75</strong>, but a 15% off coupon was shown at the time this list was published.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own, use, and buy. They score well on most measures flashlight nerds care about while also being beginner-friendly.</p>
<h1>About specs and considerations</h1>
<h2>Read more about things flashlight enthusiasts look for <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/specs">in the wiki</a>.</h2>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Nitecore Tube 2.0</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$10</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/collections/keychain-flashlight/products/a1x?variant=31983168192615">Rovyvon Aurora A1x</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 17g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-flashlight-330-lumens-max-small-light-with-10180-battery-included">Sofirn SC01</a> - neutral tint, 95 CRI, 330 lumen advertised max, which is sure to drop quickly because this runs on a tiny, but standardized and removable 10180 battery, which can be charged inside the light through a micro-USB port. This seems to be a continuation of the Cooyoo Quantum design that inspired many rebrands and derivatives. Currently only offered in stainless steel, but aluminum may make a return. <strong>$20</strong> from Sofirn's site, shipped from China. $23, <a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/ship-from-usa-sofirn-sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-flashlight-330-lumens-max-small-light-with-10180-battery-included">shipped from the USA</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8C8TJP?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt E3A</a> - a simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch and a high CRI option (recommended) for <strong>$12</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options. <strong>$26</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.reylight.net/product/reylight-pineapple-mini-aluminum/">Reylight Pineapple Mini</a> - a premium 1xAAA (or 1x10440 Li-ion) light with a tailswitch and Nichia 219B sw45k LED. That LED has excellent color rendering along with a rosy tint many enthusiasts love. <strong>$30</strong> for aluminum, more for titanium, mokume, etc....</li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D - the author's favorite sub-18650 EDC light. The M150 has a sideswitch with shortcuts, magnetic charging, and a magnetic tailcap. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$44</strong> with battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-e2a?ref=9">Skilhunt E2A</a> with high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.zebralight.com/SC53w-AA-Neutral-White-Flashlight_p_202.html">Zebralight SC53w</a> - 80 CRI, neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. AA only. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e05-pocket-ultra-throw-led-flashlight/">Manker E05</a> - for those who want over 200m of throw (when used with a 14500 Li-ion battery) in 20mm diameter. Big throw in a small package is this pony's only trick. <strong>$26</strong> in aluminum, or <strong>$50</strong> in titanium.</li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc21-mini-flashlight-rechargeable-max-1000-high-lumens-keychain-flashlight-super-bright?variant=ff0e7fda-98e9-41b2-a983-0087f6da7b00">Sofirn SC21</a> - a very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. 4000K (afternoon sunlight) and 2700K (incandescent-like) are also offered. <strong>$25</strong> without battery or <strong>$27</strong> with shipped from China. <strong>$35</strong> on Amazon.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t1-magnetic-tailcap-pocket-flashlight/">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Eagletac DX3B Mk II</a> - for those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging IlluminationGear has what looks to be a dealer exclusive option with an Osram White Flat LED for over 300m throw. Pricey at <strong>$95</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp31v20-powerful-1200-lumens-flashlight-with-xpl-hi-or-lh351d-5000k-tactical-torch-dual-switch?variant=530952a9-c192-491a-8585-23f4f011d472">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - a dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED for the very budget price of <strong>$29</strong> with battery and charger shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m200-new-editable-led-flashlight?ref=9">Skilhunt M200</a> (high-CRI LH351D option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$43</strong> without a battery, <strong>$51</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$30</strong>. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l17">Acebeam L17</a> - a compact thrower more suited to a jacket pocket than everyday carry like the rest of these but still quite compact for its 800m throw. This is unconventional in having its e-switch on the end of the tailcap. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Fenix PD32 v2</a> - for those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone special edition) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). <strong>$67</strong> by itself, or <strong>$77</strong> with a battery.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-hs05-1000lm-mini-headlamp-with-lh351d-led-dual-way-clip-with-magnetic-tailcap-powered-by-14500-battery">Sofirn HS05</a> - AA or 14500 battery, tailcap magnet, high-CRI LH351D LED. There aren't many reviews out yet, but this has a lot going for it for <strong>$24</strong> without a battery and <strong>$26</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04r-mini-rc-high-cri-5000k-samsung-lh351d?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 Mini RC</a> - 18350 battery and USB-magnetic charging with my favorite headband in the industry and optional high-CRI LH351D. This offers a floody TIR, less floody reflector (R model) or reflector with flippable diffuser (F model) for <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25">Nitecore NU25</a> - the other ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h17?ref=9">Acebeam H17</a> - right-angle form factor, three emitters, high-CRI, and an 18350 battery. I think most will prefer the Nichia 219C's tint. Expensive at <strong>$70</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. These now offer a high-CRI LH351D option, making it considerably more competitive. <strong>$44</strong>, or <strong>$52</strong> for the RC version with magnetic charging. Battery not included by default, but Skilhunt and dealers usually add one for less than $10.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0912NSJS5?tag=zakwilson01-20/">Sofirn SP40</a> (with LH351D) - high CRI, USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The -A model uses a TIR optic, but a lack of reviews has me holding off on recommending that yet. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A</a> - 1x18650 right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "reddit" for a discount. <strong>$90</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SG39G1D?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos HD20</a> - 21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor. <strong>$49</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Fenix HP30R v2</a> - 2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive at <strong>$220</strong>, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">Acebeam L35</a> - Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch. <strong>$90</strong> from Killzone.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Eagletac GX30L2-R</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l18?ref=9">Acebeam L18</a> - this is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light. <strong>$85</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Flashlight-TC20-V2-Rechargeable/dp/B091CGS2VY?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC20 v2</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 208 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong> typically, but often <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Neutral-Brightest/dp/B07KFDS8ZS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging, USB powerbank. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not <em>always</em>. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. <strong>$47</strong> from Sofirn's site without batteries, <strong>$56</strong> with, more from Amazon.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum?variant=40411891597496&ref=9">Acebeam E70 FC40</a> - a compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm. <strong>$80</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-if22a-rechargeable-spotlight-flashlight-powerful-sft40-led-max-2100-lumens-long-beam-distance-light-with-power-bank-function?scm=spz.search&ssp=spz&spm=..search.search_1.1&variant=2ca47f77-2e59-4227-9721-68f1b27c51fb">Sofirn IF22A</a> - 21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function. Battery included for <strong>$40</strong> shipped from China, $2 more with a bundled battery.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Manker U22 III</a> - 21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. This has a more efficient driver than the IF22A, so it should handle sustained operation better. <strong>$74</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - choice of LEDs, 21700 battery, USB-C, and an advanced, configurable user interface. Osram W1 for most throw, Osraw W2 for some more output at a cost of heat and battery life, SBT90 for a lot of output, a lot of heat, $50 extra, and not much battery life. XHP35 HI for a more balanced light with better color rendering and more stable output as the battery drains. This is an enthusiast-oriented light, but it gets a place here because Illumn sells it, so it's easy to buy if you're in the US. <strong>$100</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k30-gt?ref=9">Acebeam K30GT</a> - a hybrid, but leaning toward the throw side of things with 1km. 5500 lumens, but not for long due to heat. 3x18650. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.acebeam.com/k65gt">Acebeam K65GT</a> - 1.6km and 6500lm, but much bigger than the K30GT with 4x18650 batteries, giving it the ability to say bright longer without overheating. <strong>$240</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002647258079.html">Convoy 4x18A SBT90</a> - a budget K65GT with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentlight.com/catalog/product/view/id/24/s/imalent-ms18-led-flashlight-cree-xhp70-2-led-max100000-lumens-intelligent-charging-for-outdoor-search-light/">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. A warm white option was added at some point, and I'd probably go with that if I was getting one. <strong>$560</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-l116t-ra-cri95-super-slim-led-light-panel-3300k-5600k-led-video-light-panel-lcd-display-screen-color-temperature-and-brightness-can-be-adjusted-with-np-f550-lithium-battery">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-vl-200-ii-video-led-light-bi-color-3300k-5600k-30w-dimmable-led-video-light-panel-cri95-daylight-balanced-portable-continuous-lamp-with-wireless-remote-control-dc-adapter">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. Radio-based remote control. <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Fenix WF30RE</a> - the closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-blf-lt1-rechargeable-lantern-with-power-bank-function-adjustable-color-temperature-super-long-working-time">Sofirn BLF LT1</a> - 4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality on newer models. <strong>$66</strong> from Sofirn's site without batteries.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/fw3a/">Lumintop FW3A</a> - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently <strong>five</strong> LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C <em>may</em> have more pleasant tint. <strong>Caution</strong>: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. Build quality and reliability may be a bit questionable, but these pack in a lot of features for the money. Several larger versions with higher output exist, but the original still makes the most sense to this list's maintainer. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/products/lumintop-fw3x-2800-lumens-edc-flashlight-with-lume1-driver-and-aux-led-146">Lumintop FW3X</a> - a fancy FW3A with a buck/boost circuit for efficiency and stability in lower modes and colored aux LEDs. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2022 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Emisar D4v2 channel switching</a> - the above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This is almost a tail-e-switch D4, but it uses a variable linear driver that provides a bit better efficiency and more stable output as the battery drains as well as allowing brightness adjustment without PWM and enabling the use of ultra-low-voltage LEDs like the Nichia E21A. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. SST-20 4000K would probably still be my pick here because the E21A doesn't seem to play all that well with the Carclo quad optics. <strong>$55</strong> As with the D4, there's a channel switching version for <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003914620098.html">Convoy S2+/519A</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. The new Nichia 519A will probably satisfy the most people with fairly high output, a balanced beam profile, and color rendering that's amazingly close to sunlight even compared to other high-CRI LEDs. Other popular options include the throwy Luminus SST-20 and rosy-tinted Nichia 219B. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$17</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-dm11-1-21700-middle-range-thrower.html">Noctigon DM11 (boost driver)</a> - 1x21700 - advertised as a "middle range thrower", I'd describe it more as a throwy general-purpose light with about 1600lm and 380m throw from the Nichia B35A (with <em>excellent</em> color rendering) or Cree XHP35 HI (a bit more throw). With the boost driver, the DM11 has stable output at most levels, good performance in the cold, and more efficience in medium and low modes than many enthusiast lights. Many color temperatures are offered with the B35A, and RGB aux LEDs provide a colorful accent (or battery voltage monitor) under the TIR optic. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-dm11-1-21700-middle-range-thrower.html">Noctigon DM11 (linear driver)</a> - 1x21700 middle-range thrower with a bit over 700m FL1 throw using Osram Boost series or Luminus SFT40 LEDs, all in cool white. Red, green or blue main Osram emitters are available as well, along with SST20, SST40, XP-L HI and likely anything else that runs at 3 volts by request. <strong>$60</strong> or <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - Do you miss the Emisar D1? This is a jacket pocket light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. As with the DM11 (linear), several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$21</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Convoy M21C FC40</a> - 1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the "crumpled" reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$109</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://usa.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SFT40-2200lm-1200m-SST40-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Long-Range-Strong-Search-Torch-p-1420116.html?imageAb=1&rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6313910&cur_warehouse=CN&akmClientCountry=America&akmClientCountry=America">Astrolux FT03 SFT-40</a> FET driver, SFT-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 1200m throw and 2220 lumens advertised, which seems realistic. <strong>54</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP35 HI. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$100</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01-Mini-7-SST20-5500LM-CRI95-Type-C-Rechargeable-Campact-EDC-Flashlight-26650-21700-18650-p-1560142.html?rmmds=buy&ID=5303946272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux MF01 Mini</a> - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port. <strong>$65</strong>, but check for active discounts</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Convoy L21B SFT40</a> - 1x21700, 1258m throw, <strong>$36</strong>. Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x that price? It wasn't long ago.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002650549314.html">Convoy S11 FC40</a> - a basic 26650 tube light with a tailswitch, but the big news is the GT-FC40 LED, a large, floody, <em>very</em> high CRI LED. It's pretty, and this is a way to experience it for <strong>$30</strong>, but be warned this light lacks an effective temperature control mechanism and is prone to overheating.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/lumintop-blf-gt90-7000-lumens-high-intensity-flashlight-sbt90-p0061.html">BLF GT90</a> - A huge 8x18650 flashlight with a Luminus SBT-90.2 for over 7000 lumens and 2700m throw claimed, but that's going to be limited by heat and power. For sustainable performance, the original may have the advantage. For short bursts, this will be most impressive. <strong>400</strong>, but look for discounts</li>
</ul>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Winter Solstice 20212021-12-21T00:00:00+00:002021-12-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-12-21:/arbitrary-list-2021-2.html<p>Happy Winter Solstice! This is the perfect day to pick a new flashlight, and this list may include the best flashlight for you (there is no objective best).</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Winter Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight if you live north of the Equator<a href="https://zakreviews.com/static/photos/e70/20211109_0072.jpg">.</a></p>
<p>There is no best flashlight, so this is an amalgamation of what enthusiasts have been buying and recommending to others lately along with the author's arbitrary preferences and biases. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Some people have asked if they can give me kickbacks or gratuities for maintaining the list. I have two options for that now: This version of the list has affiliate links, and I've set up a <a href="https://ko-fi.com/zakreviews">tip jar</a>. Please don't feel obligated to use either; the list is also <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/rls1qk/arbitrary_list_of_popular_lights_winter_solstice/">on reddit</a> without affiliate links.</p>
<p>Where possible, dealers I have affilate links for are linked here. Sometimes the manufacturer offers good deals through direct orders, sometimes vendors have the best prices. There are <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/index#wiki_coupon_codes">coupon codes available</a> that apply to many of the lights listed. Use my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" for 10% off at <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com?ref=9">Killzone Flashlights</a></p>
<p>There is a global supply chain disruption as 2021 comes to an end, so some popular lights are temporarily or permanently unavailable. In many cases, this list reflects current availability.</p>
<h1>The Quick List</h1>
<h3>If you're not interested in flashlights as a hobby, you should probably just get one of these</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the A4, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details. In this section, I've linked good places to buy the lights rather than the manufacturer.</p>
<p>This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a <strong>general-use light</strong> for <strong>$30</strong>. USB-C charging, and it now has proper C-to-C support. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-5000k-m150-v2?ref=9">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D LED option - a <strong>smaller everyday carry light</strong> with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. <strong>$44</strong> with coupon code "reddit", and sometimes available on Amazon, but not always with the right LED, which is important since the color and beam quality of the other options is poor. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/collections/headlamps/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 RC</a> with high-CRI LH351D - a <strong>headlamp</strong>, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. <strong>$58</strong> with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".</li>
<li><a href="https://mohrlumens.com/collections/flashlights/products/sofirn-sp36-blf-90-cri-anduril">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - a <strong>larger high-output light</strong> with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$60</strong> price tag. It has USB-C (A-to-C only) charging and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V4Z7X6N?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult V6 SST70</a> - a <strong>long-range light</strong> able to provide fairly good visibility at 350m and detect large objects at twice that. This one doesn't have good color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and USB-C charging. Usually <strong>$75</strong>, but a 15% off coupon was shown at the time this list was published.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own, use, and buy. They score well on most measures flashlight nerds care about while also being beginner-friendly.</p>
<h1>About specs and considerations</h1>
<h2>Read more about things flashlight enthusiasts look for <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/specs">in the wiki</a>.</h2>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Nitecore Tube 2.0</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$10</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/collections/keychain-flashlight/products/a1x?variant=31983168192615">Rovyvon Aurora A1x</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 17g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-flashlight-330-lumens-max-small-light-with-10180-battery-included">Sofirn SC01</a> - neutral tint, 95 CRI, 330 lumen advertised max, which is sure to drop quickly because this runs on a tiny, but standardized and removable 10180 battery, which can be charged inside the light through a micro-USB port. This seems to be a continuation of the Cooyoo Quantum design that inspired many rebrands and derivatives. Currently only offered in stainless steel, but aluminum may make a return. <strong>$20</strong> from Sofirn's site, shipped from China. $23, <a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/ship-from-usa-sofirn-sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-flashlight-330-lumens-max-small-light-with-10180-battery-included">shipped from the USA</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://wurkkos.com/products/wk01-penlight-aaa-mini-flashlight-sst20-4000k-6000k-led-flashlight-brown?VariantsId=10021">Wurkkos WK01</a> - a basic 1xAAA light with 95 CRI (in the 4000K version) and a tailswitch. <strong>$13</strong>, or a bit more from Amazon</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B86BNYL?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt E3A</a> - a simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch for <strong>$12</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://wurkkos.com/products/wk02-penlight-2aaa-mini-flashlight-300lm-sst20-4000k-6000k-black?VariantsId=10023">Wurkkos WK02</a> - a basic 2xAAA light with 95 CRI (in the 4000K version) and a tailswitch. <strong>$14</strong>, or a bit more from Amazon</li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. It's here because the light from the 219B is very clean even compared to other high-CRI options. <strong>$26</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-5000k-m150-v2?ref=9">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D - this is the AA/14500 version of the M200, without the mode customization feature. It's only offered bundled with a 14500. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$44</strong> with battery</li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/e2a-14500-aa-600-lumens-compact-pocket-edc-mini-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt E2A</a> with high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC53c-AA-Neutral-White-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_201.html">Zebralight SC53c</a> - 90+ CRI, warm-neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. AA only. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e05-pocket-ultra-throw-led-flashlight/">Manker E05</a> - for those who want over 200m of throw (when used with a 14500 Li-ion battery) in 20mm diameter. Big throw in a small package is this pony's only trick. <strong>$26</strong> in aluminum, or <strong>$50</strong> in titanium.</li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sc21-mini-flashlight-rechargeable-max-1000-high-lumens-keychain-flashlight-super-bright?variant=ff0e7fda-98e9-41b2-a983-0087f6da7b00">Sofirn SC21</a> - a very small 16340-only e-switch light with USB-C and a magnet. The LH351D LED is a sunlight-like 5000K and 90 CRI for good color quality. <strong>$25</strong> without battery or <strong>$27</strong> with shipped from China. <strong>$35</strong> on Amazon.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t1-magnetic-tailcap-pocket-flashlight/">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/dx3b-mkii/">Eagletac DX3B Mk II</a> - for those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging IlluminationGear has what looks to be a dealer exclusive option with an Osram White Flat LED for over 300m throw. Pricey at <strong>$95</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp31v20-powerful-1200-lumens-flashlight-with-xpl-hi-or-lh351d-5000k-tactical-torch-dual-switch?variant=530952a9-c192-491a-8585-23f4f011d472">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - a dual-switch light where a tailswitch controls power and a sideswitch changes brightness. This style used to be very popular, but has fallen out of favor with enthusiasts. It makes a great loaner because explaining its operation takes two seconds. The SP31 has a reasonably efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED for the very budget price of <strong>$27</strong> with battery and charger shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/tc15-black">Thrunite TC15</a> - high output and throw from a 25mm tube light with USB charging, though color quality may not be the best. <strong>$56</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-m200-new-editable-led-flashlight?ref=9">Skilhunt M200</a> (high-CRI LH351D option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$43</strong> without a battery, <strong>$51</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$30</strong>. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.acebeam.com/l17">Acebeam L17</a> - a compact thrower more suited to a jacket pocket than everyday carry like the rest of these but still quite compact for its 800m throw. This is unconventional in having its e-switch on the end of the tailcap. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=149">Fenix PD32 v2</a> - for those who want a lot of throw without a flared head, the PD32 v2 manages almost 400m FL1 throw with a straight 25mm tube shape. It doesn't have good color rendering, sub-lumen modes, onboard charging, or useful shortcuts in its user interface, but it sure is throwy. <strong>$60</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-hs05-1000lm-mini-headlamp-with-lh351d-led-dual-way-clip-with-magnetic-tailcap-powered-by-14500-battery">Sofirn HS05</a> - AA or 14500 battery, tailcap magnet, high-CRI LH351D LED. There aren't many reviews out yet, but this has a lot going for it for <strong>$22</strong> without a battery and <strong>$25</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e02-ii-420-lumens-aaa-10440-edc-flashlight-with-magnetic-tail-reversible-clip/">Manker E02 II</a> - 1xAAA or 1x10440 makes this the smallest on the list in this class. At 21g without battery and headband, I suspect even /r/ultralight will tolerate this, and the 95 CRI SST-20 (only in the neutral white option), users will be able to see detail. A magnetic tailcap expands the utility. <strong>$23</strong>, but note a headband is not included; that costs an extra $7.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e03h-ii-multi-purpose-pocket-edc-flashlight/">Manker E03H II</a> - the above, but AA/14500 and with sliding diffusers, including red, which some people insist on. Again go for the neutral white, high-CRI option. <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04r-mini-rc-high-cri-5000k-samsung-lh351d?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 Mini RC</a> - 18350 battery and USB-magnetic charging with my favorite headband in the industry and optional high-CRI LH351D. This offers a floody TIR, less floody reflector (R model) or reflector with flippable diffuser (F model) for <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25">Nitecore NU25</a> - the other ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h17?ref=9">Acebeam H17</a> - right-angle form factor, three emitters, high-CRI, and an 18350 battery. I think most will prefer the Nichia 219C's tint. <strong>$60</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?_pos=1&_sid=c38c093a3&_ss=r">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. These now offer a high-CRI LH351D option, making it considerably more competitive. <strong>$44</strong>, or <strong>$52</strong> for the RC version with magnetic charging. Battery not included by default, but Skilhunt and dealers usually add one for less than $10.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0912NSJS5/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP40</a> (with LH351D) - high CRI, USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. There's even an 18350 tube to make it smaller, but only the 18650 battery is included. The -A model uses a TIR optic, but a lack of reviews has me holding off on recommending that yet. The other options on the list have advantages, but you'll pay for them. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/panda-2m-cri/">YLP Panda 2M CRI</a> - 1x18650 dedicated headlamp, with high-CRI neutral white LH351Ds. Not the most efficient, but the light quality is great and with an 18650 battery, most people won't mind. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A</a> - 1x18650 right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. Try coupon code "reddit" for a discount. <strong>$90</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K2SHSNJ/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos HD20</a> - 21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor. </li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=175">Fenix HP30R v2</a> - 2x21700 batteries (included) in a remote box that can be attached to the headband on worn on a belt, an efficient driver, and both spot and flood options make for a headlamp that can run all night at 1000 lumens with a peak output of 3000. No ultra-low modes here; that's not what this is for. The battery box can serve as a USB powerbank and charges via USB-C. Wearing the batteries under clothing makes it effectively immune to cold. Expensive at <strong>$220</strong>, though there's usually a 20% off code available for Fenix products.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">Acebeam L35</a> - Very high output of 5000 lumens from a single 21700 battery, though expect it to thermal throttle quickly to about 1300. Tailswitch is max-only, with other modes on the sideswitch. <strong>$90</strong> from Killzone, who still has the longer-throwing Latticepower LED option.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/index.php/product/gx30l2-r-mkii/">Eagletac GX30L2-R</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Onboard charging. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected 18650s recommended. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l18?ref=9">Acebeam L18</a> - this is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light. <strong>$70</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Flashlight-TC20-V2-Rechargeable/dp/B091CGS2VY?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC20 v2</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 180 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB-C charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. Over 4000 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong> typically, but often <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp36-blf-anduril-5650-lumen-rechargeable-flashlight-lh351d-led-powered-by-batteries-choose-5000k-4000k-2700k?scm=spz.search&ssp=spz&spm=..search.search_1.2&variant=f950fde1-e407-47ab-9fcf-50ba6d340b76">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not <em>always</em>. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. <strong>$42</strong> from Sofirn's site without batteries, <strong>$52</strong> with, more from Amazon.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-e70-aluminum?variant=40411891597496&ref=9">Acebeam E70 FC40</a> - a compact option with spectacular color quality (when the FC40 is selected) or excellent efficiency (when the XHP70 is selected). Acebeam's efficient driver helps make up for the LED's inefficiency, and a thermal sensor prevents severe overheating, though it still gets warm. <strong>$80</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G6BQ6YJ?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn IF22A</a> - 21700 battery, about 700m FL1 throw, 2100 lumens, USB-C, and a powerbank function. Battery included for <strong>$49</strong>, a bit less without a battery shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Manker U22 III</a> - 21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. Osram for more throw, SFT40 for a bigger hotspot and brighter spill. This has a more efficient driver than the IF22A, so it should handle sustained operation better. <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.illumn.com/flashlights/emisar-noctigon/noctigon-k1-side-e-switch-21700-usb-c-port-thrower.html">Noctigon K1</a> - choice of LEDs, 21700 battery, USB-C, and an advanced, configurable user interface. Osram W1 for most throw, Osraw W2 for some more output at a cost of heat and battery life, SBT90 for a lot of output, a lot of heat, $50 extra, and not much battery life. This is an enthusiast-oriented light, but it gets a place here because Illumn sells it, so it's easy to buy if you're in the US. <strong>$102</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k30-gt?ref=9">Acebeam K30GT</a> - a hybrid, but leaning toward the throw side of things with 1km. 5500 lumens, but not for long due to heat. 3x18650. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k65-gt?ref=9">Acebeam K65GT</a> - 1.6km and 6500lm, but much bigger than the K30GT with 4x18650 batteries, giving it the ability to say bright longer without overheating. <strong>$240</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://mohrlumens.com/collections/flashlights/products/convoy-4x18a-sbt90-2">Convoy 4x18A SBT90</a> - a budget K65GT with 4x18650, USB-C charging, 5400lm and 1.1km throw. It's prone to overheating, so it's probably best held in a bare hand during operation - if it isn't painful to hold, it's safe for the batteries. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentlight.com/imalent-ms18-led-flashlight-cree-xhp70-2-led-max100000-lumens-intelligent-charging-for-outdoor-search-light.html">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. A warm white option was added at some point, and I'd probably go with that if I was getting one. <strong>$560</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-l116t-ra-cri95-super-slim-led-light-panel-3300k-5600k-led-video-light-panel-lcd-display-screen-color-temperature-and-brightness-can-be-adjusted-with-np-f550-lithium-battery">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-vl-200-ii-video-led-light-bi-color-3300k-5600k-30w-dimmable-led-video-light-panel-cri95-daylight-balanced-portable-continuous-lamp-with-wireless-remote-control-dc-adapter">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. Radio-based remote control. <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Fenix WF30RE</a> - the closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable proprietary battery. The battery has 18650 performance, but 21700 size, and requires a hex key to change, which should only be done in a safe atmosphere. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-blf-lt1-rechargeable-lantern-with-power-bank-function-adjustable-color-temperature-super-long-working-time">Sofirn BLF LT1</a> - 4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality on newer models. <strong>$65</strong> from Sofirn's site without batteries.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/fw3a/">Lumintop FW3A</a> - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently <strong>five</strong> LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C <em>may</em> have more pleasant tint. <strong>Caution</strong>: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. Build quality and reliability may be a bit questionable, but these pack in a lot of features for the money. Several larger versions with higher output exist, but the original still makes the most sense to this list's maintainer. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/products/lumintop-fw3x-2800-lumens-edc-flashlight-with-lume1-driver-and-aux-led-146">Lumintop FW3X</a> - a fancy FW3A with a buck/boost circuit for efficiency and stability in lower modes and colored aux LEDs. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2021 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/tint-ramping-instant-channel-swiching-led-flashlights/new-emisar-d4v2-with-tint-ramping-and-instant-channel-switching.html">Emisar D4v2 channel switching</a> - the above with the option to ramp or switch between two pairs of different LEDs. There are many possibilities to choose from, including different color temperatures, or a flood set and a throw set. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This is almost a tail-e-switch D4, but it uses a variable linear driver that provides a bit better efficiency and more stable output as the battery drains as well as allowing brightness adjustment without PWM and enabling the use of ultra-low-voltage LEDs like the Nichia E21A. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. SST-20 4000K would probably still be my pick here because the E21A doesn't seem to play all that well with the Carclo quad optics. <strong>$55</strong> As with the D4, there's a channel switching version for <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962537117.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2c0f6d6c8d3Uey&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=8bd5503a-49ff-4e28-9f7b-19fe3dd3bfb5">Convoy S2+/219C</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. S2+ linked. S3 is similar, but with a removable steel bezel. S6 has a deeper reflector for a narrower spill and longer throw. The high-CRI Samsung LH351D Nichia 219C and Luminus SST-20 LEDs, in order of most output to most throw, are strongly recommended over the prior options. 219C 4000K will probably make the largest number of people happy. "Body color" is actually drive current. More 7135 chips means more power, which means more output, shorter battery life, and more heat. x6 is a reasonable choice that should never get too hot to hold. x3 or x4 for giving to people who will waste the battery. x8 for max output. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$15</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-dm11-1-21700-middle-range-thrower.html">Noctigon DM11 (boost driver)</a> - 1x21700 - advertised as a "middle range thrower", I'd describe it more as a throwy general-purpose light with about 1600lm and 380m throw from the Nichia B35A (with <em>excellent</em> color rendering) or Cree XHP35 HI (a bit more throw). With the boost driver, the DM11 has stable output at most levels, good performance in the cold, and more efficience in medium and low modes than many enthusiast lights. Many color temperatures are offered with the B35A, and RGB aux LEDs provide a colorful accent (or battery voltage monitor) under the TIR optic. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-dm11-1-21700-middle-range-thrower.html">Noctigon DM11 (linear driver)</a> - 1x21700 middle-range thrower with a bit over 700m FL1 throw using Osram Boost series or Luminus SFT40 LEDs, all in cool white. Red, green or blue main Osram emitters are available as well, along with SST20, SST40, XP-L HI and likely anything else that runs at 3 volts by request. <strong>$60</strong> or <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - Do you miss the Emisar D1? This is a jacket pocket light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. As with the DM11 (linear), several colored and high-CRI otpions are offered as well. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$21</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Convoy M21C FC40</a> - 1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the "crumpled" reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$99</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://usa.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SFT40-2200lm-1200m-SST40-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Long-Range-Strong-Search-Torch-p-1420116.html?imageAb=1&rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6313910&cur_warehouse=CN&akmClientCountry=America&akmClientCountry=America">Astrolux FT03 SFT-40</a> FET driver, SFT-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 1200m throw and 2220 lumens advertised, which seems realistic. <strong>54</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP35 HI. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$100</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01-Mini-7-SST20-5500LM-CRI95-Type-C-Rechargeable-Campact-EDC-Flashlight-26650-21700-18650-p-1560142.html?rmmds=buy&ID=5303946272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux MF01 Mini</a> - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port. <strong>$65</strong>, but check for active discounts</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Convoy L21B SFT40</a> - 1x21700, 1258m throw, <strong>$36</strong>. Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x that price? It wasn't long ago.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002650549314.html">Convoy S11 FC40</a> - a basic 26650 tube light with a tailswitch, but the big news is the GT-FC40 LED, a large, floody, <em>very</em> high CRI LED. It's pretty, and this is a way to experience it for <strong>$30</strong>, but be warned this light lacks an effective temperature control mechanism and is prone to overheating.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/lumintop-blf-gt90-7000-lumens-high-intensity-flashlight-sbt90-p0061.html">BLF GT90</a> - A huge 8x18650 flashlight with a Luminus SBT-90.2 for over 7000 lumens and 2700m throw claimed, but that's going to be limited by heat and power. For sustainable performance, the original may have the advantage. For short bursts, this will be most impressive. <strong>400</strong>, but look for discounts</li>
</ul>
<h1>Edits</h1>
<ul>
<li>Skilhunt M150 restored to its rightful place in the quick list</li>
<li>Throwers section fixed</li>
<li>GX30 link fixed</li>
<li>WF30RE description updated</li>
</ul>New review tool: X-Rite i1Pro Spectrophotometer2021-11-18T00:00:00+00:002021-11-18T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-11-18:/i1pro.html<p>I've acquired a spectrophotometer, which allows me to accurately measure color temperature, tint, color rendering index, and more. In this article, I share measurements for a number of the lights I've reviewed in the past.</p><h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I've wanted a spectrophotometer for quite some time. A spectro-what, you say? A <em>photometer</em> or luxmeter measures the brightness of all the visible light hitting it. A <em>spectro</em>photometer measures the brightness of each of many small slices of the spectrum hitting it, allowing precise characterization of the light. Its major application in the flashlight world is measuring color temperature, tint, and color rendering index.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/i1pro/20211118_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/i1pro/20211118_0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/i1pro/20211118_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/i1pro/20211118_0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Pictures of the instrument itself aren't very interesting; you're probably here for the flashlight measurements.</p>
<h2>Glossary</h2>
<ul>
<li><strong>CCT</strong> - a representation of how blue or yellow/orange a light source looks. Higher is more blue; an incandescent light bulb is about 2700K and midday sunlight is about 5000K. The abbreviation means Correlated Color Temperature and represents how hot an object would have to be to glow the same shade of white.</li>
<li><strong>Duv</strong> - a measure of red/green balance. Positive is green, and negative is red. Zero is pure white. These numbers are very small, with anything over 0.006 in either direction falling outside the ANSI standard for white light.</li>
<li><strong>Ra</strong> - This is the most commonly used and quated measure of color quality in lighting. Often simply referred to as CRI, this is the average color rendering index over eight color samples. </li>
<li><strong>R9</strong> - an extension to CRI not included in the standard average representing accuracy of a deep red sample. LEDs tend to perform poorly here.</li>
<li><strong>R12</strong> - another extension to CRI with a deep blue sample. LEDs also tend to perform poorly here.</li>
</ul>
<p>I have marked <em>unusually bad</em> and <strong>unusually good</strong> numbers.</p>
<h2>Measurements</h2>
<p>All measurements were taken on a reasonable medium mode in the center of the beam, diffused with DC Fix diffusion film.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Flashlight</th>
<th>LED</th>
<th>CCT</th>
<th>Duv</th>
<th>Ra</th>
<th>R9</th>
<th>R12</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/acebeam-e70-fc40.html">Acebeam E70</a></td>
<td>FC40</td>
<td>4893</td>
<td>0.001334</td>
<td><strong>96.2</strong></td>
<td><strong>92.2</strong></td>
<td><strong>71.4</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/thrunite-tc20v2.html">Thrunite TC20 v2</a></td>
<td>XHP70</td>
<td>6176</td>
<td>0.003546</td>
<td><em>69.7</em></td>
<td><em>-37.88</em></td>
<td><em>48.9</em></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/nitecore-t4k.html">Nitecore T4K</a></td>
<td>XP-L2</td>
<td>6148</td>
<td>0.002800</td>
<td>70.8</td>
<td><em>-34.9</em></td>
<td><em>41.5</em></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/olight-warrior-mini-2.html">Olight Warrior Mini 2</a></td>
<td>SST-40</td>
<td>6342</td>
<td><em>0.010385</em></td>
<td><em>68.8</em></td>
<td><em>-55.7</em></td>
<td><em>35.0</em></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/skilhunt-h04f-rc.html">Skilhunt H04F RC</a></td>
<td>LH351D</td>
<td>4502</td>
<td><em>0.009174</em></td>
<td>89.1</td>
<td>55.2</td>
<td><strong>70.0</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/sc64c-le.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a></td>
<td>LH351D</td>
<td>4714</td>
<td>0.003998</td>
<td>90.6</td>
<td>63.4</td>
<td><strong>71.5</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/skilhunt-m150.html">Skilhunt M150</a></td>
<td>LH351D</td>
<td>5013</td>
<td>0.002939</td>
<td>91.9</td>
<td>51.1</td>
<td><strong>73.1</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/nitecore-mh10v2.html">Nitecore MH10 v2</a></td>
<td>XP-L2</td>
<td>6644</td>
<td><strong>0.000757</strong></td>
<td><em>69.9</em></td>
<td><em>-30.4</em></td>
<td><em>46.9</em></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/wizard-nichia-144a.html">Armytek Wizard Pro 144A</a></td>
<td>144A</td>
<td>4557</td>
<td>0.003346</td>
<td>91.4</td>
<td>61.8</td>
<td>69.4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/acebeam-uc15.html">Acebeam UC15</a></td>
<td>219C</td>
<td>4898</td>
<td>0.004198</td>
<td>91.0</td>
<td>68.5</td>
<td>61.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="https://zakreviews.com/acebeam-tk16.html">Acebeam TK16</a></td>
<td>SST-20</td>
<td>4103</td>
<td>0.004425</td>
<td><strong>96.1</strong></td>
<td><strong>93.7</strong></td>
<td><strong>74.1</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>BLF 348</td>
<td>219B</td>
<td>5122</td>
<td>-0.003600</td>
<td><strong>95.5</strong></td>
<td><strong>89.8</strong></td>
<td><strong>71.8</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lumintop FW3A</td>
<td>219B R9080</td>
<td>4703</td>
<td>-0.004997</td>
<td>94.4</td>
<td><strong>90.0</strong></td>
<td><strong>70.8</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Noctigon K1</td>
<td>XHP35 HI</td>
<td>3571</td>
<td><strong>-0.000418</strong></td>
<td>83.2</td>
<td>15.0</td>
<td>67.3</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>Review: Acebeam E70 FC40 High-CRI - Canned Sunlight2021-11-16T00:00:00+00:002021-11-16T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-11-16:/acebeam-e70-fc40.html<p>The Acebeam E70/FC40 is a can of sunlight. This versatile 1x21700 light fits comfortably in a jacket pocket, uncomfortably in a pants pocket, and makes some of the most natural-looking light I've seen from a flashlight.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.acebeam.com/e70-al">Acebeam E70</a> was provided by Acebeam for review. </p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e70/20211109_0072.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211109_0072.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Acebeam E70 is a large everyday carry, or household general-purpose flashlight powered by a 21700 battery and controlled by an electronic tailswitch. I've argued more than once that a 21700 is too much battery for casual carry in a pants pocket, and the E70 has not changed my position. It <em>can</em> be carried in most pants pockets in a pinch though while lights using the thicker 26650 battery cannot. The E70 is at its best carried in a jacket pocket or kept in the center console of a car. A choice of high-output or high-CRI LEDs is available, which should satisfy a wide range of users. I'll always take full color over a few more lumens, and the high-CRI version is tested here.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e70/20211109_0074.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211109_0074.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The E70's design stands visually by using a blue anodized inner battery tube visible through slots cut in the outer tube. I like the visual effect, though the slots can accumulate dust and debris. Functionally, the nested tube design enables an electronic tailswitch with shortcuts without the use of a proprietary battery. Leaf springs on the driver ensure reliable contact with the inner signal tube even if the light is subjected to impact or severe vibration. Acebeam has significant experience with the nested-tube design, and all examples of it I have used have been completely reliable, in contrast to cheaper implementations from other brands.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0069.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0069.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0064.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0064.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Acebeam's use of the Getian FC40 LED is a first from a major brand. It was previously only available in hobbyist-oriented flashlights shipped from China, or as a bare LED that could be installed in a small number of suitable lights. This LED is known for great color quality at high output, though there have been some variations in tint noted in the flashlight community. The tint and color rendering from this example are spectacular. I noticed colors looking better with the E70/FC40 than with lights using the Nichia 144A and Luminus SST-20, which are established favorites for accurate color.</p>
<p>Those traits don't come free, unfortunately; the FC40 is much less efficient than the E70's other LED option, the Cree XHP70.2. I think that's a good trade and a better choice for a high-CRI option than a high-CRI bin of the XHP70.2, as the FC40 produces more pleasant light than any high-CRI Cree product I've seen.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e70/20211109_0070.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211109_0070.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The user interface of the E70 resembles that of other e-switch Acebeams with shortcuts to low, last-used, and strobe. To prevent inadvertent activation, Acebeam has moved the shortcut to last-used to a double-click. I thought I wouldn't like that when I first read about it, but I don't find it objectionable. My only real problem with this decision is that there's no shortcut to turbo; triple-click should do that, not strobe.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>As usual, Acebeam's build quality is very good. Everything is smooth, well-machined, and well-finished. Using the light under water resulted in no signs of water ingress. Performance specs are within a reasonable margin of advertised.</p>
<p>Light quality is excellent, and the beam from the E70 is more even in tint and better looking than some other FC40 lights I've seen reviewed online.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>This is a can of sunlight. If you want a can of sunlight in your jacket pocket, and you should, the E70/FC40 delivers.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e70/20211109_0075.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211109_0075.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>21700</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Getian FC40 4500K 95 CRI</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>4893K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>96.2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>3273 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>208 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>1060 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>106 lm/W @ 549 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>3.09</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>128.3 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>30 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>102 g (without battery)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Waterproofing</td>
<td>IP68 - 2m depth for 30 minutes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>None (battery with USB-C port available)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes, ~2.9V</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>The tint looks just like daytime sunlight</li>
<li>The color rendering is spectacular, to the point that I noticed it being better than other high-CRI flashlights before testing</li>
<li>Acebeam's boost driver seems fairly efficient</li>
<li>The build quality is very good</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>The FC40 is very inefficient</li>
<li>The thermal regulation allows the body of the light to get too hot for comfort</li>
<li>Battery compatibility could be better</li>
<li>There is no shortcut to turbo from off</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The E70 offers a choice of Getian FC40 high-CRI LED in 4500K or Cree XHP70 high-output LED in 5000K or 6500K. It is available in aluminum, copper, brass, stainless steel, and titanium body materials. Titanium offers the choice of stonewashed or rainbow PVD finishes. Steel and titanium models have slightly reduced maximum output for thermal reasons.</p>
<p>This is the aluminum FC40 version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The E70 includes a pouch, lanyard, charging cable, and user manual. A battery is optional.</p>
<p>I would have preferred a holster rather than the included pouch.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0058.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0058.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Ultra-Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5 seconds</td>
<td>lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 5 seconds</td>
<td>Ultra-Low</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Double-click for on, with single-click doing nothing is an unusual user interface selected to prevent accidental activation. I didn't find it difficult to get used to, however I'm disappointed the triple-click shortcut activates strobe, which I do not use, rather than turbo, which I do. There is a mechanical lockout by loosening the head a quarter turn.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Standby current was measured at 146 uA, which is a little high. A 5000 mAh battery would be drained in 4 years. Mechanical lockout does prevent standby drain in the E70, so an E70 stored for emergency use should be locked out.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Candela</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Ultra-Low</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>70</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>47</td>
<td>33</td>
<td>279</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid1</td>
<td>180</td>
<td>236</td>
<td>64</td>
<td>53</td>
<td>709</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid2</td>
<td>420</td>
<td>549</td>
<td>80</td>
<td>82</td>
<td>1697</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>880</td>
<td>1093</td>
<td>116</td>
<td>117</td>
<td>3444</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>2800</td>
<td>3273</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>208</td>
<td>10812</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Mid1</td>
<td>236</td>
<td>431 minutes</td>
<td>431 minutes</td>
<td>492 minutes</td>
<td>104</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid2</td>
<td>549</td>
<td>196 minutes</td>
<td>196 minutes</td>
<td>219 minutes</td>
<td>106</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1093</td>
<td>93 minutes</td>
<td>93 minutes</td>
<td>93 minutes</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>3273</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>83 minutes</td>
<td>88</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Runtimes were marginally shorter than advertised, but outputs were higher. I'm not complaining. I will complain a little about the heat though; the E70 gets uncomfortably hot when allowed to regulate its own temperature. Those with sensitive skin in warm climates should switch to Mid2 manually for long-term use. Regardless of cooling, the E70 will throttle to High after 2 minutes.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/E70 max uncooled Acebeam 5100-94777273525346.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/E70 max uncooled Acebeam 5100-94777273525346.png" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/E70 max fan 50E-102617104236808.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/E70 max fan 50E-102617104236808.png" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e70/E70 high fan 50E-250651790013.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e70/E70 high fan 50E-250651790013.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e70/E70 Mid2 5100-22963490748978.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e70/E70 Mid2 5100-22963490748978.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/e70/E70 Mid1 50E-39146052463747.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/e70/E70 Mid1 50E-39146052463747.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>This is the average of three readings taken on Mid1 from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>4893K</td>
<td>0.001334</td>
<td>96.2</td>
<td>92.2</td>
<td>71.4</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>These are excellent numbers for any LED, and unmatched for anything with so much output from a single package. Of LEDs available in production flashlights, only the Nichia E21A comes close. The most hardcore tint snobs will likely note the Duv is over zero, meaning the tint is technically green of neutral, but this is a very neutral looking LED in reality.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>E70 vs Thrunite TC20v2</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211110_0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211110_0005.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211110_0006.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211110_0006.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>E70 vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211110_0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211110_0005.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211110_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211110_0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>E70 vs Thrunite TC20v2</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0002.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>E70 vs Armytek Wizard Pro 144A</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0002.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>E70 vs Zebralight SC64c LE</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>E70 vs Armytek Wizard Pro 144A</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>E70 vs BLF 348 (with different exposure settings)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The E70 optionally includes an Acebeam 5100 mAh 21700 battery with a USB-C port on it. The battery, unusually can function as a USB powerbank. I'm impressed with the inclusion of such a function, though I do recommend caution when using a Li-ion battery with its terminals exposed to the world despite the battery's short-circuit protection. A C-C cable works to charge the battery, but a C-A adapter is required to power another device as a powerbank. An A-C cable with a female A port is included, allowing charging the battery from an A port or powering USB devices, but third-party C-A adapters also work for that purpose. This cell is 77mm long and will not fit in most older slot charger designs, but a few recent chargers have longer slots.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0061.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0061.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0060.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0060.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Protected 21700 batteries from other brands work reliably provided they can supply at least 10A current. Turbo will trip protected cells with lower ratings. Unprotected, flat-top cells function, but can disconnect and turn off the flashlight if it is shaken. I recommend the use of a spacer in the event unprotected cells are used; rare earth magnets on the end of the battery (negative is safer) work well for this purpose. There's a low-voltage shutoff around 3.0V.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0063.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0063.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0074.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0074.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0070.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0070.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0076.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0076.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The product page says an 18650 battery is "acceptable", but does not mention the fact that it will not make contact without an adapter or spacer. 9mm of magnets made a Sony VTC6 work.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0082.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0082.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0077.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0077.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211115_0080.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211115_0080.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The bezel is screwed on tight, but not glued. Removing it provides access to the reflector and emitter. Suitable replacements include the FC40 in other color temperatures, and various Cree XHP70 variants, though it would make more sense to use the 6-volt XHP70 version of the E70 for that, as running at lower voltage is more efficient.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0011.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/e70/20211116_0012.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/e70/20211116_0012.jpg" /></a></p>Review: Thrunite TC20 v2 - a powerful, utilitarian light2021-09-22T00:00:00+00:002021-09-22T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-09-22:/thrunite-tc20v2.html<p>The Thrunite TC20 v2 is a powerful, efficient general-purpose flashlight with a large battery and USB charging. It includes some minor improvements over the original including more throw and a USB-C port.</p><p>This <a href="https://thrunite.com/tc20-v2-black/">Thrunite TC20 v2</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. The TC20 v2 is also <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Flashlight-TC20-V2-Rechargeable/dp/B091CGS2VY?tag=zakwilson01-20">available on Amazon</a> from Thrunite Direct (affiliate link).</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0011.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Thrunite TC20 v2 is a minor refresh from the original; its body texture is different, and it uses a USB-C port instead of MicroUSB-B. Throw is slightly increased, though the advertised number is <em>lower</em> and now reasonably accurate. If you've read my <a href="/thrunite-tc20">review of v1</a> or you're familiar with that light, there will be no other surprises here.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0015.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0015.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The TC20 v2 is a 1x26650 flashlight with USB-C charging, high sustainable output, and a fairly floody beam pattern intended for general use. The TC20 would be a good handheld light for the house or car as long as it won't need to be used much past 100 meters on a regular basis. The regular price is $90, but it's often discounted to about $65.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The TC20 v2 has a space-efficient body that takes up as much space as the light's features require, and not more. It shares its general look with other current Thrunite products like the T2 and TC15. Oddly, it includes the hex-shaped anti-roll area found on the TC15, but in combination with a head that's wider so no anti-roll functionality is actually present. The side switch is more proud than on pocket-oriented models so it can be felt through gloves.</p>
<p>The emitter is a Cree XHP70.2. Thrunite has wisely used a textured reflector with this emitter to reduce the rainbow appearance of the beam for which it is infamous. The user interface is the older version of Thrunite's usual e-switch design in which a short press is always on/off and there are shortcuts from off directly to the lowest, highest, and last-used modes. I prefer the older version because it's possible to step up from the moonlight mode without turning the light off.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0013.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>No color rendering index is specified, which is typical for the industry, but something I'd like to see all manufacturers improve. CRI helps to show detail and more quickly identify objects. I'd like to see more modes or ramping in a light with such a wide output range, though the modes the TC20 does have look fairly well-spaced.</p>
<p>The USB charging is USB-C, however it's not standards-compliant and requires a USB A-C cable. I'm disappointed to see that on a premium-brand light with a premium price tag. </p>
<p>The design fits the concept well, offering a lot of performance and convenience to a broad audience.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>The TC20 is well made. My only concern with the manufacturing relates to waterproofing. There was a lack of lubrication on the threads and o-rings. Lubrication is important for reliable waterproofing. My contact at Thrunite assures me they're aware this is a problem and that it should be fixed on newly produced lights. The only protection for water ingress through the USB port is a rubber flap; the port is not sealed when the flap is open. A couple spots on the inside of the battery tube were discolored on my sample.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0023.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0023.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0025.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0025.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Like many recent Thrunite products, the TC20 uses an LED that requires more voltage than the battery can provide, so it has a boost driver. A usual effect of using a boost driver is that output does not depend on battery voltage. That wasn't the case with the TC20 in the highest mode with output being reduced enough to notice with the naked eye when the battery was drained to about 40%. I found that adding an extra conductor to each spring in the tailcap significantly improved output on a low battery.</p>
<p>I measured 4518 lumens at 30 seconds, and within a margin of error of the claimed throw. That's the best kind of boring.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>The TC20 v2 is a solid choice for a household utility light. A TC20 and a small number of spare batteries could comfortably handle an extended power outage, and there's more than enough power and runtime for the vast majority of household use cases.</p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x26650</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Cree XHP70.2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>6176K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>69.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sustainable output</td>
<td>1608 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sustainable throw</td>
<td>176 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>4518 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>294 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>208 lm/W @ 359 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>4.8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>119 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>42 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>143 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Environment protection</td>
<td>IPX8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port</td>
<td>Yes - up to medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port without battery</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★☆☆ (conditionally recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Very efficient</li>
<li>Boost driver should result in good low temperature performance</li>
<li>Fast charging</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Low CRI</li>
<li>Noncompliant USB-C</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The TC20 v2 comes in cool or neutral white, and offers multiple body colors including black, tan, and grey. This is the cool white, black version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TC20 v2 includes a 26650 battery, USB A-C cable, lanyard, holster, spare switch seal, spare USB covers, and spare O-rings.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0029.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0029.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The holster's belt loop is sewn on and does not offer a snap or velcro to attach to MOLLE webbing. I wish it did.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0031.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0031.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>last-used (of low, medium, or high)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (except max)</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>hold</td>
<td>cycle low/medium/high</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Unscrewing the head of the light a quarter turn locks out operation and eliminates standby power consumption. Unscrewing the tailcap does not have this effect.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters, diffused)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.6</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>25</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>320</td>
<td>359</td>
<td>84</td>
<td>82</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1853</td>
<td>2111</td>
<td>201</td>
<td>202</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>4068</td>
<td>4518</td>
<td>299</td>
<td>294</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>> 6 years</td>
<td>86 ua</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Ultralow</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3 months</td>
<td>2.6</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4 days</td>
<td>48.5</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>359</td>
<td>10 hours</td>
<td>10 hours</td>
<td>10 hours</td>
<td>525</td>
<td>208</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>2111</td>
<td>78 min</td>
<td>81 min</td>
<td>81 min</td>
<td>2400</td>
<td>161</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>4518</td>
<td>3 min</td>
<td>3 min</td>
<td>102 min</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>185</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>6176K</td>
<td>0.003546 (moderate green)</td>
<td>69.7</td>
<td>-37.88</td>
<td>48.9</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>TC20 vs Zebralight SC64c LE (LH351D 4000K) vs Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia (144A 4500K)</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0164.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0164.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0160.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0160.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0161.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0161.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0202.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0202.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0196.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0196.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0197.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210827_0197.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The TC20 v2 uses a single standard 26650 battery. The included battery is protected and tested above rated capacity on my analyzing charger, but an unprotected 26650 will work as well. Charging is via a USB-C port, which does not comply with the USB-C standard and requires an A-C cable to charge. With a suitable (2.1A or higher) USB power supply, charging takes about 3 hours.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210810_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210810_0001.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0019.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0019.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0017.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210919_0017.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The bezel screws off easily, allowing removal of the reflector and access to the MCPCB. Any XHP70 or XHP70.2 should work, though unlike the T2 the TC20 runs at 6V and cannot use the increasingly popular 12V Getian FC40. A 6V XHP50.2 or Nichia 144A on a different MCPCB might also work in the TC20 v2.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/tc20v2/20210922_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/tc20v2/20210922_0002.jpg" /></a></p>Review: Nitecore T4K - a 4000 lumen "keychain" light2021-09-19T00:00:00+00:002021-09-19T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-09-19:/nitecore-t4k.html<p>The Nitecore T4K is a compact light with a keychain attachment, USB-C charging and a 4000 lumen burst mode, but is it practical?</p><p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0003.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0003.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>This <a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/t4k">Nitecore T4K</a> was provided by Nitecore for review. </p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>I find it useful when evaluating everyday carry gear to consider whether it's a tool, toy, decoration, or collectible. Most flashlights I review are unambiguously <em>tools</em>. The T4K is primarily a <em>toy</em>. That's not a comment on its quality, but that its main distinguishing characteristic is a 4000 lumen burst mode that lasts 10 seconds. The T4K is for showing off to friends and bringing joy to the user more than it is for providing practical illumination for some task.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/P1280584.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/P1280584.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0005.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0005.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Flashlights with significant toy elements such as the Emisar D4 and Lumintop FW3A have been very popular with the enthusiast community, but the T4K has a non-removable battery and a regular price of $90. It also lacks the selection of LEDs offered in enthusiast lights. The market for the T4K is therefore people who want an impressive toy flashlight, but aren't flashlight enthusiasts, and aren't especially price-sensitive.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>Nitecore calls the T4K a keychain light. I don't like <em>anything</em> on my keychain that doesn't absolutely have to be there, so I'm not the best at evaluating that claim, but the T4K is considerably larger than most keychain lights. I suspect most people will prefer to carry it with the pocket clip, which carries near flush, and is oriented bezel-up for potential hat mounting. A quick-release keyring mount is located on the tail of the light.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/t4k/P1280581.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/t4k/P1280581.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The T4K's rectangular shape is unusual for a smaller flashlight, but similar to the Nitecore Tip series, and the larger TM10K. In thinner lights like the Tip, it allows a larger battery capacity than a cylindrical light with similar pocket comfort, but that isn't really the case here. The T4K is similar in size to an Emisar D4 with an 18350 tube, but an 18350 battery holds more energy than the T4K's internal pouch cell.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/t4k/P1280573.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/t4k/P1280573.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The body is constructed of metal, and a significant amount of the underside is dedicated to heatsinking. The sandwich construction makes for a lightweight package with no wasted space, but would be difficult to waterproof, and indeed advertises only splash resistance. The plastic optic does not have a glass cover to protect against scratches.</p>
<p>Two switches should allow most people to figure out basic operation without reading any documentation, and the UI offers shortcuts and additional features to those who do read the manual.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0009.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/P1280585.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/P1280585.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The T4K does what it sets out to do with no surprises. There's no overheating in the normal modes, or with a single 10 second use of turbo; there are no machining or fit problems; there's no PWM; Efficiency in modes other than the highest is competitive with other premium brands. Most notable is that the USB-C charging works with all USB power supplies and cables I tried, while many flashlights on the market with USB-C ports have limited compatibility.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>The T4K is an impractical toy light with a high price tag and few of the features that attract hobbyists. I imagine it having a fairly narrow audience, but for those who do like its features, it doesn't come with any unpleasant surprises.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/t4k/P1240469.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/t4k/P1240469.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>Internal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Cree XP-L2 cool white (X4)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>6148K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>70.8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>~4000 lm (for 10 seconds, advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>209m (for 10 seconds, advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sustainable throw</td>
<td>45m (advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>200 lm (advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>200lm (advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>2.6 (advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>82.3 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>29.2 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>77 g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Environment protection</td>
<td>IP54</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-C</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port without battery</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★☆☆ (conditionally recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Huge burst output</li>
<li>Compliant USB-C</li>
<li>Voltage display on screen</li>
<li>Runtime display on screen</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Cool white, low-CRI</li>
<li>Low sustainable throw</li>
<li>Non-removable battery</li>
<li>Not waterproof</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>There's only one version of the T4K.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0001.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0001.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0002.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0002.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The T4K comes with a USB A->C cable.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Press power button</td>
<td>Last used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Press power button</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Press mode button</td>
<td>Cycle modes (except Turbo)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On/off/lockout-1</td>
<td>Hold mode button</td>
<td>Turbo (momentary, max 10 seconds)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold power button</td>
<td>Ultralow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Press mode button</td>
<td>Voltage check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold power button</td>
<td>Lockout-1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold power button longer</td>
<td>Lockout-2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Press power button, release, then hold</td>
<td>Last used</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The difference between lockout-1 and lockout-2 is that momentary turbo is still available in lockout-1. A demo mode in which the light turns off after 30 seconds is available; to toggle between demo and standard "daily" mode, hold both buttons for two seconds.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>The T4K is so floody that I am not able to measure its output in a way that I'm satisfied with the accuracy. My measurements were significantly higher than advertised due to light hitting the sensor, but based on my experience and comparison with other lights, I'm satisfied Nitecore's advertised numbers are reasonably accurate.</p>
<p>The integrated battery design also made measuring standby power consumption impractical. I've read reports that some examples of the T4K drain the battery excessively in standby, but my example did not have significant voltage loss in a month of non-use.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Ultralow</td>
<td>1</td>
<td></td>
<td>3m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>13m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>21 hours (advertised)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>65</td>
<td>24m</td>
<td>8.2 hours</td>
<td>8.2 hours</td>
<td>8.2 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>45m</td>
<td>101 minutes</td>
<td>101 minutes</td>
<td>101 minutes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>4000</td>
<td>209m</td>
<td>10 seconds</td>
<td>10 seconds</td>
<td>10 seconds</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>6148K</td>
<td>0.002800 (moderate green)</td>
<td>70.8</td>
<td>-34.9</td>
<td>41.5</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>T4K vs Zebralight SC64c LE (LH351D 4000K)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0165.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0165.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0160.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0160.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>T4K vs Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia (144A 4500K)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0200.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0200.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0197.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210827_0197.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Max vs sustainable</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210615_0013.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210615_0013.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210615_0014.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210615_0014.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The T4K uses a built-in pouch cell with a claimed capacity of 1000 mAh. That's comparable to a 14500 cell, or a bit less than an 18350. Charging is via a USB-C port, and it is compatible with C->C cables. A full charge takes about 80 minutes.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The T4K is held together with eight Torx T3 screws, and two small Phillips screws that attach the clip. Removing the MCPCB for an emitter swap is not terribly difficult, though it's unusually thick and will take more heat to reflow than most. Most 3V, 3535 form factor LEDs should work, though I suspect max output would be too much for the popular and beautiful Nichia 219B.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0044.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0044.jpg" /></a> <a class="image image2" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0011.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0011.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0048.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/t4k/20210828_0048.jpg" /></a></p>Review: Olight Warrior Mini 2 - a tactical EDC light with an unfortunate battery2021-08-30T00:00:00+00:002021-08-30T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-08-30:/olight-warrior-mini-2.html<p>The Olight Warrior Mini 2 is an everyday carry light with features for high-stress or tactical use, excellent efficiency, magnetic charging, and a proprietary battery. It would be an excellent flashlight with just a couple changes.</p><p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0043_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0043_01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>This <a href="https://www.olightstore.com/warrior-mn2.html">Olight Warrior Mini 2</a> was provided by Olight for review. Olight is having a sale in their <a href="https://www.olightstore.com/">official store</a> from 8PM EDT on August 30 to 11:59 PM August 31.</p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Olight Warrior Mini 2 is a medium-large everyday carry flashlight with user interface features to support use in high-stress situations, with a cool white emitter and a proprietary battery based on an 18650 cell. The regular price is $90, though Olight has frequent sales.</p>
<p>A common request from beginners seeking flashlight recommendations when they anticipate using the light under stress is a single-mode, high-only flashlight. Such users often want a light for use when someone attacks them, or more likely when their dog slips its collar and bolts into traffic. Memory for technical details and fine-motor control aren't at their best in such situations, so they tend to want simple operation with a button on the end that will give maximum output with a firm press. To enthusiasts, such a design seems like a waste of the potential provided by modern batteries, LEDs, and electronics.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0041_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0041_01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Several flashlight manufacturers have designed user interfaces that provide maximum output with a firm press of the tailswitch while offering access to other modes by other means. Olight's may be the most sophisticated, with a half-press on the tailswitch activating medium, and a time-based means of deciding between momentary and steady activation. It's also possible to set the tailswitch to high/strobe instead of medium/high.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, color quality was not a priority in the Warrior Mini 2, and the LED chosen, a Luminus SST-40 has some of the worst color rendering of any used today in a premium flashlight. Worse, for some users is that the battery is proprietary, with both positive and negative contacts on one end. Unlike some other Olight designs, the extra contact is not just used for charging, but is required to operate the light. An 18650 will not power the light at all. This makes sharing spares with other lights and devices that use 18650s impossible, and buying extra batteries considerably more expensive than competitive options.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The Warrior Mini is a dual-switch flashlight slightly more compact than the average 1x18650 dual-switch tube light. It slightly resembles an Olight S2R with an added tailswitch, though less so than its predecessor, which is closer to the S2R's size. The body is textured with a comfortable, but grippy pattern. The pocket clip is both two-way and reversible, and provides essentially flush carry in the bezel-down orientation. New for an Olight using a TIR optic is glass lens. A proximity sensor reduces the chance of burning objects, a design Olight has used on headlamps from the H15 Wave to the Perun series.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0037_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0037_01.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0038_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0038_01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The user interface is fundamentally similar to products from competitors such as Acebeam, Klarus, and Thrunite in that a sideswitch provides access to all modes for general use, while a tailswitch offers instant access to the highest mode. Where this light, and several other Warrior series models differ from those is that a <em>half</em> press of the tailswitch activates medium. A similar "gas pedal" design is found on some Surefire models, but without the extra modes on the sideswitch. Competitors are typically half-press for momentary and full-press for constant on, while Olight opted for very short presses activating constant output and anything over about half a second being momentary. This method isn't good for signaling, but I do find it convenient for general use. Unusually, there's no mechanical lockout, and partially unscrewing the head only disables the tailswitch. An electronic lockout is available.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0040_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0040_01.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0039_01.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0039_01.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>There's a magnet in the tail of the light, and it can support the weight of the light when hung vertically, but not horizontally. The LED is a cool white Luminus SST-40. This emitter has been popular of late with manufacturers because it's efficient, capable of outputs over 2000 lumens when driven hard enough, and easier to drive than multi-die LEDs like the Cree XHP series. The SST-40 is not popular with color quality enthusiasts however, as its color rendering index is typically under 70, while high-power LEDs in the 90s are available. Several Luminus emitters tend to have green tint, especially in lower modes, an this SST-40 is no exception. It's less green at higher outputs, but colors of objects are significantly washed out.</p>
<p>Olight opted for its usual magnetic charging system and proprietary battery for the Warrior Mini 2. Magnetic charging is a mixed bag - convenient and waterproof, but proprietary. Proprietary batteries, on the other hand are always bad for the user unless there's some benefit that couldn't be achieved any other way. Other manufacturers who want an electronic tailswitch and onboard charging usually use a double-wall battery tube, and Olight did so in the past with the original M2R. Proprietary batteries may be good for the manufacturer though, as Olight charges about double the market price of a protected 18650, and four times the price of an equivalent unprotected cell.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0023.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0023.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>Most aspects of the Warrior Mini 2 are very well executed. Machining quality appears to be excellent, and the threads are noticeably smoother than the average flashlight. All modes are flicker-free, and all but the highest have stable output until the battery is low. Efficiency is excellent in all modes I tested, though it was not practical to test current in low modes or quiescent current. </p>
<p>I've noticed two execution issues. First, the magnet is not strong enough to hold the light at angles far from vertical. Second, during some attempts to test runtime at max output starting with a full battery, I only measured 1106 lumens at 30 seconds rather than the 1823 I measured in other runs. The light did come on at full power, but throttled rapidly. I've seen similar behavior on some especially power-hungry lights to protect the user from damaging low-performing batteries, but that's surprising to see in a light with a <em>proprietary</em> battery.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/WM2 max fan-173690460706426.png"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/WM2 max fan-173690460706426.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Safety evaluation</h2>
<p>There's a dedicated safety section here because the original Warrior Mini was quickly taken out of production after reports of accidental activation, burned clothing and bags, and melted optics. Activations were attributed to inadvertent tailswitch presses, and contact with objects that are conductive, but high in resistance. I personally verified that a high-resistance short across the tailcap of a Warrior Mini would turn the light on in its highest mode. I suspect this is how the magnetic remote switch for weapon-mounted Olight models works, but I don't believe the Warrior Mini is intended for weapon mounting.</p>
<p>The Warrior Mini 2 addresses the safety concerns in several ways. First, there's a proximity sensor that detects light bouncing back from a nearby surface and reduces output. This seems to be reliable and should prevent even intentional burning/melting of objects. Second, the button is harder to press, which I find a bit worse ergonomically. Third, the pocket clip now supports a bezel-down configuration, which I consider a huge ergonomic improvement. Fourth, there's now a glass lens over the plastic optic. Finally, shorting the tailswitch no longer activates the light. The only feature that comes to mind for me that Olight didn't add is a mechanical lockout.</p>
<p>I'm disappointed Olight made such a mistake with the original version, especially given previous issues with live charging contacts on other models, but I'm impressed with how thoroughly the issues were addressed on the new model. Any inadvertent activation with the new model is likely user error.</p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>Proprietary 3500 mAh</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Luminus SST-40 cool white</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>~ 65</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>1823lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>205m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>508lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>190 lm/W</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>5.4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>118mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>25mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>122g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-magnetic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port without battery</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes, ~2.6V</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★☆☆☆ (not recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Versatile user interface</li>
<li>Instant (optionally momentary) high with a full press of the tailswitch for stressful situations</li>
<li>Instant (optionally momentary) medium from a half-press of the tailswitch</li>
<li>Excellent pocket clip</li>
<li>Very good efficiency</li>
<li>Stable output for most of the runtime in most modes</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Proprietary battery</li>
<li>SST-40 is cool white, green tint, low CRI</li>
<li>Weak magnet</li>
<li>No mechanical lockout</li>
<li>Proprietary battery (yes, I said it twice)</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The Warrior Mini 2 comes in black or tan in aluminum as well as a "mountain sky" white/blue finish. There have been special editions in titanium, but titanium models are not in stock at the time of this writing.</p>
<p>This is the black aluminum version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The Warrior Mini 2 comes with a proprietary battery, magnetic charging cable, pocket clip, lanyard ring, lanyard, carabiner, and user manual.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0020.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0020.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click sideswitch</td>
<td>Last used (except strobe, mode 1)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click sideswitch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press sideswitch</td>
<td>Mode 5 (lowest)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click sideswitch</td>
<td>Mode 1 (highest)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click sideswitch</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mode 1</td>
<td>Double-click sideswitch</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Half-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Mode 3 (or mode 1)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Full-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Mode 1 (or strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If the tailswitch is released within about half a second, the light stays on in the given mode; longer than that and the light turns off when the tailswitch is released. To change the tailswitch behavior between mode 3/1 and mode 1 / strobe, fully press the tailswitch, then immediately press the sideswitch.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0022.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0022.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters, diffused)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>21</td>
<td>17</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>58</td>
<td>51</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>500</td>
<td>508</td>
<td>119</td>
<td>105</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>1750</td>
<td>1823</td>
<td>220</td>
<td>205</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>19 hours</td>
<td>19 hours</td>
<td>19 hours</td>
<td>190</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>508</td>
<td>3.5 hours</td>
<td>3.5 hours</td>
<td>4.5 hours</td>
<td>159</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1 (throttled)</td>
<td>1106</td>
<td>35 minutes</td>
<td>35 minutes</td>
<td>100 minutes</td>
<td>142</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Normal behavior of mode 1 is to throttle to mode 2 over the course of 4 minutes, after which the graph should look like mode 2. I was unable to determine the cause of the throttling, and did not have the opportunity to repeat the test by publication time.</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wm2/WM2 max fan-173724343632719.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wm2/WM2 max fan-173724343632719.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wm2/WM2 high uncooled-20457493115075.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wm2/WM2 high uncooled-20457493115075.png" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/wm2/WM2 med-191463382017928.png"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/wm2/WM2 med-191463382017928.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>6342K</td>
<td>0.010385 (extremely green)</td>
<td>68.8</td>
<td>-55.7</td>
<td>35.0</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>A Duv greater than +/- 0.006 is not ANSI white, and these CRI numbers are significantly worse than in typical of cool white LEDs with unspecified CRI. Colors are noticeably more distorted with the Warrior Mini 2 than with the average LED flashlight.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Warrior Mini 2 vs Zebralight SC64c LE (LH351D 4000K)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0166.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0166.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0160.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0160.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0201.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0201.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0196.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0196.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Warrior Mini 2 vs Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia (144A 4500K)</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0166.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0166.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0161.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0161.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0201.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0201.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0197.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210827_0197.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>With both in their highest modes (shown), the Warrior Mini 2 is considerably brighter than the SC64c LE, however the sustainable levels are very similar.</p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The Warrior Mini 2 uses a proprietary battery derived from a 3500 mAh 18650 cell. Only this battery or substantially similar designs will work. It can be charged in most standard slot chargers, or internally using the magnetic charger. The latter takes about 4 hours.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0021.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210830_0021.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Unlike most recent Olight models, the Warrior Mini 2 uses a screw-in bezel, which makes removing the optic and MCPCB relatively easy. The MCPCB is an odd shape to accommodate the proximity sensor, slightly thicker than average, and has two holes to help position the optics. Both positive and negative contacts are on the same side, and the leads are too short to reach with some other MCPCBs. Reflowing a 5050 form factor LED such as a Cree XM-L2 or XHP50.2 (3V) onto the stock MCPCB is the easiest approach to changing the emitter. It should also be possible to use 3535 LEDs such as the Samsung LH351D and Cree XP-L series with more effort. It may be possible to use a reflector instead of the stock TIR optic, at a cost of disabling the proximity sensor.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0045.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0045.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0046.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/wm2/20210828_0046.jpg" /></a></p>Review: Skilhunt H04F RC2021-08-28T00:00:00+00:002021-08-28T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-08-28:/skilhunt-h04f-rc.html<p>The Skilhunt H04 series is a 1x18650 right-angle light that can be used as a handheld, headlamp, or magnetic area light. It comes in several optic and LED variations; this one has a reflector with flip-out diffuser and a high-CRI 4000K Samsung LH351D.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/h04f-rc-led-headlamp">Skilhunt H04F RC</a> was providen by Skilhunt for review. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/?ref=9">Killzone Flashlights</a>, a Skilhunt dealer for the US facillitated the arrangement. Here's the <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04f-rc-high-cri-4000k-samsung-lh351d?ref=9">H04F RC at Killzone</a>. Those are affiliate links to Killzone, and my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" will get you 10% off most flashlights, including the H04 series.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/P1270581.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/P1270581.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Skilhunt H04 series is a follow-up to their successful H03, which was the enthusiast's budget right-angle headlamp of choice for several years. The latest H04 models feature a 90+ CRI Samsung LH351D 4000K, Skilhunt's new customizable user interface from the M150 v2 and new revision of the M200 along with my new favorite headband. The line has evolved into a more mainstream offering since its introduction, with optional magnetic charging and an optional bundled battery.</p>
<p>I consider the 1x18650 right-angle light to be the most useful and versatile flashlight form factor, especially with a magnetic tailcap as the H04 series uses. Lights in this style can be used handheld, carried in pockets with a clip, clipped to clothing or equipment, attached to surfaces with a magnet, and of course worn as headlamps.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h04/P1270591.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/P1270591.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The H04's design is farily conventional for a right-angle light, aside from the F model's diffuser. What sets it apart most from its competition is the range of available configurations. It comes with a cool or neutral white Cree XM-L2, or a neutral white, high-CRI Samsung LH351D. There's a choice of reflector (throwy), beaded TIR (floody), or reflector with flip-up diffuser. There's an 18350 size option. There's a choice of onboard magnetic charging or not for 18650 models.</p>
<p>The headband mount, however is unconventional. It supports easy installation and removal <em>with the pocket clip attached</em>. This headband design provides a significant improvement in versalitily relative to the rest of the industry, and can be purchased separately and used with some other brands of right-angle light.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0028.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0028.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The driver uses a relatively efficient buck converter and supports a wide voltage range, though low voltage protection only works with a single Li-ion cell. A pair of CR123s, 16340s, or 18350s can be used in the 18650 model i a pinch. There's a choice of user interfaces, one of which allows the user to enable and disable modes for increased flexibility.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/P1270585.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/P1270585.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>The H04 is well-machined, with smooth, square-cut threads, and no visible defects in my sample. Output is stable and flicker-free in all modes, aside from timed stepdowns in turbo modes. Efficiency is competitive. Where the H04's electronics do suffer is peak output, where a high-resistance spring in the tailcap results in significant output sag depending on the length of the battery.</p>
<p>The magnetic charging system works well and provides significant convenience for some use cases, but the charging contacts on the light can output some current. The circuit detects a short and shuts off output in a fraction of a second, but I was able to ignite steel wool with it after several attempts. People working in an environment with metal dust or shavings may be better off with the non-charging model.</p>
<p>The diffuser is surprisingly useful. I was expecting it to be a gimmick, and possibly fragile, but the difference in beam pattern and usable throw is significant, and I haven't broken it yet. I do sometimes find it to be a distraction in my peripheral vision, however.</p>
<p>Users looking to wow their friends with peak output probably won't be thrilled by any version of the H04, but it's a tool, not a toy. The H04 excels at extended use in more practical medium modes, with a competitive price, good color quality, and my favorite headband in the industry.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/P1270582.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/P1270582.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Spec</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x18650, 2xCR123A, 2x16340, 2x18350</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Samsung LH351D (Cree XM-L2 optional)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color temperature</td>
<td>4502K</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>89.1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>777lm (unprotected 18650), 860lm (protected 18650), 952lm (2x18350)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>89m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>470lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>504lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>132lm/W @ 328lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>2.4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen (diffused)</td>
<td>1.16</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>100mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>23.5mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>48g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>95g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery and headband</td>
<td>135g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB-magnetic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port</td>
<td>Yes, all modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port without battery</td>
<td>Yes, max output is reduced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes, 2.8V</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★☆ (recommended)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Headband mount works with pocket clip installed</li>
<li>Headlamp mount is quick in/out while being fairly secure</li>
<li>Flip-down diffuser offers a choice of beam patterns</li>
<li>Configurable levels</li>
<li>Good efficiency, given the high CRI</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Tint is a little green</li>
<li>Tailcap spring has too much resistance with unprotected cells</li>
<li>Impacts or vigorous shaking can turn the light off with unprotected cells</li>
<li>Charging pad can produce a spark under the wrong conditions</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The H04 offers a choice of Samsung LH351D or Cree XM-L2 LEDs. The LH351D was 4000K (recent models are 5000K) and 90+ CRI, and the XM-L2 is cool or neutral white and unspecified CRI. There's a choice of floody beaded TIR optic (H04), less floody reflector (H04R), or reflector and diffuser (H04F). USB-magnetic charging is optional on every version. The same options are available in a mini version with a 1x18350 body.</p>
<p>This is the LH351D, reflector + diffuser, 1x18650 version with magnetic charging.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The H04F RC comes with a headband, pocket clip, charging cable, lanyard, user manual, and spare O-rings. A 3500 mAh 18650 battery is optionally bundled.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/P1270594.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/P1270594.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>There are two different UIs: mode group A, and B. A resembles Skilhunt's older products, while B is similar to UIs used by Acebeam, Olight, and Thrunite, but with more modes, and user control over what modes are available. Skilhunt uses L, M, H, and T 2 and 1 to designate the modes, in order of lowest to highest. Blinking modes are designated S 1-3.</p>
<h3>Mode Group A</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last used (except Turbo, Strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low (last-used of L1, L2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo (last-used of T1, T2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo/strobe</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Toggle sub-mode (e.g. M1, M2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2S</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5S</td>
<td>Mode group B</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Mode group B</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used (except T1, S)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Lowest enabled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through steady modes (except T1)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>T1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Last-used strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle variable strobe, slow beacon, fast beacon</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2s</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 2S</td>
<td>Lowest enabled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5s</td>
<td>Mode group A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Config</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Note that while the lowest mode can be saved into memory, it is <em>not</em> saved when accessed using the shortcut from off.</p>
<p>Loosening the tailcap a quarter turn locks out activation mechanically.</p>
<h3>Config</h3>
<p>In config, the light will cycle through all the modes other than T1. If enabled, the indicator light under the switch will be on, and if not, the light will be off. Click once to toggle the active mode. The cycle will continue until interrupted by either a long-press to save the current settings, or a triple-click to reset to factory defaults.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with a Skilhunt 3500 mAh 18650 battery. Tested performance is with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery, which should result in slightly shorter runtime.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters, diffused)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>0.4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>14</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>17</td>
<td>10</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>61</td>
<td>69</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>17</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>137</td>
<td>39</td>
<td>25</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>320</td>
<td>328</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>40</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>430</td>
<td>470</td>
<td>71</td>
<td>47</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>790</td>
<td>777</td>
<td>89</td>
<td>60</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8.5 years</td>
<td>40 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>566 hours</td>
<td>5.3</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>14</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>89 hours</td>
<td>33.5</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>53 hours</td>
<td>56.2</td>
<td>127</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>69</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>22 hours</td>
<td>133.5</td>
<td>123</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>137</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>250</td>
<td>130</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>328</td>
<td>3.6 hours</td>
<td>3.8 hours</td>
<td>4 hours</td>
<td>765</td>
<td>132</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>470</td>
<td>128 minutes</td>
<td>147 minutes</td>
<td>165 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>105</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>777</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>124 minutes</td>
<td>165 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>111</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The H04 has a timed stepdown for thermal protection.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/H04 max VTC6-490917233141123.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h04/H04 max VTC6-490917233141123.png" /></a></a> <a class="image2 image" href="static/photos/h04/H04 T2 VTC6-506214023076689.png"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h04/H04 T2 VTC6-506214023076689.png" /></a></p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/H04 H1 VTC6-516752241110762.png"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/H04 H1 VTC6-516752241110762.png" /></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>4502K</td>
<td>0.009174 (extremely green)</td>
<td>89.9</td>
<td>55.2</td>
<td>70.0</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>A Duv greater than +/- 0.006 is not ANSI white. Newer models have switched to a 5000K LED which usually isn't especially green.</p>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Open, diffused, and vs Zebralight SC64c LE (LH351D 4000K)</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0163.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0163.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0162.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0162.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0160.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0160.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Open, diffused, and vs Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia (144A 4500K)</p>
<p><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0163.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0163.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0162.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0162.jpg" /></a><a class="image image3" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0161.jpg"><img class="image-process-third-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0161.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Outdoor</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h04/20210615_0009.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210615_0008.jpg" /></a>
<a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h04/20210615_0008.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210615_0008.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The H04 series will run on any 18650 battery, two CR123A batteries, or two unprotected 16340 or 18350 batteries. I do not believe protected 16340s/18350s will fit, but I have none to test. It's not clear if there's low-voltage protection for a series of two Li-ion cells; my test was interrupted by a failure of one of my 18350 cells I believe is related to the cell, not anything to do with the H04.</p>
<p>The magnetic charger charges at a rate of 0.95A and requires about 3.5 hours to fully charge a VTC6.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0021.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0021.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>The magnetic charging pad has detectable current and can create sparks briefly when shorted. Skilhunt is <a href="https://zakreviews.com/olight-h2r.html">not the first</a> company to produce a flashlight with this issue. The current is shut off very quickly, and it is difficult to ignite steel wool with the charging pad, but not impossible. Users working in environments with metal dust or shavings should consider the H04 without magnetic charging.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0019.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0019.jpg" /></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The optics are held in with four Torx T4 screws and easily removed, providing access to the MCPCB. LED and optic swaps are therefore very easy. Any 3V LED should work.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0060.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0060.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>It's also trivial to reverse the orientation of the diffuser on the F model.</p>
<p><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0057.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0057.jpg" /></a><a class="image image2" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0061.jpg"><img class="image-process-half-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0061.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Bypassing the tailcap spring for reduced resistance increases maximum output to 907lm with an unprotected Sony VTC6.</p>
<p><a class="image image1" href="static/photos/h04/20210827_0026.jpg"><img class="image-process-full-width" src="static/photos/h04/20210827_0026.jpg" /></a></p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Summer Solstice 20212021-06-21T00:00:00+00:002021-06-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2021-06-21:/arbitrary-list-2021-1.html<p>Happy Summer Solstice! This is the perfect day to pick a new flashlight, and this list may include the best flashlight for you (there is no objective best).</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Summer Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're least likely to need a flashlight if you live north of the Equator, but it only increases from now<a href="http://zakreviews.com/static/photos/sc64c-le/derivatives/article-image/PXL_20201129_020041774.jpg">.</a></p>
<p>Because a definitive buyer's guide is too hard, I've made an arbitrary list of popular lights you should consider if you're shopping for a light. There is no best flashlight, so this is not the last word in what's good, but a list of lights that are often bought or recommended here with a touch of my own opinion thrown in. Exclusion from this list doesn't mean a light isn't good. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Where possible, official manufacturer URLs are linked here. Sometimes the manufacturer offers good deals through direct orders, sometimes vendors have the best prices. There are <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/index#wiki_coupon_codes">coupon codes available</a> that apply to many of the lights listed. I'm hosting a <a href="http://zakreviews.com/arbitrary-list-2021-1.html">version of this list</a> on my own site with affiliate links because a few people have asked for a way to give me a kickback.</p>
<p>Shipping/availability may be affected by the COVID-19 pandemic. In particular, items shipped by USPS are taking an usual amount of time to arrive. You may have to be more patient than usual if you want certain flashlights, chargers, and batteries.</p>
<h1>For those in a hurry</h1>
<h3>If you don't want to learn much, just get one of these.</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the A4, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details. In this section, I've linked good places to buy the lights rather than the manufacturer.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a <strong>general-use light</strong> for <strong>$30</strong>. USB-C charging, and it now has proper C-to-C support. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-5000k-m150-v2?ref=9">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D LED option - a <strong>smaller everyday carry light</strong> with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. <strong>$44</strong> with coupon code "reddit", and sometimes available on Amazon, but not always with the right LED, which is important since the color and beam quality of the other options is poor. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/collections/headlamps/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 RC</a> with high-CRI LH351D - a <strong>headlamp</strong>, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. <strong>$58</strong> with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a>, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld <strong>tactical light</strong> or <strong>duty light</strong>. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). <strong>$77</strong> with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery. </li>
<li><a href="https://mohrlumens.com/collections/flashlights/products/sofirn-sp36-blf-90-cri-anduril">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - a <strong>larger high-output light</strong> with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$65</strong> price tag. It has USB-C (A-to-C only) charging and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task.</li>
<li><a href="https://thrunite.com/catapult-v6-sst70-space-grey/">Thrunite Catapult V6 SST70</a> - a <strong>long-range light</strong> able to provide fairly good visibility at 350m and detect large objects at twice that. This one doesn't have good color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and USB-C charging. <strong>$64</strong>, at the moment, usually <strong>$75</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own and use, and easy to buy. They score well on most measures flashlight nerds care about while also being beginner-friendly.</p>
<h1>About specs and considerations</h1>
<h2>Moved <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/specs">to the wiki</a> due to character limit</h2>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<h3>Keychain</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Nitecore Tube 2.0</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$11</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/a3x?variant=30319955673191">Rovyvon Aurora A3x</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 20g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$28</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://sofirnlight.com/sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-light-10180-battery-included-p0155.html">Sofirn SC01</a> - neutral tint, 95 CRI, 330 lumen advertised max, which is sure to drop quickly because this runs on a tiny, but standardized and removable 10180 battery, which can be charged inside the light through a micro-USB port. This seems to be a continuation of the Cooyoo Quantum design that inspired many rebrands and derivatives. <strong>$16</strong> from Sofirn's site, shipped from China.</li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://wurkkos.com/products/wk01-penlight-aaa-mini-flashlight-sst20-4000k-6000k-led-flashlight-brown?VariantsId=10021">Wurkkos WK01</a> - a 1xAAA light with 95 CRI (in the 4000K version) and a tailswitch. <strong>$14</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B86BNYL?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt E3A</a> - a simple 1xAAA light with a twist switch for <strong>$12</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/iyp365/">Lumintop IYP365 Nichia 219C</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI (Nichia version only) and neutral white. This is a longer IYP07. Not as bright as a Ti4, but light quality is often more important for being able to see clearly. <strong>$21</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti4-max-252-lumen-penlight/">Thrunite Ti4</a> - 2xAAA - Neutral white available. High output for this form factor. <strong>$24</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. Similar to the IYP365 on paper, but many people prefer the tint of the 219B over the 219C. <strong>$26</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D - this is the AA/14500 version of the M200, without the mode customization feature. It's only offered bundled with a 14500. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$43</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/e2a-14500-aa-600-lumens-compact-pocket-edc-mini-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt E2A</a> with high-CRI 4000K SST-20 LED. This is a basic, inexpensive 3-mode mechanical tailswitch light running on AA or 14500. It has nice mode spacing, low-voltage protection for the 14500, and impressive maximum output for the size and price. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC53c-AA-Neutral-White-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_201.html">Zebralight SC53c</a> - 90+ CRI, warm-neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-archer-1a-v3/">Thrunite Archer 1A</a> - a dual-switch 1xAA light that can also use 14500. 200 lumens with AA, about 450 with 14500. <strong>$28</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-tk16-aluminum?ref=9">Acebeam TK16</a> (SST-20 version only) - 95+ CRI, neutral white, <strong>tail</strong> e-switch with shortcuts to lowest, highest, and last-used, plus two mode groups so you can choose between sensible runtimes and impressing your friends with the 1250 lumen peak output. 0.5 lumen moonlight. Battery included, but you'll need a separate charger. If you were considering the Olight S1 line, get this instead. Also available in copper. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://wowtac.com/wowtac-w1-cw-edc-562-lumen/">Wowtac W1</a> - a basic light using a 16340 (CR123A won't work well, if at all) and USB charging. It only seems to come in cool white at the moment. Why is it here? Because it costs <strong>$20</strong> on US Amazon and should have Wowtac's usual solid build quality and accurate specs.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t1-magnetic-tailcap-pocket-flashlight/">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/html/dx3bmkii/index.html">Eagletac DX3B Mk II</a> - for those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging IlluminationGear has what looks to be a dealer exclusive option with an Osram White Flat LED for over 300m throw. Pricey at <strong>$95</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<p>This category is so popular it gets subcategories. If you're looking for a lot of power and runtime that's still possible to carry in most pants pockets, this is your battery.</p>
<h4>Dual-switch lights</h4>
<p>A tailswitch controls power, a sideswitch changes brightness. The ease of explaning the UI makes these perfect to hand out to others.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/sp31-v20-xpl-hi-or-lh351d-5000k-4000k-tactical-flashlight-with-battery-and-charger-p0015.html">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED for the very budget price of <strong>$28</strong> shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone special edition) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side switch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). <strong>$67</strong> by itself, or <strong>$77</strong> with a battery.</li>
</ul>
<h4>E-switch lights</h4>
<p>Electronic switches enable shortcuts from off to useful modes - usually lowest, highest, and last-used.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/tc15-black">Thrunite TC15</a> - high output and throw from a 25mm tube light with USB charging, though color quality may not be the best. <strong>$56</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m200-new-edition-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt M200</a> (high-CRI LH351D option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$43</strong> without a battery, <strong>$51</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCM95X6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$30</strong>. Now there's a choice of color temperatures: 2700K for the incandescent look, 4000K for afternoon sunlight, and 5000K for midday.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l17?ref=9">Acebeam L17</a> - a compact thrower more suited to a jacket pocket than everyday carry like the rest of these but still quite compact for its 800m throw. This is unconventional in having its e-switch on the end of the tailcap. <strong>$60</strong> (without battery)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Other by use case</h3>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e02-ii-420-lumens-aaa-10440-edc-flashlight-with-magnetic-tail-reversible-clip/">Manker E02 II</a> - 1xAAA or 1x10440 makes this the smallest on the list in this class. At 21g without battery and headband, I suspect even /r/ultralight will tolerate this, and the 95 CRI SST-20 (only in the neutral white option), users will be able to see detail. A magnetic tailcap expands the utility. <strong>$23</strong>, but note a headband is not included; that costs an extra $7.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e03h-ii-multi-purpose-pocket-edc-flashlight/">Manker E03H II</a> - the above, but AA/14500 and with sliding diffusers, including red, which some people insist on. Again go for the neutral white, high-CRI option. <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/h04-h04r-h04f-rc-mini-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp/">Skilhunt H04 Mini RC</a> - 18350 battery and USB-magnetic charging with my favorite headband in the industry and optional high-CRI LH351D. This offers a floody TIR, less floody reflector (R model) or reflector with flippable diffuser (F model) offered for <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H53c-AA-Headlamp-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_194.html">Zebralight H53c</a> - All the Zebralight goodness described above for the SC64c LE, but in a right-angle, 1xAA form factor. The Cree XP-L2 may make a less attractive beam than the Samsung LH351D, but most people report Zebralight's optics smooth it out well. H53Fc for a frosted lens for a very even beam. This one even comes with a pocket clip, and the headband does not have the top strap the 18650 versions do. <strong>$59</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-th20-high-output-and-light-weight-aa-battery-led-headlamp/">Thrunite TH20</a> - 1xAA dedicated headlamp available in neutral white with infinite ramping and shortcuts from off to low/high. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h40?ref=9">Acebeam H40</a> with 95 CRI Luminus SST-20. This is a dedicated headlamp very similar to the TH20, but trades having a good sub-lumen low for high CRI. It would be nice to have both in the same light, but for that, you'll need a soldering iron. The high-CRI option may only be available from dealers. <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25">Nitecore NU25</a> - the other ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-th01-1500-lumen-cree-xhp50-18350-rechargeable-led-headlamp/">Thrunite TH01</a> - 1x18350 battery dedicated headlamp, 1500 lumens burst (450 stable). This is a USB-charged option without going to the larger 18650 battery. <strong>$46</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h17?ref=9">Acebeam H17</a> - right-angle form factor, three emitters, high-CRI, and an 18350 battery. I think most will prefer the Nichia 219C's tint. <strong>$60</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/h04-led-headlamp/">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. These now offer a high-CRI LH351D option, making it considerably more competitive. <strong>$44</strong>, or <strong>$52</strong> for the RC version with magnetic charging. Battery not included by default, but Skilhunt and dealers usually add one for less than $10.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0912NSJS5/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP40</a> (with LH351D) - high CRI, USB charging, a choice of color temperatures and a battery included for the price is pretty compelling. The other options have advantages, but you'll pay for them. <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/panda-2m-cri/">YLP Panda 2M CRI</a> - 1x18650 dedicated headlamp, with high-CRI neutral white LH351Ds. Not the most efficient, but the light quality is great and with an 18650 battery, most people won't mind. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-c2-pro-nichia-magnet-usb-warm?ref=9">Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia 144A</a> - 1x18650 right-angle light with a beautiful high-CRI neutral white emitter, boost driver for stable output, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging, and excellent low mode. I pushed for this light's creation, so I'm biased, but I do think it's excellent. The manufacturer, however is not, and I recommend ordering from Killzone in the US to avoid customer service and shipping problems. <strong>$90</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K2SHSNJ/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos HD20</a> - 21700 battery, two LEDs (one throwy, the other high-CRI), and USB-C in a right-angle form factor. </li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t36?ref=9">Acebeam T36</a> - semi-pocketable, 2100 lumens, 303m FL1 throw, 21700 battery, USB-C charging, and now offered in 4000K neutral white. If this sounds like the alternative to the Olight M2R Pro you've been waiting for... it actually predated that light by about a year, then disappeared from the market. It's back now, and it deserves to sell better this time around. 4000K recommended. <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l30-ii?ref=9">Acebeam L30</a> - 4000 lumens from a single 18650 or 21700 (included). Neutral white available and recommended. Not the prettiest light, but there's <em>a lot</em> of it, and enough thermal mass to sustain it for a few minutes. Stable output without overheating is 2000 lumens. Forward-clicky tailswith is always max output, but the side switch has shortcuts to low and last-used. USB charging. <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">Acebeam L35</a> - similar to the L30, but with more output and throw, especially with the LatticePower P70 LED option claiming 570m FL1 throw. No onboard charging on this model, which makes it more waterproof. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://eagtac.com/html/gx30l2rpro/index.html">Eagletac GX30L2 Pro</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Neutral white with XHP35 HI recommended for more natural color and throw distance. Onboard charging. Neutral white optional. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected cells recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l18?ref=9">Acebeam L18</a> - this is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light. <strong>$70</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-tc20-3800-lumen-flashlight/">Thrunite TC20</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 180 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. 3800 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://acebeam.com/x45-xhp702-version">Acebeam X45</a> - 4x18650, not pretty even in neutral white, but it makes 18,000 lumens. <strong>$180</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://sofirnlight.com/sp36-blf-anduril-with-3-batteries-p0023.html">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not <em>always</em>. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. <strong>$50</strong> from Sofirn's site, more from Amazon.</li>
<li><a href="https://mohrlumens.com/collections/flashlights/products/convoy-s11-gt-fc40-4000-5000k">Convoy S11 FC40</a> - a basic 26650 tube light with a tailswitch, but the big news is the GT-FC40 LED. I think Convoy is the only manufacturer using this large, floody, high-CRI LED. It's pretty, and this is a way to experience it for <strong>$35</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t27?ref=9">Acebeam T27</a> - 1x21700/18650. This is like a thrower version of the L30 duty light above, though its charging is USB-C, and oddly, it can act as a USB powerbank. Boost driver for full output on a low battery. 5000K recommended. 1180m FL1 throw. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$140</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.acebeam.com/t28">Acebeam T28</a> - it's a T27 with a bigger head and even more throw. There's not much more to say about it than that. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-u22-iii-pm1-usb-c-rechargeable-long-range-flashlight/">Manker U22 III</a> - 21700 battery, 1km FL1 throw, USB-C, and finally a reasonable user interface. <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.illumn.com/flashlights/emisar-noctigon/noctigon-k1-side-e-switch-21700-usb-c-port-thrower.html">Noctigon K1</a> - choice of LEDs, 21700 battery, USB-C, and an advanced, configurable user interface. Osram W1 for most throw, Osraw W2 for some more output at a cost of heat and battery life, SBT90 for a lot of output, a lot of heat, $50 extra, and not much battery life. This is an enthusiast-oriented light, but it gets a place here because Illumn sells it, so it's easy to buy if you're in the US. <strong>$102</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k30-gt?_pos=1&_sid=ea6c2a4d0&_ss=r&variant=31817677504611&ref=9">Acebeam K30GT</a> - a hybrid, but leaning toward the throw side of things with 1km. 5500 lumens, but not for long due to heat. 3x18650. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k65-gt?ref=9">Acebeam K65GT</a> - 1.6km and 6500lm, but much bigger than the K30GT with 4x18650 batteries, giving it the ability to say bright longer without overheating. <strong>$240</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://mohrlumens.com/collections/flashlights/products/convoy-l6-gt-fc40-high-cri-2x26650">Convoy L6 FC40</a> - a 2x26650 light with a big head in the classic flashlight form-factor. The GT-FC40 LED is the big selling point here with nice tint, high CRI, over 3000 lumens, and over 700m throw. Other LEDs are offered with different characteristics, but they all offer a fair amount of output and throw. <strong>$73</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentlight.com/imalent-ms18-led-flashlight-cree-xhp70-2-led-max100000-lumens-intelligent-charging-for-outdoor-search-light.html">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. <strong>$500</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-l116t-ra-cri95-super-slim-led-light-panel-3300k-5600k-led-video-light-panel-lcd-display-screen-color-temperature-and-brightness-can-be-adjusted-with-np-f550-lithium-battery">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://viltroxstore.com/collections/led-video-light-1/products/viltrox-vl-200-ii-video-led-light-bi-color-3300k-5600k-30w-dimmable-led-video-light-panel-cri95-daylight-balanced-portable-continuous-lamp-with-wireless-remote-control-dc-adapter">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. Radio-based remote control. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fenixlight.com/product/detail/index.php?id=159">Fenix WF30RE</a> - the closest thing to an enthusiast-grade flashlight with an intrinsically-safe rating. This is a low-powered, but relatively normal e-switch tube light running on a field-replaceable 18650-based proprietary battery. In most cases, a proprietary battery results in automatic exclusion from this list, but I'm sure it's the only way they could achieve the hazardous environment ratings. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-blf-lt1-rechargeable-lantern-with-power-bank-function-adjustable-color-temperature-super-long-working-time">Sofirn BLF LT1</a> - 4x18650 lantern with Anduril and variable color temperature at 90 CRI. USB-C charging and powerbank functionality on newer models. <strong>$50</strong> on Aliexpress without batteries; more elsewhere or with batteries.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/fw3a/">Lumintop FW3A</a> - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently <strong>five</strong> LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C <em>may</em> have more pleasant tint. <strong>Caution</strong>: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. Build quality and reliability may be a bit questionable, but these pack in a lot of features for the money. Several larger versions with higher output exist, but the original still makes the most sense to this list's maintainer. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/fw1a/">Lumintop FW1A</a> - an FW3A with fewer emitters (one) and more reflector (again, one, in place of the FW3A's TIR optic). Less output, more throw, less demanding on the battery. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/products/lumintop-fw3x-2800-lumens-edc-flashlight-with-lume1-driver-and-aux-led-146">Lumintop FW3X</a> - a fancy FW3A with a buck/boost circuit for efficiency and stability in lower modes and colored aux LEDs. <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2021 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This is almost a tail-e-switch D4, but it uses a variable linear driver that provides a bit better efficiency and more stable output as the battery drains as well as allowing brightness adjustment without PWM and enabling the use of ultra-low-voltage LEDs like the Nichia E21A. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. SST-20 4000K would probably still be my pick here because the E21A doesn't seem to play all that well with the Carclo quad optics. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962537117.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2c0f6d6c8d3Uey&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=8bd5503a-49ff-4e28-9f7b-19fe3dd3bfb5">Convoy S2+/219C</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. S2+ linked. S3 is similar, but with a removable steel bezel. S6 has a deeper reflector for a narrower spill and longer throw. The high-CRI Samsung LH351D Nichia 219C and Luminus SST-20 LEDs, in order of most output to most throw, are strongly recommended over the prior options. 219C 4000K will probably make the largest number of people happy. "Body color" is actually drive current. More 7135 chips means more power, which means more output, shorter battery life, and more heat. x6 is a reasonable choice that should never get too hot to hold. x3 or x4 for giving to people who will waste the battery. x8 for max output. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$15</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - Do you miss the Emisar D1? This is a jacket pocket light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. It's the <em>only</em> light I've ever seen offer a high-CRI Cree XP-L HI, which in this case is an incandescent-like 2850K. <strong>$50</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002633222586.html">Convoy M21C FC40</a> - 1x21700, GT-FC40 high-CRI LED. I'd probably go with the "crumpled" reflector and 4000K for the nicest beam. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$100</strong> - again, check the <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/us-warehouse-product.html">US warehouse</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SST40-W-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Mini-Torch-p-1420116.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6137984&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux FT03 SST-40</a> FET driver, SST-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 955m throw and 2313 lumens according to zeroair. There's also an XHP50.2 version that trades some of the throw for output. 5000K suggested. <strong>$34</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP35 HI. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$90</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01-Mini-7-SST20-5500LM-CRI95-Type-C-Rechargeable-Campact-EDC-Flashlight-26650-21700-18650-p-1560142.html?rmmds=buy&ID=5303946272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux MF01 Mini</a> - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port. <strong>$65</strong>, but check for active discounts</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859342423.html">Convoy L21B SFT40</a> - 1x21700, 1258m throw, <strong>$35</strong>. Remember when 1km LED throwers started at 5x that? It wasn't long ago.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/lumintop-blf-gt90-7000-lumens-high-intensity-flashlight-sbt90-p0061.html">BLF GT90</a> - A huge 8x18650 flashlight with a Luminus SBT-90.2 for over 7000 lumens and 2700m throw claimed, but that's going to be limited by heat and power. For sustainable performance, the original may have the advantage. For short bursts, this will be most impressive. <strong>360</strong>, but look for discounts</li>
</ul>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Winter Solstice 20202020-12-21T00:00:00+00:002020-12-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-12-21:/arbitrary-list-2020-2.html<p>Happy Winter Solstice! This is the perfect day to pick a new flashlight, and this list may include the best flashlight for you (there is no objective best).</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Winter Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight if you live north of the Equator.<a href="http://zakreviews.com/static/photos/sc64c-le/derivatives/article-image/PXL_20201129_020041774.jpg">.</a></p>
<p>Because a definitive buyer's guide is too hard, I've made an arbitrary list of popular lights you should consider if you're shopping for a light. There is no best flashlight, so this is not the last word in what's good, but a list of lights that are often bought or recommended here with a touch of my own opinion thrown in. Exclusion from this list doesn't mean a light isn't good. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Where possible, this version of the list uses <strong>affiliate links</strong> which give me kickbacks when you make a qualifying purchase. My affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" provides a discount at Killzone Flashlights. See the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/khzj6x/arbitrary_list_of_popular_lights_winter_solstice/">reddit version</a>, which was written first if you prefer links to manufacturers where practical, and no affiliate codes.</p>
<p>Shipping/availability may be affected by the COVID-19 pandemic. In particular, items shipped by USPS are taking an usual amount of time to arrive. You may have to be more patient than usual if you want certain flashlights, chargers, and batteries.</p>
<h1>For those in a hurry</h1>
<h3>If you don't want to learn much, just get one of these.</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the A4, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details. In this section, I've linked good places to buy the lights rather than the manufacturer.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZZ2YFKD?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a <strong>general-use light</strong> for <strong>$30</strong>. USB-C charging, but it needs to use an A-to-C cable. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-5000k-m150-v2?ref=9">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D LED option - a <strong>smaller everyday carry light</strong> with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. <strong>$44</strong> with coupon code "reddit", and sometimes available on Amazon, but not always with the right LED, which is important since the color and beam quality of the other options is poor. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/collections/headlamps/products/skilhunt-h04-rc-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-led-headlamp?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 RC</a> with high-CRI LH351D - a <strong>headlamp</strong>, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. <strong>$58</strong> with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a>, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld <strong>tactical light</strong> or <strong>duty light</strong>. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). <strong>$77</strong> with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery. </li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Excluded/dp/B07KFF5BGZ/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - a <strong>larger high-output light</strong> with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$65</strong> price tag. It has USB-C (A-to-C only) charging and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMQMLLG/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A4 v2</a> - a <strong>long-range light</strong> able to provide fairly good visibility at 300m and detect large objects at twice that. Neutral white suggested, though it doesn't have the color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and micro-USB charging. <strong>$40</strong> with the current clickable coupon on Amazon, but usually <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own and use, and easy to buy. They score well on most measures flashlight nerds care about while also being beginner-friendly.</p>
<h1>About specs and considerations</h1>
<h2>Moved <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/specs">to the wiki</a> due to character limit</h2>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<h3>Keychain</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tubev2.0">Nitecore Tube 2.0</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$10</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.rovyvon.com/products/a3x?variant=30319955673191">Rovyvon Aurora A3x</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 20g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$33</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://sofirnlight.com/sc01-rechargeable-mini-keychain-light-10180-battery-included-p0155.html">Sofirn SC01</a> - neutral tint, 95 CRI, 330 lumen advertised max, which is sure to drop quickly because this runs on a tiny, but standardized and removable 10180 battery, which can be charged inside the light through a micro-USB port. This seems to be a continuation of the Cooyoo Quantum design that inspired many rebrands and derivatives. <strong>$17</strong> from Sofirn's site, shipped from China.</li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/iyp365/">Lumintop IYP365 Nichia 219C</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI (Nichia version only) and neutral white. This is a longer IYP07. Not as bright as a Ti4, but light quality is often more important for being able to see clearly. <strong>$19</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti4-max-252-lumen-penlight/">Thrunite Ti4</a> - 2xAAA - Neutral white available. High output for this form factor. <strong>$24</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mt06md">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. Similar to the IYP365 on paper, but many people prefer the tint of the 219B over the 219C. <strong>$32</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D - this is the AA/14500 version of the M200, without the mode customization feature. It's only offered bundled with a 14500. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$43</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t10-tailcap-magnetic-flashlight/">Thrunite T10 II</a> - a side-switch light supporting both AA and 14500 Li-ion batteries with shortcuts from off to high and low and a magnetic tailcap. Neutral white available and recommended. <strong>$24</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC53c-AA-Neutral-White-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_201.html">Zebralight SC53c</a> - 90+ CRI, warm-neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-archer-1a-v3/">Thrunite Archer 1A</a> - a dual-switch 1xAA light that can also use 14500. 200 lumens with AA, about 450 with 14500. <strong>$28</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://acebeam.com/tk16-2">Acebeam TK16</a> (SST-20 version only) - 95+ CRI, neutral white, <strong>tail</strong> e-switch with shortcuts to lowest, highest, and last-used, plus two mode groups so you can choose between sensible runtimes and impressing your friends with the 1250 lumen peak output. 0.5 lumen moonlight. Battery included, but you'll need a separate charger. If you were considering the Olight S1 line, get this instead. Also available in copper. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://wowtac.com/wowtac-w1-cw-edc-562-lumen/">Wowtac W1</a> - a basic light using a 16340 (CR123A won't work well, if at all) and USB charging. It only seems to come in cool white at the moment. Why is it here? Because it costs <strong>$20</strong> on US Amazon and should have Wowtac's usual solid built quality and accurate specs.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t1-magnetic-tailcap-pocket-flashlight/">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/html/dx3bmkii/index.html">Eagletac DX3B Mk II</a> - for those who might need to use a lot of light under stress, but want a more compact package than the average 18650 light. Mash the proud tailswitch and get 2500 lumens and 257m of throw; it always starts on high unless the sideswitch is also held, in which case it starts on low. An 18350 battery is included and the light has onboard micro-USB charging IlluminationGear has what looks to be a dealer exclusive option with an Osram White Flat LED for over 300m throw. Pricey at <strong>$95</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<p>This category is so popular it gets subcategories. If you're looking for a lot of power and runtime that's still possible to carry in most pants pockets, this is your battery.</p>
<h4>Dual-switch lights</h4>
<p>A tailswitch controls power, a sideswitch changes brightness. The ease of explaning the UI makes these perfect to hand out to others.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.eagletac.com/html/dx30lc2/index.html">Eagletac DX30LC2</a> - slimmer than most 18650 lights, with a unique take on the dual-switch interface: it always starts on high, unless the mode switch is held, in which case it starts on low. Longer throw than most in this size at 260m, neutral white available from some dealers. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/sp31-v20-xpl-hi-or-lh351d-5000k-4000k-tactical-flashlight-with-battery-and-charger-p0015.html">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - efficient driver and optional, recommended high-CRI LH351D LED for the very budget price of <strong>$24</strong> shipped from China.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone special edition) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side siwtch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). The Nichia 219C is a bit cooler with a fairly balanced beam profile, and the SST-20 is warmer with some more throw. <strong>$67</strong> by itself, or <strong>$77</strong> with a battery. $10 less for the 219C.</li>
</ul>
<h4>E-switch lights</h4>
<p>Electronic switches enable shortcuts from off to useful modes - usually lowest, highest, and last-used.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-tc15-2300-lumen-chargeable-edc-flashlight-18650-imr-battery-included/">Thrunite TC15</a> - like the Neutron in form, but trades battery flexibility for 2300 lumens turn-on output and replaces the ramping UI with fixed modes. <strong>$56</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m200-new-edition-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt M200</a> (high-CRI LH351D option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. Magnetic charging. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$43</strong> without a battery, <strong>$51</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZZ2YFKD?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$30</strong>. Now there's a choice of color temperatures with options as low as 2700K, but the original 5000K, similar to midday sunlight, is a reasonable default for those who don't know their preference.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-tk18-al?ref=9">Acebeam TK18</a> - a floody triple-emitter light with the E-switch on the tail. This resembles a more efficient and reliable version of the enthusiast-oriented Lumintop FW3A, or an 18650 version of Acebeam's smaller TK16. High-CRI Nichia 219C suggested. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l17?_pos=1&_sid=2fbeab5cc&_ss=r&variant=33102092828771&ref=9">Acebeam L17</a> - a compact thrower more suited to a jacket pocket than everyday carry like the rest of these but still quite compact for its 800m throw. This uses the tail-E-switch UI of the TK18. <strong>$60</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>Other by use case</h3>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.mankerlight.com/manker-e02-ii-420-lumens-aaa-10440-edc-flashlight-with-magnetic-tail-reversible-clip/">Manker E02 II</a> - 1xAAA or 1x10440 makes this the smallest on the list in this class. At 21g without battery and headband, I suspect even /r/ultralight will tolerate this, and the 95 CRI SST-20 (only in the neutral white option), users will be able to see detail. A magnetic tailcap expands the utility. <strong>$23</strong>, but note a headband is not included; that costs an extra $7.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-mini-rc-high-cri-4000k-samsung-lh351d?ref=9">Skilhunt H04 Mini RC</a> - 18350 battery and USB-magnetic charging with my favorite headband in the industry and optional high-CRI LH351D. This offers a floody TIR, less floody reflector (R model) or reflector with flippable diffuser (F model) offered for <strong>$50</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H53c-AA-Headlamp-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_194.html">Zebralight H53c</a> - All the Zebralight goodness described above for the SC64c LE, but in a right-angle, 1xAA form factor. The Cree XP-L2 may make a less attractive beam than the Samsung LH351D, but most people report Zebralight's optics smooth it out well. H53Fc for a frosted lens for a very even beam. This one even comes with a pocket clip, and the headband does not have the top strap the 18650 versions do. <strong>$59</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-th20-high-output-and-light-weight-aa-battery-led-headlamp/">Thrunite TH20</a> - 1xAA headlamp available in neutral white with infinite ramping and shortcuts from off to low/high. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h40?ref=9">Acebeam H40</a> with 95 CRI Luminus SST-20. This is very similar to the TH20, but trades having a good sub-lumen low for high CRI. It would be nice to have both in the same light, but for that, you'll need a soldering iron. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nu25">Nitecore NU25</a> - the other ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-th01-1500-lumen-cree-xhp50-18350-rechargeable-led-headlamp/">Thrunite TH01</a> - 1x18350 battery dedicated headlamp, 1500 lumens burst (450 stable). This is a USB-charged option without going to the larger 18650 battery. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://wowtac.com/wowtac-h01-cw-headlamp-614-lumens/">Wowtac H01</a> - 16340 battery (included), micro-USB charging without removing the battery, <strong>$20</strong>. This is here for the price and all-inclusive package.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-h04-high-cri-4000k-samsung-lh351d?ref=9">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. These now offer a high-CRI LH351D option, making it considerably more competitive. <strong>$44</strong>, or <strong>$52</strong> for the RC version with magnetic charging. Battery not included by default, but Skilhunt and dealers usually add one for less than $10.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZN5LJY/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A2/A2S</a> - a budget option, with a reflector. Both come with an 18650 that has a USB charge port right on the battery, but can be used with any 18650. The A2S also offers neutral white, which I recommend. <strong>$20/$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. H600d for non-frosted and a little more throw. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/panda-2m-cri/">YLP Panda 2M CRI</a> - 1x18650 dedicated headlamp, with high-CRI neutral white LH351Ds. Not the most efficient, but the light quality is great and with an 18650 battery, most people won't mind. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/th10-v2-rechargeable-throwing-headlamp/">Thrunite TH10 V2</a> - over 300m throw in a right-angle light for those who need it. USB charging, and battery included. A bit more bulky than most. Likely to disappear soon due to LED availability. <strong>$60</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t36?ref=9">Acebeam T36</a> - semi-pocketable, 2100 lumens, 303m FL1 throw, 21700 battery, USB-C charging, and now offered in 4000K neutral white. If this sounds like the alternative to the Olight M2R Pro you've been waiting for... it actually predated that light by about a year, then disappeared from the market. It's back now, and it deserves to sell better this time around. <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l30-ii?ref=9">Acebeam L30</a> - 4000 lumens from a single 18650 or 21700 (included). Neutral white available and recommended. High-CRI secondary emitter optional. Not the prettiest light, but there's <em>a lot</em> of it, and enough thermal mass to sustain it for a few minutes. Stable output without overheating is 2000 lumens. Forward-clicky tailswith is always max output, but the side switch has shortcuts to low and last-used. USB charging. <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l35?ref=9">Acebeam L35</a> - similar to the L30, but with more output and throw, especially with the LatticePower P70 LED option claiming 570m FL1 throw. No onboard charging on this model, which makes it more waterproof. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/eagletac-gx30l2-pro?ref=9">Eagletac GX30L2 Pro</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Neutral white with XHP35 HI recommended for more natural color and throw distance. Onboard charging. Neutral white optional. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected cells recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l18?ref=9">Acebeam L18</a> - this is the L35, but optimized for throw with 1000m FL1 throw and 1500lm output. This is probably a secondary light for most people for when something is too far for the primary light. <strong>$70</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-tc20-3800-lumen-flashlight/">Thrunite TC20</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 180 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. 3800 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://acebeam.com/x45-xhp702-version">Acebeam X45</a> - 4x18650, not pretty even in neutral white, but it makes 18,000 lumens. <strong>$180</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://sofirnlight.com/sp36-blf-anduril-with-3-batteries-p0023.html">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. Several options for color temperature exist, and batteries are usually bundled now, but not <em>always</em>. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. This replaces the BLF Q8 in the list due to the LEDs offered and USB-C charging, though the Q8 is easier to disassemble for those interested in modifications. <strong>$50</strong> from Sofirn's site, more from Amazon.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMQMLLG?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A4v2</a> - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging, 1982 lumens and 564m throw according to zeroair. The A4v2 isn't quite a pure thrower; it's more versatile than that. Boost driver for near-full output even when the battery is low and better performance in the cold - that's rare to see in the A4's price/performance category. <strong>$50</strong>, but check for coupons</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t27?_pos=1&_sid=ee2843885&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam T27</a> - 1x21700/18650. This is like a thrower version of the L30 duty light above, though its charging is USB-C, and oddly, it can act as a USB powerbank. Boost driver for full output on a low battery. 5000K recommended. 1180m FL1 throw. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$140</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.acebeam.com/t28">Acebeam T28</a> - it's a T27 with a bigger head and even more throw. There's not much more to say about it than that. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/tn42-led-searchlight/">Thrunite TN42</a> - 4x18650, 1550m FL1 throw advertised, 1700m observed by reviewers. <strong>$160</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k30-gt?_pos=1&_sid=8c07f94d5&_ss=r&variant=31817677504611&ref=9">Acebeam K30GT</a> - a hybrid, but leaning toward the throw side of things with 1km. 5500 lumens, but not for long due to heat. 3x18650. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k65-gt?_pos=1&_sid=b5b485350&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam K65GT</a> - 1.6km and 6500lm, but much bigger than the K30GT with 4x18650 batteries, giving it the ability to say bright longer without overheating. <strong>$240</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentlight.com/imalent-ms18-led-flashlight-cree-xhp70-2-led-max100000-lumens-intelligent-charging-for-outdoor-search-light.html">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. <strong>$500</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://viltrox.com/en/index.php?m=index&a=show&cid=152&id=106">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$34</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://viltrox.com/en/index.php?m=index&a=show&cid=152&id=197">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. Radio-based remote control. <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/CameraPlus-LituFoto-Beatiful-Portable-Smartphone/dp/B07L34FF2Y/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Litufoto F12</a> (AKA Viltrox FA-D10) - A smartphone-sized LED panel with 96+ CRI, adjustable color temperature, USB-C power (note: noncompliant, A-to-C only), and sealed Li-ion battery. 800 lumens on high with 80 minute runtime, 70 lumens lowest, adjusts in 5% increments. 65% output available continuously without draining the battery while plugged in. This would even be viable as floody EDC flashlight if it wasn't for the obnoxiously long press for on/off. <strong>$48</strong> on US Amazon</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/fw3a/">Lumintop FW3A</a> - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently <strong>five</strong> LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C <em>may</em> have more pleasant tint. <strong>Caution</strong>: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. Build quality and reliability may be a bit questionable, but these pack in a lot of features for the money. Several larger versions with higher output exist, but the original still makes the most sense to this list's maintainer. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/product/fw1a/">Lumintop FW1A</a> - an FW3A with fewer emitters (one) and more reflector (again, one, in place of the FW3A's TIR optic). Less output, more throw, less demanding on the battery. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2020 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This is almost a tail-e-switch D4, but it uses a variable linear driver that provides a bit better efficiency and more stable output as the battery drains as well as allowing brightness adjustment without PWM and enabling the use of ultra-low-voltage LEDs like the Nichia E21A. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. SST-20 4000K would probably still be my pick here because the E21A doesn't seem to play all that well with the Carclo quad optics. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962537117.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2c0f6d6c8d3Uey&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=8bd5503a-49ff-4e28-9f7b-19fe3dd3bfb5">Convoy S2+/219C</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. S2+ linked. S3 is similar, but with a removable steel bezel. S6 has a deeper reflector for a narrower spill and longer throw. The high-CRI Samsung LH351D Nichia 219C and Luminus SST-20 LEDs, in order of most output to most throw, are strongly recommended over the prior options. 219C 4000K will probably make the largest number of people happy. "Body color" is actually drive current. More 7135 chips means more power, which means more output, shorter battery life, and more heat. x6 is a reasonable choice that should never get too hot to hold. x3 or x4 for giving to people who will waste the battery. x8 for max output. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$15</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - Do you miss the Emisar D1? This is a jacket pocket light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. It's the <em>only</em> light I've ever seen offer a high-CRI Cree XP-L HI, which in this case is an incandescent-like 2850K. <strong>$50</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fasttech.com/product/9684301-authentic-haikelite-sc04-led-flashlight">Haikelite SC04</a> - 1x26650/2x26650, 4xSST-20. The neutral white option is 95+ CRI and about 3000 lumens with 500+ meters FL1 throw. Side e-switch with a ramping UI and shortcuts. 2x26650 configuration is probably suitable for thumping someone on the head for those who miss that aspect of the classic Maglite. Boost driver for stable output when the batteries are low. This replaces the Convoy L6 on the list due to its LED choice and switch position. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18-151.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$100</strong> - again, check the <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/us-warehouse-product.html">US warehouse</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SST40-W-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Mini-Torch-p-1420116.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6137984&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux FT03 SST-40</a> FET driver, SST-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 955m throw and 2313 lumens according to zeroair. There's also an XHP50.2 version that trades some of the throw for output. 5000K suggested. <strong>$34</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP35 HI. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$90</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01-Mini-7-SST20-5500LM-CRI95-Type-C-Rechargeable-Campact-EDC-Flashlight-26650-21700-18650-p-1560142.html?rmmds=buy&ID=5303946272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux MF01 Mini</a> - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port. <strong>$65</strong>, but check for active discounts</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/lumintop-blf-gt90-7000-lumens-high-intensity-flashlight-sbt90-p0061.html">BLF GT90</a> - A huge 8x18650 flashlight with a Luminus SBT-90.2 for over 7000 lumens and 2700m throw claimed, but that's going to be limited by heat and power. For sustainable performance, the original may have the advantage. For short bursts, this will be most impressive. <strong>360</strong>, but look for discounts</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>Notable revisions from the previous list:</p>
<ul>
<li>Wizard Pro 144A, Zebralight HI models, Catapult, IYP07, LD02, LD05, SP10S, Tool AA, HP30R, D4S, GT removed due to availability. XHP35 lights seem unlikely to be restocked due to the discontinuation of the emitter, so more removals seem likely as time goes on.</li>
<li>Added DX3B Mk II, E02 II, H01, H04 Mini, L35, L18, TK18, L17</li>
<li>TC12, Fenix HL10 removed as dated.</li>
<li>H604c/d removed as overly specialized.</li>
</ul>Review: Zebralight SC64c LE - my favorite everyday carry flashlight2020-11-29T00:00:00+00:002020-11-29T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-11-29:/sc64c-le.html<p>The Zebralight SC64c LE would be a serious contender for best everyday carry flashlight if flashlights were so one-dimensional that the idea of best made any sense. The SC64c LE combines excellent color rendering with compact size, a recessed switch that's easy to press on purpose and hard to press by accident, a capable user interface with shortcuts, sub-lumen low modes that preserve dark adaptation</p><p>This <a href="https://zebralight.3dcartstores.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> was purchased at full price from a dealer who did not know I was going to review it.</p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The Zebralight SC64c LE is a compact everyday carry flashlight powered by an 18650 battery using a 90+ CRI, 4000K Samsung LH351D LED. It costs 79 USD, and I have never seen it discounted. Zebralight does no marketing I'm aware of, sends out roughly two free samples to reviewers per decade, has no social media presence, never offers discounts, doesn't offer popular features like onboard charging, has few dealers, makes products widely regarded as visually unappealing, and doesn't chase high output numbers that drive sales. In spite of no apparent effort to sell lights, they do it so effectively that at any given time, half their inventory is backordered.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201129_020041774.jpg"></p>
<p>Zebralight channels all their effort into building what they believe are the best illumination tools they can build without much regard to what other companies are doing or what market trends seem to prefer at any given time. I, for one love the result. The size, ergonomics, color quality, and beam profile are ideal for pocket carry and everyday use for me. The lack of highly-overdriven turbo modes and onboard charging allow the light to be more compact and lighter weight, as well as improving reliability. Those may not be the right tradeoffs for everyone, but they're the right tradeoffs for me to the point that my main subjective criterion for evaluating any other EDC flashlight is "how often do I miss my Zebralight?"</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_050800204.jpg"></p>
<p>For size comparison, the T10 II is a fairly slim 1xAA light - that's half the battery volume.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_051706241.jpg"></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Specs</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x18650 (unprotected flat-top only)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Samsung LH351D</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>> 90</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>976lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>129m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>~560lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>976lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>143lm/W @ 203lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>5.2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>84mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>24.5mm (at the top of the switch shroud)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>38g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>85g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>No</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rating</td>
<td>★★★★★ (outstanding)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Highly efficient given the size and CRI</li>
<li>When the battery is low, the light drops to a 100 lumen reserve lasting roughly 90 minutes</li>
<li>Stable output in all modes above the reserve threshold, depending on temperature</li>
<li>Likely the best thermal regulation in the industry</li>
<li>Extremely compact and lightweight for the battery type</li>
<li>Recessed button is easy to find and hard to press by accident</li>
<li>Screwed-on clip makes the clip/button geometry consistent</li>
<li>User interface can be extremely simple, or fairly configurable</li>
<li>More neutral, less green tint than most 4000K LH351Ds</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Only unprotected flat-top batteries work, limiting compatibility of spares between lights</li>
<li>The UI can be a little awkward for some of the more advanced use cases</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The SC64c LE only comes one way. Other SC64 variants differ in the LED used as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>SC64 - Cree XHP35 5700K (unspecified CRI, probably 70)</li>
<li>SC64w - Cree XHP35 4500K 80 CRI</li>
<li>SC64w HI - Cree XHP35 HI 4500K 80 CRI (HI = more throw)</li>
<li>SC64c - Cree XP-L2 4000K 90 CRI (discontinued; replaced by LE)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The SC64c LE comes with spare O-rings and a user manual.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_050841607.jpg"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>High</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle L->M->H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Toggle sub-level, e.g. H1/H2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Battery check</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Sub-levels are memorized, so the High from a single-click may be H1 or H2 depending on which was used last. Loosening the tailcap a quarter turn locks out activation mechanically.</p>
<p>There are three configurable mode groups accessed by 5, 6, or 7 clicks from off and a programming system to set each mode to any of 12 brightness levels. That means the single-click action can be set to a medium mode and double-click set to a high mode, for example, but the firmware still considers the single-click mode to be <em>high</em> for the L-M-H cycle, resulting in a perceived L-H-M for the user. This can be awkward, as few people want to pass high to get medium.</p>
<p>The process of configuring mode groups and adjusting the thermal limit is detailed on the product page; I will not repeat it here.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Zebralight does not advertise intensity or throw. For this model, runtimes are not specified on the product page either. They do not specify how their outputs are measured. I use the FL1 standard, but my measuring tools are distinctly makeshift and I would be interested to see output measurements using higher-end calibrated instruments.</p>
<p>All measurements were taken using a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2C</td>
<td>0.05</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2B</td>
<td>0.17</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2A</td>
<td>0.62</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>1.9</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>158</td>
<td>7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2C</td>
<td>5.7</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>123</td>
<td>11</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2B</td>
<td>15.3</td>
<td>19</td>
<td>124</td>
<td>18</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2A</td>
<td>37</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>135</td>
<td>29</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>83</td>
<td>105</td>
<td>127</td>
<td>42</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2C</td>
<td>168</td>
<td>203</td>
<td>121</td>
<td>59</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2B</td>
<td>314</td>
<td>400</td>
<td>127</td>
<td>82</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2A</td>
<td>533</td>
<td>639</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>104</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>828</td>
<td>976</td>
<td>118</td>
<td>129</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Efficiency for modes without graphs is estimated from tailcap current. Battery capacity for modes with graphs is estimated from <a href="https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Sony%20US18650VTC6%203000mAh%20(Green)%20UK.html">this test</a>. Efficiency is not calculated for M2C and below because measurements of low output lack sufficient precision for a useful calculated value.</p>
<p>H1 was tested with a cooling fan. H2A and below were tested without a fan; H2A would have had slightly higher sustained output and less runitme with a fan. The thermal regulation adjusts continuously, attempting to maintain maximum output without overheating.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~13 years</td>
<td>23.5 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2C</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>169 days</td>
<td>0.74</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2B</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>113 days</td>
<td>1.1</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2A</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>59 days</td>
<td>2.11</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>21 days</td>
<td>5.83</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2C</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>10 days</td>
<td>12</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2B</td>
<td>19</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4 days</td>
<td>29</td>
<td>156</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2A</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 hours</td>
<td>75</td>
<td>159</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>105</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17 hours</td>
<td>176</td>
<td>142</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2C</td>
<td>203</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE H2c VTC6-5582593813633.png">graph</a></td>
<td>7 hours</td>
<td>8.5 hours</td>
<td>8.5 hours</td>
<td>325</td>
<td>143</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2B</td>
<td>400</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE H2B uncooled VTC6-90616248360935.png">graph</a></td>
<td>205 minutes</td>
<td>205 minutes</td>
<td>297 minutes</td>
<td>686</td>
<td>139</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2A</td>
<td>639</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE H2A uncooled VTC6-73294858274363.png">graph</a></td>
<td>125 minutes</td>
<td>125 minutes</td>
<td>223 minutes</td>
<td>1240</td>
<td>126</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>976</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE max fan VTC6-263227652494891.png">graph</a></td>
<td>56 minutes</td>
<td>60 minutes</td>
<td>60 minutes</td>
<td>2405</td>
<td>90</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The light drops to a ~100 lumen reserve (quite likely identical to M1) when the battery is low, and this typically runs for about 90 minutes on the remaining power. It is not included for H1, which may be unfair to Zebralight.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE max uncooled VTC6-559188391295253.png">H1, uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<h4>Cooling tests - H1, uncooled until a stable level is found, after which fan cooling is applied</h4>
<ul>
<li><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE max cooling test-572421527405028.png">Default limit</a></li>
<li><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE high-limit max cooling test-575488779770433.png">Highest limit</a></li>
<li><a href="static/photos/sc64c-le/SC64c LE low-limit max cooling test-580110856799263.png">Lowest limit</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Reading taken from the center spot diffused with DC Fix diffusion film using an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Color Temperature</th>
<th>Tint Duv</th>
<th>CRI</th>
<th>CRI R9 (deep red)</th>
<th>CRI R12 (deep blue)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>4714K</td>
<td>0.003998 (moderately green)</td>
<td>90.6</td>
<td>63.4</td>
<td>71.5</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Beamshots</h2>
<p>Zebralight sources tint bins of the LH351D that are less likely to have noticeable green tint than average. Sourcing specific bins is known to be difficult, so this choice, which I suspect contributes to the SC64c LE's frequent backorder status shows a significant committment to color/beam quality. The light is a very neutral 4000K, slightly rosy on high modes and slightly green on low modes, close in appearance to afternoon sunlight. Tint shift across the beam is minimal, and colors are very vivid.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/IMG_20201127_061548.jpg"></p>
<p>vs BLF 348 219B</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/IMG_20201129_025406.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Armytek Wizard Pro 144:</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/IMG_20201129_025425.jpg"></p>
<p>Outdoors</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/IMG_20201120_043832.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/IMG_20201121_043628.jpg"></p>
<p>There is no PWM or flicker on any mode. The lowest mode has a very slight ripple.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/IMG_20201127_061415.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>Zebralight uses press-fit construction and a head integrated into the body tube. Fit and finish are impeccable. The aluminum is anodized without dye, resulting in a grey-brown color that can differ slightly between samples. The resulting finish is extremely tough, and I've dropped mine onto hard surfaces several times with no scratching or chipping. Threads are conventional, smooth, and come heavily lubricated.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_051013336.jpg"></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>Ergonomics are one of the highlights of the SC64 series. The light provides sufficient grip without aggressive texture; the pocket clip is in a fixed position making it easy to always draw the light in a grip where the button can be found; the button is recessed, providing a tactile cue to its location and simultaneously preventing inadvertant activation. The felt size in the pocket is even smaller than the specs suggest, as excess material has been removed wherever possible.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_051149796.jpg"></p>
<p>Contact with a flat surface cannot press the button.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_053629018.jpg"></p>
<p>The trend in EDC gear lately has been toward deep carry pocket clips that make an item nearly flush. The SC64 series clip allows about 1cm of the flashlight to stick out of the pocket, which is exactly the amount I prefer for ease of access, but might bother some. There are aftermarket clips sold for the SC64 series, and clips for some knives also fit.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The SC64 series runs on a single unprotected flat-top 18650 battery. No other battery will work.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_051633716.jpg"></p>
<p>The reason, or perhaps culprit depending on your point of view is the use of pogo pin contacts for the positive terminal.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/sc64c-le/PXL_20201127_050934486.jpg"></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Aftermarket pocket clips and magnets glued to the tailcap are popular modifications for Zebralights, but changing the internals is quite difficult. I'm aware of one person offering emitter swaps, who goes by bob_bcbob on /r/flashlight and BLF. Various 3V emitters (for the SC64c LE) and different XHP35s (for the others) will work, with the Nichia 219B probably being the most popular option. The process involves a hot reflow of the entire driver, as there is no separate MCPCB.</p>Review: Skilhunt M150, a slim EDC flashlight with high output, great color rendering, USB-magnetic charging, magnetic tailcap and the ability to use AA batteries2020-11-28T00:00:00+00:002020-11-28T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-11-28:/skilhunt-m150.html<p>The Skilhunt M150 gets AA/14500 right in a way few competitors do, with good modes using either battery type, slim dimensions. ond o lew-veltoge shutoff for both battery types. Add to that magnetic charging for 14500, a high-CRI option, and a magnetic tailcap and the M150 is among my favorites.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/m150-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150 v2</a> was providen by Skilhunt for review. <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/?ref=9">Killzone Flashlights</a>, a Skilhunt dealer for the US facillitated the arrangement. Here's the <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/skilhunt-high-cri-5000k-m150-v2?ref=9">M150 at Killzone</a>. Those are affiliate links to Killzone, and my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" will get you 10% off.</p>
<p>For black friday weekend, code "BF30" takes <strong>30%</strong> off Skilhunt products at Killzone. The M150 is also significantly discounted at Skilhunt's own website.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_234710354.jpg"></p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The M150 is a medium-small everday carry flashlight using a single AA battery, or a Li-ion rechargeable 14500 battery, which is included. It has USB-magnetic charging for the 14500, low-voltage protection for both battery types, and well-spaced modes for either. Output for the LH351D version is 666lm on 14500 and a respectable 220lm on AA. A number of competing lights do not support 14500 well, often losing their low modes and having poor regulation and mode spacing, and the risk of rapidly over-discharging unprotected 14500s. The M150 supports both battery types equally well, gaining output in higher modes as well as capacity with third-party 14500s holding about a Watt-hour more energy than the highest-capacity NiMH AAs.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_234555712.jpg"></p>
<p>People don't traditionally cross-shop 1xAA and 1xCR123A lights especially often, as the CR123A previously offered higher performance, and many CR123A/16340 lights introduced in the past few years offer onboard charging. The latest 1000+ mAh 14500s match the capacity of a CR123A disposable under typical high-output flashlight loads, and exceed that of any 16340. Furthermore, the M150 matches the onboard charging of many of those lights while using a standard battery, unlike the proprietary battery found in the popular Olight S1R.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_233526425.jpg"></p>
<p>A criterion I've been applying to my <em>subjective</em> evaluation of any EDC light recently is how often I miss my Zebralight SC64c LE while carrying the light in question. That is, of course a considerably more expensive light with a larger battery. With the M150, it's very rare. I'd miss the larger 18650 battery if I needed high output for hours on end of course, but that's fairly rare for me in 2020, in part due to the pandemic. The only other issue that has made me wish I had my Zebralight instead of the M150 was an accidental activation, which the Zebralight's significantly more recessed switch would have prevented. In short, the M150 is absolutely an EDC favorite for me, and the light I reach for any time I want to carry something smaller than 18650.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Specs</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x14500 or 1xAA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Samsung LH351D</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>> 90</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>666 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>99 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>~310 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>622 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>134 lm/W @ 162 lm (14500), 142 lm/W @ 141 lm (AA)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>3.64</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>84mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>21mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>34g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>56g (14500), 60g (NiMH)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB to magnetic, battery charges in 100 minutes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port</td>
<td>Yes, all modes (battery will discharge in high modes)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port without battery</td>
<td>Yes, all modes (output of higher modes is less than with a battery)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>Yes, for both Li-ion and NiMH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Stable output (aside from stepdowns)</li>
<li>14500 and AA are equally well-supported</li>
<li>Magnetic charging with a standard battery</li>
<li>Comfortable UI in mode group B</li>
<li>Slim profile</li>
<li>Excellent efficiency given the size and CRI</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Loopover area of the pocket clip is too tight for thick pants</li>
<li>Switch is a little too easy to press by accident</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The M150 offers a choice between a high-CRI neutral white Samsung LH351D, or low-CRI Cree XP-L2 in cool or neutral white. The older M150 v1 has a user interface with less configurability.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The M150 includes a 14500 battery, magnetic charging cable, pocket clip, lanyard, spare O-rings, and user manual.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>There are two different UIs: mode group A, and B. A resembles Skilhunt's older products, while B is similar to UIs used by Acebeam, Olight, and Thrunite, but with more modes, and user control over what modes are available. Skilhunt uses L, M, H, and T 2 and 1 to designate the modes, in order of lowest to highest. Blinking modes are designated S 1-3.</p>
<h3>Mode Group A</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last used (except Turbo, Strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Low (last-used of L1, L2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo (last-used of T1, T2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo/strobe</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Toggle sub-mode (e.g. M1, M2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2S</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5S</td>
<td>Mode group B</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Mode group B</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used (except T1, S)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Lowest enabled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through steady modes (except T1)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>T1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Last-used strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle variable strobe, slow beacon, fast beacon</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2s</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 2S</td>
<td>Lowest enabled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5s</td>
<td>Mode group A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Config</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Note that while the lowest mode can be saved into memory, it is <em>not</em> saved when accessed using the shortcut from off.</p>
<p>Loosening the head or tailcap a quarter turn locks out activation mechanically.</p>
<h3>Config</h3>
<p>In config, the light will cycle through all the modes other than T1. If enabled, the indicator light under the switch will be on, and if not, the light will be off. Click once to toggle the active mode. The cycle will continue until interrupted by either a long-press to save the current settings, or a triple-click to reset to factory defaults.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with the low-CRI XP-L2 LED, which will have different performance characteristics from the high-CRI LH351D. They are included for reference, but slight reductions in output and throw are to be expected in exchange for the greatly improved color quality. Runtimes may also be slightly different due to forward voltage. I have omitted the percentage of claim columns I usually include for this reason.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_233458260.jpg"></p>
<h3>14500 battery</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is using the included Skilhunt 800 mAh 14500 battery. Testing was performed with a Vapcell H10 1000 mAh 14500 battery unless otherwise noted. Runtimes should be <strong>longer</strong> than advertised.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens (XP-L2)</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (XP-L2) (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>0.2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.8</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>1.5</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>4.9</td>
<td>5.4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>14</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>58</td>
<td>31</td>
<td>29</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>170</td>
<td>162</td>
<td>52</td>
<td>49</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>340</td>
<td>318</td>
<td>74</td>
<td>68</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>480</td>
<td>440</td>
<td>88</td>
<td>80</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>750</td>
<td>666</td>
<td>110</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~7 years</td>
<td>13.5 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 days</td>
<td>5.5</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3.6 days</td>
<td>10.5</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>27 hours</td>
<td>34.25</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>58</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 hours</td>
<td>127</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>162</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/m150/M150 H2 H10-137975785829184.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.6 hours</td>
<td>356</td>
<td>134</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>318</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/m150/M150 H1 H10-124333399514694.png">graph</a></td>
<td>48 minutes</td>
<td>87 minutes</td>
<td>121 minutes</td>
<td>732</td>
<td>130</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>440</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1060</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>666</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/m150/M150 max H10-117008210430206.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>75 minutes</td>
<td>1760</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Both Turbo modes have a timed stepdown to H1 for thermal reasons. It's 1 minute for T1 and 3 minutes for T2. </p>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 2450 mAh rechargeable AA battery. Testing was performed with a Panasonic Eneloop 1900 mAh AA battery unless otherwise noted. Runtimes should be <strong>shorter</strong> than advertised.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens (XP-L2)</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (XP-L2) (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>0.2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>1.5</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>10</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>45</td>
<td>42</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>26</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>91</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>38</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>150</td>
<td>141</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>47</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>240</td>
<td>220</td>
<td>61</td>
<td>59</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~17 years</td>
<td>4.5 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>167 hours</td>
<td>11.4</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>L1</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>80 hours</td>
<td>23.7</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M2</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>36 hours</td>
<td>53.2</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>M1</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H2</td>
<td>42</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3.8 hours</td>
<td>233</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>H1</td>
<td>91</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.3 hours</td>
<td>498</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T2</td>
<td>141</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/m150/M150 T2 Eneloop-5034968044773.png">graph</a></td>
<td>127 minutes</td>
<td>142 minutes</td>
<td>142 minutes</td>
<td>812</td>
<td>142</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T1</td>
<td>220</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/m150/M150 max uncooled Eneloop-43221384137417.png">graph</a></td>
<td>58 minutes</td>
<td>58 minutes</td>
<td>100 minutes</td>
<td>1460</td>
<td>123</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<p><a href="static/photos/m150/M150 max reset Eneloop-53149562818577.png">Eneloop voltage stepdown reset</a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The M150's beam is typical of a high-CRI LH351D in 5000K, which is to say sunlight-like on high and a little greenish on low, with minimal shift across the beam. Colors are visually vivid and accurate compared to other LEDs.</p>
<p>The M150 has no PWM flicker or detectable ripple on any mode.</p>
<p>vs BLF 348 219B</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/IMG_20201128_010304.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Zebralight SC64c LE (LH351D 4000K)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/IMG_20201128_010345.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia (144A 4500K)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/IMG_20201128_010406.jpg"></p>
<p>Outdoor</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/IMG_20201120_045413.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/IMG_20201121_044157.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The M150 shows no issues in its construction with good fit and reasonable tolerances. It survives immersion in water with no signs of ingress. The threads work reliably, but aren't as smooth as some of its competition.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_233609258.jpg"></p>
<p>The magnet in the tailcap is removable, but unlike 18650 Skilhunts, the M150 does not include a rubber spacer to replace it.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_233843575.jpg"></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The M150 is a slim light that's comfortable in the hand and pocket. The charging pad and switch are both raised relative to the rest of the body and easy to find by feel, even with gloves on. It's not necessarily easy to tell the switch and charging pad apart, but squeezing the two between thumb and forefinger reliably actuates the switch. The switch is recessed slightly below its bezel such that contact with a flat surface cannot press it, but actuation force is light and a soft or protruding surface can activate it fairly easily. This has only happened to me once, but I've read complaints from others.</p>
<p>The texturing on the body provides reliable grip. The pocket clip holds the light securely in the pocket and allows easy insertion and removal. It does not, however allow thicker pocket material into the loopover area, making it carry a little shallower than it appears in some pants.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201128_002237646.jpg"></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The M150 can run on a 14500 Li-ion rechargeable, of which an 800 mAh example is included, AA NiMH rechargeable, AA alkaline disposable, or AA lithium disposable. The 14500 may be charged internally with a USB-magnetic connector, which charges at about 0.8A. Fully charging the 14500 takes about 100 minutes. NiMH cannot be charged internally.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_235145362.jpg"></p>
<p>Using the included 14500 to power a slot powerbank to charge a third-party 14500 in the light as seen here is one of the worst ways I can think of to manage portable energy.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201127_235637859.jpg"></p>
<p>The M150 can run from USB power in all modes without a battery installed or the body of the light attached. What is seen here is again, probably not the best way to use these components.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201128_001724781.jpg"></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>An LED or optic swap in the M150 would be easy, as the bezel simply unscrews with no fuss, glue, or prying. The rectangular MCPCB is the only odd bit, making reflowing another 3535 size LED the easist option. LEDs like the Nichia 219B and Luminus SST-20 would work well in the M150.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/m150/PXL_20201128_000939989.jpg"></p>Review: Thrunite T2 - a highly-efficient 1x21700 flooder with USB-C2020-11-27T00:00:00+00:002020-11-27T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-11-27:/thrunite-t2.html<p>The Thrunite T2 is a 1x21700 flooder with the highest efficiency I've ever tested in a flashlight. It features USB-C charging, and can be put in a pants pocket in a pinch.</p><p>This <a href="https://thrunite.com/t2/">Thrunite T2</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. Use coupon code "2020" at <a href="https://thrunite.com">thrunite.com</a> for 20% off everything at the time this review is published. The T2 is also available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CB7V4WC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=zakwilson01-20">on Amazon</a> (affiliate link) from the official Thrunite store.</p>
<p><strong>Edit</strong>: December 1 - I got the bezel off and discovered the T2 is run at 12V, not 6V as I expected. That makes the <a href="https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68713">GT FC-40</a>, a high-CRI, domeless substitute for the XHP70 a viable swap. At least one BLF member has already done so with good results and I've ordered some of the emitters.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_035403343.jpg"></p>
<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>The T2 is a high-output 1x21700 flood light from Thrunite with USB-C charging. It is the most efficient flashlight in terms of lumens per watt that I have ever tested at 189lm/W in medium, taking the record from the Thrunite TC20 at 183. It's well suited to being a car light with its large battery and USB charging, as well as for household use, and carry in a holster or in a jacket pocket. It would make an excellent power outage light with its ability to light up a room all night in its medium mode. It may be more useful to many readers however to understand the T2 in terms of what it is not. While it has a usable pocket clip, it's not an everyday carry light for most people due to the weight and diameter. It's certainly not a hat light as shown in one of the product images. It's a light you bring when you <em>mean it</em>.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_035428174.jpg"></p>
<p>The light is well-executed for those who value efficient high-output over all else, but makes sacrifices in color and beam quality to get there, and I must repeat that it's <em>extremely</em> floody. It's more floody, for example than the Lumintop FW3A or Zebralight H600F series, and those lights have frosted/diffused optics. At arm's length, the T2 illuminates everything in view, but to see even large objects much past 100m requires use of the max mode, which can only be achieved with the battery near full in spite of the T2's boost driver. High is available until the battery is nearly empty, with flat output unless the light overheats, in which case it throttles to just under 1000 lumens. The included battery has an extra contact on the positive end, but the T2 does not use it. Standard 21700s may be used and charged in the light, but they must be sufficiently long to make contact reliably, and sufficiently thin to fit in the tube; some protected cells are tight. A spacer, such as a rare earth magnet makes shorter cells reliable.</p>
<p>Here are the full details on Thrunite's flood monster:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Specs</th>
<th>-</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Battery</td>
<td>1x21700 (protected for best fit)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LED</td>
<td>Cree XHP70.2</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Color rendering index</td>
<td>~70 (not specified)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output</td>
<td>4109 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max throw</td>
<td>159 m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max sustainable output</td>
<td>967 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max output at 50% battery</td>
<td>2202 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Best efficiency</td>
<td>189 lm/W @ 438 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Candela per lumen</td>
<td>1.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Length</td>
<td>112mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Head diameter</td>
<td>30.5mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight</td>
<td>87g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Weight with battery</td>
<td>168g</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Charging</td>
<td>USB C (A->C only), roughly 4 hours to fully charge</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port</td>
<td>Yes, single-mode, 50 lm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power from charge port without battery</td>
<td>Yes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low Voltage Protection (LVP)</td>
<td>2.80V</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Mechanical and electronic</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High output</li>
<li>Well-spaced modes</li>
<li>Highest efficiency I've tested in a flashlight so far</li>
<li>Fast charging</li>
<li>Compact size for a 21700 flashlight</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Low color rendering index</li>
<li>Significant tint shift across the beam</li>
<li>Not enough modes with such a large gap between highest and lowest (ramping would be good here)</li>
<li>Some compatibility issues with third-party batteries</li>
<li>Included battery does not fit in most standard chargers</li>
<li>Noncompliant USB-C requires an A->C cable</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The T2 comes in cool white or neutral white; this is the cool white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>Included accessories are a lanyard, spare O-rings, spare USB cover, pocket clip, holster, user manual, USB A->C cable, and battery.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_043502576.jpg"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>last-used (of low, medium, or high)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (except max)</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>firefly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (except firefly)</td>
<td>hold</td>
<td>cycle low/medium/high</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>triple click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>lockout</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The UI is similar to that found on older Thrunite models, but adds an electronic lockout. The electronic lockout means it's impossible to exit firefly and get low unless that was the last of the three medium modes used. I find the mechanical lockout more convenient to use.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Unless otherwise noted, advertised measurements are with the included 5000 mAh battery, and my measurements are with a Samsung 50E 5000 mAh 21700.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>117</td>
<td>14</td>
<td>14</td>
<td>100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>366</td>
<td>438</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>49</td>
<td>98</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1712</td>
<td>1940</td>
<td>113</td>
<td>107</td>
<td>106</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>3757</td>
<td>4109</td>
<td>109</td>
<td>158</td>
<td>159</td>
<td>101</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~16 years</td>
<td>34.4 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~3 months</td>
<td>2.2</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~4 days</td>
<td>53</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>438</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/t2/T2 med 50E-3336270204471.png">graph</a></td>
<td>7.5 hours</td>
<td>7.5 hours</td>
<td>7.5 hours</td>
<td>570</td>
<td>189</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1940</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/t2/T2 high fan 50E-61414412869094.png">graph</a></td>
<td>76 minutes</td>
<td>76 minutes</td>
<td>106 minutes</td>
<td>3077</td>
<td>157</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>4109</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/t2/T2 max fan 50e-466442906299426.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>86 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>158</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Accurately measuring maximum output on Turbo was not possible due to the increased resistance of a series ammeter reducing output. Current was approximately 6A for 3200lm.</p>
<p>An indicator light in the switch turns blue when the light is turned on with over 20% capacity remaining, red from 10-20%, and blinking red under 10%. The flashlight steps down, and eventually turns off at 2.8V, making the use of unprotected cells safe without any special attention to over-discharge.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="static/photos/t2/T2 max uncooled 50E-3941601796260.png">Turbo uncooled</a></li>
<li><a href="static/photos/t2/T2 high uncooled 50E-43275907464975.png">High uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The T2 uses a Cree XHP70.2. Its beam has the typical characteristics of that emitter: lots of light, with noticeable green tint, and a lot of tint shift across the beam. It's not pretty, but no single emitter commonly seen in flashlights matches its efficiency.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201126_005623.jpg"></p>
<p>vs BLF 348 219B</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201126_005712.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Zebralight SC64c LE (4000K LH351D)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201126_005743.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia (4500K 144A)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201126_005940.jpg"></p>
<p>Turbo</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201120_044516.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201121_043728.jpg"></p>
<p>High</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201121_043814.jpg"></p>
<p>For comparison, the Thrunite TC20 NW</p>
<p>Turbo</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201121_043931.jpg"></p>
<p>High</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/IMG_20201121_044002.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The build quality of the T2 is typical of Thrunite, which is to say there are no problems. There was no sign of water ingress after a brief immersion. The threads are smooth. The battery tube is anodized on the head side, but not the tail size, which is more convenient ergonomically for lockout.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The T2 improves on previous Thrunites by having a raised area around the switch and the charging port, making it easier to find the switch by feel. I even found it possible while wearing lightweight gloves, but not with heavy gloves. Grip is sufficient with bare hands, but not ideal with thicker, lower-traction gloves. The pocket clip is effective with most pants, but a bit tight at the top.</p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The T2 includes a proprietary battery based on a 21700, but with an extra contact added. It does not use this extra contact; it was included to support the TT20 which requires it. Most 21700 batteries can be used, however unprotected flat-top batteries are shorter than Thrunite intended and lose contact easily unless used with a spacer (rare earth magnets are suitable spacers that stay in place reliably). Furthermore, some protected batteries are too wide. A Nitecore 4000 mAh protected cell I tested required me to remove the head and tailcap to push the battery out.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_035857120.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_035947421.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_035736933.jpg"></p>
<p>The length of the any protected 21700 prevents it from fitting in many slot chargers. The plastic ring around the positive terminal prevents it from making contact with almost all.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_035647403.jpg"></p>
<p>Charging is USB A-to-C only and takes about 4 hours for a full charge from a power supply that can deliver 3A. Unfortunately for the T2, USB-C-only power supplies are becoming m ore common, such as this one that came with my phone.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/t2/PXL_20201127_040149140.jpg"></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The T2's bezel is glued shut, but can be opened with a strap wrench and some determination. I was surprised to discover it's running at 12V, making the <a href="https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68713">GT FC-40</a> a viable emitter swap, which was just confirmed to work in a post in the linked BLF thread. This emitter greatly increases the appeal of the T2 for me, and I have some on the way to try out.</p>
<p>Other variants of XHP70 would surely work well, and it's possible more exotic options such as an array of Nichia E21A wired for 12V. More exotic and likely viable is four 3V LEDs wired in a 4S configuration with a quad optic like the Carclo 1062x series.</p>
<p>It's likely possible to solder a spring to the brass button used as a positive contact and improve support for unprotected batteries.</p>Review: Nitecore MH10 v2 - an all-purpose rechargeable light that's very versatile about batteries2020-10-09T00:00:00+00:002020-10-09T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-10-09:/nitecore-mh10v2.html<p>The Nitecore MH10 v2 is a general-use flashlight powered by a 21700 Li-ion rechargeable battery, with onboard USB charging, and the ability to use a great many different sizes of Li-ion cells.</p><p>This <a href="https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/mh10v2">Nitecore MH10 v2</a> was providen by Nitecore for review.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20201009_073551.jpg"></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The MH10 v2 is a general-purpose utility flashlight with USB-C charging and a 21700 battery as well as the ability to use several other Li-ion battery sizes. It has moderate output, decent throw and a low probability of doing anything dangerous, making it well-suited for non-expert users. This is a light suited to use around the house or in a vehicle, in a bag or jacket as a backup to a smaller everyday carry light, or carried in a holster for professional use.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20201009_073524.jpg"></p>
<p>In a market dominated by lights designed around pushing performance extremes, this is refreshingly practical, and a perfect contrast to Nitecore's entry into the other end of that spectrum, the TM10K, which can make 10,000 lumens for 7 seconds while (arguably) fitting in a pants pocket. The MH10 v2 has a fairly long usable range at moderate output combined with a big battery, making it suited to extended use. This is a tool, not a toy.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The MH10 v2 manages to fit a 21700 battery in a tube with an outer diameter of 25mm. That's an important dimension because many 18650-powered flashlights and related accessories are that diameter, and will likely fit this light. It does not strive for compactness in the other dimension however, with a length of 147mm. Pocket carry requires deep pockets, and some tolerance for weight at about 150g with a 21700 battery installed.</p>
<p>The user interface is largely similar to that used by Acebeam, Olight, and Thrunite for single-e-switch lights, however a double-click is strobe rather than high as on much of its competition. Lack of a shortcut to high is a disadvantage, and it's compounded by the likelihood of accidental strobe. I'm happy to see more brands adopting similar UIs, and I'd like to see that standardization go just a bit farther. Matching the UI of other popular lights would suit the MH10 v2 especially well in the role of a secondary light.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200917_014721_HDR.jpg"></p>
<p>The charging port is USB-C, and unlike much of the flashlight market, it's <em>standards-compliant</em> USB-C - at least I think it is. I don't have the equipment for a proper test, but it charges from C-to-C using several power supplies I have, while many USB-C lights require A-to-C. An indicator light under the switch blinks out the battery voltage when the tailcap is first tightened.</p>
<p>Most of the conservative design decisions of the MH10 v2 make it a better tool for most users than many of the more extreme lights on the market, but the choice of LED is a bit too conservative. Mainstream flashlights have been using cool white emitters from Cree for a long time, but that's starting to change, and a 6500K XP-L2 is not the most competitive emitter available in 2020. As with the other flip-chip designs from Cree, including the XP-G3 and XHP.2 series, the XP-L2 produces ugly beams in most optics, with significant tint shift across the beam. Nitecore's smooth reflector is no exception, and the tint shift in combination with a very cool color temperature and low color rendering index results in illumination that's a liability where color is a significant part of what the user is trying to see.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20201009_185727.jpg"></p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>I've observed no functional issues with the MH10 v2. The build quality is fine, though a small nick in the finish after some carry suggests it will show more visible wear over time than some lights. It does exactly what it sets out to do, and the only surprises have been positive.</p>
<p>One of those surprises is that the thermal regulation steps up in a reasonable manner when the body of the flashlight is cooled following a stepdown. Few lights do this, and a <em>majority</em> of those I've seen attempt it did it very badly. Less surprising is that efficiency is high, and there's no PWM or significant ripple.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200917_014846_767.jpg"></p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>The MH10 v2 is a fine general-purpose light for most people, especially those who use Li-ion lights in other sizes and want the option of sharing spare batteries between lights. I'm not a fan of double-click as a shortcut to strobe though, and I'd really like to see a different LED, like a Samsung LH351D in 5000K, 90 CRI. Nitecore has offered high-CRI editions of other lights, and this one would be a good candidate.</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Battery versatilility</li>
<li>2A USB-C charging, including C-to-C</li>
<li>Good thermal regulation, including step-up when cooled</li>
<li>Compatible with 25mm accessories while using a 21700 battery</li>
<li>Very low standby power consumption</li>
<li>High efficiency</li>
<li>Capable of full output until the battery is below 50% charged</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Cool white, low-CRI</li>
<li>Significant tint shift across the beam</li>
<li>Significant green corona</li>
<li>No shortcut to high; accidental strobe for users accustomed to double-click for high</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The MH10 v2 only comes one way.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>Accessories included with the MH10 v2 are a 4000 mAh protected 21700 battery, a spacer for using 18650 and smaller batteries, a USB A-to-C cable, a spare O-ring, a lanyard, a pocket clip, and a holster.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20201009_073812.jpg"></p>
<p>The holster is a polymer design that adjusts to different belt sizes with a removable spacer, and does not cover the lens. The light can be operated in the holster if rotated to a position that exposes the button.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Single-click</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Ultralow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Single-click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle strobe/beacon/SOS</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>This UI resembles that used by Acebeam, Olight, and Thrunite, but gives up the shortcut to high in favor of a double-click to strobe.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Tests were conducted using a Samsung 50E 5000 mAh 21700 battery unless otherwise noted. Battery capacity is based on [this test](https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR21700-50E%205000mAh%20(Cyan)%20UK.html)</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Ultralow</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>55</td>
<td>53</td>
<td>96</td>
<td>42</td>
<td>41</td>
<td>98</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>330</td>
<td>110</td>
<td>102</td>
<td>104</td>
<td>102</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1200</td>
<td>1170</td>
<td>98</td>
<td>202</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>99 years</td>
<td>5.6 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Ultralow</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>65 days</td>
<td>3.1</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>55</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>45 hours</td>
<td>107</td>
<td>122</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>330</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/mh10v2/MH10 med 50E-22165296961241.png">graph</a></td>
<td>7 hours</td>
<td>7 hours</td>
<td>7.7 hours</td>
<td>612</td>
<td>132</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1170</td>
<td><a href="static/photos/mh10v2/MH10 max fan 50E-65650905129744.png">graph</a></td>
<td>3.5 minutes</td>
<td>97 minutes</td>
<td>97 minutes</td>
<td>3290</td>
<td>88</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>30 second output with the battery discharged to 3.7V was still 1170 lumens, though battery charge does affect maximum output as it discharges further.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="static/photos/mh10v2/MH10 max uncooled 50E-79870181043574.png"">High uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>This is a cool white Cree XP-L2 in a smooth reflector. Flashlight nerds already know what this means, but for everyone else, the coloration of the beam somewhat resembles a bruise. Colors are washed out, and in some parts of the beam, significantly distorted. There are not significant artifacts otherwise, and the combination of distinct hotspot, large corona, and spill extended beyond that make for a useful beam shape. There is no PWM or ripple detectable in any mode.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200904_040006.jpg"></p>
<p>versus BLF 348 219B</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200904_040208.jpg"></p>
<p>versus Armytek Wizard Pro 144A</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200904_040307.jpg"></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200901_015656.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200901_021621.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>Constuction of the MH10 v2 is typical of 1x18650 tube lights with one notable exception: the springs on both ends of the battery tube are longer than typical, and provide significant tension for reliable use of a variety of battery sizes. The light is waterproof as long as the USB cover is closed, though the port does not seem to be sealed aginst ingress when open, as some Nitecore models have been.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200825_192509_333.jpg"></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The MH10 v2 is a tube light with light checkering on the tailcap and midsection. It provides reliable grip without being aggressive. The sideswitch is slightly raised, making it possible to find by feel with bare hands (not with gloves), but also possible to press by pushing the light against a flat surface. I have not experienced an accidental activation.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200917_015802_HDR.jpg"></p>
<p>It's possible to pocket-carry the light, and the loopover pocket clip carries fairly deep with only about 1cm sticking out of the pocket on a light nearly 15cm long. </p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The MH10v2 includes a 4000 mAh protected 21700 battery. It can use and charge any 21700, as well as any 18650, and presumably any 16650. It can run from, but not charge 2x18350, 2x16340, and 2xCR123A (disposable). There's some rattle using 18650 and smaller batteries without the included adapter, however they still function reliably.</p>
<p>Protected 21700s are very long and only fit in a few slot chargers.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20200819_063149.jpg"></p>
<p>Shown here is a non-exhaustive seleciton of battery options to power the MH10 v2.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/mh10v2/IMG_20201009_073950.jpg"></p>
<p>Using the onboard charging with an LVSun 110W USB power supply, it took 4 hours to charge a Samsung 50E from the MH10 v2's low-voltage shutoff. The included battery has less capacity and should charge a bit faster. The battery was at 4.14V after charging anwd a few minutes to rest, which is correct termination for Li-ion. There's low-voltage protection around 2.8V per cell for single and dual cells.</p>
<p>The light does not operate when powered by USB, with or without a battery installed.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I broke a strap wrench trying to get the bezel off, after a couple dips in boiling water. The glue used on this light is impressive, and likely precludes any changes to the LED, reflector, or driver without risking damage.</p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Summer Solstice 20202020-06-23T00:00:00+00:002020-06-23T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-06-23:/arbitrary-list-2020-1.html<p>Happy Summer Solstice! This is the perfect day to pick a new flashlight, and this list may include the best flashlight for you (there is no objective best).</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Summer Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is a couple days after (sorry!) the day you're <strong>least</strong> likely to need a flashlight north of the equator, but it increases every day after so it's a good time to buy a flashlight.</p>
<p>Because a definitive buyer's guide is too hard, I've made an arbitrary list of popular lights you should consider if you're shopping for a light. There is no best flashlight, so this is not the last word in what's good, but a list of lights that are often bought or recommended here with a touch of my own opinion thrown in. Exclusion from this list doesn't mean a light isn't good. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Where available, this version of the list uses <strong>affiliate links</strong> that result in fees paid to the author for certain purchases made after clicking them. A version of this list without any affiliate links is <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/">on reddit</a>. That version was written <em>first</em> in an attempt to avoid bias.</p>
<p>Shipping/availability may be affected by the COVID-19 pandemic. In particular, items shipped from China are often taking 2 months to arrive. Supply chains and warehouse stock also appear to be disrupted as well, so you may have to be more patient than usual if you want certain flashlights, chargers, and batteries.</p>
<h1>For those in a hurry</h1>
<h3>If you don't want to learn much, just get one of these.</h3>
<p>All of the lights in this section come with a rechargeable battery and have a charger built in to the light. The battery will be a standard size you can buy online from third parties, and the charger will use USB as its power source, though some options do use a special cable. Aside from the Catapult, all have very good color quality compared to the average LED flashlight, improving your ability to see details.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZZ2YFKD?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - a general-use light for <strong>$30</strong>. USB-C charging, but it needs to use an A-to-C cable. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. 18650 battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product/m150-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D LED option - a smaller light with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. <strong>$40</strong>, and sometimes available on Amazon, but not always with the right LED, which is important since the color and beam quality of the other options is poor. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-pro-nichia-magnet-usb?_pos=3&_sid=ec5721acc&ref=9">Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144A</a> - a combination handheld flashlight, headlamp, and magnetic work light with high output and excellent color quality. An 18650 battery is included, and it uses USB/magnetic charging, which is a bit slow, but convenient otherwise. It's <strong>$90</strong>, but try coupon code "reddit" for a discount. I've linked Killzone Flashlights here rather than the manufacturer because the manufacturer's customer service is rather poor, and Killzone's is good. European buyers should consider <a href="https://eu.nkon.nl/zaklampen/brands/armytek-flashlights/armytek-wizard-pro-v3-nichia-magnet-usb-warm.html">Nkon</a> and coupon code "AT25%off".</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31166468423779&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a>, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. If you're thinking of a handheld light to accompany a pistol, this is a great option because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). <strong>$77</strong> with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Excluded/dp/B07KFF5BGZ?tag=zakwilson01-20/">Sofirn SP36</a> (Anduril/LH351D version) - with three 18650 batteries and a <strong>$71</strong> price tag, this is a larger, more powerful, and longer-running light than the others in this section. It has USB-C (A-to-C only) charging. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Catapult-V6-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B07C7PVXTS?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult V6</a> in neutral white - for seeing far away. You can spot large objects with this at 750m, and see in reasonable detail at half that. The color quality here is only average, but neutral white will look a little more natural, and have less visible backscatter than cool white. MicroUSB charging and a 26650 battery is included. <strong>$75</strong>, but coupon code "20%" does exactly what you think.</li>
</ul>
<p>These are at the top of the list not because they're the <em>best</em> in some objective sense, but because they're easy to own and use, and easy to buy. They score well on most measure flashlight nerds care about while also being suitable for non-enthusiasts.</p>
<h1>Some things to consider when shopping</h1>
<p>Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:</p>
<ul>
<li>Neutral white tint - the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/5yjqcr/poll_preferred_color_temperature/">vast majority</a> of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"</li>
<li>A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges</li>
<li>A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off</li>
<li>A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes</li>
<li>An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer</li>
<li>A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway</li>
<li>Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60236">99</a>. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.</li>
<li>A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)</li>
<li>A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes</li>
<li>A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off.</li>
</ul>
<h1>About specs</h1>
<p>Lumens are total output. Don't worry about small differences in output. You probably can't detect a 10% difference in lumens with your eyes, and 20% is barely noticeable. It takes 4 times the lumens to look twice as bright. Candela is intensity, which translates to throw distance. FL1 throw numbers are about right for detecting large objects; cut them in half for seeing clearly. Extreme throw distances also run in to limits imposed by human vision and by backscatter in the atmosphere. Warmer tints have less backscatter.</p>
<p>FL1 runtime numbers are to 10% output and can be misleading. Look for a review with a runtime graph.</p>
<p>Performance specs for AA and AAA powered lights are usually given with NiMH rechargeable batteries. Alkalines don't perform as well, and may leak corrosive electrolyte.</p>
<p>If you want something particularly powerful or long-lasting, you should probably skip right to the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/18650">18650</a>, 21700, and 26650 powered lights. These larger Li-ion rechargeable batteries significantly outperforms other options, especially alkalines.</p>
<hr>
<p>Lights in the mainstream section are generally stocked at dealers in the US and EU, probably have a warranty of some sort if they cost more than $50, often come with a battery and have onboard charging, and should have a low rate of defects or anything the user needs to tweak. Lights in the mainstream section are <em>usually</em> fairly simple to operate without much configurability, but there are a couple exceptions.</p>
<p>Lights in the enthusiast section often ship from China, may have safety concerns, might need calibration or adjustment to work correctly, etc.... Enthusiast lights often offer exceptional performance under certain circumstances, and opportunities for customization. These often have open source firmwares you can rewrite to your liking (given sufficient programming skill), but may be easy to configure right into an unusable state.</p>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<h3>Keychain</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Keychain-Light-Pocket-Flashlight/dp/B00XRHPOLS?tag=zakwilson01-20">Nitecore Tube</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$9</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Keychain-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Charging/dp/B082XQ3QVW?tag=zakwilson01-20">Rovyvon Aurora A3x</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 20g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. Other Nichia Rovyvons are similar, offering different body materials, sizes, and sometimes colored LEDs on the sides. <strong>$33</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/iyp07.html">Lumintop IYP07</a> - a 1xAAA tailswitch option with three modes (5, 40, 130 lumens), three colors (black, silver, pink), and two LED options, of which only the neutral white, high-CRI Nichia 219C is worth considering. <strong>$22</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Penlight-Rendering-Diagnostic-Waterproof/dp/B07C9XP692?tag=zakwilson01-20">Lumintop IYP365 Nichia 219C</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI (Nichia version only) and neutral white. This is a longer IYP07. Not as bright as a Ti4, but light quality is often more important for being able to see clearly. <strong>$19</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/neutral-pen-type-flashlight-EdisonBright-battery/dp/B07H2SRQTD?tag=zakwilson01-20">Fenix LD02 2.0</a> (warm white version) - 1xAAA, tailswitch, warm white, high-CRI, and a UV secondary. 1 lumen low, 70 lumens high. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/fenix-ld05-v2-0?_pos=1&_sid=36a8c0798&_ss=r&ref=9">Fenix LD05 2.0</a> (warm white version) - 2xAAA, 100lm max, and the same features as the above. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WWPFWMM?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Ti4</a> - 2xAAA - Neutral white available. Titanium sometimes available. High output for this form factor. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-MT06MD-Nichia-2Xaaa-Penlight/dp/B06XKDKJ1W/">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. Similar to the IYP365 on paper, but many people prefer the tint of the 219B over the 219C. <strong>$30</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D - this is the AA/14500 version of the M200, without the mode customization feature. It's only offered bundled with a 14500. The onboard charging works with any 14500, but won't charge NiMH AA inside the light. There's low-voltage protection for both battery types, so unprotected 14500s are OK. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t10-tailcap-magnetic-flashlight/">Thrunite T10 II</a> - a side-switch light supporting both AA and 14500 Li-ion batteries with shortcuts from off to high and low and a magnetic tailcap. Neutral white available and recommended. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC53c-AA-Neutral-White-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_201.html">Zebralight SC53c</a> - 90+ CRI, warm-neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Archer-2A-Neutral-Flashlight/dp/B00FB8P4N4?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Archer 1A</a> - a dual-switch 1xAA light that can also use 14500. 200 lumens with AA, about 450 with 14500. <strong>$28</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofirn-SP10S-LED-Flashlight-AA-14500-Pocket-Light-90-CRI-LH351D-800lm-Keychain-Light-Tactical-Torch/33018725012.html">Sofirn SP10S</a> - 1xAA/1x14500, 90+ CRI with a Samsung LH351D LED and black, blue, or red body color. Slightly awkward UI with a long-press to turn off, but it may be worth it for the low price and high color quality. <strong>$16</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.illumn.com/lumintop-tool-aa-2-0-lumens-aa-14500-nichia-219c-edc-flashlight.html">Lumintop Tool AA 219C</a> - 1xAA/1x14500 and a 90 CRI Nichia 219C. There's a Cree XP-L version of this that isn't so compelling, so I've linked Illumn rather than the manufacturer, but it may be available elsewhere. <strong>22</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/collections/home-page-collection/products/acebeam-tk16-aluminum?variant=28374213820515&ref=9">Acebeam TK16</a> (SST-20 version only) - 95+ CRI, neutral white, <strong>tail</strong> e-switch with shortcuts to lowest, highest, and last-used, plus two mode groups so you can choose between sensible runtimes and impressing your friends with the 1250 lumen peak output. 0.5 lumen moonlight. Battery included, but you'll need a separate charger. If you were considering the Olight S1 line, get this instead. Also available in copper. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/WOWTAC-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Magnetic-Keychain/dp/B085NHJ2YW?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac W1</a> - a basic light using a 16340 (CR123A won't work well, if at all) and USB charging. It only seems to come in cool white at the moment. Why is it here? Because it costs <strong>$20</strong> on US Amazon and should have Wowtac's usual solid built quality and accurate specs.</li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t1-magnetic-tailcap-pocket-flashlight/">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
</ul>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<p>This category is so popular it gets subcategories. If you're looking for a lot of power and runtime that's still possible to carry in most pants pockets, this is your battery.</p>
<h4>Dual-switch lights</h4>
<p>A tailswitch controls power, a sideswitch changes brightness. The ease of explaning the UI makes these perfect to hand out to others.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/eagletac-dx30lc2?_pos=1&_sid=a272b5109&_ss=r&ref=9">Eagletac DX30LC2</a> - slimmer than most 18650 lights, with a unique take on the dual-switch interface: it always starts on high, unless the mode switch is held, in which case it starts on low. Longer throw than most, neutral white available from some dealers. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Micro-USB-Interface-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B01M3TSBB6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC12</a> - essentially a TN12 with USB charging, a thermal sensor to limit temperature, low-voltage protection and a battery included. <strong>$56</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sofirnlight.com/sp31v2-samples-tim-p0101.html">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> - efficient driver and XP-L HI emitter for more throw than most lights in this class. Cool white only, unfortunately, but a good value with the features of the Fenix PD32 at half the price. <strong>$37</strong> with battery and charger on US Amazon. <strong>$21</strong> without accessories on Sofirn's own site, but shipping from China is likely to take more than a month.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone special edition) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side siwtch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). The Nichia 219C is a bit cooler with a fairly balanced beam profile, and the SST-20 is warmer with some more throw. <strong>$67</strong> by itself, or <strong>$77</strong> with a battery. $10 less for the 219C.</li>
</ul>
<h4>E-switch lights</h4>
<p>Electronic switches enable shortcuts from off to useful modes - usually lowest, highest, and last-used.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64w-HI-18650-XHP35-Neutral-White-High-Intensity-Flashlight_p_232.html">Zebraligh SC64w HI</a> - the above, trading some color quality for more output and throw. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLKWQBR?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC15</a> - like the Neutron in form, but trades battery flexibility for 2300 lumens turn-on output and replaces the ramping UI with fixed modes. <strong>$56</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m200-new-edition-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt M200</a> (high-CRI LH351D option recommended) - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. Magnetic charging. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$43</strong> without a battery, <strong>$51</strong> with.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZZ2YFKD?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$30</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>Other by use case</h3>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H53c-AA-Headlamp-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_194.html">Zebralight H53c</a> - All the Zebralight goodness described above for the SC64c LE, but in a right-angle, 1xAA form factor. The Cree XP-L2 may make a less attractive beam than the Samsung LH351D, but most people report Zebralight's optics smooth it out well. H53Fc for a frosted lens for a very even beam. This one even comes with a pocket clip, and the headband does not have the top strap the 18650 versions do. <strong>$59</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TH20-faro-delantero-lúmenes/dp/B01FCV32SI?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TH20</a> - 1xAA headlamp available in neutral white with infinite ramping and shortcuts from off to low/high. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h40?_pos=1&_sid=768362374&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam H40</a> with 95 CRI Luminus SST-20. This is very similar to the TH20, but the low isn't quite as low and the color rendering is better. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=75&tid=27&cid=2">Fenix HL10</a> - a 1xAAA headlamp that weighs 40 grams with a lithium battery. It's here so /r/ultralight doesn't feel left out, as I would recommend something with a larger battery for a primary headlamp. This would make a good backup. Two is one. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-NU25-Lumen-Triple-Output/dp/B077Z3LNX9?tag=zakwilson01-20">Nitecore NU25</a> - the other ultralight option. Sealed Li-ion pouch cell, so no carrying spares, and it's effectively disposable when the battery wears out. The primary emitter is cool white and low-CRI, but there's a high-CRI secondary. Some sacrifices must be made for a weight of 28g. <strong>$36</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Rechargeable-Headlight-Flashlight-Lightweight/dp/B07ZTFTS9J?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TH01</a> - 1x18350 battery dedicated headlamp, 1500 lumens burst (450 stable). This is a USB-charged option without going to the larger 18650 battery. If it sounds like a headlamp version of the T1, that's not far off. <strong>$46</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Hands-Free-Highway-Shoulder-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B07FSLLJJ1?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt H04RC</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are sometimes available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. This version has USB/magnetic charging and includes a battery. Base models are cheaper. <strong>$58</strong> as configured</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZN5LJY?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A2/A2S</a> - another budget option, this time with a reflector. Both come with an 18650 that has a USB charge port right on the battery, but can be used with any 18650. The A2S also offers neutral white, which I recommend. <strong>$20/$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600w-Mk-IV-18650-XHP35-Neutral-White-Headlamp_p_215.html">Zebralight H600w IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - the above with 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H604d-18650-XHP502-Flood-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_224.html">Zebralight H604d</a> - the H600Fd with no reflector and a clear lens for a very floody, perfectly even beam. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H604c-18650-XHP502-Flood-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_223.html">Zebralight H604c</a> - if you've read the above, this needs no explanation. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/panda-2m-cri/">YLP Panda 2M CRI</a> - 1x18650 dedicated headlamp, with high-CRI neutral white LH351Ds. Not the most efficient, but the light quality is great and with an 18650 battery, most people won't mind. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Rechargeable-Headlamp-Outdoor-camping/dp/B07K6P1CBB?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TH10 V2</a> - over 300m throw in a right-angle light for those who need it. USB charging, and battery included. A bit more bulky than most. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-pro-nichia-magnet-usb?_pos=3&_sid=ec5721acc&_ss=r&ref=9">Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144A</a> - this light was my idea. After reviewing the Wizard Pro XHP50, I convinced them to put a 90 CRI, 4500K Nichia 144A in it. It took a couple years, but they did, and it is glorious. The Wizard Pro is the most versatile light I own, and the one I'd keep if I could only keep one. The first batch of these had some battery safety issues (broken low-voltage protection), but that's fixed now. I suggest buying from a dealer like Killzone or Nkon, and checking for coupon codes for those dealers because Armytek's customer service and shipping are questionable. <strong>$90</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?_pos=1&_sid=739ef0073&_ss=r&variant=12751391096931&ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-rechargeable-Rechargeable-Batteries-Organizer/dp/B072N61TYQ?tag=zakwilson01-20">Fenix HP30R</a> - 2x18650 batteries in a remote holder that can be worn under a jacket. This is probably the most reliable battery option for extreme cold environments as the batteries can be kept warm. The battery case features USB charging and can be used as a USB powerbank. There are flood and spot emitters, which make 750 and 1000 lumens respectively, and can be used together for 1750 lumens. This is the heaviest headlamp on the list by far, but much of the weight is in the battery pack. <strong>$130</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l30-ii?_pos=1&_sid=cd04ca3bd&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam L30</a> - 4000 lumens from a single 18650 or 21700 (included). Neutral white available and recommended. High-CRI secondary emitter optional. Not the prettiest light, but there's <em>a lot</em> of it, and enough thermal mass to sustain it for a few minutes. Stable output without overheating is 2000 lumens. Forward-clicky tailswith is always max output, but the side switch has shortcuts to low and last-used. USB charging. <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/eagletac-gx30l2-pro?_pos=1&_sid=79b528aa6&_ss=r&variant=12644428185699&ref=9">Eagletac GX30L2 Pro</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Neutral white with XHP35 HI recommended for more natural color and throw distance. Onboard charging. Neutral white optional. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected cells recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/olight-m2rvn-olights-excellence-r">Skylumen M2Rvn</a> - about that neutral white... and it gains over 100m of throw in the process by switching to the XHP35 HI. This is a modified Olight M2R with different warranty terms from the original, so read those carefully. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.eagtac.com/html/t25v/index.html">Eagletac T25V</a> - a 21700-powered duty light with USB-C charging and battery included. Twist the head for output selection between three configurable levels with the light on or off, so it can be left locked in high. 2600 lumens and 214m throw with the XHP70.2, or 1640 lumens and about 400m throw with the XHP35 HI. The latter emitter in neutral white does the most to make this light stand out from its peers, if you can find it that way. This is a good alternative if the Olight M2R Pro looks appealing or you missed out on the Acebeam T36.<strong>$96</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Rechargeable-Tactical-Flashlight-XHP70B/dp/B078JLG5DB?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC20</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 180 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. 3800 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://acebeam.com/x45-xhp702-version">Acebeam X45</a> - 4x18650, not pretty even in neutral white, but it makes 18,000 lumens. <strong>$180</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Excluded/dp/B07KFF5BGZ/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. This replaces the BLF Q8 in the list due to the LEDs offered and USB-C charging, though the Q8 is easier to disassemble for those interested in modifications. <strong>$71</strong> with batteries</li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMQMLLG?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A4v2</a> - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging, 1982 lumens and 564m throw according to zeroair. The A4v2 isn't quite a pure thrower; it's more versatile than that. Boost driver for near-full output even when the battery is low and better performance in the cold - that's rare to see in the A4's price/performance category. <strong>$50</strong>, but check for coupons</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Catapult-V6-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B07C7SRDFZ?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult V6</a> - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging. This is the Wowtac A4, but with a more expensive shell and a bigger reflector for more throw. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t27?_pos=1&_sid=c3b421293&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam T27</a> - 1x21700/18650. This is like a thrower version of the L30 duty light above, though its charging is USB-C, and oddly, it can act as a USB powerbank. Boost driver for full output on a low battery. 5000K recommended. 1180m FL1 throw. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$140</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t28?_pos=1&_sid=ea61d6e8b&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam T28</a> - it's a T27 with a bigger head and even more throw. There's not much more to say about it than that. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Lumen-Flashlight-Powered-Batteries/dp/B01L75AINK?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TN42</a> - 4x18650, 1550m FL1 throw advertised, 1700m observed by reviewers. <strong>$160</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-k30-gt?_pos=1&_sid=ec48ee7b4&_ss=r&variant=31817677504611&ref=9">Acebeam K30GT</a> - a hybrid, but leaning toward the throw side of things with 1km. 5500 lumens, but not for long due to heat. 3x18650. <strong>$160</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.acebeam.com/k65">Acebeam K65</a> - probably the original dedomed XHP70.2 version. 1km and 6200lm, but much bigger than the K30GT with 4x18650 batteries, giving it the ability to say bright longer without overheating. <strong>$195</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentlight.com/imalent-ms18-led-flashlight-cree-xhp70-2-led-max100000-lumens-intelligent-charging-for-outdoor-search-light.html">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. <strong>$500</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe or explosion proof light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-Dimmable-Bi-Color-3300K-5600K/dp/B01KZLM3QC?tag=zakwilson01-20">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$38</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-Wireless-Bi-color-Dimmable-3300K-5600K/dp/B07BBQXP19?tag=zakwilson01-20">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. Radio-based remote control. <strong>$79</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/LituFoto-Recording-Professional-Commercial-Photography/dp/B07PVN9SN8?tag=zakwilson01-20">Litufoto F12</a> (AKA Viltrox FA-D10) - A smartphone-sized LED panel with 96+ CRI, adjustable color temperature, USB-C power (note: noncompliant, A-to-C only), and sealed Li-ion battery. 800 lumens on high with 80 minute runtime, 70 lumens lowest, adjusts in 5% increments. 65% output available continuously without draining the battery while plugged in. This would even be viable as floody EDC flashlight if it wasn't for the obnoxiously long press for on/off. <strong>$48</strong> on US Amazon</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<p>Enthusiast lights can be subject to a bit of a flavor of the month phenomenon, and this section isn't necessarily going to try to include them all. What you'll find here are enthusiast lights with some staying power. There will probably be an Emisar D4 of some description this time next year, but not necessarily the latest new FW variant or whatever's currently trendy from Nightwatch.</p>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/fw3a.html">Lumintop FW3A</a> - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently <strong>five</strong> LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C <em>may</em> have more pleasant tint. <strong>Caution</strong>: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. Build quality and reliability may be a bit questionable, but these pack in a lot of features for the money. Several larger versions with higher output exist, but the original still makes the most sense to this list's maintainer. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/fw1a.html">Lumintop FW1A</a> - an FW3A with fewer emitters (one) and more reflector (again, one, in place of the FW3A's TIR optic). Less output, more throw, less demanding on the battery. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2019 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong> or a bit more from the <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/us-warehouse-product.html">US warehouse</a> for those wanting faster shipping.</li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr4-quad-tail-e-switch-edc-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon KR4</a> - This is almost a tail-e-switch D4, but it uses a variable linear driver that provides a bit better efficiency and more stable output as the battery drains as well as allowing brightness adjustment without PWM and enabling the use of ultra-low-voltage LEDs like the Nichia E21A. If you were thinking about the Lumintop FW4A, this is likely a better option. SST-20 4000K would probably still be my pick here because the E21A doesn't seem to play all that well with the Carclo quad optics. <strong>$55</strong>, and often stocked in the US warehouse.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962537117.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2c0f6d6c8d3Uey&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=8bd5503a-49ff-4e28-9f7b-19fe3dd3bfb5">Convoy S2+/219C</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. S2+ linked. S3 is similar, but with a removable steel bezel. S6 has a deeper reflector for a narrower spill and longer throw. Recently updated with the high-CRI Nichia 219C and Luminus SST-20 LEDs, which are strongly recommended over the prior options. 219C 4000K will probably make the largest number of people happy. "Body color" is actually drive current. More 7135 chips means more power, which means more output, shorter battery life, and more heat. x6 is a reasonable choice that should never get too hot to hold. x3 or x4 for giving to people who will waste the battery. x8 for max output. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$15</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-kr1-tail-e-switch-pocket-thrower.html">Noctigon KR1</a> - Do you miss the Emisar D1? This is a jacket pocket light can reach nearly 700m FL1 throw with certain emitter options. It's the <em>only</em> light I've ever seen offer a high-CRI Cree XP-L HI, which in this case is an incandescent-like 2850K. <strong>$50</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965927443.html">Convoy C8 SST-20</a> - 1x18650. 4000K and 7135x8 will produce the best results for most users. Over 4000K is low-CRI for the SST-20, and yes, CRI still matters in a semi-thrower like the C8. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $20. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fasttech.com/product/9684301-authentic-haikelite-sc04-led-flashlight">Haikelite SC04</a> - 1x26650/2x26650, 4xSST-20. The neutral white option is 95+ CRI and about 3000 lumens with 500+ meters FL1 throw. Side e-switch with a ramping UI and shortcuts. 2x26650 configuration is probably suitable for thumping someone on the head for those who miss that aspect of the classic Maglite. Boost driver for stable output when the batteries are low. This replaces the Convoy L6 on the list due to its LED choice and switch position. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4sv2.html">Emisar D4Sv2</a> - 1x26650, four emitters, lots of options. This is very similar to the D4v2 from the EDC section, but with a bigger battery, more thermal mass, and more throw. 3000-5000 lumens, 280-480m FL1 throw. SST-20 4000K recommended for most users. <strong>$50</strong> US buyers should check the <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/us-warehouse-product.html">US warehouse</a> for faster shipping</li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$100</strong> - again, check the <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/us-warehouse-product.html">US warehouse</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SST40-W-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Mini-Torch-p-1420116.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6137984&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux FT03 SST-40</a> FET driver, SST-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 955m throw and 2313 lumens according to zeroair. There's also an XHP50.2 version that trades some of the throw for output. 5000K suggested. <strong>$34</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging (including C-to-C!), and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, 4500 lumens and nearly as much throw (briefly) from the Luminus SBT-90.2. A balanced beam and stable output from the boost-driver equipped Cree XHP35 HI. Several other emitters are available, though some are not listed and can only be had by request - email and ask if there's a combination you want. <strong>$90</strong> and up depending on emitter.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01-Mini-7-SST20-5500LM-CRI95-Type-C-Rechargeable-Campact-EDC-Flashlight-26650-21700-18650-p-1560142.html?rmmds=buy&ID=5303946272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux MF01 Mini</a> - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port. <strong>$65</strong>, but check for active discounts</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/blfgt.html">BLF GT</a> - 8x18650, over 2000m FL1 throw. 4000K neutral white available and recommended. Do you want to win a display of <em>machismo</em> against a lighthouse? This is your flashlight. <strong>$180</strong> (on Banggood at the time of this writing)</li>
<li><a href="https://lumintoplighting.com/lumintop-blf-gt90-7000-lumens-high-intensity-flashlight-sbt90-p0061.html">BLF GT90</a> - the GT with a Luminus SBT-90.2 for over 7000 lumens and 2700m throw claimed, but that's going to be limited by heat and power. For sustainable performance, the original may have the advantage. For short bursts, this will be most impressive. <strong>360</strong>, but look for discounts</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p><strong>Edit 20200624</strong>: added Tool AA, NU25, KR4, KR1</p>Review: Wurkkos FC11 - an all-in-one 18650-powered everyday carry light with high CRI2020-02-26T00:00:00+00:002020-02-26T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-02-26:/wurkkos-fc11.html<p>The Wurkkos FC11 is a very compelling entry-level flashlight, with an 18650 battery included, USB-C charging, a strong tailcap magnet, and an LED with very good color rendering.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Rechargeable-Magnetic-Tailcap-Activities/dp/B07ZZ2YFKD/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> was provided by Wurkkos for review.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1394.JPG"></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Wurkkos FC11 is a budget everyday carry and general-purpose flashlight powered by an 18650 battery with USB-C charging, a side e-switch, a magnetic tailcap, and a high-CRI Samsung LH351D LED.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1408.JPG"></p>
<p>EDC lights in this size are very popular, and the choice of features is excellent, especially given the $30 price tag. Flashlight manufacturers have been slow to adopt the LH351D, despite its combination of high output and very good color rendering. USB-C, also has taken its time catching on.</p>
<p><strong>Update</strong> May 2020: Wurkkos quietly introduced a new UI for this model, which is shipping from US Amazon and possibly other locations. The changes fix all of my complaints.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The FC11's design choices are mostly higher-end than I'd expect to see at $30. The tube form-factor, trapezoidal threads, and spring clip are fairly conventional, but the textured reflector and slightly recessed, easily located button are not. There's a red/green battery status indicator light under that switch. There are springs at both ends of the battery tube. The magnet is among the strongest I've seen in a flashlight. USB-C is a very welcome decision in contrast to the more common micro-B. The FC11 uses a FET driver, which does not regulate power other than by blinking the LED thousands of times per second (PWM). This is appropriate for the combination of high max output and low price, and I find the costs to output regulation and efficiency reasonable at this price point. The high-CRI, 5000K LH351D is the emitter I'd put in a light like this if I was doing a swap for my own use, and what I think is best-suited for a mass-market EDC light.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1400.JPG"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1413.JPG"></p>
<p>The UI is a bit more of a mixed bag. I like that there's an option of ramping or fixed modes to provide a choice between predictable runtime and precise output control. I'm also happy to see that it's possible to ramp <em>down</em> as well as up, a UI feature rarely seen outside hobbyist firmwares. It's not all perfect though; there's no shortcut to low in either operating mode, and the two work <em>differently</em>. While ramping is a single click for on/off and hold-to-adjust, stepped is a single click for on, click to change modes, and long-press for off. To make that worse, double-click and triple-click are shortcuts to max and strobe respectively, so trying to change modes too fast results in triggering the shortcuts.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1412.JPG"></p>
<p>Aside from some UI details, the FC11 is an excellent design for its purpose and price point. I can think of competitors for twice the price or more that really ought to have springs on both ends of the battery tube, a better button design, or a better choice of LED like the FC11 does.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>Wurkkos is somehow affiliated with Sofirn, a company that has earned a reputation for very solid budget lights over the past few years, including some BLF community projects. It's no surprise that the FC11 gets most things in its execution right. The build quality is solid, and it does what it says it does.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1418.JPG"></p>
<p>The only thing coming to mind that's objectively wrong or poorly done is that the USB-C charging doesn't comply with the standard, and can only charge using an A-to-C cable or a series of adapters that add the correct resistance between a certain pair of pins. It's my understanding this should be easy to get right, not requiring any active electronics. More flashlights with USB-C get this wrong than right, but it's easy enough that there's not much excuse. The charging performance is fairly typical at about 1A, finishing in just under four hours.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>The Wurkkos FC11 is the entry-level flashlight to beat at the time of this review. The feature set and value for the money are fantastic. The UI could use some refinement, but that's not enough to offset the value proposition.</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Button is reasonably easy to find wearing gloves</li>
<li>Bidirectional ramping UI</li>
<li>Very strong magnet</li>
<li>Excellent value</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Noncompliant USB-C requires an A-to-C cable or series of adapters</li>
<li>No shortcut to low</li>
<li>Stepped and ramping UIs behave differently</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The FC11 only comes one way.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The FC11 comes with a 3000 mAh unprotected button-top 18650 battery, a USB A-to-C cable, and spare O-rings.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1395.JPG"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p><strong>Update</strong> May 2020: the UI has been updated with long-press from off to low, and both groups using single-click on-off and hold-to-adjust-brightness. This is a huge improvement.</p>
<h3>Smooth ramp</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Memorized mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Increase brightness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold, release, hold</td>
<td>Decrease brightness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max/strobe</td>
<td>Single-click</td>
<td>Previous state (including off)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 3 seconds</td>
<td>Switch to stepped</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Stepped</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Memorized mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Change mode (L->H)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>on</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max/strobe</td>
<td>Single-click</td>
<td>Previous state (including off)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 3 seconds</td>
<td>Switch to smooth</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Single clicks to change mode are problematic in combination with multi-click shortcuts because changing modes too quickly is treated as the shortcut.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is presumably with the included Wurkkos unprotected 3000 mAh 18650 battery. All testing was performed with an Acebeam protected 3100 mAh 18650 battery, which is believed to use a Sony VTC6 cell.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Eco</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>5.8</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>59</td>
<td>118</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>113</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>355</td>
<td>118</td>
<td>67</td>
<td>78</td>
<td>116</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>700</td>
<td>770</td>
<td>110</td>
<td>104</td>
<td>115</td>
<td>110</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1300</td>
<td>1311</td>
<td>101</td>
<td>144</td>
<td>150</td>
<td>104</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Where a graph is present, runtimes and efficiency are based on data logged during a runtime test. Otherwise, runtime is predicted from power consumption with a full battery, and is likely pessimistic since current will decrease as the battery drains in a direct-drive light. Battery capacity used to compute efficiency is taken from <a href="https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Sony%20US18650VTC6%203000mAh%20(Green)%20UK.html">this test</a>, using the closest match for current.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 years</td>
<td>42.7 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Eco</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>275 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>529 hours</td>
<td>5.67</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>59</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>45 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>22 hours</td>
<td>134</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>355</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/fc11/FC11 med VTC6-620687002513528.png">graph</a></td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>99 minutes</td>
<td>192 minutes</td>
<td>4.8 hours</td>
<td>856</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>770</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/fc11/FC11 High VTC6-1606329580685.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2.75 hours</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>5 minutes</td>
<td>4 hours</td>
<td>2000</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1311</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/fc11/FC11 max fan VTC6-69795470376646.png">graph</a></td>
<td>1.2 hours</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>3.5 hours</td>
<td>~3600</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The only LED available in the FC11 is a 5000K, 90 CRI Samsung LH351D. Colors are far more vivid and accurate with this LED than most, and the tint is close to midday sunlight. It's a little greener than some options on a white wall, but it's only noticeable when compared directly to more rosy light sources. The spill is a little cooler than the hotspot, but otherwise the tint is fairly even across the beam.</p>
<p>There's PWM on all levels aside from maximum, but it's very fast and only detectable with instruments.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/IMG_20200226_074622_882.jpg"></p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/IMG_20200226_074318_342.jpg"></p>
<p>vs BLF 348 219B (right)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/IMG_20200226_074404_500.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Armytek Wizard Pro 144A (right)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/IMG_20200226_074511_666.jpg"></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/IMG_20200119_041137_414.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/IMG_20200119_041425_221.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The FC11 is put together like a more expensive light, with thick anodizing, trapezoidal threads, and a well-sealed USB port. It handles a brief immersion with no sign of water ingress.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1423.JPG"></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The FC11 is slim for an 18650 light and comfortable to carry in a pocket. The clip is secure, and neither especially shallow nor especially deep. The button is easy to find by feel even with gloves on, and hard to press by accident while carrying in a pocket. The grooves on the body provide a reasonable amount of grip in most situations, though grip might be a bit low wearing some kinds of gloves, or with wet hands.</p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The FC11 comes with a Wurkkos branded 3000 mAh unprotected button-top 18650. All 18650 batteries I have available work in the FC11 and can be charged internally. As a direct-drive light, voltage sag affects output, and tested output was higher with a VTC6 than the included battery. There's low-voltage protection with a hard cutoff.</p>
<p>Charging takes just under 4 hours with a 3000 mAh cell and a USB power supply capable of over 1A.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1405.JPG"></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Access to the emitter, MCPCB, and refelctor is trivial by unscrewing the bezel. Most 3 volt, 3535 emitters are reasonable swaps should a user desire more throw or a different tint. Removing the charging board and driver also appears to be <a href="https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/f3xxt6/got_pd_ctoc_charging_wurkking_on_my_wurkkos_fc11/">fairly easy</a>, and the addition of a pair of resistors makes charging with a C-to-C cable possible. Unfortunately, I don't think there's a reasonable firmware upgrade option for the driver.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1425.JPG"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fc11/DSC_1429.JPG"></p>Review: Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144A2020-01-31T00:00:00+00:002020-01-31T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-01-31:/wizard-nichia-144a.html<p>Some time ago, I suggested an upgrade to Armytek's premium right-angle light. They finally did it, and I was very excited. Right-angle lights are generally the most versatile style of portable light, working as handhelds, headlamps, clipped to clothing or gear, and when equipped with a magnet as this one is, attached magnetically to surfaces. I had hoped this would be a light I could recommend to everyone, but Armytek introduced some firmware bugs, which give me pause.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.armytek.com/flashlights/models/wizard/armytek-wizard-pro-magnet-usb-nichia-led-warm/">Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144A</a> was provided by Armytek for review. Try coupon codes "BLF35", "RED", "reddit", or "review", for a discount. Only one can be used per order, and I believe they're in order of best to worst at the time of this post.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1262.JPG"></p>
<p>I believe I was the first person to put a Nichia 144A in an Armytek Wizard Pro. I suggested the idea to Armytek, and promoted the idea on forums. After a couple years of occasional teasing from them with no visible steps toward making it a reality, I assumed it would never happen. I was thrilled when they shared professionally-produced marketing material for it, suggesting an actual release was imminent, and even more thrilled to receive a pre-production sample. It's fair to say that I'm biased in favor of this light.</p>
<p><strong>Update</strong> May 2020: the reliability concerns I express in this review don't appear to have resulted in a high failure rate so far. I am rescinding my warning to not buy this as one's only flashlight/headlamp. I've seen two reports of failures, one of which was effectively DOA, and that's relatively normal for a light that's as popular as this one has been in the enthusiast community. </p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Armytek Wizard Pro is a "multi-flashlight" in Armytek's terminology, powered by an 18650 battery. Everyone else calls that a right-angle flashlight or headlamp. This form factor works equally well as a handheld flashlight or a headlamp, and many of them, the Wizard Pro included have a pocket clip and a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to be used clipped to clothing or magneted to surfaces. Armytek also includes a wristband.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1135.JPG"></p>
<p>The Wizard Pro has long been Armytek's top model of right-angle light, and the most recent previous version used a Cree XHP50 LED, included a battery, and had USB/magnetic charging. This version replaces the XHP50 with a Nichia 144A with a neutral 4500K color temperature and a color rendering index of 90+ for vivid, accurate, sunlight-like color.</p>
<p>If I could only have one flashlight, it would be a right-angle design powered by an 18650 battery, with a clip and a magnet. It would have a boost driver for stable output, and a high-CRI LED with neutral tint. If that's sounding a lot like the Wizard Pro 144A, you're not mistaken. I'd probably want more throw if it was my <em>only</em> light, but a more diffuse beam pattern is preferable for a lot of use cases.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The Wizard Pro design has evolved over a 7 year period from its 2013 introduction. Over time, its exterior has gained cooling fins, a magnetic tailcap, and charging contacts. Inside, the emitter has gone from Cree XM-L2 to Cree XHP50 to Nichia 144A, and the driver has been updated to handle a larger amount of power.</p>
<p>In its current form, the Wizard Pro is a medium-size 1x18650 right-angle light. It uses thicker material around critical components than many of its competitors. All of the electronics are potted in what I suspect of being a silicone-based rubber. The tailcap has two O-rings protecting the battery tube from water ingress, and requires a large number of turns to remove. The plastic TIR optic is covered by a glass lens to prevent scratches. The physical design seems centered around resisting mechanical abuse, and judging from my two older samples, which have not led easy lives, Armytek has accomplished that goal.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1292.JPG"></p>
<p>The pocket clip is a loopover design with a very tight friction fit on the battery tube. It's more likely to bend or break than get pulled off the body by accident. It provides a relatively deep carry in either head-up or head-down configurations. The switch is on the side of the head, which is perhaps easier to press in a headlamp configuration than many competitors which place it on top of the head, but harder to find in handheld use. Carried head-up in a right-side front pants pocket, I've had accidental activations with older Wizards pressing into the seam of the pocket, but the switch on this one is a little less proud and I have not seen that issue with this one. Armytek's headband mount has long been my favorite. It's a simple plastic holder, but I find it more comfortable than every alternative I've tried, including the fancy-looking padded one from Olight. It's possible, though not exactly what I think Armytek intended to install the Wizard in the holder with the pocket clip attached, which adds to the convenience. Using the recently-added rubber security loop with the clip installed is a little awkward.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1270.JPG"></p>
<p>The mode selection ranges from an advertised 0.1 lumens to 1400, with well-chosen spacing. The moonlight mode is noticeably dimmer than any other light I own, and perfect for performing basic tasks in the dark without disturbing others or losing dark adaptation. The user interface consists of three steady groups and one blinking group with shortcuts from off to each of them, and single-click on/off to the last-used mode. There's memory within the mode groups, except that the shortcut from off to low always starts with the lowest. That shortcut has another trick: keep the button held down and it keeps increasing the brightness until released regardless of the groups. In this way, it is always possible to reach any mode without passing a brighter mode, which is useful for comfort and preserving dark adaptation. One feature previous versions had is missing: the ability to set the light to momentary operation, where the button's only function is to activate the light in the last-used mode. It's not included in the manual, so I believe the removal was intentional. I've never read complaints about its presence, so I'm not sure why Armytek removed it. On the other hand, I never used it and don't miss it. While there are more sophisticated UIs available in 2020, I find this UI has aged well and doesn't lack any important functionality.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>The build quality of the exterior of the Wizard Pro 144A is similar to previous Armytek products I've encountered, which is to say solid and industrial feeling. It looks and feels like a professional tool designed purely for function, with little attention given to aesthetics or consumer appeal, except for silver writing on the body. That's slightly reduced from previous versions. No tool marks can be seen through the thick, chalky anodizing.</p>
<p>The optic and emitter work well together, producing an floody beam without a distinct hotspot, but a gradient that's more intense toward the center. The light itself looks like early-afternoon sunlight and makes colors look vivid and natural. The Wizard is quite efficient in medium and medium-high modes. The highest mode comes with a cost, as they usually do, but so do the lowest modes. It's hard for manufacturers to get low modes right; at least there's a proper sub-lumen moonlight with no flicker.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1265.JPG"></p>
<p>The magnetic charging feature is potentially useful, but it's very slow. It took 10 hours to fully charge a 3100 mAh Acebeam protected cell from empty. The onboard charging does reset tripped protection, but will also charge a cell from under the safe minimum of 2.5V. It's safest to use the onboard charging with cells in a known state of charge.</p>
<p>Along with the removal of momentary mentioned above, which appears to be intentional, there are other firmware differences from previous models which are contrary to the documentation and must be considered bugs:</p>
<ul>
<li>The low-voltage protection doesn't work correctly and can drain a battery to 0.6 volts. In combination with the included battery and the boost driver's effectiveness at maintaining output, this presents a significant risk of a battery fire or explosion when the battery is recharged and used again. This bug has been confirmed fixed by several customers who ordered from Armytek directly, but at least one dealer has delivered buggy units to customers.</li>
<li>The thermal regulation steps down to the main3 level and stays there upon hitting a temperature threshold. Output does not increase when the light cools like the manual says it will, and like previous versions did.</li>
<li>Tightening or loosening the tailcap with the button held down as if to toggle the indicator light or the momentary mode from older models can put the Wizard into an undocumented state in which the light toggles on/off with multi-click shortcuts without changing modes. There's <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/eteirr/nld_shortlived_nichia_wizard_pro/">one report</a> of an apparent hardware malfunction that permanently disables the light after entering this state. A similar sequence will exit the undocumented state, but I haven't been able to find a repeatable set of steps yet. I did try using strobe afterward as in the linked report, and there were no unusual effects.</li>
</ul>
<p>If the Wizard needed changes to its firmware, removing the momentary mode was not one many users were requesting. That such a change introduced bugs like these, which <em>made it to production</em> suggests a shocking level of incompetence or negligence in Armytek's firmware development department. The LVP bug in particular was dangerous given how quickly the boost driver can over-discharge a battery, the manual claiming the Wizard has LVP, the included battery being unprotected, and the fact that the Wizard is <em>worn on the user's head</em>.</p>
<p>I will, however assume for the moment that the one incident of hardware failure isn't related to the firmware bugs. With the LVP bug fixed, the other two are a feature downgrade, and a minor inconvenience. They don't ruin the Wizard Pro 144A for me, and probably won't ruin it for you either.</p>
<p>Finally, I have to bring up the company's customer service track record. Execution doesn't end with the product itself when the product costs $90 and advertises a 10 year warranty. There have been numerous reports of customers having difficulty getting a response from customer service, and long delays in getting warranty service.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>If Armytek had simply put the 144A in the Wizard Pro with no other changes, I'd be recommending it to everyone who could afford it, and suggesting that the rest increase their budgets. The right-angle form factor with a magnet is incredibly versatile; the boost driver does a great job producing full output on a low or cold battery; the light produced by the 144A looks like sunlight and renders colors nearly as well. My home-built Wizard Pro 144A has been my most-used light since I built it, and now everyone can simply <strong>buy</strong> one.</p>
<p>~~Unfortunately, it's not so simple. The firmware bugs introduced with this model are a significant concern even though the LVP is fixed. It's not clear if the undocumented UI state can lead to hardware damage or a "soft-brick" condition where the UI cannot be restored to its normal state. I'd bring my old Wizards into a situation where light is safety-critical, but for the next year, this one is on probation. Armytek's sometimes-difficult warranty process is also a concern in combination with the potentially-unreliable firmware.~~</p>
<p><strong>Update</strong> May 2020: While I'm not thrilled they made the thermal regulation less sophisticated and that the UI has a wierd undocumented state, community experience with this light has been showing average to good reliability.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1294.JPG"></p>
<p>So, should you get one? ~~If you're very risk-averse, if you can barely justify the cost, or if it will be your only light, no you shouldn't.~~ Yes. This is perhaps the most useful all-around flashlight on the market. If you're risk-averse, buy it from a trustworthy local dealer who can handle any warranty issues for you.</p>
<p>For everyone else, probably yes. It's <strong>that</strong> useful, and this LED is beautiful.</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Very nice tint</li>
<li>Versatile form factor</li>
<li>Boost driver provides excellent output stability</li>
<li>Good efficiency on medium and high modes (other than max)</li>
<li>Extremely low moonlight - the lowest I can recall seeing</li>
<li>Versatile user interface, with useful shortcuts</li>
<li>Tailcap magnet - stronger than most competitors</li>
<li>Headband is usable with pocket clip installed</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Some samples have been delivered to customers without low-voltage protection, which is dangerous</li>
<li>Thermal regulation is less sophisticated than documented, or than older Wizards</li>
<li>The UI has an undocumented state, suggesting a problem in Armytek's firmware development process and the possibility of additional bugs. This has been confirmed in production units with fixed LVP.</li>
<li>Slow charging</li>
<li>The company has a poor track record for customer service</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The Wizard Pro 144A only comes one way, but there are other variations of the Wizard Pro using the Cree XHP50. More variations are rumored to be in the works.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The Wizard Pro 144A comes with a plastic holder, headband, armband, 3200 mAh battery, USB/magnetic charger, spare O-rings, and manual.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1276.JPG"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Memorized mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off/turbo/blinky</td>
<td>Double click</td>
<td>Last-used main mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main (medium) modes</td>
<td>Double click</td>
<td>Last-used firefly mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple click</td>
<td>Last-used turbo mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Quad click</td>
<td>Last-used blinky mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through modes starting with firefly1 (turbo2 excluded); loops around</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through modes in current group</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Blinky modes include fast strobe, slow blink at high output, and slow blink at medium output.</p>
<p>The user interface does not have the "tactical" momentary state Wizards used to. Attempting to activate it by holding the button down and manipulating the tailcap enters an undocumented state where every click toggles on/off and the shortcuts do not work. Repeating that action exits this state, though sometimes it has required more than one attempt.</p>
<p>The switch indicator light can be set to blink even with the light off by loosening the tailcap, holding the switch, and tightening the tailcap. The inverse of that sequences disables it. Attempting this may enter the undocumented UI state.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is presumably with the included Armytek unprotected 3200 mAh 18650 battery, which is known to be an LG MH1 cell. All testing was performed with an Acebeam protected 3100 mAh 18650 battery, which is believed to use a Sony VTC6 cell.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly1</td>
<td>0.1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly2</td>
<td>1.2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly3</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>80</td>
<td>6</td>
<td>6</td>
<td>100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main1</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>38</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>131</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main2</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>168</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>31</td>
<td>37</td>
<td>121</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main3</td>
<td>335</td>
<td>390</td>
<td>116</td>
<td>47</td>
<td>57</td>
<td>120</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>770</td>
<td>872</td>
<td>113</td>
<td>72</td>
<td>85</td>
<td>118</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>1400</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td>114</td>
<td>97</td>
<td>115</td>
<td>119</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Where a graph is present, runtimes and efficiency are based on data logged during a runtime test. Otherwise, runtime is predicted from power consumption with a full battery, and is likely optimistic since current will increase as the battery drains in a boost driver light. Battery capacity used to compute efficiency is taken from <a href="https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Sony%20US18650VTC6%203000mAh%20(Green)%20UK.html">this test</a>, using the closest match for current.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~52 years</td>
<td>6.6 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>200 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~169 days</td>
<td>0.74</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~36 days</td>
<td>3.49</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly3</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~11 days</td>
<td>11.5</td>
<td>~83</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main1</td>
<td>38</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>50 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~38 hours</td>
<td>78</td>
<td>~116</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main2</td>
<td>168</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/wizard-144a/Wizard 144A Main2 Acebeam 3100-226321956842.png">graph</a></td>
<td>10 hours</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>319</td>
<td>125</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main3</td>
<td>390</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/wizard-144a/Wizard 144A Main3 Acebeam 3100-26214050260259.png">graph</a></td>
<td>250 minutes</td>
<td>197 minutes</td>
<td>197 minutes</td>
<td>197 minutes</td>
<td>785</td>
<td>116</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>872</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/wizard-144a/Wizard 144A Turbo1 fan-313088806319.png">graph</a></td>
<td>110 minutes</td>
<td>73 minutes</td>
<td>74 minutes</td>
<td>77 minutes</td>
<td>2100</td>
<td>100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/wizard-144a/Wizard 144A Turbo2 fan-435254330710459.png">graph</a></td>
<td>170 minutes</td>
<td>90 seconds</td>
<td>90 seconds</td>
<td>136 minutes</td>
<td>6500</td>
<td>119</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2 (water cooled)</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/wizard-144a/Wizard 144A Turbo2 Acebeam 3100 water-11704907584599.png">graph</a></td>
<td>170 minutes</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>26 minutes</td>
<td>26 minutes</td>
<td>6500</td>
<td>63</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The advertised runtime, and measured runtime with fan cooling are longer for Turbo2 than Turbo1. That's not a mistake, but a result of the new, less sophisticated thermal behavior. It spends most of its time at approximately 530 lumens. The advertised runtime suggests Armytek expects a stepdown at some point in Turbo1 as well, but fan cooling prevents it, as would using the light in cold, wet, or moderately windy conditions.</p>
<p>The efficiency drop on Turbo2 is considerable and suggests that a driver component is being pushed beyond its design limits. This mode generates heat quickly and is not usable for an extended period of time under realistic conditions. It should be seen as a burst mode to increase throw briefly.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The light produced by the 144A is beautiful when focused by Armytek's honeycomb TIR. There's no hotspot, but the beam is brighter in the middle and dimmer toward the edges. The tint is 4500K and neutral to slightly rosy with vivid color rendering. While I've read it doesn't play well with some reflectors, in this optic, the 144A is easily the equal of the 219B for light quality, with significantly more quantity than a single 219B can produce. This is my favorite emitter I've seen on a factory light since the BLF 348.</p>
<p>There is no PWM or flicker on any mode.</p>
<p>The beam measured 2.08 cd/lm, which is very floody, similar to frosted triples.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/IMG_20200131_201114_215.jpg"></p>
<p>vs BLF 348 219B (right)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/IMG_20200131_201157_935.jpg"></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/IMG_20200119_041013_571.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/IMG_20200119_041319_860.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The Wizard body is heavily built. There are lots of threads on the tailcap, and two O-rings. All the aluminum is a bit thicker than it needs to be. The electronics are known to be potted. Runtime tests conducted under water were no problem. My two older Wizards have survived numerous hard knocks. Put simply, mechanical durability is not a weakness here.</p>
<p>Electronic component assembly on the other hand might be. There have been a few reports of Wizards dying spontaneously, including a recent one involving the 144A model.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>As a handheld, the Wizard Pro works reasonably well. The size allows a person with average hands a four-finger grip without obstructing the light output, and it's easy enough to press the button with either hand: just squeeze the entire head between a thumb and forefinger. There's no texturing explicitly for grip purposes, but the rough anodizing used on all Armytek lights provides a fair amount of grip. Some people dislike the feel, which resembles that of a chalkboard, but I like it.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1281.JPG"></p>
<p>The headband and holder are also not universally loved. I've tried a number of right-angle headlamps, and I find the Wizard headband to be the most comfortable - better even than the padded Olight headband, which <em>looks</em> more comfortable. Others have found the plastic holder to create hotspots. More objective is the fact that the plastic holder allows much faster installation and removal than the rubber designs used by most manufacturers. It's even possible to install with the pocket clip in place, a convenience all manufacturers should be designing for explicitly.</p>
<p>I have yet to find a good use for the included armband. The Wizard is too large and heavy for me to use comfortably as a wristlight, as the armband isn't very secure and it does not stay in place.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1287.JPG"></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The Wizard Pro can use and charge any standard 18650 battery. If protected cells are used, the max mode will require a minimum rating of 8A. A long spring in the tailcap provides reliable contact for anything from the shortest bare flat-top to the longest protected button-top.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/wizard-144a/DSC_1273.JPG"></p>
<p>Examples with broken LVP firmware should be used with protected cells for safety reasons.</p>
<p>Onboard charging is slow, taking roughly 10 hours to charge a protected Acebeam 3100mAh 18650 from protection-trip. The onboard charging will reset tripped protection. It will also attempt to charge an over-discharged unprotected cell, which is a little risky to do under the best of conditions, and quite inadvisable inside a pressure vessel like the Wizard.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I discussed modifications in my review of the XHP50 model. I put 144As in both samples. The press-fit bezel is the most significant obstacle.</p>
<p>The only modification I'd like to perform on this one is a different firmware. Unfortunately, I don't have one, and attempting to develop one without help from the manufacturer would be a significant undertaking.</p>Review: Acebeam UC152020-01-24T00:00:00+00:002020-01-24T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2020-01-24:/acebeam-uc15.html<p>The UC15 is an unusual 2xAAA or 2x10440 light from Acebeam. It has a high-CRI (optionally) main emitter with red and UV secondaries and makes for an interesting lightweight carry option that's not yet another tube light.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/collections/flashlights/products/acebeam-uc15-nichia?ref=9">Acebeam UC15</a> (affiliate link) was providen by Killzone Flashlights for review. Use coupon code "zakreviews" for a 10% discount on most products (not the UC15), and to give me a kickback.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1245.JPG"></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Acebeam UC15 is a 2xAAA/10440 light in a rare side-by-side form factor, with white (high-CRI optional), red, and ultraviolet LEDs. Its form factor resembles sealed-battery onboard-charging lights like the Nitecore TIP and Astrolux K1, but it lacks onboard charging, favoring standard-size removable cells. All functions are controlled from one button, which places some limitations on the user interface - more on that later.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1220.JPG"></p>
<p>It's refreshing to see a little-used form factor from a major brand like Acebeam. The appeal of the form-factor and feature-set is perhaps a bit niche, but it's perfectly usable as a white-only light. Two AAA or 10440 batteries fall a bit short of the capacity possible with AA or 14500, but compare well with 16340, which may come as a surprise to some. The UC15 is a fundamentally good concept, but not one with universal appeal.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The UC15 uses a rectangular form factor with a battery compartment plate held in place by a central screw, which also serves as a keyring or lanyard attachment point. A removable pocket clip is included, which supports a bezel-up orientation only. The side switch is slightly raised, easy to find by feel, and requires some force to press, making accidental activation improbable. A red/green LED is located under the switch, acting as a battery status idicator. It's larger than some of its competitors, but its battery capacity exceeds the sealed pouch cells used in most other compact rectangular lights. The light claims to be dust and splash resistant, but not submersible. That's normal for the category, but a bit disappointing. A selection of body colors is a nice touch, with black, silver, blue, and magenta offered.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1227.JPG"></p>
<p>A potential design weakness is that the shelf to which the MCPCB is attached is hollow under the white emitter. In theory, this could contribute to output sag on higher modes and hurt the lifespan of the LED, but it doesn't appear to be a major problem in practice, as the highest modes with Li-ion batteries are time-limited, and there doesn't seem to be significant thermal sag at lower levels.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1232.JPG"></p>
<p>The main white emitter is either a Cree XP-L (cool white, low-CRI), or a Nichia 219C (neutral white, high-CRI) in a smooth reflector. I generally prefer a bit of texture on the reflector, and it would have been welcome here for a smoother beam pattern. The secondary emitters area red Cree XP-E2 and a 365nm ultraviolet Nichia 276A. They are unfocused, which I think is adequate for their use cases, though I'm not entirely sure what the use case for high-output red in a compact everyday carry light would be. The UV emitter also has fairly high output, and is suitable for checking security features on documents and use with UV leak detection dyes.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1237.JPG"></p>
<p>The user interface it Acebeam's usual e-switch UI for the white emitter, which is significantly similar to those used by Thrunite and Olight, with shortcuts from off to the lowest, highest, and last-used modes and single-click on/off. Access to the secondaries, however requires holding for 2 seconds from off, and UV requires releasing the button followed by a second long-press. I think they've put a bit too much on one button, and second button would improve things here.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>Acebeam's build quality has been solid every time I've encountered it, and the UC15 is no exception. Everything fits. Everything works every time. Nothing lookss unfinished. Driver efficiency is quite good, and it's close enough to its output targets. There's no PWM. The smooth reflector doesn't result in the smoothest beam, but it's hard to spot any artifacts outside of a white wall. There's low-voltage protection for both NiMH and Li-ion, which is rare, and something I'm very happy to see here.</p>
<p>The UC15 is well-done. Anyone who likes the concept and design should be satisfied with how the UC15 is executed.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>I think the UC15 deserves more attention. With 10440 batteries, it compares well to 16340-powered lights, but in a thinner, flatter form factor. With rechargeable AAAs, it maintains respectable performance. Its cost is comparable to some of the more popular examples of that category as well, though perhaps Acebeam could offer a white-only version at a lower price point; UV emitters in particular are quite expensive.</p>
<p>The option of a high-CRI emitter combined with Acebeam's e-switch UI and enough battery for light-duty use makes the UC15 a good choice for lighter everyday carry, however the lack of a proper moonlight mode and time-consuming access to secondary emitters may dissuade some buyers.</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI (optional)</li>
<li>Flat/thin form factor</li>
<li>Nice e-switch UI for the white emitter</li>
<li>Low-voltage protection for both NiMH and Li-ion</li>
<li>Works with all appropriately-sized batteries</li>
<li>Can run on one battery</li>
<li>Powerful UV with little visible light</li>
<li>Low standby drain</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Lowest mode is too high for preserving dark adaptation</li>
<li>Red mode is also too high for preserving dark adaptation</li>
<li>Secondary emitters are slow and inconvenient to access</li>
<li>Not waterproof</li>
<li>Questionable thermal design</li>
<li>10440 mode spacing is lacking at the low end</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The UC15 has a choice of ~6500K, low-CRI Cree XP-L, or high-CRI Nichia 219C. In either case, it can be had in black, silver, blue, or magenta, though not all dealers will have all combinations..</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The UC15 includes a pocket clip, hex wrench, user manual, and warranty card.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1226.JPG"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Lowest</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle 3 middle modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off, or any white</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Highest</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Highest</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Last-used white</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 2s</td>
<td>Red</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red/UV</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle red/UV</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red/UV</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Last-used white</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 5s</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 5s</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>This is both easy for anyone to use with no instruction, and versatile for those who know the shortcuts as long as it's in a white mode. The secondaries, which are stored in mode memory could be a point of confusion for someone who has not read the manual.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Testing was performed using Panasonic Eneloop 750 mAh NiMH AAA batteries, or a pair of fairly worn Efest 350 mAh 10440 Li-ion batteries, as noted.</p>
<p>Runtimes without graphs are estimated from power consumption and do not account for possible reductions in output over time.</p>
<h3>Eneloop AAA batteries</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>"Moon"</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>233</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>150</td>
<td>18</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>57</td>
<td>114</td>
<td>29</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>101</td>
<td>101</td>
<td>41</td>
<td>36</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>190</td>
<td>95</td>
<td>57</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>UV</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>68 years</td>
<td>1.3 uA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>"Moon"</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>33 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>18 hours</td>
<td>43</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4.8 hours</td>
<td>161</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>57</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3.7 hours</td>
<td>5.2 hours</td>
<td>5.2 hours</td>
<td>5.2 hours</td>
<td>309</td>
<td>147</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>101</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>128 minutes</td>
<td>155 minutes</td>
<td>157 minutes</td>
<td>157 minutes</td>
<td>583</td>
<td>136</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>190</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>41 minutes</td>
<td>48 minutes</td>
<td>68 minutes</td>
<td>72 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>108</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red</td>
<td>190</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.6 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.1 hours</td>
<td>682</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>UV</td>
<td>190</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.3 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>0.9 hours</td>
<td>785</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Efest 10440 batteries</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>"Moon"</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>9</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>132</td>
<td>132</td>
<td>41</td>
<td>41</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>250</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>120</td>
<td>64</td>
<td>63</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>450</td>
<td>530</td>
<td>118</td>
<td>86</td>
<td>84</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>750</td>
<td>700*</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>111</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>103**</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>UV</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6.5 years</td>
<td>3.5 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>"Moon"</td>
<td>9</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17 hours</td>
<td>23.7</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>132</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.5 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>80 minutes</td>
<td>299</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1 hour</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>33 minutes</td>
<td>726</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>530*</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/uc15/UC15 10440 high fan-369963033315935.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2+47 minutes</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>50 minutes</td>
<td>50 minutes</td>
<td>1400</td>
<td>107</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>700*</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/uc15/UC15 10440 max fan-143490140144.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2+36 minutes</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>3 minutes</td>
<td>39 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>101</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Red</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.5 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>45 minutes</td>
<td>536</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>UV</td>
<td>300</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.2 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>43 minutes</td>
<td>557</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>* Li-ion turbo measurement was taken before 30 seconds due to throttling related to voltage sag on the weak test batteries. It should be treated with more skepticism than usual.</p>
<p>** I have no calibration for red output, so this estimate should also be treated with extra skepticism.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>This UC15 uses a ~5000K, 90 CRI Nichia 219C. Its light quality is typical for the emitter: the color temperature is similar to midday sunlight; it's visually slightly green on a white wall, which is not noticeable outdoors, and colors are rendered vividly and accurately. There's a slight ring in the beam where the corona meets the spill, which is not enough to be distracting outdoors.</p>
<p>There is no PWM or detectable ripple on any mode.</p>
<p>Lacking another place to put this in my current format, the UC15 produces FIXME cd/lm.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/IMG_20200110_060506_696.jpg"></p>
<p>vs BLF 348 219B (right)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/IMG_20200110_060607_380.jpg"></p>
<p>vs Armytek Wizard Pro 144A (right)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/IMG_20200110_060715_776.jpg"></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/IMG_20191019_024425_919.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/IMG_20191019_024507_354.jpg"></p>
<h3>UV</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1242.JPG"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The body of the UC15 is aluminum, with a removable battery cover in the back using a captive screw, and a frontal cover bolted to the shelf and acting as a pressure plate for the MCPCB. Most of the driver is in the central spine, allowing room for relatively large components, which probably explains some of the UC15's efficiency and stable performance.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1249.JPG"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1250.JPG"></p>
<p>All the pieces fit well, and there are no sharp edges or visible tool marks. There's also no attempt at waterproofing the battery cover. It seems to me that there could have been a rubber seal around its perimeter.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>Using the pocket clip, UC15 is very comfortable to carry. While the clip looks bulky, its location outside the pocket combined with the UC15's thin body makes its presence hard to notice. The bezel-up-only orientation doesn't match my preference, but doesn't create any objective problems. The switch is easy to find by feel, as it's slightly raised, but hard to press by accident on account of the firm pressure required. In the hand, the smooth body doesn't provide much grip, but it's easy to hold as long as the pocket clip is installed.</p>
<p>Carried on a keychain, the UC15 is quite large compared to most competitors, but no worse than a 1xAA or 1x16340 light.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>If it fits, it's probably supported. The UC15 supports NiMH, lithium disposable, and alkaline disposable AAA, as well as Li-ion 10440. The low-voltage protection might result in usability issues with LiFePO4 10440s, but they too would likely power it in a pinch. Button and flat top cells will both make contact.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/uc15/DSC_1247.JPG"></p>
<p>It is possible to run the UC15 on only one cell, but this will likely limit performance on higher modes. Alkaline batteries will also likely have poor performance outside of low modes.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Based on images I found online, the UC15's front piece is held on by four hex screws, removal of which gives access to the MCPCB, emitters, and reflector. Removing another screw on the body should allow the driver to slide out.</p>
<p>All three emitters are on a single MCPCB, and could be replaced as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>Red XP-E2, white 219C: any white or colored 3535 emitter with a thermal pad using between about 1.5 and 4 volts.</li>
<li>UV 276A: any of several 2-pad emitters that are roughly 3535 or smaller. Possible candidates include: Niciha 119 series, Nichia 309 series, Nichia E21 series, and Samsung LH231B.</li>
</ul>
<p>One source claims 15 lumens from an SST-20 in place of the red XP-E2. Assuming the regulation is based on output current, a white emitter replacing the UV should be higher.</p>Arbitrary List of Popular Lights, Winter Solstice 20192019-12-21T00:00:00+00:002019-12-21T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-12-21:/arbitrary-list-2019-2.html<p>Happy Winter Solstice! This is the perfect day to pick a new flashlight, and this list may include the best flashlight for you (there is no objective best).</p><p>Happy Solstice!</p>
<p>In honor of Winter Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight north of the equator[.](http://zakreviews.com/static/photos/fw3a/derivatives/article-image/DSC_0500(1).JPG)</p>
<p>Because a definitive buyer's guide is too hard, I've made an arbitrary list of popular lights you should consider if you're shopping for a light. There is no best flashlight, so this is not the last word in what's good, but a list of lights that are often bought or recommended here with a touch of my own opinion thrown in. Exclusion from this list doesn't mean a light isn't good. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html</p>
<p>Where possible, sites where I am compensated for certain purchases using affiliate codes are linked here. Sometimes the manufacturer offers good deals through direct orders, sometimes vendors have the best prices. There are <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/index#wiki_coupon_codes">coupon codes available</a> that apply to many of the lights listed. The canonical version is hosted <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/edz84r/arbitrary_list_of_popular_lights_winter_solstice/">on reddit</a> without affiliate links. You can use the affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" at <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com">Killzone Flashlights</a> for a discount on most lights.</p>
<p>Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:</p>
<ul>
<li>Neutral white tint - the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/5yjqcr/poll_preferred_color_temperature/">vast majority</a> of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"</li>
<li>A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges</li>
<li>A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off</li>
<li>A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes</li>
<li>An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer</li>
<li>A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway</li>
<li>Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60236">99</a>. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.</li>
<li>A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)</li>
<li>A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes</li>
<li>A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off.</li>
</ul>
<h1>About specs</h1>
<p>Lumens are total output. Don't worry about small differences in output. You probably can't detect a 10% difference in lumens with your eyes, and 20% is barely noticeable. It takes 4 times the lumens to look twice as bright. Candela is intensity, which translates to throw distance. FL1 throw numbers are about right for detecting large objects; cut them in half for seeing clearly. Extreme throw distances also run in to limits imposed by human vision and by backscatter in the atmosphere. Warmer tints have less backscatter.</p>
<p>FL1 runtime numbers are to 10% output and can be misleading. Look for a review with a runtime graph.</p>
<p>Performance specs for AA and AAA powered lights are usually given with NiMH rechargeable batteries. Alkalines don't perform as well, and may leak corrosive electrolyte.</p>
<p>If you want something particularly powerful or long-lasting, you should probably skip right to the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/wiki/18650">18650</a>-powered lights. This battery significantly outperforms other options, especially alkalines.</p>
<hr>
<p>For this release, I'm splitting the list into a mainstream section, and an enthusiast section. Lights in the mainstream section are generally stocked at dealers in the US and EU, probably have a warranty of some sort if they cost more than $50, often come with a battery and have onboard charging, and should have a low rate of defects or anything the user needs to tweak. Lights in the mainstream section are <em>usually</em> fairly simple to operate without much configurability, but there are a couple exceptions.</p>
<p>Lights in the enthusiast section often ship from China, may have safety concerns, might need calibration or adjustment to work correctly, etc.... Enthusiast lights often offer exceptional performance under certain circumstances, and opportunities for customization. These often have open source firmwares with a lot of opportunity for customization, but may be easy to configure right into an unusable state.</p>
<h1>Mainstream lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday Carry Lights</h2>
<p>These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.</p>
<h3>Keychain</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Keychain-Light-Pocket-Flashlight/dp/B06Y67CRXF/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Nitecore Tube</a> - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. <strong>$10</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-TIP-2017-CRI-Rechargeable/dp/B06XYT78B8/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Nitecore TIP CRI</a> - a bigger Tube with more output, neutral white tint, 90+ CRI and a dual-switch user interface that has shortcuts to low, high and last-used modes. Due to the user interface and color rendering, this is still probably a better option for most people than the new TIP 2 <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li>The Cooyoo Quantum, and rebranded versions by several manufacturers such as the <a href="http://www.fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=2221&tid=12&cid=1">Fenix UC02</a>. There are versions in more exotic metals including stainless steel, copper and titanium. This uses a removable 10180 size Li-ion battery and has USB charging. <strong>$25</strong> (for the Fenix in aluminum)</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Keychain-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Charging/dp/B082XQD5PQ/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Rovyvon Aurora A3x</a> (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 20g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. <strong>$33</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AAA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Sofirn-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized-Luminus-Water-resistance/dp/B07PM3Z33T/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn C01s</a> - 1xAAA, neutral tint, 95+ CRI, twisty switch with two modes (100lm and 3lm). Pocket clip or keychain carry. <strong>$10</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Lumintop IYP07</a> - a 1xAAA tailswitch option with three modes (5, 40, 130 lumens), three colors (black, silver, pink), and two LED options, of which only the neutral white, high-CRI Nichia 219C is worth considering. <strong>$22</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Fenix LD02 2.0</a> - 1xAAA, tailswitch, warm white, high-CRI, and a UV secondary. 1 lumen low, 70 lumens high. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Fenix LD05 2.0</a> - 2xAAA, 100lm max, and the same features as the above. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Thrunite Ti4</a> - 2xAAA - Neutral white available. Titanium sometimes available. High output for this form factor. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Lumintop IYP365 Nichia 219C</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI (Nichia version only) and neutral white. Not as bright as a Ti4, but light quality is often more important for being able to see clearly. <strong>$24</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Nitecore MT06MD</a> - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219<strong>B</strong> as far as I know. Similar to the IYP365 on paper, but many people prefer the tint of the 219B over the 219C. <strong>$32</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>AA battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-T10-II-Flashlight-NW/dp/B07GST3GMT/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite T10 II</a> - a side-switch light supporting both AA and 14500 Li-ion batteries with shortcuts from off to high and low and a magnetic tailcap. Neutral white available and recommended. <strong>$20</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC53c-AA-Neutral-White-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_201.html">Zebralight SC53c</a> - 90+ CRI, warm-neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. <strong>$57</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB8P4N4/ref=twister_B07BL49SX1?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Archer 1A</a> - a dual-switch 1xAA light that can also use 14500. 200 lumens with AA, about 450 with 14500. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Keychain-Powered-Emergency-Excluded/dp/B07WSW8V4N?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP10S</a> - 1xAA/1x14500, 90+ CRI with a Samsung LH351D LED and black, blue, or red body color. Slightly awkward UI with a long-press to turn off, but it may be worth it for the low price and high color quality. <strong>$16</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>CR123A/16340 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-tk16-aluminum?_pos=1&_sid=ebd28db1b&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam TK16</a> (SST-20 version only) - 95+ CRI, neutral white, <strong>tail</strong> e-switch with shortcuts to lowest, highest, and last-used, plus two mode groups so you can choose between sensible runtimes and impressing your friends with the 1250 lumen peak output. 0.5 lumen moonlight. Battery included, but you'll need a separate charger. If you were considering the Olight S1 line, get this instead. Also available in copper. <strong>$55</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R66R5FS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite T1</a> (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. <strong>$40</strong>, usually</li>
</ul>
<h3>#18650 battery</h3>
<p>This category is so popular it gets subcategories. If you're looking for a lot of power and runtime that's still possible to carry in most pants pockets, this is your battery.</p>
<h4>Dual-switch lights</h4>
<p>A tailswitch controls power, a sideswitch changes brightness. The ease of explaning the UI makes these perfect to hand out to others.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4N2YCF/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TN12</a> - comes in neutral white, has a separate mode switch, can tailstand, has a moonlight mode, modes appear evenly-spaced. This may well be the most frequently recommended light on /r/flashlight. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/eagletac-dx30lc2?_pos=1&_sid=02ee0804f&_ss=r&ref=9">Eagletac DX30LC2</a> - slimmer than most 18650 lights, with a unique take on the dual-switch interface: it always starts on high, unless the mode switch is held, in which case it starts on low. Longer throw than most, neutral white available from some dealers. <strong>$75</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Micro-USB-Interface-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B01M3TSBB6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC12</a> - essentially a TN12 with USB charging, a thermal sensor to limit temperature, low-voltage protection and a battery included. <strong>$70</strong></li>
<li>[Sofirn SP31 v2.0] - efficient driver and XP-L HI emitter for more throw than most lights in this class. Cool white only, unfortunately, but a good value with the features of the Fenix PD32 at half the price. <strong>$29</strong> alone, or <strong>$36</strong> with battery and charger.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-ec35-gen-ii?_pos=1&_sid=c3293d9c2&_ss=r&variant=31834384367715&ref=9">Acebeam EC35 II</a> (Killzone Nichia 219C version) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side siwtch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, <em>and</em> it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). <strong>$58</strong> by itself, or <strong>$68</strong> with a battery.</li>
</ul>
<h4>E-switch lights</h4>
<p>Electronic switches enable shortcuts from off to useful modes - usually lowest, highest, and last-used.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html">Zebralight SC64c LE</a> - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/SC64w-HI-18650-XHP35-Neutral-White-High-Intensity-Flashlight_p_232.html">Zebraligh SC64w HI</a> - the above, trading some color quality for more output and throw. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Micro-USB-Chargeable-Flashlight-Self-Define/dp/B06XXFC1VN/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Neutron 2C</a> - like an e-switch TC12 with continuous ramping between 12 and 650 lumens and additional 0.5 and 1100 lumen modes. Available neutral white. Shortcuts from off to low, high and last-used. USB charging. It's possible to take out half the battery tube and use a shorter 18350 battery. An 18650 battery is included. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Ultra-Bright-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Emergency/dp/B07JLKWQBR/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC15</a> - like the Neutron in form, but trades battery flexibility for 2300 lumens turn-on output and replaces the ramping UI with fixed modes. <strong>$50</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/WOWTAC-Handheld-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof/dp/B07Z8283VN/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A6</a> - a budget option under 100mm long. MicroUSB, battery included, optional neutral white, 1460 lumen burst mode. The FC11 is probably a better buy for most people now that its UI is improved, unless you can't find it where you live or magnets are a problem. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZZ2YFKD?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wurkkos FC11</a> - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. Early versions had some UI wierdness, but the UI has been revised and is now very good. The tint could stand to be better, but the color rendering is very good, and it's <strong>$30</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>Other</h3>
<h1>Right-angle lights and headlamps</h1>
<p>If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.</p>
<h2>Small</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H53c-AA-Headlamp-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_194.html">Zebralight H53c</a> - All the Zebralight goodness described above for the SC64c LE, but in a right-angle, 1xAA form factor. The Cree XP-L2 may make a less attractive beam than the Samsung LH351D, but most people report Zebralight's optics smooth it out well. H53Fc for a frosted lens for a very even beam. This one even comes with a pocket clip, and the headband does not have the top strap the 18650 versions do. <strong>$59</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCV32SI/ref=twister_B01FCY03J6?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TH20</a> - 1xAA headlamp available in neutral white with infinite ramping and shortcuts from off to low/high. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h40?ref=9">Acebeam H40</a> with 95 CRI Luminus SST-20. This is very similar to the TH20, but trades having a good sub-lumen low for high CRI. It would be nice to have both in the same light, but for that, you'll need a soldering iron. <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=2209">Fenix HL10</a> - a 1xAAA headlamp that weighs 40 grams with a lithium battery. It's here so /r/ultralight doesn't feel left out, as I would recommend something with a larger battery for a primary headlamp. This would make a good backup. Two is one. <strong>$30</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZV4ML52/ref=twister_B0814CZKM7?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TH01</a> - 1x18350 battery dedicated headlamp, 1500 lumens burst (450 stable). This is a USB-charged option without going to the larger 18650 battery. <strong>$40</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Medium</h2>
<p>All of these use one 18650 battery.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Hands-Free-Highway-Shoulder-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B07FSH2G9Z/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Skilhunt H04</a> - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are sometimes available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. Optional magnetic charging. <strong>$41</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/WOWTAC-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Lightweight-Flashlight/dp/B07YJLQ5T9/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A2/A2S</a> - another budget option, this time with a reflector. Both come with an 18650 that has a USB charge port right on the battery, but can be used with any 18650. The A2S also offers neutral white, which I recommend. <strong>$16/25</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600w-Mk-IV-18650-XHP35-Neutral-White-Headlamp_p_215.html">Zebralight H600w IV</a> - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fd-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_219.html">Zebralight H600Fd IV</a> - the above with 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H600Fc-Mk-IV-18650-XHP502-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_218.html">Zebralight H600Fc IV</a> - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H604d-18650-XHP502-Flood-5000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_224.html">Zebralight H604d</a> - the H600Fd with no reflector and a clear lens for a very floody, perfectly even beam. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zebralight.com/H604c-18650-XHP502-Flood-4000K-High-CRI-Headlamp_p_223.html">Zebralight H604c</a> - if you've read the above, this needs no explanation. <strong>$89</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/panda-2m-cri/">YLP Panda 2M CRI</a> - 1x18650 dedicated headlamp, with high-CRI neutral white LH351Ds. Not the most efficient, but the light quality is great and with an 18650 battery, most people won't mind. <strong>$35</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7JWFMZ/ref=twister_B07K8LTBQC?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TH10 V2</a> - over 300m throw in a right-angle light for those who need it. USB charging, and battery included. A bit more bulky than most. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-elf-c2-xp-l-micro-usb-w-included-18650?_pos=1&_sid=5bc4bf541&_ss=r&ref=9">Armytek Elf C2</a> - USB charging, floody, and a removable magnet in the tailcap, with a headband mount that allows quick installation and removal, even with the pocket clip in place. <strong>$65</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/armytek-wizard-pro-nichia-magnet-usb?ref=9">Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144A</a> (also a headlamp and a magnetic work light) - this light was my idea. After reviewing the Wizard Pro XHP50, I convinced them to put a 90 CRI, 4500K Nichia 144A in it. It took a couple years, but they did, and it is glorious. One of these is in my pocket as I write this. It has all the goodness of the original, with a battery included, magnetic charging, right-angle form factor that can be used as a handheld, a headlamp, or a magnetically attached area light, boost driver for stable output and good performance in the cold, excellent waterproofing, a great low mode, and shortcuts from off to low, medium, and high. I had some reliability concerns due to firmware bugs in the prototypes and undocumented changes, but several months on reliability within the community seems to be average to good. <strong>$90</strong>, but try my affiliate coupon code "zakreviews"</li>
</ul>
<h2>Large</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-h30?_pos=1&_sid=ec7ca305d&_ss=r&variant=12751391096931&ref=9">Acebeam H30</a> - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=2247&tid=13&cid=2">Fenix HP30R</a> - 2x18650 batteries in a remote holder that can be worn under a jacket. This is probably the most reliable battery option for extreme cold environments as the batteries can be kept warm. The battery case features USB charging and can be used as a USB powerbank. There are flood and spot emitters, which make 750 and 1000 lumens respectively, and can be used together for 1750 lumens. This is the heaviest headlamp on the list by far, but much of the weight is in the battery pack. <strong>$130</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Duty lights</h1>
<p>These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l30-ii?_pos=1&_sid=014d544ce&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam L30</a> - 4000 lumens from a single 18650 or 21700 (included). Neutral white available and recommended. Not the prettiest light, but there's <em>a lot</em> of it, and enough thermal mass to sustain it for a few minutes. Stable output without overheating is 2000 lumens. Forward-clicky tailswith is always max output, but the side switch has shortcuts to low and last-used. USB charging. <strong>$110</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-l16?variant=8791483121763&ref=9">Acebeam L16 5000K</a> - the L16 is like the L30, but a little smaller, considerably more throwy (603m claimed, but usually tests a bit lower) and 18650/CR123A-only. I hated the harshness and backscatter of the original cool white emitter, but Killzone Flashlights has commissioned a run in 5000K (neutral white). As of this writing, they're the only place to get one in the US. Nkon has them in Europe. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/eagletac-gx30l2-pro?_pos=1&_sid=f7aa9b03a&_ss=r&ref=9">Eagletac GX30L2 Pro</a> - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Neutral white with XHP35 HI recommended for more natural color and throw distance. Onboard charging. Neutral white optional. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected cells recommended. <strong>$155</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://olightworld.com/olight-m2r-warrior">Olight M2R</a> Compact, magnetic charging, uses a standard 18650 unlike most of Olight's range. This would be easier to recommend if it still offered neutral white, but some may find the magnetic charger compelling. Avoid the Pro version, as it uses a proprietary battery and does not function at all with a standard one. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/olight-m2rvn-olights-excellence-r">Skylumen M2Rvn</a> - about that neutral white... and it gains over 100m of throw in the process by switching to the XHP35 HI. This is a modified Olight M2R with different warranty terms from the original, so read those carefully. <strong>$120</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t36?_pos=1&_sid=123eff764&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam T36</a> Another compact option, which <strong>does</strong> offer neutral white (5000K). Like the L30, it uses a 21700 (included) or 18650 battery, and the same user interface. USB-C charging. <strong>$110</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>High-performance lights</h1>
<p>Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you <strong>know</strong> you'll be using them.</p>
<h2>Flooders</h2>
<p>Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Rechargeable-Tactical-Flashlight-Neutral/dp/B078JYVJCS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TC20</a> - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 180 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. 3800 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. <strong>$72</strong> with standing "20%" coupon code</li>
<li><a href="http://acebeam.com/x45-xhp702-version">Acebeam X45</a> - 4x18650, not pretty even in neutral white, but it makes 18,000 lumens. <strong>$180</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Excluded/dp/B07KFF5BGZ/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Sofirn SP36 BLF edition</a> - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. There's currently a bundle with Sofirn batteries on US Amazon for a very small additional cost, but these usually don't come with batteries. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. This replaces the BLF Q8 in the list due to the LEDs offered and USB-C charging, though the Q8 is easier to disassemble for those interested in modifications. <strong>$50</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Throwers</h2>
<p>What's that over there? <strong>WAY</strong> over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.</p>
<p>FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMQMLLG?tag=zakwilson01-20">Wowtac A4v2</a> - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging, 1982 lumens and 564m throw according to zeroair. The A4v2 isn't quite a pure thrower; it's more versatile than that. Boost driver for near-full output even when the battery is low and better performance in the cold - that's rare to see in the A4's price/performance category. <strong>$50</strong>, but check for coupons</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Catapult-V6-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B07C7PVXTS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite Catapult V6</a> - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging. This is the Wowtac A4, but with a more expensive shell and a bigger reflector for more throw. <strong>$70</strong> with a coupon code</li>
<li><a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-t27?_pos=1&_sid=ad635ddc9&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam T27</a> - 1x21700/18650. This is like a thrower version of the L30 duty light above, though its charging is USB-C, and oddly, it can act as a USB powerbank. Boost driver for full output on a low battery. 5000K recommended. 1180m FL1 throw. <strong>Noncompliant USB-C behavior</strong> requires charging with an A-to-C cable. <strong>$140</strong></li>
<li><a href="">Haikelite MT07S HI</a> - 4x18650, 1200m FL1 throw, neutral white offered and recommended. Lots of thermal mass and battery capacity for extended use. <strong>$90</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L752HOS/ref=twister_B082WRYR2Y?tag=zakwilson01-20">Thrunite TN42</a> - 4x18650, 1550m FL1 throw advertised, 1700m observed by reviewers. <strong>$160</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Hybrids</h2>
<p>Some throw, some flood... probably a lot</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.imalentlight.com/imalent-ms18-led-flashlight-cree-xhp70-2-led-max100000-lumens-intelligent-charging-for-outdoor-search-light.html">Imalent MS18</a> - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. <strong>$500</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Other lights</h1>
<h2>Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/flashlights/3315cc">Pelican 3315 CC</a> - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. <strong>$55</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-Dimmable-Bi-Color-3300K-5600K/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Viltrox L116T</a> - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. <strong>$32</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-Portable-Camcorder-Brightness-3300K-5600K/dp/B07C9ZNY17?tag=zakwilson01-20">Viltrox VL162T</a> - similar to the above, but more focused, and with a small amount of visible tint shift at the edges of the beam. <strong>$37</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-Interview-Photography-3300K-5600K-Controller/dp/B07DR6BF87/?tag=zakwilson01-20">Viltrox VL200T</a> - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. <strong>$68</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/CameraPlus-LituFoto-Beatiful-Portable-Smartphone/dp/B07L34FF2Y?tag=zakwilson01-20">Litufoto F12</a> (AKA Viltrox FA-D10) - A smartphone-sized LED panel with 96+ CRI, adjustable color temperature, USB-C power (note: noncompliant, A-to-C only), and sealed Li-ion battery. 800 lumens on high with 80 minute runtime, 70 lumens lowest, adjusts in 5% increments. This would even be viable as floody EDC flashlight if it wasn't for the obnoxiously long press for on/off. <strong>$46</strong> on US Amazon</li>
</ul>
<h1>Enthusiast lights</h1>
<h2>Everyday carry</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/fw3a.html">Lumintop FW3A</a> - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently <strong>five</strong> LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C <em>may</em> have more pleasant tint. <strong>Caution</strong>: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/fw1a.html">Lumintop FW1A</a> - an FW3A with fewer emitters (one) and more reflector (again, one, in place of the FW3A's TIR optic). Less output, more throw, less demanding on the battery. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html">Emisar D4v2</a> - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are <strong>eight</strong> LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2019 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. <strong>$45</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Gray-Convoy-S2-with-luminus-SST20-Ra-95-4000K-DTP-copper-plate-ar-coated-glass-lens/330416_32969287656.html">Convoy S2+/SST-20</a> - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and <a href="http://mtnelectronics.com">Mountain Electronics</a>. S2+ linked. S3 is similar, but with a removable steel bezel. S6 has a deeper reflector for a narrower spill and longer throw. Recently updated with the high-CRI Luminus SST-20 LED, which is strongly recommended over the prior options. The high-CRI Nichia 219C is also available, for those who want a bigger hotspot or different color temperature options. "Body color" is actually drive current. Mor 7135 chips means more power, which means more output, shorter battery life, and more heat. x6 is a reasonable choice that should never get too hot to hold. x3 or x4 for giving to people who will waste the battery. x8 for max output. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. <strong>$15</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Jacket pocket, maybe</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Clear-Convoy-C8-with-XPL-HI-LED-copper-DTP-board-and-ar-coated-inside-new-firmware/330416_32732511943.html">Convoy C8 XP-L HI</a> (new firmware version) - 1x18650. Most people prefer the neutral white 3A tint. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $25 or less. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but <em>this</em> C8 is the one most people should get. High-CRI Luminus SST-20 available by request. <strong>$25</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.fasttech.com/product/9684301-authentic-haikelite-sc04-led-flashlight">Haikelite SC04</a> - 1x26650/2x26650, 4xSST-20. The neutral white option is 95+ CRI and about 3000 lumens with 500+ meters FL1 throw. Side e-switch with a ramping UI and shortcuts. 2x26650 configuration is probably suitable for thumping someone on the head for those who miss that aspect of the classic Maglite. Boost driver for stable output when the batteries are low. This replaces the Convoy L6 on the list due to its LED choice and switch position. <strong>$60</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4sv2.html">Emisar D4Sv2</a> - 1x26650, four emitters, lots of options. This is very similar to the D4v2 from the EDC section, but with a bigger battery, more thermal mass, and more throw. 3000-5000 lumens, 280-480m FL1 throw. SST-20 4000K recommended for most users. <strong>$50</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d18.html">Emisar D18</a> - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. <strong>$100</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-FT03-SST40-W-2400lm-875m-NarsilM-v1_3-USB-C-Rechargeable-2A-26650-21700-18650-LED-Flashlight-Mini-Torch-p-1420116.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&ID=6137984&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux FT03 SST-40</a> FET driver, SST-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 955m throw and 2313 lumens according to zeroair. There's also an XHP50.2 version that trades some of the throw for output. <strong>$32</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight.html">Noctigon K1</a> - 1x21700, USB-C charging, and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, but there's a case to be made for each of the other options, including a 95 CRI SST-20. There's an XHP35 HI option with a boost driver in the works, and possibly a Luminus SBT-90. <strong>$80</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01-Mini-7-SST20-5500LM-CRI95-Type-C-Rechargeable-Campact-EDC-Flashlight-26650-21700-18650-p-1560142.html?rmmds=buy&ID=5303946272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux MF01 Mini</a> - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Big</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.lumintop.com/blfgt.html">BLF GT</a> - 8x18650, over 2000m FL1 throw. 4000K neutral white available and recommended. Do you want to win a display of <em>machismo</em> against a lighthouse? This is your flashlight. <strong>$180</strong> (on Banggood at the time of this writing)</li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF01S-18x-SST20-15000LM-616M-Anduril-UI-18650-Flashlight-High-CRI-Super-Bright-Searching-Flashlight-p-1526856.html?ID=224556977&cur_warehouse=USA">Astrolux MF01S</a> - 4x18650, 18 Luminus SST-20s, comes in colors. 4000K is high CRI and recommended. Anduril firmware. <strong>$100</strong></li>
</ul>
<h1>Pending</h1>
<p>These lights look good, but are too untested to include, or have unresolved issues. They'll get moved to the main list after sufficient positive reviews, user reports, or confirmation that problematic issues have been resolved. They'll get removed if serious problems show up.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m200-new-edition-led-flashlight/">Skilhunt M200 (LH351D)</a> - Were you considering the Olight S2R? Consider this instead. Magnetic charging, but with a standard 18650. Optional high-CRI neutral white LH351D. Magnetic tailcap. Magnetic charging. The linked version even has configurable mode groups, and you can decide whether to pay extra to get it with a battery. Pending due to lack of reviews, but Skilhunt stuff is usually solid. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flashlight/">Skilhunt M150</a> with high-CRI LH351D - this is the AA/14500 version of the M200, without the mode customization feature. It's only offered bundled with a 14500, and I believe onboard charging is only for 14500, not NiMH AA. <strong>$40</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-HL01-XPLSST20-1200lm-4000K5000K6500K-Anduril-UI-Type-C-Rechargeable-2in1-Magnetic-LED-Headlamp-L-shape-1835018650-Flashlight-Headlight-p-1602591.html?p=IO0117468906201403!A&custlinkid=701491&ID=62757976272662&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux HL01</a> - a 1x18650/18350 right-angle light with a choice of XP-L or high-CRI SST-20, USB-C, magnetic tailcap, Anduril firmware. Has not shipped yet and potential issues are not known. <strong>$25</strong> with a coupon code. It's not necessarily a good value at a significantly higher price.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Batteries/chargers</h1>
<p>Battery and charger advice is getting relocated to the /r/flashlight wiki. Please stand by.</p>
<h1>Changes - February 1</h1>
<ul>
<li>Wizard Pro 144A: Pending -> Enthusiast</li>
<li>Wurkkos FC11: Pending -> Mainstream</li>
<li>Skillhunt M200: Pending</li>
<li>Thrunite TN40S: removed (discontinued)</li>
</ul>
<h1>Changes - May 9</h1>
<ul>
<li>Wizard Pro 144A: Enthusiast -> Mainstream</li>
<li>Notes about Wurkkos FC11 and Wowtac A6 following UI improvements to the FC11</li>
<li>Removed Thrunite TT10 (discontinued? mostly unavailable, anyway)</li>
</ul>Review: Acebeam TK16 - a small EDC triple with a tail e-switch and high CRI2019-12-13T00:00:00+00:002019-12-13T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-12-13:/acebeam-tk16.html<p>The Acebeam TK16 is a 1x16340/CR123A everyday carry light with three emitters and a tail e-switch. It resembles a cross between a Lumintop FW3A and an Olight S1. It combines excellent power efficiency, class-leading max output, and very good color rendering.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.killzoneflashlights.com/products/acebeam-tk16-aluminum?_pos=1&_sid=ebd28db1b&_ss=r&ref=9">Acebeam TK16</a> (affiliate link) was providen by Killzone Flashlights for review. Use coupon code "zakreviews" for a 10% discount on most products (not the TK16), and to give me a kickback.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1111.JPG"></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The TK16 is a compact everyday carry flashlight running on a 16340 battery. Since about one in three EDC pocket dump photos on the internet contain an Olight S1 variant, it's hard to argue with the concept from a business perspective. What some potential buyers may find missing is that while the TK16 includes a battery, it does not have a charger built in, which many buyers in this segment seem to prefer.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1112.JPG"></p>
<p>The tail e-switch is new for this form factor; Acebeam has offered several lights that technically use a tail e-switch, meaning that a switch on the tailcap sends a signal to the driver's microcontroller, which is powered even when the light is off. Prior to the TK16, these either emulated the behavior of a mechanical switch that disconnects power from the light completely, or sent a signal that simply requsts max output. The TK16 uses the tail e-switch for a multi-mode UI with shortcuts from off to low, high, and last-used much like the Lumintop FW series.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1114.JPG"></p>
<p>The triple emitter design has been popular in larger lights, and it's nice to see it come to this form factor. Finally, offering a choice of three emitter types with different characteristics strikes me as a smart decision, allowing Acebeam to meet the needs of a wide range of users.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The TK16 is as small as it can be and still do what it needs to do, but not smaller. It's slightly larger than the smallest lights using the same battery, but it has a tailswitch, dual-wall body tube, springs on both ends of the battery, and needs to handle more energy than most.</p>
<p>Three emitter options are offered: Luminus SST-20, for color quality, Osram White Flat for throw, and Cree XP-G3 for output. As different users weight each of those attributes differently, I'm glad to see the options. Of course, I think it's an easy choice: color vividness and accuracy are important for seeing clearly in most situations, and SST-20s with a color rendering index of over 95 deliver it while still exceeding the output and throw of any mainstream rivals.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1119.JPG"></p>
<p>The UI is Acebeam's usual e-switch UI with shortcuts to the lowest, highest, and last-used modes from off. It's similar to those used by Thrunite and Olight, which is good. The shortcuts are useful, and someone who hasn't read the manual will surely manage at least on/off in a useful mode. One oddity is that there's an option to set the maximum output to a claimed 1250 lumens in "power" mode and 750 in "eco" mode. I find this useful in that 750 lumens is a better heat-limited burst mode for most users for a light this size since it heats up much more slowly, but Acebeam can still use the big number to sell lights (and I can use it to show off). Eco mode may also be useful for compatibility with 16340 batteries that aren't rated for as much load as the included one.</p>
<p>I'm less enthused about the physical design of the TK16. The huge knobby texture on the body tube seems out of place in a small everyday carry flashlight. The pocket clip, I dislike significantly. Its upper pinch point is too tight for thick fabric. The ramp contacts the flare in the body near the tail in a way that makes it hard to insert into the pocket. It's reversible, but rubs when unscrewing the head if installed bezel-down. I'd enjoy this light much more with a different clip. On a positive note, the TK16 has a glass lens over its plastic TIR to prevent scratches, which sets it apart from some of its most popular competition.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1127.JPG"></p>
<p>Packing a triple with a 20mm optic into a 22mm diameter body is impressive, and I can confirm it's an unmodified Carclo 10507 optic, which is the same series as is used in many DIY and custom lights, the FW3A, and others. If anything, it's so compact that the tail e-switch doesn't offer the ergonomic advantages it does on a larger flashlight. The optic is relatively easy to swap, for those who prefer, for example the frosted 10511 or the eliptical 10510.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>There's not much to complain about with the TK16's execution. I'd say it does what it says on the tin, but that's not quite right. I tested more output than claimed in all modes, and <strong>much</strong> more throw. Runtimes are a bit shorter though, so it's possible changes were made to the optics and drive current after the documentation was written. Reviews by others confirm the difference in throw for the SST-20, though the Osram version appears to overstate its throw. Incorrect documentation is my only complaint about the TK16's implementation.</p>
<p>The physical build of the TK16 is flawless. There are no defects, blemishes, unfinished or imprecise pieces. It has none of the reliability issues with its signal tube that the FW3A does, most likely because it has a flat spring on the driver to ensure positive contact. Assembly is straightforward, with the bezel and tail plug both easily unscrewed, however the signal tube and switch PCB seem to be installed in a more permanent fashion.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_0978.JPG"></p>
<p>In the hobbyist flashlight world, we're used to seeing triple emitter lights using electronics designed for compactness and ability to delivery the most watts to the emitter per dollar of component cost. That's not the TK16. This flashlight makes as much as 140 lm/W while producing full-spectrum light makes colors look vivid and natural. This efficiency means the TK16 with a 16340 battery can match the runtimes at similar power levels of hobbyist lights using the larger 18350 battery.</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Tail e-switch is a rare configuration that deserves more options</li>
<li>This tail e-switch is implemented <em>reliably</em></li>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Excellent efficiency</li>
<li>Stable output as the battery drains</li>
<li>Impressively compact given the features</li>
<li>Widely-available swappable optics</li>
<li>Power/eco mode groups allow a choice between class-leading peak output and a longer-lasting, more usable max mode</li>
<li>That peak output. It's class-leading, even with the lowest output emitter option.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>I hate the pocket clip</li>
<li>I <strong>really</strong> hate the pocket clip</li>
<li>The advertised performance numbers have barely more to do with this light's actual performance than the output of random.org</li>
<li>High standby drain</li>
<li>Knobby texture doesn't seem quite right on a small EDC light</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The TK16 is offered in aluminum or copper body, with a choice of three emitters: Luminus SST-20 (4000K, 95 CRI), Cree XP-G3 (6500K, unspecified CRI), and Osram White Flat (6000-6500K, unspecified CRI). This is the aluminum, SST-20 version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TK16 comes with a 550 mAh high-drain unprotected 16340 battery, user manual, warranty card, spare o-rings, and a spare switch boot.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1118.JPG"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The TK16 uses an electronic tailswitch with a double-walled battery tube to carry the signal. Unlike other Acebeam models with the same physical construction, the tailswitch is the only switch, and it uses Acebeam's usual shortcut-based e-switch UI, which is similar to those used by Thrunite and Olight.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Lowest</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double click</td>
<td>Max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>Double click</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 4 seconds</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 4 seconds</td>
<td>Lowest</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Click 10 times</td>
<td>Toggle eco/power</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>This is both easy for anyone to use with no instruction (it will always turn on and off with a single press of the button, in a medium mode of some sort), and versatile for those who know the shortcuts.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>All testing was performed using the included Acebeam 550 mAh 16340 battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Min</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>200</td>
<td></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>22</td>
<td>169</td>
<td>12</td>
<td>22</td>
<td>183</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Med</td>
<td>80</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>125</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>46</td>
<td>153</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>450</td>
<td>536</td>
<td>119</td>
<td>71</td>
<td>107</td>
<td>151</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max Eco</td>
<td>750</td>
<td>857</td>
<td>114</td>
<td>89</td>
<td>137</td>
<td>154</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max Power</td>
<td>1250</td>
<td>1320</td>
<td>106</td>
<td>118</td>
<td>172</td>
<td>146</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Max mode graphs were made with a cooling fan, resulting in less thermal throttling than the manufacturer's test.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>238 days</td>
<td>96.1 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Moonlight</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6 days</td>
<td>4 days</td>
<td>4 days</td>
<td>4 days</td>
<td>5.26</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>22</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>11.6 hours</td>
<td>11.6 hours</td>
<td>11.6 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>125</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>100</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tk16/TK16 med-314771264008255.png">graph</a></td>
<td>3 hours</td>
<td>2.8 hours</td>
<td>2.8 hours</td>
<td>2.8 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>140</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High (uncooled)</td>
<td>536</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tk16/TK16 high-293795496428085.png">graph</a></td>
<td>1 hour</td>
<td>15 minutes</td>
<td>37 minutes</td>
<td>37 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>101</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High (fan-cooled)</td>
<td>536</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tk16/TK16 high fan-310290492570557.png">graph</a></td>
<td>1 hour</td>
<td>24 minutes</td>
<td>24 minutes</td>
<td>24 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>104</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max (eco)</td>
<td>857</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tk16/TK16 max eco fan-200110128249249.png">graph</a></td>
<td>45 minutes</td>
<td>14 minutes</td>
<td>14 minutes</td>
<td>14 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>91</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max (power)</td>
<td>1320</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tk16/TK16 max fan-108682832494296.png">graph</a></td>
<td>45 minutes</td>
<td>5.6 minutes</td>
<td>5.7 minutes</td>
<td>24 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>99</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The TK16's beam is typical for the Carclo 10507 optic: a large hotspot and dim spill, with some artifacts in the spill. The SST-20s have excellent color rendering, and a bit of noticeable green tint in lower modes when compared side by side with other light sources, but I don't really notice when using the TK16 by itself.</p>
<p>There is no PWM or detectable ripple on any mode.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/IMG_20191211_195706_398.jpg"></p>
<p>Vs BLF 348 219B (right)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/IMG_20191211_195802_111.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/IMG_20191019_024651_634.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/IMG_20191019_030323_994.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The TK16 is as compact as I think possible without compromising build quality. The bezel and tail plug screw in with no glue, fit well, and seal the body against water. Acebeam advertises 2 meters immersion. The anodizing looks and feels thick. The threads are fine, but square-cut. There's a glass lens over the plastic optic. The pocket clip has a tight friction fit and will never come off by accident. As usual, Acebeam makes a well-constructed light.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>I like tail e-switch lights, but the 1x16340 form factor is quite short for that to make ergonomic sense. It works, but an overhand grip will be awkward for users with larger hands. The knobby texture provides adequate grip, but catches coming in and out of a pocket.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1128.JPG"></p>
<p>My primary ergonomic complaint is the pocket clip. There's very little ramp, so precision or pulling the clip away from the body is necessary to get pocket material between the clip and the body. Near the top of the clip, there's a pinch point for additional grip on the pocket, but it's very tight and doesn't work well with thicker material. It seems to be intended for bezel-up carry, which doesn't make sense to me with the tail e-switch. Bezel-down works, but the clip rubs on the head when unscrewing it for battery removal, which is frequent given the small battery and lack of onboard charging. I hate this clip, and will probably eventually track down an alternative.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The TK16 uses a single 16340 battery. Full performance requires a battery capable of about 5A continuous output, which is high for the battery type, and can be difficult to source at times. One is included. Other 16340s will work, and springs on both ends of the battery tube mean that protected, unprotected, flat, and button top should all be fine. Some 16340s may require eco mode, or stayinng out of max.</p>
<p>There is low-voltage protection at 2.7V, with a series of warning blinks, followed by a stepdown, and finally a hard shutoff.</p>
<p>A single CR123A disposable lithium battery can be used as a backup power source; output is limited to 400 lumens.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The bezel of the TK16 unscrews fairly easily, though I did need snap ring pliers to loosen it. The lens is a bit of a tight fit, and requires tapping against a surface to get out. The second time I did this, I got the lens out and tapped once more by mistake, breaking it. A 20mm UCL works as a replacement, but it's slightly too thick, leaving a small gap between the bezel and body. Function and waterproofing are unaffected.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1123.JPG"></p>
<p>The optic is a Carclo 10507. I replaced it with a 10511 and saw 147m throw with a smoother beam. Emitter swaps should be easy, and while I have some slightly less green SST-20s, these emitters are fine, and a good choice for this light. I'm not eager to change them. Perhaps I'll try 219Bs some time in the future.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/DSC_1125.JPG"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tk16/IMG_20191211_201537_086.jpg"></p>
<p>MCPCBs aren't quite as compatible. The TK16 has the emitters in series, while most hobbyist triples are in parallel. There are series boards available, and some Noctigon boards are configurable with jumpers. Screw holes and thickness are additional compatibility concerns.</p>Review: Xtar ST22019-11-18T00:00:00+00:002019-11-18T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-11-18:/xtar-st2.html<p>The Xtar ST2 is a USB-C PD fast charger for larger cylindrical Li-ion cells. It can charge two cells at up to 4A and has indidivual temperature sensors to prevent overheating. Its performance is impressive, but mine proved unreliable.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.xtar.cc/product/XTAR-ST2-Charger-117.html">Xtar ST2</a> was provided by Xtar free of charge for review. This review is incomplete because my ST2 sample failed before I could do much testing. There are more complete reviews available from <a href="https://www.patreon.com/posts/29908275">mooch</a> and <a href="https://www.bmengineer.com/2019/08/xtar-st2.html">bmengineer</a>.</p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Xtar ST2 is a fast charger for large Li-ion cells with two slots and USB-C PD input. It's not a powerbank, a small-cell charger, an analyzer, a multi-chemistry charger, or anything else. It just charges big Li-ion cells to 4.2V quickly.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/st2/DSC_0775.JPG"></p>
<p>Advertised performance is 4.1A charge current per slot, which is one of the highest available for a Li-ion slot charger. Small cells are not supported, and the charging contacts in the slots will not make contact without the use of a third-party spacer. The ST2 can charge any 18650 and many 21700s to 80% in under an hour. While not an acute danger for most 65mm+ long cells, slower charging is better for service life. The user can select lower current manually, but the ST2 defaults to the fastest charge possible based on the USB power supply used and the internal resistance of the battery.</p>
<p>A fast charger using a standardized power supply is useful for a heavy user who doesn't want to bring a large stock of spares. The average user, on the other hand might be better served by a more versatile charger like the VC2S or VC4S. Such rapid charging is, perhaps a niche feature, at least in the flashlight world, but it's a reasonable enough niche to fill and therefore a solid concept.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The ST2 is large for a two-slot charger, with wide bays that comfortably hold two 26650s, and long sliders that support even the longest protected 21700s. There are temperature sensors in the bays to prevent cells from overheating, and buttons to adjust charging current. Nearly all USB charging standards are supported, with basic operation possible on plain 5 volt input and higher charging current available with QC 3.0 and PD 2.0. Maximum performance requires 15V, 3A PD. Two buttons are provided to adjust the current of each slot. The lowest current setting is 1A, which should be fine for almost all 65mm long Li-ion cells.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/st2/DSC_0679.JPG"></p>
<p>Charging current is selected automatically based on the internal resistance of the cell, which is measured and displayed upon insertion. The temperature of each cell is shown on the display, and current is reduced if the cell gets hot. The ST2 will shut off completely if a cell exceeds 60C. This is a good safety feature for a high-current charger, however the charger does not monitor the temperature of its internal components. More on that later.</p>
<p>The display is very informative, with internal resistance, voltage, charging current, estimated percent charge, and temperature shown for each cell at the same time. "Er" is displayed if a cell is inserted incorrectly, or the charger is unwilling to attempt charging for some other reason. For a quick status check from a distance, there's a red/green light indicating charging in progress, or complete respectively.</p>
<p>The ST2 is a reasonable design overall for the purpose of charging large Li-ion cells rapidly, but I do wish it monitored its own temperature.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>The ST2 seems to do what it says on the tin. I charged 18650s and 26650s with it several times using a 5V USB power supply, and charged single cells from a 110W LVSun PD power supply. When I tried charging two 26650s from 3.0V using the PD power supply at 4.1A, I left the room for a few minutes and returned to be greeted by the odor of the magic smoke that powers electronic devices. Of course, once the smoke has been released, they no longer function. My ST2 was completely dead, and the cells had been charged to about 3.5V.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/st2/DSC_0778.JPG"></p>
<p>This FET in a position marked Q5 on the board in other images self-destructed, likely due to a manufacturing defect. I informed Xtar, and they said they would pass along the details to their engineers. They did not inform me of the engineers' response.</p>
<p>Since the cause of this failure is not known, nor is the probability of other units failing similarly, I cannot recommend the ST2 at this time.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/st2/st2-fail.jpg"></p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>USB-C input</li>
<li>Charges <em>fast</em> at 4.1A</li>
<li>Temperature sensor for each cell</li>
<li>Informative display</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>The temperature of the charger's internal components is not monitored</li>
<li>My sample suffered a catastrophic failure. </li>
</ul>Review: Fenix LD02 v2.02019-09-23T00:00:00+00:002019-09-23T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-09-23:/fenix-ld02.html<p>The Fenix LD02 v2.0 is a 1xAAA light with a reverse-clicky tailswitch, high-CRI warm-white Cree XQ-E HI, and a 365nm UV secondary emitter. It has a useful selection of modes and reasonable output for its class, though the beam pattern isn't ideal. In a market short on 1xAAA tailswitch lights, this is my favorite.</p><p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0933.JPG"></p>
<p>This <a href="https://bestlight.io/products/fenix-ld02-v2?_pos=1&_sid=7d1592d2f">Fenix LD02 v2.0</a> was provided by <a href="https://bestlight.io">BestLight</a> for review. Use coupon code "reddit" for a 10% discount.</p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The Fenix LD02 v2.0 is one of a very small number of 1xAAA lights with a tailswitch. To that, it adds a high-CRI, warm-white emitter and UV secondary. I believe this feature set to be unique at the time of this writing.</p>
<p>I'm fond of 1xAAA lights with tailswitches. It's a convenient form factor for a lightweight everyday carry, and more convenient for one-handed operation than the twisty switches more common in this size. The warm-white, high-CRI emitter is suited to people who miss the look of incandescents but want modern LED performance. I'd like to see more lights like this on the market.</p>
<p>Including UV is a bit odd. Perhaps Fenix intends the light to be suited for inspecting currency and documents with security features, where the combination of high CRI and UV would be of use. For the average user, the inclusion of UV will probably just get in the way. That aside, a 1xAAA light with high CRI and a tailswitch is a very good EDC option for a lot of users.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0726.JPG"></p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The LD02 v2.0 uses a combination of stainless steel and aluminum with a milled stainless steel pocket clip to house its emitters and TIR optic. The emitter is one I've never seen in a flashlight before: the Cree XQ-E HI. It's similar in size, configuration, and performance to the Nichia E17A. An E17A might have been a better choice here, as the LD02 has some unevenness in color noticeable on a white wall, and the tint is a little green. It's not so noticeable outdoors, and the color rendering is quite good.</p>
<p>The plastic TIR optic is exposed, without a glass lens, increasing the risk of scratches. This particular TIR optic produces a very large hotspot, but not much spill, which is a bit surprising given the naturally throwy emitter. A reflector might have been a better fit here, though the cutout needed for the UV emitter would create issues of its own.</p>
<p>The body has a considerable amount of effort put into its design, with significant use of stainless steel. The milled pocket clip is a particularly unusual touch to see in a light under $50. It's fixed in position, not intended to be removable, and very secure. It isn't ideal with very thick clothing, but seems appropriate to the lighter-duty use likely with such a small light. The tailswitch is flat and allows tailstanding on a hard, flat surface.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0935.JPG"></p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>As with most Fenix products, the LD02 V2.0 does what it says on the tin. Fenix goes so far as to include runtime graphs and list the difference in runtimes with alkaline and NiMH batteries. There are no surprises here. The build quality feels particularly nice compared to what's usually seen in this market segment. Efficiency on high is the only notable weakness in the LD02's execution, but I'd be inclined to suggest that anyone for whom that's a problem use a larger light with a larger battery. Efficiency is quite good on medium.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0937.JPG"></p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>High CRI</li>
<li>Tailswitch in 1xAAA form factor</li>
<li>Premium build/materials</li>
<li>UV is 365nm for a strong reaction from UV-reactive materials</li>
<li>Warm color temperature serves an underrepresented segment of users</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>For those who don't use it, the UV mode may be in the way</li>
<li>The pocket clip has high tension and a small contact area, which may be hard on clothing</li>
<li>Tint is a little green</li>
<li>Low efficiency on high</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>There is only one version of the LD02 v2.0. (It's 2.0, obviously)</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The LD02 v2.0 includes spare O-rings, a user manual, and an alkaline battery.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0730.JPG"></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<p>The LD02 uses a reverse-clicky tailswitch and off-time memory with a mode order of UV -> L -> M -> H.</p>
<p>For those unfamiliar with the terms above, reverse-clicky means a mechanical switch that turns on when fully released after a press, as opposed to a forward-clicky that turns on when pressed and stays on when released (if fully-pressed before release). Off-time memory means that a quick on/off cycle or half-press of the switch will switch to the next mode if and only if the time the light is off is short enough.</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0937.JPG"></p>
<p>Advertised performance is with unspecified NiMH and alkaline batteries. Fenix advertises the same output for both battery types, but different runtimes. Test results are with a Panasonic Eneloop 750 mAh NiMH AAA battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>6</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>29</td>
<td>116</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>104</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>70</td>
<td>95</td>
<td>136</td>
<td>48</td>
<td>47</td>
<td>98</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High (alkaline)</td>
<td>70</td>
<td>78</td>
<td>111</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Runtimes without graphs are estimated from power consumption. For efficiency calculations, the capacity of the Eneloop is assumed to be 0.9 Wh in all modes.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>UV</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>122</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>45 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>44 hours</td>
<td>16.8</td>
<td>50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>32</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/ld02/LD02 med eneloop-115235643365298.png">graph</a></td>
<td>175 minutes</td>
<td>176 minutes</td>
<td>176 minutes</td>
<td>185 minutes</td>
<td>312</td>
<td>97</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>95</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/ld02/LD02 max eneloop-56869099835027.png">graph</a></td>
<td>45 minutes</td>
<td>107 seconds</td>
<td>37 minutes</td>
<td>55 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>46</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High (alkaline)</td>
<td>78</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/ld02/LD02 max alkaline-60194691132932.png">graph</a></td>
<td>40 minutes</td>
<td>113 seconds</td>
<td>31 minutes</td>
<td>37 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Calculating efficiency with the alkaline battery is not possible as its capacity under these conditions is not known, however it produced 30.6 lumen-hours on high, while the Eneloop produced 41.5. An accurate current measurement was not possible on high.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The LD02 v2.0 produces warm white light with a color temperature around 3200K. It's a little cooler than the average incandescent, but not much. The color rendering index is advertised as 90+, and I have no trouble believing it. The tint is a little greener and less even than I'd prefer, but only a little. Those who miss the look of incandescent bulbs should be pleased.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0937.JPG"></p>
<p>The UV emitter produces little visible light, though it does excite the phosphor of the white emitter enough to add some orange. Both the visible light produced and the appearance of UV-reactive objects are similar to a 365nmn Nichia 276A, but the UV of the LD02 is not focused evenly due to the offset position in the optic.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0936.JPG"></p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190814_050455_564.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190814_045348_890.jpg"></p>
<p>vs. BLF 348 219B</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190814_050438_419.jpg"></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190803_022425_544.jpg"></p>
<p>For comparison, BLF 348:</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190803_022458_084.jpg"></p>
<p>For comparison, Streamlight Microstream:</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190803_022529_317.jpg"></p>
<h3>UV</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190814_045244_252.jpg"></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/IMG_20190814_050201_956.jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The LD02 v2.0 is solidly built, with claimed IP68 dust/water resistance and 1 meter drop resistance. A brief immersion test showed no signs of water ingress. My only complaint is that the plastic optic is exposed without a glass lens, increasing the risk of scratches. Only the head is removable; neither the tail nor the bezel can be dissasmbled easily, due to what I assume is a large amount of strong adhesive.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/ld02/DSC_0935.JPG"></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The LD02 v2.0 has fine grooves for grip, and a switch that's easy to press, with good tactile feedback. It's small in the pocket, the clip is secure, but not unduely grabby. The grooves are effective at making the slim flashlight easy to manipulate. There are no issues here.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The only batteries recommended for the LD02 v2.0 are alkaline, lithium and NiMH AAA. Higher voltage 10440 Li-ions are specifically contraindicated in the manual. The manual indicates that NiMH is preferred, and my testing showed both higher output and longer runtime on high than alkaline.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The head of the LD02 v2.0 is quite well secured with threadlocker or glue. It might be possible to remove the bezel with heat and tools, but it would be difficult. So far, the temptation to try installing a Nichia E17A has not outpaced my desire to continue having a working LD02. This is not a modification-friendly light. </p>Warranty report and teardown: Viltrox FA-D102019-07-30T00:00:00+00:002019-07-30T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-07-30:/viltrox-fa-d10.html<p>The Viltrox FA-D10 is a 95 CRI, adustable-color-temperature, 800 lumen LED panel the size of a smartphone, with USB-C power and an internal battery. Mine failed after a minor impact, so I contacted Viltrox via Amazon for warranty replacement. They didn't ask for the old one back, so I took it apart....</p><p>This isn't a review. Not really. If you want a review, read <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67481">maukka's review</a>. Summary: the tint is perfect, and it does exactly what it says it does. The nearly 3-second long-press for on/off is the only real disadvantage.</p>
<p>I was very happy with mine until it stopped working. I dropped it a short distance onto a padded surface, which I expect any portable lighting to survive. It didn't. There was no response to the power button on battery, however the screen did turn on when plugged in, showing 100% charge. Turnign on the light resulted in a brief flash before it turned off. I suspected the battery had become disconnected, and it is not intended to be user-serviceable so I contacted Viltrox via Amazon on Sunday night and asked how to use the warranty. They asked for a couple of pictures to document the problem, and said they were sending a new one, expected Wednesday. It arrived Tuesday.</p>
<p>Viltrox didn't ask for the broken unit back, so I took it apart. After a failed attempt at prying, I realized I had a suction cup from a smartphone windshield mount I could try. That lifted the clear LED cover enough to get a wedge under it and pry it out.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fa-d10/DSC_0693.JPG"></p>
<p>The spacer here looked to me like it sat on top of the screws, so I pried it off. This was a mistake; it's only the double-sided tape that's on top of the screws. The spacer is screwed down, and the correct approach is to cut out small sections of the tape and unscrew them. I bent the spacer quite a bit.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fa-d10/DSC_0694.JPG"></p>
<p>Here's what's inside. The problem is hard to spot with eyes, but not hard to find with a voltmeter.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fa-d10/DSC_0695.JPG"></p>
<p>A closeup of the board might help.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fa-d10/DSC_0697.JPG"></p>
<p>One of the tabs on the battery was broken.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fa-d10/DSC_0698.JPG"></p>
<p>A bit of flux, a bit of solder, a bit of profanity, and it's re-attached. I cut six lengths out of the spacer to avoid the damaged screw holes and tacked them down with a bit of glue. I failed to photograph this, but I think imagination will suffice.</p>
<p>Here it is back together. This can be done without the scratches visible on the left side by using a suction cup.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fa-d10/DSC_0699.JPG"></p>
<p>I'm happy with how the company handled this and remain very satisfied with the product.</p>Review: Lumintop FW3A - perhaps the ultimate flashlight enthusiast's EDC light2019-05-24T00:00:00+00:002019-05-24T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-05-24:/lumintop-fw3a.html<p>The Lumintop FW3A is the result of two years of development on enthusiast forums BLF and TLF. It's one of the smallest 18650 flashlights, with three emitters, a tail e-switch, an open source firmware, and a firestarting 2800+ lumen burst mode. It already offers four LED options, with more to come, has great ergonomics, a fantastic user intefrace, optics that are nearly as easy to change as the battery, and no glue anywhere. Did I mention it's under $40? It's under $40.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.lumintop.com/fwa3.html">Lumintop FW3A</a> was purchased, by me, with my own money at the regular group-buy price available to the other 2000 or so people who signed up. I was not incentivized in any way to write this review. The FW3A is available at the group buy price of $36 for XP-L HI and $35 for 219C from <a href="https://photonphreaks.com/products/lumintop-fw3a-2800-lumen-cree-xpl-hi-triple-flashlight-designed-by-blf-tlf?variant=19487452102752">Photonphreaks</a> as of this writing.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0500(1).JPG"></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The FW3A is a mid-size everyday carry flashlight with three emitters, a TIR optic, running on an 18650 battery and using an electronic switch on the tailcap with a feature-packed open source firmware. It was created by and for flashlight enthusiasts for their own everyday use. It's intentionally easy to change emitters and optics; the firmware is open source; nothing is held together with adhesives, even where it would likely improve reliability. The target price of $30-36 for the group buy puts it solidly in budget enthusiast flashlight territory.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0521.JPG"></p>
<p>Most manufacturers leave out features or make design decisions based on what they think will appeal to the mass market rather than to enthusiasts. Enthusiasts get an occasional nod like an option for a neutral white or high-CRI emitter, but it's rational for manufacturers to pay more attention to larger markets. The FW3A does the opposite: it's usable by anyone who can read and understand the manual, but all potential conflicts between the needs of enthusiasts an the mass market have been resolved in the enthusiasts' favor. I find the concept spectacular. There's a reason I was one of the first people to get on the interest list.</p>
<p>In keeping with the intended target market, this review won't shy away from technical terms or explain them in as much detail as a review of a more consumer-oriented light would.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The FW3A is among the shortest 18650 lights on the market, and is similar in width to most 18650-powered EDC lights at 25mm. The exterior of the light is completely unmarked and finished in a medium-grey anodizing with a dark grey (black oxide?) finish on the pocket clip and a light-catching machined finish on the button. There are two bands of moderate knurling for extra grip. The shape is minimalist and has virtually no features that don't follow directly from the light's function. The pocket clip is a ring, rather than friction-fit design, and is designed to expose just enough of the tailcap to provide good purchase when removing the light from a pocket. The clip ring is slightly wider than the body tube or tailcap, causing a hotspot.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0516.JPG"></p>
<p>Emitters offered for the initial run are the Cree XP-L HI in warm, neutral, and cool white. A high-CRI emitter option in 4000K is expected in the near future, probably using the Luminus SST-20. The delay in availability appears to be due to sourcing issues, as the original high-CRI option was slated to be the Samsung LH351D. The optic is a Carclo 10511, which is narrowly focused, but frosted. There's a glass lens with an anti-reflective coating over the plastic optic.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0515.JPG"></p>
<p>The uncommon design feature of the FW3A is the tail e-switch. E-switches in budget lights are usually located on the side. Tail e-switches are increasingly common in mass-market lights like the Klarus XT series and Olight M2R, but nobody has paired one with a user interface quite like Anduril, ToyKeeper's feature-packed open source e-switch firmware. That firmware operates a FET+7+1 direct/linear hybrid driver, which trades some efficiency for compactness and brief spurts of raw output. Anduril is spectacular, offering a basic UI simple enough for nearly anyone, with a huge variety of hidden functionality for those who want to look. My only complaints are that it's a little too easy to miss the shortcut to moonlight. I started to write a complaint about the lowest stepped level not being a true moonlight, but thought to check whether that's configurable, and of course, it is.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0518.JPG"></p>
<p>he FW3A has emphasized compact size and light weight over heatsinking and radiation relative to lights with superficially similar goals like the Emisar D4, so those spurts of max output are indeed brief. I think that's a good trade for everyday carry, and the only major thing about the design that doesn't appeal to me is the low-CRI emitters. That's likely to be fixed soon with the planned release of the Luminus SST-20 in 4000K.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>The FW3A got a better testing phase than a lot of community-partnership projects have had in the past, so most of the bugs were worked out before release. There have, however been a few issues. Very early models had a minor UI glitch, which was fixed before mine shipped. Several people have reported loose driver retaining rings or tailcaps. My driver retaining ring was slightly loose and did not impact function, but might have eventually. A few people have reported dead or improperly soldered LEDs and missing O-rings. Mine was intact.</p>
<p>The build quality does have a couple minor rough edges that may stand out to people who notice good machining. The transition from the body tube to the head feels more abrupt at some points than others. I can't see a difference, but I can feel it if I pay attention. The sides of the clip have visible roughness from the tool used to cut it out. These issues don't matter at all from a functional perspective, but might bother people used to more expensive lights.</p>
<p>I expect QC issues to be cleaned up as production goes on, but there's another issue that may not be: the thermal sensor is not calibrated at the factory. I'd expect that to get fixed, but ToyKeeper communicated the need to do it in advance of production, and all the lights so far have shipped uncalibrated. Temperature check read 28C for me when the light was cool and the actual ambient temperature was around 19C. Calibration must be done, or thermal stepdowns will activate prematurely. Additionally, I experienced spurious stepdowns in muggle mode only until I also set the temperature limit to the default 45C. Fortunately, both the current and maximum temperature are easily set by the user.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0504.JPG"></p>
<p>So the FW3A, at this stage does have some rough edges. It may not be a good choice for people who don't like to tinker or who don't find flashlights interesting for their own sake. For those of us who <strong>do</strong>, the rough edges should be no issue. The FW3A is a great design, built well enough, and to a spectacular price point.</p>
<h3>Highlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>Convenient, responsive, and feature-packed UI</li>
<li>Open-source firmware</li>
<li>Tail e-switch, used well</li>
<li>Compact size</li>
<li>Very secure pocket clip</li>
<li>Excellent overall ergonomics</li>
<li>High maximum output</li>
<li>Very good thermal regulation</li>
<li>Tint options include a true, near-incandescent warm, rarely offered in modern flashlights</li>
<li>No glue anywhere</li>
<li>Modification-friendly</li>
</ul>
<h3>Lowlights</h3>
<ul>
<li>QC problems are a little too frequent for my liking</li>
<li>Similar to a Zebralight, timing the shortcut to moonlight can be tricky</li>
<li>Thermal calibration should be done at the factory</li>
<li>Muggle mode is prone to spurious thermal stepdowns even after calibration</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The FW3A comes in warm (3200K), neutral (5000K), and cool (6500K) white XP-L HI, and neutral (4000K) white 90 CRI 219C. This is the warm white XP-L HI version. Another high-CRI emitter option, a 4000K, 95 CRI Luminus SST-20 is planned for the near future.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The FW3A comes with a user manual, "insert battery from head" card, and spare O-rings. For a budget-priced light aimed at enthusiasts, that's a generous accessory package; many just expect the user to read the UI diagram from the product page.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0522.JPG"></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The Anduril firmware is very sophisticated and configurable, but the basic user interface is simple:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-ramp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Ramp-min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Ramp-max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Increase brightness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click, then hold</td>
<td>Decrease brightness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>FET-max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>FET-max</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Last-ramp</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>This is very similar to an Olight, Thrunite, or Acebeam e-switch UI. Some Acebeams even have the similar concept of a lower-turbo and higher-turbo toggled by a second double-click. Absent from most of those is a decrease-brightness action. Ramp-min and ramp-max are configurable, but the defaults are the lowest possible level (under 1 lumen), and the highest regulated level (around 800 lumens).</p>
<p>Here are the secondary modes available:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>On (steady mode)</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Switch between continuous dimming and fixed modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Battery check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Battery check</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle between battery check, sunset, beacon, and temperature check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click, then hold</td>
<td>Last-used strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Cycle strobes (candle, bike, party, tactical, lightning)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Adjust speed/brightness up</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Click, then hold</td>
<td>Adjust speed/brightness down</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Four fast clicks</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Ramp-min (while held)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Four fast clicks</td>
<td>Off (normal)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Five fast clicks</td>
<td>Momentary</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Momentary</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Last-ramp (while held)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Momentary</td>
<td>Disconnect battery</td>
<td>Off (normal)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>6 clicks</td>
<td>Muggle mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Muggle</td>
<td>6 clicks</td>
<td>Off (normal)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The only way out of momentary is to briefly unscrew the head enough to disconnect battery power. Muggle mode is a simplified version of the main UI with a range of 7 to 256 lumens and no shortcuts. Thermal regulation is a hard stepdown to 7 lumens and sometimes triggers when it shouldn't. ToyKeeper suspects it's due to sensor noise.</p>
<p>I won't detail how to access all the configuration options to keep the length sensible, but here's what can be adjusted:</p>
<ul>
<li>Lowest ramp level</li>
<li>Highest ramp level</li>
<li>The number of modes in fixed-mode operation (2-150, default 7)</li>
<li>Lowest fixed mode</li>
<li>Highest fixed mode</li>
<li>What the sensor believes the current temperature is</li>
<li>The maximum allowed temperature before thermal throttling</li>
<li>Beacon blink speed</li>
</ul>
<p>One thing that isn't here that I wish was is the ability to turn memory off and replace it with a configurable default level (default: 1x7135, such that all shortcuts but moonlight go to non-PWM levels).</p>
<h2>Output, runtime, and efficiency</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified high-drain 18650 battery. Tested performance is with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery rated for 30A continuous discharge when the temperature is monitored and limited to 80C.</p>
<p>Modes listed as n/7 are the default stepped ramp modes. Regulated max and 7/7 are the same.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Min</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1/7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2/7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>20</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3/7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>88</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>34</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4/7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>166</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>46</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Muggle-max</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>256</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5/7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>335</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>65</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6/7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>567</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>85</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Regulated-max (ramp-max default)</td>
<td>760</td>
<td>813</td>
<td>107</td>
<td>110</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max (0s)</td>
<td>2800</td>
<td>2913</td>
<td>104</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>189</td>
<td>94.5</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Runtimes without graphs are estimated from power consumption. Regulated-max measurements were taken with fan cooling. Unlike most lights, there are no advertised runtimes for the FW3A.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~17 years</td>
<td>21.7 uA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Min</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~4 months</td>
<td>~1</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1/7</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 days</td>
<td>17.5</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2/7</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>33 hours</td>
<td>89</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3/7</td>
<td>88</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/fw3a/FW3A 350mA VTC6 uncooled-213783777316052.png">graph</a></td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>239</td>
<td>95</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4/7</td>
<td>166</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6.7 hours</td>
<td>446</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5/7</td>
<td>335</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/fw3a/FW3A mode5 VTC6 uncooled-186933350398855.png">graph</a></td>
<td>186 minutes</td>
<td>195 minutes</td>
<td>200 minutes</td>
<td>954</td>
<td>90</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6/7</td>
<td>567</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.8 hours</td>
<td>1670</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Regulated-max</td>
<td>813</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/fw3a/FW3A ramp-max VTC6 fan-355172891433.png">graph</a></td>
<td>9.5</td>
<td>71</td>
<td>75</td>
<td>2880</td>
<td>81</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>While regulated-max first drops below 80% at 9.5 minutes, it stays very near that level until the 71 minute low-voltage stepdown. This level will experience thermal throttling in most environments. The 7135 chips do not have significant heatsinking, so they can trigger some thermal throttling even when the body of the light isn't very hot. This effect is more pronounced when the battery is full, as linear regulators turn any voltage the LEDs don't need into heat.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="/static/photos/fw3a/FW3A ramp-max VTC6 uncooled-72628713355747.png">Regulated-max, uncooled</a></li>
<li><a href="/static/photos/fw3a/FW3A thermal-348144424462000.png">FET-max stepdown</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The FW3A is a triple using the Carclo 10511 frosted narrow spot optic. This optic produces a smooth beam pattern with intensity increasing in a gradient toward the center, but no distinct regions of the beam like the hotspot a reflector usually produces. It also produces no significant artifacts like many multi-emitter beams do. For anyone who doesn't like that, see the modifications section at the bottom; you can have anything but throwy.</p>
<p>The XP-L HI 7A has a nice tint if 3000-3300K is your thing. It's noticeably rosy next to an incandescent and looks good on a white wall. It is, however low in CRI with about 70 being typical. This does make for noticeably dull, muted colors, especially outdoors. I'm eager for the SST-20 version, which will likely look worse on a monochrome surface, but better everywhere else as well as improving the user's ability to recognize details in objects.</p>
<p>The FW3A uses fast PWM at most levels. It is not visible to my eyes under any circumstances, and its effects are further mitigated by leaving the lower channels on steady, so it's cycling between two levels rather than between on and off. An electronic rolling shutter, as used in most smartphone cameras may record scanlines at very high shutter speeds, but this usually requires pathological camera settings or attempting to photograph the emitters directly.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/IMG_20190523_215639_835.jpg"></p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p>vs. BLF 348 219B</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/IMG_20190522_235148_775.jpg"></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/IMG_20190519_023357_363(1).jpg"></p>
<p>For comparison: Astrolux S41 (219B quad)</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/IMG_20190519_023439_366(1).jpg"></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The FW3A is well built where it counts. It's airtight and waterproof. The threads work smoothly. The electrical bits make contact reliably if everything is tightened, which it may not be from the factory. The clip holds reliably. It's a bit rough in points where it matters less though, with some machining not feeling quite symmetrical, especially where the head meets the body on mine. Exposed anodizing looks even and smooth to me, but not so precise inside the body tube.</p>
<p>If you're not a reviewer or a machinist, you probably won't notice, but the FW3A's low price does show through here just a bit.</p>
<p>Lumintop's product page claims IP68 waterproofing. A brief immersion showed no signs of water ingress.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0504 (1).JPG"></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The shape of the FW3A is about as perfect as an 18650-powered EDC light can be. The clip has just the right amount of ramp to deal with thick pockets, but doesn't stick out enough to snag on things. The tension is enough to be secure, but it isn't hard to remove from a pocket. The tailcap sticks out enough to be easy to grab, and no more (though I'm aware some prefer deep/flush carry). The button is impossible to miss when trying to press it, but hard to press by accident. There's enough knurling where it's needed for easy manipulation, and no more. Hammer and cigar grips both work and provide access to the button with one hand.</p>
<p>Ergonomics are probably the FW3A's greatest strength for the average user, and I have but one complaint: the ring of the pocket clip sticks out a bit from the body and tailcap, which can be a hotspot.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The FW3A requires a single 18650 Li-ion rechargeable battery, which is not included. Batteries should be rated for at least 10A continuous discharge. Peak current may exceed that number, but thermal regulation limits that to a few seconds at a time. Protected batteries do not fit. While there are springs on both ends of the battery tube, they're short and primarily intended for maintaining reliable contact rather than allowing variation in battery length. Batteries should be very close to 65mm long.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>If ever there was a factory flashlight built with modification in mind, the FW3A is it. Nothing is held together with adhesives, even though unscrewing the tailcap is likely to lose parts. The Carclo 10500 series optics offer more and less focused options, clear and frosted options, and even an elliptical beam that might make a decent bike light. Replacing the optic is nearly as easy as replacing the battery.</p>
<p>Replacing LEDs can also be easy, with vendors like MTN Electronics, Intl-Outdoor, and Kaidomain selling LEDs pre-mounted on compatible triple boards. Anyone with minimal soldering skills has several LED families, color temperatures, and CRI ratings available to them. Those who can reflow onto the original, or a third-party board have even more options, including any Cree XP-series, Samsung LH351 series, LG 3535, Luxeon V, Nichia 219 and 319 series, and Luminus SST-20.</p>
<p>I chose the Nichia 219B sw45k R9080 for this FW3A.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/DSC_0512.JPG"></p>
<p>The firmware, too is easily replaced. The manual even includes the URL to a <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36216">BLF thread</a> detailing the procedure. My emitter of choice for my first FW3A is the Nichia 219B, which can't handle the maximum FET level. It needs a tweak to the firmware, which ToyKeeper has already published.</p>
<p>I prefer a shortcut to medium instead of memory, which is a trivial change to make. I also prefer moonlight only activating when its time gate is reached, which I've changed in a crude manner and may refine later. I've published that change <a href="http://zakreviews.com/anduril-amnesia/ToyKeeper/spaghetti-monster/anduril/">here</a> and will probably keep it up to date. It's not pretty, because I have very little idea what I'm doing with bzr. I may eventually rehost it on Github or something later, but for now I'm making some attempt to stick with the original VCS. This also includes ToyKeeper's latest thermal regulation revisions, which should result in less ringing while trying to find a stable level. Yes, it's 2019, and there are software updates for flashlights.</p>
<p>Here are the performance results with the 219B:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>-</th>
<th>1x7135</th>
<th>8x7135</th>
<th>50% FET</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Lumens</td>
<td>139</td>
<td>942 (0s) / 763 (30s)</td>
<td>1792 (0s)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throw 10511</td>
<td>37m</td>
<td>95m (0s)</td>
<td>134m (0s)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throw 10507</td>
<td>39m</td>
<td>104m (0s)</td>
<td>183m (0s)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>With a 10507, vs the BLF 348 219B on the right. Oddly, the 348 looks more purple in the photo, which it didn't in person.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/IMG_20190523_200144_748.jpg"></p>
<p>Outdoors, with the 10507.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/fw3a/IMG_20190523_224248_860.jpg"></p>
<p>I tried polishing a 10511 using 2000 grit sandpaper and 0.5 micron diamond paste as I've seen it suggested that results in more throw while still having a smoother beam than the 10507. It didn't; instead, it reduced output and throw slightly without any visible effect on the beam pattern.</p>
<p>Here's 6 minutes of the new thermal behavior with 219Bs and the 50% FET limit. Output climbs slowly after the initial throttling and stabilizes around 3 minutes. Fan cooling is applies at 3.5 minutes and results in a gradual increase in output through the end of the test.</p>
<p><a href="/static/photos/fw3a/FW3A new firmware 219B thermal-278261246118210.png">New thermal behavior</a></p>Review: Oveready BOSS 70 - the most expensive flashlight I've ever used2019-04-15T00:00:00+00:002019-04-15T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-04-15:/oveready-boss.html<p>The Overready BOSS is the most expensive flashlight I've ever reviewed, and the best built. It's also one of the least efficient at higher outputs, and falls well short of its claimed performance. That's unfortunate, because its Lux-RC buck/boost driver is one of its major selling points over other high-priced lights which mostly use simpler electronics.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.oveready.com/flashlights/bright-output-small-size/boss-flashlights/">Oveready BOSS</a> was loaned to me by <a href="https://zeroair.org">zeroair</a>.</p>
<p>I didn't take as many pictures as I usually do for a review. Mine wouldn't have been as good as those in <a href="https://zeroair.org/2017/05/01/zeroair-reviews-torchlab-boss-3570/">zeroair's review</a> anyway. Note that it's exactly the same unit being reviewed in both.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/boss/boss.jpg"/></p>
<h2>Concept</h2>
<p>The BOSS (Big Output Small Size) is a luxury EDC flashlight based on the <a href="https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/lux-rc-371d-integrated-triple-led-pcb-20mm/">Lux-RC 371D integrated light engine</a> and a custom host built by Oveready. It's meant to be an ultra-high-output light, with its claimed output of 3498 lumens in the brightest configuration exceeding what's typical of hobbyist-built direct-drive triples using the same emitters. When the BOSS was first released, it would have been hard to find a factory EDC light claiming more output, as the Emisar D4 was not yet available. The price is $409 for the 18650-length aluminum version, making it the most expensive flashlight I've ever used.</p>
<p>I must admit I may not be the best at evaluating luxury product concepts, but I can say the concept here is subtle: a well-tailored suit rather than a huge gold chain, and I like that. There are 18650/2x18350 (BOSS 70) and 1x18350 (BOSS 35) bodies available separately.</p>
<h2>Design</h2>
<p>The BOSS is a triple-emitter light with a choice of Cree XP-L HI (~70 CRI) in 5700K, 4000K, 3000K or Nichia 219C (90+ CRI) in 4000K. There's a secondary emitter in a choice of red or amber. It uses the popular Carclo 10507 optic, so the beam pattern will be similar to many other EDC-size triples. Previously, "redomed" emitters where the original dome has been removed and replaced with something flatter have been available, and possibly some other options. This was a competitive emitter selection when the BOSS was released, but in 2019, it would be nice to see some of the more recent popular options like the Samsung LH351D and Luminus SST-20.</p>
<p>There's a glow in the dark O-ring in the head putting out a strong green glow after use. The switch is a McClicky from McGizmo. The body has an unusual shape, tapering gradually from the head to the tail, then flaring outward abruptly just before the tail. This shape provides excellent retention in the hand despite a smooth surface. This BOSS is satin-anodized aluminum, but several other materials are available including copper, titanium, and zirconium.</p>
<p>The driver has some uncommon features, including a unique optical programming system. A <a href="http://lux-rc.com/content/NXS/NXS_R1_setup/R1">web application</a> on the Lux-RC site allows customizing the set of modes (up to 4), low-voltage protection, mode memory, timed rampdown ("battery stretch") and "bounce" sensor to shut off the light if an object comes too close to the lens. The UI is a blink-to-change-mode design typical of mechanical switch lights. As the switch is a forward-clicky with half-press for momentary, it's easy to set the mode when first turning on the light, and less easy to change modes later.</p>
<h2>Execution</h2>
<p>I hereby retract every review I've written in which I said anything else was "well-machined". The construction of this host is amazingly precise. The threads are amazingly smooth. The anodizing is <strong>thick</strong> and smooth in a way that's hard to describe. I should note the longer body included with this light was actually a QC reject given to zeroair for testing purposes, but I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The machining standards must be very high indeed. The ergonomics, at least with the longer body, are perfect. The clip slides into the pocket easily, but has very strong retention. Everything about the host just feels well-done. It's quite compact as well for a light with a mechanical tailswitch.</p>
<p>But there are a lot of fancy hosts in the luxury flashlight market; what really sets the BOSS apart is the Lux-RC 371D driver. Unfortunately, that's where the BOSS falls short: full output in "30W" mode with XP-L HI emitters and two IMR 18350 cells is advertised as 3498 lumens. I measured 2236 lumens at 30 seconds. With a single Li-ion, max output is advertised as 2000 lm. I measured 1070 lm @ 30s. Efficiency on max mode with a single 18650 is a terrible 52 lm/W. Lower modes are as high as 111 lm/W, which isn't <strong>bad</strong>, but not what I expect from such an expensive light where a fancy buck/boost driver is a major selling point. The Thrunite TC15 is 1/8 the price and hits 141 lm/W in its 250 lumen medium and 110 lm/W at 1050 lumens on a single 18650.</p>
<p>I'll repeat that I probably don't have the right mentality to evaluate luxury products. The decision to buy a $400 EDC flashlight is going to be based primarily on aesthetic and emotional motivations, and my review style focuses primarily on functional use as an illumination tool. In that role, the BOSS is fine, but doesn't really stand out and falls well short of what it promises. As a luxury product... if it makes you happier than $400 does, I certainly won't try to talk you out of it.</p>
<h2>Highlights</h2>
<ul>
<li>Spectacularly good build quality</li>
<li>Excellent ergonomics</li>
<li>One of the best pocket clips ever put on a flashlight</li>
<li>Beautiful satin finish</li>
<li>Common, easily changed/customized optics (this one had trits added to the legs)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Lowlights</h2>
<ul>
<li>Falls well short of advertised performance</li>
<li>Driver efficiency ranges from middling to terrible, especially on a single Li-ion cell</li>
<li>Emitter options are a bit dated in 2019; it would be nice to see the SST-20 and LH351D, perhaps the LH351C as well</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The BOSS comes in any combination of 18650/2x18350 or 1x18350, XP-L HI (neutral or warm) or 219C (neutral) and a choice of materials. Currently offered are satin black aluminum, brass, copper, and titanium. Raw aluminum and zirconium have been offered, and there have been other emitter options.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The BOSS does not include any accessories, but some are available for purchase, including a disassembly tool and a cap to use a spare body as perhaps the world's most expensive battery carrier.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The usual UI table doesn't work well here. The BOSS uses a mechanical forward-clicky switch, where a half press supplies power momentarily and a full press locks it on. Briefly interrupting power advances to the next mode in the cycle. In practice, one accesses the desired mode form off by a series of half-presses followed by a full press. Changing modes while on requires switching the light off.</p>
<p>The modes are chosen using the Lux-RC optical programming website. There can be one to four modes, and those modes may consist of:</p>
<ul>
<li>The red or amber secondary emitter on low output</li>
<li>SOS</li>
<li>10 Hz strobe</li>
<li>A preprogrammed flashing beacon with the secondary emitter</li>
<li>A custom blinking mode with one or two flashes from the primary or secondary emitters, with custom on and off time</li>
<li>Any of 31 (on one cell) or 33 (on 2 cells) steady output levels</li>
</ul>
<p>Additionally, the following may be configuired:</p>
<ul>
<li>Memory - none, normal, or hybrid where last-used is remembered, but the mode after will be the first mode in the cycle</li>
<li>Low-voltage protection on or off</li>
<li>Low-voltage stepdown or constant output</li>
<li>"Bounce" - object proximity detection and sensitivity, to keep it from melting things</li>
</ul>
<p>There are additional options intended to be set by the flashlight vendor. I did not explore trying to override them. They are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Switch timing</li>
<li>Temperature limit</li>
<li>One-cell output limit</li>
<li>Two-cell output limit</li>
<li>Programming PIN code</li>
</ul>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Notes: not all modes are included. Modes are given in claimed Watts, which do not match measured power consumption. Tests were conducted with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery, except where "18350" is noted. 18350 tests were conducted with Aspire "1300 mAh" (actual capacity ~1150 mAh) 18350 batteries.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>3W</td>
<td>346</td>
<td>156</td>
<td>45</td>
<td>56</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4W</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>226</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>68</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5.4W</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>346</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>81</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6.5W</td>
<td>758</td>
<td>440</td>
<td>58</td>
<td>95</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>8.8W</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>590</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>110</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>17W</td>
<td>1933</td>
<td>1070</td>
<td>55.3</td>
<td>148</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>30W</td>
<td>3498</td>
<td>2236</td>
<td>63.9</td>
<td>217</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>3W</td>
<td>156</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>338</td>
<td>111</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4W</td>
<td>226</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>491</td>
<td>111</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5.4W</td>
<td>320</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4 hours</td>
<td>703</td>
<td>110</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6.5W</td>
<td>440</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/boss/BOSS VTC6 6.5W uncooled-10750120934253.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>111 minutes</td>
<td>111 minutes</td>
<td>111 minutes</td>
<td>1014</td>
<td>94.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6.5W (2x18350)</td>
<td>440</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/boss/BOSS 2xAspire 6.5W uncooled-18277787532899.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>99 minutes</td>
<td>99 minutes</td>
<td>99 minutes</td>
<td>1014</td>
<td>107.8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>8.8W</td>
<td>590</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2 hours</td>
<td>1457</td>
<td>98</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>17W</td>
<td>1070</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/boss/BOSS VTC6 max fan-5840276514121.png">graph</a></td>
<td>75 minutes</td>
<td>32 minutes</td>
<td>32 minutes</td>
<td>32 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>52.4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>30W (2x18350)</td>
<td>2236</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/boss/BOSS 2xAspire max fan-3600114881769.png">graph</a></td>
<td>20 minutes</td>
<td>6 minutes</td>
<td>22 minutes</td>
<td>22 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>81.3</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Where a graph is present, efficiency and runtime numbers are derived from the graph. Where absent, they are estimated from power consumption measured with a full, or near-full battery and do not account for the effect of battery voltage on driver efficiency.</p>
<p>Since a smartphone and a shoebox may not be the most accurate optical instrument, I also measured intensity (11786 cd @ 0s) and got the throwiness of the 10507 with XP-L HI from maukka: 5.1 cd/lm. That's 2311 lm@0s. zeroair measured 11774 cd@30s, for 2308 lm@30s. My measurment of 1070 lm on a single cell does fall a bit short of zeroair's 6658 cd = 1305 lm.</p>
<p>By way of comparison, I measured 54 lm/W from my Astrolux S41/219B in its 1010 lumen mode (one down from max). The S41 has an extra emitter, but 219Bs are known for beauty, not efficiency, and FET drivers are <strong>quite</strong> inefficient. The Lumintop FW3A, having the same number and type of emitters as this BOSS measured 81 lm/W in its max-regulated (~800lm) mode.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>This BOSS is an XP-L HI triple with a Carclo 10507 optic. The beam is the same as others with the same emitters and optic: stronger in the center, but no real hotspot, or alternately a giant hotspot with no real spill. There are mild artifacts. The tint is great on a white wall: 4000K and slightly rosy with no significant tint shift or off-colors. I was very aware of the low-ish CRI outdoors, but a high-CRI emitter option is offered.</p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The machining of the BOSS is spectacular - the best I've seen in a flashlight. Everything fits <strong>perfectly</strong> and looks amazing. The threads are silky smooth. I'm running out of superlatives.</p>
<p>I don't see a waterproofing claim on the product page. I did not perform an immersion test, as this light is <strong>very</strong> expensive and not mine. I do expect it's waterproof.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The BOSS ergonomics are very good. The taper of the light from the head to just before the flared tail lock the light into the hand without the need for rough textures. The ramp and tension of the pocket clip are great. The flared base allows a cigar grip.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>With the 70mm body, the BOSS can use one 18650, two 18350, 16340, or CR123A batteries. With the 35mm body, the BOSS can use one 18350, 16340, or CR123A. High-drain batteries are recommended. Correct operation on CR123A requires a different configuration using the webapp and results in reduced output.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>This BOSS was modified with tritium vials in the optic legs and a glow in the dark switch boot. As emitters are integral on the driver, emitter swaps without changing the driver are very difficult, though the entire driver package is available for purchase. Optic swaps are easy, and Oveready sells a tool to make removing the bezel without marring it easier.</p>Review: Thrunite TC20 - a powerful house/car light with USB charging2019-04-15T00:00:00+00:002019-04-15T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-04-15:/thrunite-tc20.html<p>The Thrunite TC20 is a mid-size light for the house, car, backpack, and jacket pocket. Its high initial output of 3800 lumens and sustainable 1800 lumens make it well-suited to most tasks not requiring large amounts of throw. USB charging, a large-capacity 26650 battery, and excellent efficiency provide convenience and long runtime.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-tc20-3800-lumen-flashlight/">Thrunite TC20</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. Try coupon code "20%" to save 20% on some products at thrunite.com including the TC20 as of this writing. The TC20 is also <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TC20-Neutral-White/dp/B078JYVJCS/?tag=zakwilson01-20">available on Amazon</a>.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0494.JPG"/></p>
<h1>Concept</h1>
<p>The TC20 is a mid-size general-purpose light with high maximum output and USB charging. Based on a 26650 Li-ion rechargeable battery, it's larger than most people would consider for pocket carry, but is suitable for a belt holster. The size fits most use cases other than everyday carry, and the 26650 hold a lot of energy. While some might question the use of a 26650 rather than a 21700, the question is largely academic for most users who aren't buying multiple lights and standardizing on a battery type.</p>
<p>The overall concept is solid. The TC20 is a light for the house or car, or for when you know you're going to be using it. Thrunite tells me the TC20 was their best selling light in 2018, which I found surprising since Thrunite sells several small lights under $20. Lumens sell lights, I suppose, and 3800 is not a small number.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0496.JPG"/></p>
<h1>Design</h1>
<p>The TC20 has a space-efficient body that takes up as much space as the light's features require, and not more. It shares its general look with the T10 II and Neutron, oddly including the hex-shaped anti-roll area found on those lights, but in combination with a head that's wider so no anti-roll functionality is actually present. The side switch is more proud than on pocket-oriented models so it can be felt through gloves.</p>
<p>The emitter is a Cree XHP70.2. Thrunite has wisely used a textured reflector with this emitter to reduce the rainbow appearence of the beam for which it is infamous. The user interface is Thrunite's usual e-switch design in which a short press is always on/off and there are shortcuts from off directly to the lowest, highest, and last-used modes. No color rendering index is specified, which is typical for the industry, but something I'd like to see all manufacturers improve. CRI helps to show detail and more quickly identify objects. I'd like to see more modes or ramping in a light with such a wide output range, though the modes the TC20 does have look fairly well-spaced.</p>
<p>The USB charging is Micro-B rather than the USB-C used by most phones and tablets released in the past several years. Some may prefer this since the old connector is still ubiquitous, but as far as I'm concerned, it can't die soon enough. I wish the TC20, along with every other recently-introduced product with a USB port was USB-C.</p>
<p>The design fits the concept well, offering a lot of performance and convenience to a broad audience.</p>
<h1>Execution</h1>
<p>The TC20 is well made. My only concern with the manufacturing relates to waterproofing. There was a lack of lubrication on the threads and o-rings. Lubrication is important for reliable waterproofing. My contact at Thrunite assures me they're aware this is a problem and that it should be fixed on newly produced lights. The only protection for water ingress through the USB port is a rubber flap; the port is not sealed when the flap is open.</p>
<p>Like many recent Thrunite products, the TC20 uses an LED that requires more voltage than the battery can provide, so it has a boost driver. A usual effect of using a boost driver is that output does not depend on battery voltage. That wasn't the case with the TC20 in the highest mode with output being reduced enough to notice with the naked eye when the battery was drained to about 40%. I found that adding an extra conductor to each spring in the tailcap significantly improved output on a low battery.</p>
<p>Output is within the margin of error of the claim; I measured 3624 lumen at 30 seconds. Throw is not with 320m claimed and my repeated measurements all coming in under 250. The median number was 248, which is a bit lower than the 263 <a href="https://zeroair.org/2018/01/26/thrunite-tc20-flashlight-review/">zeroair</a> got. While there's nothing wrong with the TC20 being very floody, I do have to criticize it for the optimistic throw claim. Prior experience with Thrunite has led me to expect accurate numbers. Efficiency numbers are <strong>great</strong>, reaching as high as 183 lm/W on medium.</p>
<p>Overall, the TC20 is well-done and will serve its intended role quite well.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0495.JPG"/></p>
<h2>Highlights</h2>
<ul>
<li>The UI is convenient with shortcuts to high, low, and last-used and a single click for on/off</li>
<li>1800+ lumens are available regardless of battery charge level (other than empty, of course)</li>
<li>Class-leading efficiency of 183 lm/W on medium, and very good efficiency in other modes</li>
<li>All-in-one package includes a battery and has USB charging</li>
<li>Very stable tailstanding</li>
</ul>
<h2>Lowlights</h2>
<ul>
<li>The XHP70.2 has tint shift across the beam, too much green, and poor color rendering. This is common to most lights using newer Cree emitters.</li>
<li>The TC20 is only waterproof with the USB flap closed; air expansion due to heat on higher modes can cause the flap to open in use.</li>
<li>The advertised throw number is not accurate.</li>
<li>With a range of 0.5 to 3800 lumens, 5 modes doesn't seem like enough. Ramping, as on the Neutron might be a good solution here.</li>
<li>It's 2019. New products should not be introduced using the MicroUSB connector, which is directional and fragile. USB-C has been standard on smartphones for several years and it's about time for it to be standard on everything else.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The TC20 is available in cool white and neutral white. This is the neutral white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TC20 includes a battery, USB cable, holster, lanyard, a split ring, spare O-rings, and a spare rubber seal for the switch button. All are of satisfactory quality, but I would have liked to see a MOLLE-compatible strap on the holster.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0491.JPG"/></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0492.JPG"/></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>last-used (of low, medium, or high)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (except max)</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>hold</td>
<td>cycle low/medium/high</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Unscrewing the head of the light a quarter turn locks out operation and eliminates standby power consumption. Unscrewing the tailcap does not have this effect.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with a Thrunite 5000 mAh 26650 battery. Testing was performed using a Thrunite 5000 mAh 26650 battery unless otherwise noted. Advertised runtimes are without additional cooling. Measured runtimes are <strong>with</strong> fan cooling.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Percent of claim</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>38</td>
<td>39</td>
<td>102.6</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>26</td>
<td>81.3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>320</td>
<td>306</td>
<td>95.6</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>72</td>
<td>77.4</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1800</td>
<td>1726</td>
<td>95.9</td>
<td>220</td>
<td>171</td>
<td>77.7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>3800</td>
<td>3624</td>
<td>95.4</td>
<td>320</td>
<td>248</td>
<td>77.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo (50% battery)</td>
<td>3800</td>
<td>2384</td>
<td>62.7</td>
<td>320</td>
<td>201</td>
<td>62.8</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>6 years</td>
<td>0.093</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>37 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>46 days</td>
<td>4.56</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>39</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>46 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>83 hours</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>306</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tc20/TC20 med-229093151641.png">graph</a></td>
<td>10.2 hours</td>
<td>11.2 hours</td>
<td>11.2 hours</td>
<td>11.2 hours</td>
<td>430</td>
<td>183</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1726</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tc20/TC20 high cooled-143915765992931.png">graph</a></td>
<td>145 minutes</td>
<td>91 minutes</td>
<td>95 minutes</td>
<td>98 minutes</td>
<td>3040</td>
<td>143</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>3624</td>
<td><a href="/static/photos/tc20/TC20 max fan-139109246277.png">graph</a></td>
<td>130 minutes</td>
<td>3 minutes</td>
<td>4 minutes</td>
<td>88 minutes</td>
<td>7500</td>
<td>134</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="/static/photos/tc20/TC20 high-47335433059137.png">High, uncooled</a></li>
<li><a href="/static/photos/tc20/TC20 max uncooled-20523118981953.png">Max, uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The TC20 uses a Cree XHP70.2, part of Cree's first high-power flip-chip line. The entire line is known for excess green in its tint and tint shift across the beam. The TC20 is no exception, but does mitigate the tint shift to a degree with a textured reflector to smooth out the beam. Color rendering is average for the industry with subtle differences in color being washed out.</p>
<p>There is no PWM or detectable ripple in any mode.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/IMG_20190324_022355_290.jpg"/></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/IMG_20190324_022703_238.jpg"/></p>
<p>vs BLF 348</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/IMG_20190509_000911_379.jpg"/></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>Contstruction of the TC20 is typical Thrunite: there are no machining flaws visible, anodizing is thick, and the threads come without significant lubrication. That last bit could have an impact on waterproofing, and I would recommend owners lubricate the threads themselves with silicone grease. Thrunite has assured me that the factory has been told to increase lubrication of lights produced in the future.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0436.JPG"/></p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0439.JPG"/></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The TC20 feels good in the hand with sufficient, but not overly aggressive knurling. The button is more proud than on EDC-oriented models and easy to find by feel with bare hands. It's possible with gloves, though a recessed button would be easier. The included holster is entirely adequate for belt use, but the strap is sewn in place so it's not usable with MOLLE or other fixed webbing.</p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The included battery is a protected button-top with a Thrunite branded wrapper. As with Thrunite's 18650s, the wrapper is semi-transparent and the markings of the underlying cell can be read. It's a Sinowatt SW26650-50ME. On my Opus BT-C3100, the capacity tests at 5595 mAh.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0425.JPG"/></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The TC20 provides some opportunities for enhancement. When I noticed output being reduced when the battery is low, I thought the resistance of the springs might play a role. Bypassing them using desoldering braid did, indeed improve the situation. While performance on a full (4.2V) battery is unaffected, at 3.7V, output climbs from 2384 lumens to 2950.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0441.JPG"/></p>
<p>The bezel is not glued and was fairly easy to unscrew, granting access to the reflector and emimtter. The MCPCB is an uncommon square shape, but there's plenty of room to use third-party round boards. The centering ring on my sample appears to be improperly struck, but not in a way that affects function.</p>
<p><img class="image-process-article-image" src="static/photos/tc20/DSC_0490.JPG"/></p>
<p>I've struggled to find an XHP70 or substitute I'm really happy with. I had decent results with a shaved 90 CRI 4500K XHP70A in my Acebeam L30, but dome-on in the Thrunite TH30, it was fairly green and had some artifacts. There, I corrected it with a filter and diffusion film. The same approach would work with the TC20, but it would become a pure flooder. I wonder if there's an optic and MCPCB I could fit in this for a multi-emitter setup.</p>
<p>A Cree XHP50 or Nichia 144A is likely usable here for more throw. I think it's likely too much current for a quad Nichia E21A. The Cree MT-G2 might just barely clear the opening in the reflector.</p>
<h2>Recommendations to the manufacturer</h2>
<ul>
<li>Provide better lubrication on the threads</li>
<li>Add a snap or velcro to the loop on the holster so it will work with MOLLE</li>
<li>Use lower-resistance springs or add a secondary current path from the battery to the tailcap</li>
</ul>Review: Thrunite TC15, a powerful single-emitter EDC flashlight with USB2019-01-19T00:00:00+00:002019-01-19T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-01-19:/thrunite-tc15.html<p>The TC15 is a USB-rechargeable general-purpose and everyday carry light from Thrunite with unusually high output for its size. It's powered by a single 18650 rechargeable battery (included), uses a Cree XHP35 LED and advertises an output of 2300 lumens and throw distance of 246m - figures it actually achieves. It also maintains a stable level around 1000 lumens even when the battery is low.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-tc15-2300-lumen-chargeable-edc-flashlight-18650-imr-battery-included/">Thrunite TC15</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. Try coupon code "20%" to save 20% on some products at thrunite.com including the TC15 as of this writing. The TC15 is also <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLKWQBR/?tag=zakwilson01-20">available on Amazon</a> (affiliate link) from Thrunite Direct, often for a lower price than thrunite.com.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/No3CePh</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The TC15 is a USB-rechargeable general-purpose and everyday carry light from Thrunite with unusually high output for its size. It's powered by a single 18650 rechargeable battery (included), uses a Cree XHP35 LED and advertises an output of 2300 lumens and throw distance of 246m - figures it actually achieves. Despite its similar appearance, my contact at Thrunite assures me the TC15 is not a replacement for the Neutron 2C, rather, both models will remain available for the forseeable future. The Neutron offers a more versatile set of features, while the TC15 focuses on high output.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/dfWrIkI.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/dfWrIkI.jpg"></a></p>
<p>That output will be front and center in most discussions of the TC15. Several manufacturers have made less impressive performance claims for lights using the XHP35 and failed to meet them. The TC15, however does exactly what Thrunite says it does, at least, it does when the LED is centered properly. Mine arrived off-center and fell a little short until I adjusted it, which is not a problem I've seen in a Thrunite product before. There are five brightness levels plus a hidden strobe, and shortcuts from off to the lowest, highest, and last-used. A single click of the button is always on/off. The metal button is neither recessed nor very prominent, making it a little hard to find by feel. A red/blue LED in the middle of the button provides a low battery warning. Charging, from a suitable USB wall wart takes 3:15 hours.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/8Zl5QG9.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/8Zl5QG9.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The TC15 is a strong value for an all-inclusive rechargeable light, coming in at $60 on thrunite.com, often less on Amazon, and frequently having discount codes available. People who prefer smooth brightness adjustment instead of fixed modes, or the option to shorten the light and use a smaller battery may prefer the Neutron 2C. Those focused on maximum performance will prefer the TC15. Just keep in mind "turbo" is a burst mode that produces too much heat to be sustained. The TC15 will, however make around 1000 lumens as long as the battery lasts</p>
<h2>Pro/Con</h2>
<ul>
<li>+ High output</li>
<li>+ All-in-one package - arrives ready to use (just remove the plastic from the end of the battery)</li>
<li>+ Convenient user interface with shortcuts and simple on/off</li>
<li>+ High efficiency</li>
<li>+ Low price/good value</li>
<li>- Low CRI</li>
<li>- Centering and lack of thread lubrication on this sample should not have passed QC</li>
<li>- Not waterproof with USB cover open</li>
<li>- Button can be hard to find by feel</li>
</ul>
<h2>Ideal use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Everyday carry</li>
<li>Camping/hiking</li>
<li>Travel</li>
</ul>
<h2>Unsuitable use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Police/self defense, due to the switch being hard to find by feel</li>
<li>Medical, due to average color rendering</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The TC15 is available in cool white and neutral white. This is the cool white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TC15 includes a battery, USB cable, pocket clip, lanyard, holster, spare O-rings, spare USB covers, and spare switch seal. The holster has a sewn belt loop; it is not readily compatible with MOLLE or similar webbing systems.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/0E2NDN1.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/0E2NDN1.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>last-used (of low, medium, or high)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (except max)</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>hold</td>
<td>cycle low/medium/high</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Unscrewing either the tailcap or the head of the light a quarter turn locks out operation and eliminates standby power consumption.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with a Thrunite 3100 mAh 18650 battery. Testing was performed using a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>5</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>26</td>
<td>27</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>250</td>
<td>256</td>
<td>81</td>
<td>78</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1050</td>
<td>1055</td>
<td>166</td>
<td>161</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>2300</td>
<td>2343</td>
<td>246</td>
<td>235</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>After fixing the centering, I measured 247m throw. More on that later.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 years</td>
<td>0.043</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>41.5 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>43 days</td>
<td>2.9</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>68 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>68 hours</td>
<td>44.1</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>256</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/agXZkak.png">graph</a></td>
<td>6.5 hours</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>420</td>
<td>141</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High (Thrunite battery)</td>
<td>1055</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/8Ka3XAY.png">graph</a></td>
<td>90 minutes</td>
<td>28 minutes</td>
<td>85 minutes</td>
<td>85 minutes</td>
<td>2350</td>
<td>110</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>2343</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/DqBucfk.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2 + 83 minutes</td>
<td>80 seconds</td>
<td>2.2 minutes</td>
<td>66 minutes</td>
<td>7600</td>
<td>109</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>I should note that while the time to 80% on high is <em>technically</em> 28 minutes, output stays within 1% of that for 66 minutes.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/QJ32cEp.png">Stepdowns with water cooling</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/zIoIDes.png">Turbo, uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The TC15 is designed for output rather than light quality, however the beam is much better looking than most lights using the new XHP50.2, XHP70.2, XP-L2 and XP-G3 LEDs from Cree. The hotspot is a pure white, with a bit of green in the corona and a bit of purple in the spill. It's fairly typical of a domed XHP35.</p>
<p>Even after adjusting the centering of the emitter, I could see a slight darkening at the center of the beam on white walls at longer distances. It was not noticeable under any other conditions.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/sD1kzL8.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/vxzWO4h.jpg - vs BLF 348 219B</li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/DvqlK44.jpg">Thrunite TC15</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/QWFX3ik.jpg">Armytek Prime XHP35</a> (modified with 5 degree optic and XHP35 HI 4500K 80 CRI)</li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/QWFX3ik.jpg">Convoy F8</a> (FET driver, Samsung LH351D 4000K 90 CRI)</li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/umwWbts.jpg">Sofirn SP31</a> (Luminus SST-20 4000K 90 CRI)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Color rendering</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/wD9VfUo.png">TC15</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/rFk7Ytr.png">Cool white, 90 CRI for comparison</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Despite being the smallest of these, the TC15 has the most output by a large margin and nearly keeps up with the much larger Convoy in terms of throw.</p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The TC15 is well-machined with no visible tool marks and smooth exterior anodization. There is some discoloration inside the battery tube. The threads are trapezoidal in profile and smooth to operate. This is a well-made light in general, however my sample did have a couple issues I'm not used to seeing from Thrunite.</p>
<p>First, the emitter was not properly centered. The head of the light is assembled with permanent threadlocker, implying that users are not expected to need to open it and make adjustments, but I had to do so to properly focus the beam and achieve the rated throw distance.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/1TQtrZZ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/1TQtrZZ.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Second, there was no lubrication on the threads and o-rings. This did not keep them from working properly, however I would be concerned about sustained immersion in water. My brief test suggested water might eventually seep past the o-rings and threads if not lubricated.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Jrqdh5x.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Jrqdh5x.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/89jIpVw.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/89jIpVw.jpg"></a></p>
<p>After adding lubrication. I am confident in the TC15's waterproofing, and conducted runtime testing using water immersion for cooling. The TC15 is not, however waterproof with the rubber USB cover opened while some competing lights are.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The TC15 is comfortable in the hand and pocket, and comparable in size to most lights with the same battery and USB charging. It is, however noticeably longer than the smallest 18650-powered EDC lights. The pocket clip has sufficient ramp for easy insertion and sufficient tension to hold securely. About 15mm of flashlight is exposed from the pocket, an amount I find makes access easy without being overly prominent.</p>
<p>The switch is held in place by a raised, textured bezel that provides some feel with bare hands. It's fairly difficult to feel with gloves. I'd like to see a more distinct recess here, which would make it both easier to find and harder to press by accident. The lanyard hole on the tailcap can be a mild hotspot in certain grips.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/7vuuNHw.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/7vuuNHw.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The TC15 requires one 18650 battery capable of 8A continuous current. Lower modes may be used with batteries not rated for as much current. The included Thrunite 3100 mAh battery has a semi-transparent wrapper, and the underlying cell is clearly a Samsung 30Q, one of the top rated 18650 cells for high capacity at high current. The included battery has a button top and a protection circuit, however neither is required. Low voltage protection using an unprotected battery shuts off the light at about 2.8V. The light under the switch turns red when the battery is low.</p>
<p>The TC15 will immediately reduce output to about 1800 lumens if battery voltage drops too quickly, as would happen with an unprotected battery not suited to high current. This can sometimes also happen using batteries with a shorter overall length that <strong>are</strong> rated for the TC15's current because the uncompressed spring adds resistance. Adding rare earth magnets to the end of the battery prevents this. Low-current protected cells such as Thrunite's 3400 mAh 18650 will trip on turbo.</p>
<p>Charge time with a 1.8A rated wall charger was 3:15. That's fairly fast for a USB-charging 18650-powered flashlight. Firefly and low modes are available when plugged in to USB whether or not a battery is installed. It even works with the head detached. A red indicator light indicates charging. Blue indicates charged. Blinking purple indicates an abnormal situation, like no battery installed.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/UDn1a8W.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/UDn1a8W.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Thrunites are usually pretty easy platfoms for emitter swaps. The TC15 is no exception, and easier than some: I was able to unscrew the bezel with my bare hands - on video, no less. Those familiar with emitter swaps will know what to do from here. I may post a video later for those who aren't.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/mRsxn4h.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/mRsxn4h.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Options for 12V emitters are more limited than the standard 3V white LED. To make matters more dificult, 5mm emitters like the Cree XHP50 and Nichia 144A don't clear the reflector opening at their base. They <em>may</em> be usable with careful installation, but this reflector is designed for a 3.5mm emitter. I can't recommend swapping anything other than another XHP35 into the TC15.</p>
<p>Aside from warmer tint and my usual unsatiable desire for more vibrant colors, I want the TC15, already the farthest-throwing pocketable flashlight in my collection to have more throw. Most of my existing EDC collection leans floody, which is usually good for EDC, but leaves me with an unmet ~~need~~ want.</p>
<p>Fortunately for me, there's an XHP35 that gives me exactly what I want the TC15 to do: the 80 CRI, 4500K Easywhite XHP35 HI that I usually put into XHP35 lights. Here's what that looks like:</p>
<ul>
<li>White wall https://imgur.com/06kPGkH.jpg</li>
<li>Versus BLF 348 https://imgur.com/fXbzhuc.jpg</li>
<li>Outdoors https://imgur.com/dPoz5ni.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h2>Recommendations to the manufacturer</h2>
<ul>
<li>Consider an XHP35 HI version for more throw</li>
<li>Consider using the split battery tube from the Neutron - the latest generation of INR 18350s can handle the load</li>
<li>Consider a body design with a recessed switch next time the TC15 and Neutron bodies are revised</li>
</ul>Review: Thrunite T10 II, a 1xAA/1x14500 EDC2019-01-16T00:00:00+00:002019-01-16T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2019-01-16:/thrunite-t10ii.html<p>The Thrunite T10 II is an AA/14500 EDC light with a magnetic tail and shortcuts from off to low, high, and last-used for $20. It's a compelling value, and most people should own one.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t10-tailcap-magnetic-flashlight/">Thrunite T10 II</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. The T10 II is also available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-T10-II-Flashlight-NW/dp/B07GST3GMT/?tag=zakwilson01-20">on Amazon</a> from Thrunite Direct.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/od0zLZu</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The <s>Thrunite Neutron 1A</s> <s>T10 V2</s> T10 II is a 1xAA/1x14500 flashlight with a slim profile, magnetic tailcap, and e-switch UI having shortcuts to high, low, and last-used from off. The name is a bit confusing as it's quite different from the original T10, which had a mechanical tailswitch; it more closely resembles a 1xAA version of the Neutron 2C. Before this was announced, I wrote that Thrunite should produce <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/8c0ex6/dream_lights_realistic_edition/dxb1tfr/">a very similar design</a>. Adding to the confusion, the first version of this design was called the "T10 v2", which I <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/9yjpf3/review_thrunite_t10_v2_1xaa1x14500_175700_lumens/">reviewed here</a>. Those who read that review may want to skip to the section on differences, as this light has had a number of changes.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/TlIO2Jb.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/TlIO2Jb.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The magnet is a nice touch not included in my concept. It's fairly strong and can securely hold the T10 II to a steel or iron surface. The LED, a Cree XP-G2 is not what I would have selected. While it produces a cleaner beam than the XP-G3, this example of XP-G2 has a significant green tint deviation and unimpressive color rendering. It also doesn't use the ramping UI, opting for four modes instead. They're well-spaced on AA, but the two highest modes are too close to each other on 14500. Using the ramping UI would mitigate this. A final difference is the side switch: it's not the same as the Archer, but more rounded. This makes it very hard to find by feel. Output on AA significantly exceeds the advertised 160 lumens; I measured 210 lumens and shorter runtime. My contact at Thrunite says the advertised specs are from a prototype; I hope to see an update to the website.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/kqp3mdN.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/kqp3mdN.jpg"></a></p>
<p>(18650 battery, Zebralight SC62w, AA battery, Thrunite T10 II, AAA battery, Thrunite Ti5T)</p>
<p>Overall, the T10 II is an excellent value. It compares favorably in size, construction, and performance to competitors like the Klarus Mi7 and Olight S1A, but costs less than those lights - half what the Olight does. That alone is reason to recommend it, but the competition all falls short in terms of size or user interface. The Thrunite's compact size, magnet, and neutral white option would make it a strong competitor even without the price advantage.</p>
<ul>
<li>+ Slim profile</li>
<li>+ Tailcap magnet</li>
<li>+ UI with shortcuts from off to low, high, and last-used</li>
<li>+ Good mode spacing on AA</li>
<li>+ Great value for the money</li>
<li>+ Battery versatility</li>
<li>- Not waterproof without additional lubrication</li>
<li>- Green tint</li>
<li>- Poor color rendering (CRI)</li>
<li>- Poor mode spacing on 14500</li>
<li>- No moonlight on 14500</li>
<li>- Switch is hard to locate by feel</li>
<li>- Audible buzz in low</li>
</ul>
<h2>Ideal use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Everyday carry</li>
<li>Light-duty outdoor, or as a bacukup to a larger light</li>
<li>Long-term storage for emergency use (with lithium primary battery and mechanical lockout)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Unsuitable use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Heavy-duty outdoor - output and throw may be sufficient on 14500, but battery life isn't. This calls for a larger light with more powerful batteries.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Comparison to previous version</h2>
<p>The T10 II is a revised version of the T10 v2. The two lights look nearly identical, but many details have changed:</p>
<ul>
<li>The T10 II has a different emitter: XP-G2 instead of XP-G3. Using an older emitter might sound like a downgrade, but it results in a more visually even beam and increases throw distance.</li>
<li>The T10 II has a textured reflector, which produces a smoother beam with any emitter.</li>
<li>The T10 II has higher drive current in medium and high modes, giving it higher output and shorter battery life.</li>
<li>The magnet in the T10 II is much stronger than the T10 v2.</li>
<li>The threads and o-rings are different. The T10 II is not waterproof.</li>
<li>The pocket clip is shorter and has more ramp, making it easier to put in a pocket.</li>
</ul>
<p>Some issues I noted about the previous model were not significantly improved:</p>
<ul>
<li>The tint is still quite green</li>
<li>The button is still very difficult to locate by feel</li>
<li>The color rendering is still poor</li>
<li>There is still an audible buzz and visible ripple in low</li>
<li>Mode spacing on 14500 is still a little awkward</li>
</ul>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The T10 II is available in cool white and neutral white. This is the neutral white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The T10 II comes in a metal box with a pocket clip, user manual, and spare O-rings.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/YtVUUw5.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/YtVUUw5.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>last-used (of low or medium)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (except max)</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>hold</td>
<td>cycle low/medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<h3>AA NiMH</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 2450 mAh NiMH AA battery. Testing was performed with a Panasonic Eneloop 1900 mAh NiMH battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>9</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>13</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>54</td>
<td>45</td>
<td>40</td>
<td>35</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>160</td>
<td>210</td>
<td>68</td>
<td>76</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17 years</td>
<td>12.5 μA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>14 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8.3 days</td>
<td>9.3 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>7</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 hours</td>
<td>47 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>45</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/RcZp9Yn.png">graph</a></td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>6.2 hours</td>
<td>6.2 hours</td>
<td>6.2 hours</td>
<td>262 mA</td>
<td>126</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>210</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/JpSsrW1.png">graph</a></td>
<td>140 minutes</td>
<td>38 minutes</td>
<td>73 minutes</td>
<td>78 minutes</td>
<td>1800 mA</td>
<td>89</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>AA Alkaline</h3>
<p>The T10 II is designed for higher battery performance than alkalines can deliver. I tested the previous, lower-powered T10 v2 with an alkaline AA, and output decreased from 175 lumens to 124. Here's a runtime graph showing how output decreases rapidly as the battery drains:</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/JUlrZrN.png</li>
</ul>
<p>Lumen-hours decreased from 202 with the Eneloop on high to 130. The higher-powered T10 II will take an even bigger hit. Alkaline batteries may be used in an emergency, especially on lower modes, but should not be considered a primary power source for this, or any other high-powered AA flashlight. Additionally, alkalines will eventually leak corrosive material and damage whatever device they're kept in.</p>
<h3>14500 Li-ion</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 750 mAh 14500 battery. Testing was performed with an 800 mAh Evva protected Sanyo UR14500P.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Advertised throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Estimated throw (FL1 meters)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>22</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>25</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>56</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>440</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>114</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>550</td>
<td>588</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>134</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 years</td>
<td>12.2 μA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>22</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>10.3 hours</td>
<td>77 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.3 hours</td>
<td>340 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>440</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/LZCO8ib.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17 minutes</td>
<td>40 minutes</td>
<td>44 minutes</td>
<td>1340 mA</td>
<td>79</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>588</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/fsid5gv.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>13 minutes</td>
<td>24 minutes</td>
<td>24 minutes</td>
<td>2250 mA</td>
<td>61</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Low has an audible buzz with any battery type, and PWM detectable using a smartphone camera or other electronic rolling shutter. It is not usually visible to my eyes, but can be seen when illuminating fast-moving phenomena like fan blades. No other mode, including moonlight has any detectable PWM or audible sound.</p>
<p>https://imgur.com/TlIO2Jb.jpg - next to the T10 v2, with identical PWM</p>
<p>There is no stepdown or other thermal regulation, and the light can get quite warm on 14500. It probably shouldn't be used for long periods outside the user's bare hands with a 14500 battery. There is no low-voltage protection and output remains near-full when a Li-ion battery is low, so protected batteries are advisable.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The T10 II uses a Cree XP-G2 LED with a textured reflector. The beam transitions smoothly from hotspot to spill without significant visual changes in tint. The color temperature is around 3750K. Unfortunately, there's a strong green tint to my sample.</p>
<p>Color rendering is not very good because some colors are weakly represented in the spectrum, and everything is shifted green. </p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/2Y2oOnr.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/2Y2oOnr.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/7DIZL6O.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/7DIZL6O.jpg"></a></p>
<p>(vs BLF 348 219B)</p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/XY5YKNV.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/XY5YKNV.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/LHyBxpm.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/LHyBxpm.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The T10 II is solidly built without being bulky or heavy. Waterproofing is advertised as IPX8, however a 1 minute immersion in 2cm of water resulted in water ingress through the threads connecting the head to the body. Adding lubrication to the threads and O-ring solved the waterproofing issue, but I'm disappointed it didn't come that way. The bezel is held in place with very strong glue.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/IwkmFw0.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/IwkmFw0.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/OHKRts6.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/OHKRts6.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/3NetWE2.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/3NetWE2.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/qUpJVeg.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/qUpJVeg.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/rm61lq4.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/rm61lq4.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The T10 II is slim relative to many of its competitors. Some premium AA lights have the same size head as the manufacturer's related CR123A model, negating the advantage of a slimmer battery. The pocket clip provides good retention, though it could use a little more ramp. It's reversable, allowing use of the T10 II as a hatlight.</p>
<p>The switch button has a rounded shape and in searly flush with the body. It is very difficult to locate by feel, and essentially impossible while wearing gloves.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The T10 II is primarily intended to be used with NiMH rechargeable AA batteries. It can also be used with alkaline AA batteries with reduced output, lithium disposable AA batteries with longer runtime, and Li-ion 14500 rechargeable batteries with greatly increased output. </p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Thrunites are usually pretty easy platfoms for emitter swaps. This sample was easier to open than the previous model, but did require applying heat to the bezel and using a strap wrench. Like a TN12, it's a deep bezel into which the reflector screws, giving easy access to the MCPCB and emitter once removed. A new addition is a pair of screws holding the MCPCB in place. The LED shelf has a dimple in the middle from machining, which isn't ideal for the thermal path in theory, but doesn't seem to present much of an issue in practice.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/iD0vUqT.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/Gbt14KT.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>The insulation on one of the leads had a nick. It didn't cause any issues, but I ended up shortening these leads anyway.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/q3BwbXl.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>Many LEDs are compatible with the Cree XP package, including the Nichia 219 and 319 series, Samsung LH351 series, and LG 3535 series. The Luxeon V and Osram KW CSLNM1.TG "White Flat" can be made to work with careful reflow soldering. Other 3 volt emitters like the Nichia E21A are likely to work with appropriate MCPCBs. </p>
<p>I tested the Samsung LH351C and Luminus SST-20. Unlike the previous model, which produced unattractive beams with every emitter tested (including the one it came with) except the SST-20, everything looks good in the new textured reflector. Here are the performance numbers:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Emitter</th>
<th>Lumens AA</th>
<th>Throw AA</th>
<th>Lumens 14500</th>
<th>Throw 14500</th>
<th>Color temperature (Kelvin)</th>
<th>CRI (based on published figures)</th>
<th>White wall</th>
<th>Outdoor</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>XP-G2</td>
<td>210</td>
<td>76</td>
<td>588</td>
<td>134</td>
<td>~3750</td>
<td>70</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/2Y2oOnr.jpg">White wall</a></td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/LHyBxpm.jpg">Outdoor</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>LH351C</td>
<td>225</td>
<td>63</td>
<td>460</td>
<td>93</td>
<td>~5100</td>
<td>91</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/Z73LUG4.jpg">White wall</a></td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/7wpj3zY.jpg">Outdoor</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>SST-20</td>
<td>201</td>
<td>79</td>
<td>574</td>
<td>139</td>
<td>~3900</td>
<td>95</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/fD864cI.jpg">White wall</a></td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/W4gC4VT.jpg">Outdoor</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Both the SST-20 and LH351C look great and put out strong numbers. For how I use this light, I prefer the larger hotspot of the LH351C, but either would be a welcome improvement.</p>
<h2>Recommendations to the manufacturer</h2>
<p>The T10 II is a nice light, especially given its low price point. I think it could be nicer still without having to change that price point. Here's what would take it there:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ramping UI. This isn't just a general preference, but for this light in particular, a ramping UI would fix the mode spacing issues on 14500. Thrunite already has a ramping UI, though I would recommend reducing the time to ramp to 2-2.5 seconds.</li>
<li>A different LED, preferably with high CRI. The Samsung LH351C and Luminus SST-20-W40H would be good options.</li>
<li>Use the button from the Archer, which has sharper edges and is easier to find by feel.</li>
<li>Use thicker O-rings or more lubrication.</li>
</ul>
<p>Edit: fixed beamshot links</p>Review: Thrunite Ti4, the almost-perfect penlight2018-12-18T00:00:00+00:002018-12-18T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-12-18:/thrunite-ti4.html<p>The Thrunite Ti4 is a 2xAAA flashlight with a form factor similar to a pen with a design suited to urban and indoor use. Compared to what's typical for the market segment, the Ti5T has a lower low, a higher high, and a choice of cool or neutral tints. At $20, the Ti4T is very competitive. There's a titanium version offered for $30 with a more floody beam pattern. Unfortunately, no high-CRI version is offered, or it would be the perfect penlight.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti4-max-252-lumen-penlight/">Thrunite Ti4</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. The Ti4 is available from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WWPFWMM/">US Amazon</a> and several other regional Amazon sites as well as https://thrunite.com. Use coupon code "20%" for 20% off sitewide through January 7 2019.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/7PBhCVD</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Thrunite Ti4 is a 2xAAA flashlight with a form factor similar to a pen with a design suited to urban and indoor use. Compared to what's typical for the market segment, the Ti5T has a lower low, a higher high, and a choice of cool or neutral tints. At $20, the Ti4T is very competitive. There's a titanium version offered for $30 with a more floody beam pattern. Unfortunately, no high-CRI version is offered, or it would be the perfect penlight.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/uFu1Ekl.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/uFu1Ekl.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Size comparison: 18650 battery, Thrunite TH30, Thrunite Ti5T (heat colored), AAA battery, Thrunite Ti4, BLF 348, Streamlight Microstream</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/nNwiXiF.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/nNwiXiF.jpg"></a></p>
<ul>
<li>+ Nice tint and beam pattern</li>
<li>+ Good sub-lumen low preserves dark adaptation well</li>
<li>+ Low available directly from off</li>
<li>+ Classy appearance</li>
<li>+ Titanium option at a very competitive price</li>
<li>+ High value</li>
<li>+ Can tailstand in a pinch</li>
<li>- Low CRI</li>
<li>- Always starting in low may be confusing or inconvenient for some users</li>
<li>- Voltage-based output rampdown in medium is odd and unhelpful</li>
<li>- Low grip</li>
</ul>
<h2>Ideal use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Everyday carry with business dress</li>
<li>Secondary close-up light for mechanics, pilots, etc...</li>
<li>Secondary to a larger light for low illumination without impacting dark adaptation</li>
<li>Gift for anyone who doesn't have a decent small flashlight</li>
<li>LED swaps</li>
</ul>
<h2>Unsuitable use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Heavy outdoor use</li>
<li>Medical examination or other situations where color acuracy is a priority</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The Ti4T comes in aluminum or titanium, cool or neutral white. The aluminum version uses a Cree XP-G2 emitter for a more focused hotspot, and the titanium version uses a Cree XP-L, for a larger hotspot.</p>
<p>This is the aluminum, neutral white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The Ti4 comes with a user manual and spare o-rings.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/NaCisCH.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/NaCisCH.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The Ti4 has a reverse-clicky tailswitch. That means a full press and release of the switch is required to turn on the light, and subsequent half-presses will cause it to blink off until released. There is no difference, as far as the Ti4's driver is concerned between turning light off and back on quickly with two full presses, and using a half-press.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off (more than 10s)</td>
<td>Full-press</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off (1-10s)</td>
<td>Full-press</td>
<td>Last used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Half-press / power cycle (less than ~1s)</td>
<td>Cycle modes L->H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Full-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>7 half-presses</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Extremely short half-presses don't register as such and leave the Ti4 in the same mode.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with unspecified 850 mAh NiMH rechargeable AAA batteries. Tests were conducted with Panasonic Eneloop 750 mAh NiMH rechargeable AAA batteries.</p>
<p>Mode | Advertised Lumens | Estimated Lumens | Throw (FL1 meters) | Graph | Advertised Runtime| Time to 80% | Time to 50% | Time to 10%
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
Low | 0.3 | - | - | - | 137 hours | - | - | -
Medium | 24 | 40 | 24 | <a href="https://imgur.com/46k9TA3.png">graph</a> | 12 hours | 4 minutes | 31 minutes | 10.8 hours
High | 252 | 252 | 61 | <a href="https://imgur.com/NQtEShF.png">graph</a> | 51 minutes | 29 minutes | 40 minutes | 43 minutes</p>
<p>The rampdown observed in medium appears to be based on voltage. Resetting it does not result in the original output level. High output tested exactly as advertised, to the lumen.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<p>I did conduct an additional test with Ikea Ladda 900 mAh batteries and got 52 minutes to 10% on high.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/I01YsND.png"><img src="https://imgur.com/I01YsND.png"></a></p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The neutral white XP-G2 in the Ti4 produces a coppery tint that looks a bit under 4000K without significant green or red off-colors. It's pleasant on a white wall, with less tint shift than many of the emitters that have been finding their way into new designs. CRI is unspecified and likely in the low 70s. The relatively warm tint does help outdoor scenes look more natural, but colors are noticeably less vivid than with higher CRI lighting.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/7T5IZsF.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/7T5IZsF.jpg"></a></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/qkM3pHp.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/qkM3pHp.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The Ti4 is lightweight, with a comfortable, secure pocket clip and proud switch. The body is smooth with no texturing, which is fine with bare, dry hands. It's not so good with wet or gloved hands. The pocket clip is effective, easy to insert in a pocket, and leaves what I think is just the right amount of tailcap exposed.</p>
<p>The Ti4 can tailstand on a very flat, level, hard, unmoving surface.</p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The Ti4 has a smooth anodized finish with no visible flaws. The conventional threads are smooth and turn easily. My only quality concern is that the finish on the pocket clip appears to be black paint, which likely won't wear as well as the rest of the flashlight.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The Ti4 is designed for use with two NiMH rechargeable AAA batteries. Disposable lithium AAA batteries are also usable, as are alkaline AAAs with reduced performance.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>The Ti4 uses a threaded pill to hold the driver and MCPCB. It's easy to screw out and access components with the only difficulty being the tight spacing compared to 18650 powered lights.. All the 3-volt 3535 emitters should work. The head is identical to the Ti5 with the difference in output being entirely due to input voltage, so I was able to try the emitters I used in my Ti5T with the Ti4 as well.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ukmTxHb.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ukmTxHb.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I've used all of the following in the Ti5/Ti4: Cree XP-G2 and XP-L, Nichia 219C and 219B, and Samsung LH351C. I found the XP-L a bit short on throw, though everything is going to be floody in this small a reflector. The 219B is my favorite for the application, but hard to come by lately. The 219C and LH351C are very similar with the Samsung being a little cheaper, a little brighter and a little less green. Relative to the XP-G2, output increases a bit to 290 lumens, and throw drops a bit to 54 meters.</p>
<p>I selected the LH351C for a permanent home in the Ti4, while my Ti5 gets a 219B sw45k R9080 - an extra-rosy, extra-high-CRI version.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/JwN0MEg.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/JwN0MEg.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/icOKjGj.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/icOKjGj.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Recommendations to the manufacturer</h2>
<ul>
<li>Consider LED manufacturers other than Cree.</li>
<li>Offer a high-CRI option.</li>
<li>Bring back the Ti5. It remains my favorite 1xAAA light.</li>
</ul>Review: Sofirn SP31 v2.0 18650 dual-switch2018-11-28T00:00:00+00:002018-11-28T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-11-28:/sofirn-sp31v2.html<p>The Sofirn SP21 v2.0 is a 1x18650 dual-switch flashlight with a Cree XP-L HI emitter, 222m throw and 901 lumens for under $30. It compares well to competitors that are twice as expensive.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.sofirnlight.com/en/product/finallys/id/63.html">Sofirn SP31 v2.0</a> was provided by Sofirn for review. It's currently available on Amazon in the US as a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKJDH93?tag=zakwilson01-20">bundle with battery and charger</a>. It is usually offered unbundled at a lower price, and may also be available on other regional Amazon sites or Sofirn's Aliexpress store.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/kniVxXX</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Sofirn SP31 v2.0 is a dual-switch 1x18650/2xCR123A light with a Cree XP-L HI emitter. It resembles a Fenix PD32, but it's slimmer and costs half as much. For those familiar with this very popular category, that's probably all I need to say for you to make a decision about this light. For the rest of you, a review follows.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/jmXAuw4.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/jmXAuw4.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The SP31's classic dual-switch configuration uses a tailswitch for power. Half-press is momentary, and a full press until the switch clicks locks it on. A side switch cycles through five modes in a low to high order. Nearly every major flashlight manufacturer produces a light in this configuration with a straight tube-shaped body an inch (25.4mm) in diameter, usually with a price around $50-60.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/jmXAuw4.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/jmXAuw4.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The SP31 v2.0 distinguishes itself with a 24mm bezel and a price under $30. It further distinguishes itself from its low-cost competition, the Wowtac A1S by having an efficient constant-current buck driver instead of a linear driver with PWM. My only serious complaints are that it has a needless timed stepdown in addition to its sensor-based thermal regulation, and that it only comes in cool white as of this writing.</p>
<ul>
<li>+ Slim profile</li>
<li>+ Long throw for the size</li>
<li>+ Efficient electronics for the price</li>
<li>+ Battery indicator light is uncommon at this price point</li>
<li>- Cool white only</li>
<li>- Low CRI</li>
<li>- Unnecessary timed stepdown</li>
</ul>
<h2>Good use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>General household/car flashlight</li>
<li>Throwy EDC light</li>
<li>Spare light for others to use</li>
<li>Platform for emitter swaps</li>
</ul>
<h2>Bad use cases</h2>
<ul>
<li>Situations where preserving dark adaptation matters</li>
<li>Situations where color is important</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The SP31 v2.0 only comes one way, but Sofirn offers a bundle with a battery and charger. This is the bundle.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The SP31 v2.0 includes a lanyard, pocket clip, and spare O-rings. The bundle version also includes a Sofirn branded 3000 mAh 18650 battery, a 1A USB charger resembling the Xtar MC1 Plus, and a USB cable.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/RvFAUcE.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/RvFAUcE.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Half-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Last-used (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Full-press tailswitch</td>
<td>Last-used (constant)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Press tailswitch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Press sideswitch</td>
<td>Next mode (L -> H)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold sideswitch</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Press sideswitch</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Loosening the head or tail a quarter turn mechanically locks out activation.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 3500 mAh 18650 battery. Tested performance is with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Eco</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>291 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>273 hours</td>
<td>11 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>45</td>
<td>49</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>26.8 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>32 hours</td>
<td>93 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>160</td>
<td>135</td>
<td>86</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9.75 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>11 hours</td>
<td>270 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>500</td>
<td>430</td>
<td>153</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/efaHQWq.png">graph</a></td>
<td>221 minutes</td>
<td>143 minutes</td>
<td>146 minutes</td>
<td>170 minutes</td>
<td>1.03 A</td>
<td>101</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1200</td>
<td>901</td>
<td>222</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/bd7cUvK.png">graph</a></td>
<td>157 minutes</td>
<td>3 minutes</td>
<td>3 minutes</td>
<td>140 minutes</td>
<td>2.7 A</td>
<td>85</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Advertised throw is 225m on turbo. Sofirn lists throw for every other mode as well on its <a href="http://www.sofirnlight.com/en/product/finallys/id/63.html">official site</a> and my measurement is within 3 meters every time. It's a bit odd that the throw matches so closely but the output does not. I wonder if Sofirn re-used output numbers from a previous version of this light that used the more efficient, less throwy XP-L2 LED.</p>
<p>There is no low-voltage shutoff, though the indicator switch gives a warning, followed by a series of stepdowns to low.</p>
<p>Turbo has an abrupt timed stepdown to high after 3 minutes. There is <em>also</em> sensor-based thermal regulation which triggers a much more gentle rampdown to about 70%. I've seen similar behavior before on the Thrunite TH30, but that light makes nearly four times the output and can't possibly be used for an extended period of time without overheating unless immersed in cold water. The SP31 could be used at full output without overheating in a light breeze.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/yt3ZBuD.png">Resetting the timed stepdown</a> - numbers over 100% are probably user error on my part, disturbing the position of the light relative to the sensor. This shows the thermal sensor at work starting from the second reset.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The SP31 v2.0 is unapologetically cool white. It's probably a bit over 6000K, but it's a very pure cool white without off-tints, large shifts in tint across the beam or artifacts. The outer spill has a bit of purple, but it's not really noticeable outdoors. People who don't mind cool white will probably like it, but it does wash out colors.</p>
<p>Output is fully current-regulated with no PWM in any mode.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/hpRZNWt.jng</li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/7ASQ4Fq.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/0I0tCI5.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The SP31 v2.0 is solidly built. The aluminum is machined precisely, and there are no visible toolmarks. The springs are stiff, the threads are smooth and square-cut. The finish is a bit prone to scratching, but no worse than many lights with considerably higher price points.</p>
<p>Sofirn advertised IPX8 water resistance to 2 meters for 30 minutes. A brief immersion did not result in any signs of water ingress.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/FsdwNW0.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/FsdwNW0.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The SP31 v2.0 has typical ergonomics for an 18650 dual-switch light. The side switch is easy enough to find by feel with bare hands, but would present an issue with gloves. The tailswitch is somewhat proud - enough to prevent tailstanding. Sofirn has informed me that this has been changed on new-production models and future samples will tailstand. The body is knurled adequately for grip, but not aggressively.</p>
<p>In the pocket, the SP31 v2.0 is thinner than most 18650 lights. It's not a huge difference since it still needs to accomodate an 18mm battery, but it's enough to notice. The clip is a design common to many Chinese manufacturers. It would go well with a shorter tailcap, but allows 32mm of flashlight to stick out in this case.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ef3TSDv.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ef3TSDv.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>Any quality 18650 battery will work in the SP31 v2.0. Two CR123As are also supported. The battery included with the bundle is a Sofirn branded protected button-top with an advertised capacity of 3000 mAh. I measured 3015 mAh. The Sofirn battery has warnings written on it in English, Russian, and Ukranian.</p>
<p>The charger from the bundle is a single-slot USB charger resembling an Xtar MC1 Plus. It charges at 1A given an adequate USB source and terminates correctly.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Emitter swaps are easy in the SP31 v2.0. The bezel attaches at the base of the reflector, granting easy access to the emitter. There's a small amount of threadlocker on the bezel, but I found it easy to break free.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/8riIECw.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/8riIECw.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/W8ehgl3.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/W8ehgl3.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I was hoping to delay the review until my shipment of Luminus SST-20s arrived, as I suspect those would preserve the long throw of this light while adding CRI and nicer tint. They haven't, so I tried the Samsung LH351C. Throw drops to 185m and output to 830lm. The beam is a fairly neutral 5000K with no artifacts and relatively even tint. The outer spill does have a little purple from the AR lens, but it's not bad.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ydcGjZ4.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ydcGjZ4.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/m0tNKhh.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/m0tNKhh.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/6Pfm7PR.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/6Pfm7PR.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/XepJVAw.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/XepJVAw.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Most 3V high-power emitters should work well in the SP31 v2.0, from popular options like the Nichia 219C and Samsung LH351 series to exotics like the ultra-throwy Osram White Flat. Its buck driver will have good efficiency and proper regulation regardless of forward voltage.</p>
<h2>Recommendations to the manufacturer</h2>
<ul>
<li>Remove the timed stepdown. With a thermal sensor, the stepdown just makes this light worse.</li>
<li>Offer neutral white. When only offering one tint, 5000K is an ideal choice, as nobody hates it even when it's not their favorite.</li>
<li>Consider LED manufacturers other than Cree. Samsung's high-CRI LH351 series is particularly worthy of attention from manufacturers.</li>
</ul>Review: Thrunite T10 v22018-11-19T00:00:00+00:002018-11-19T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-11-19:/thrunite-t10v2.html<p>The Thrunite T10 v2 is an e-switch AA/14500 EDC light with a tailcap magnet. It was only available briefly before being replaced with an upgraded version, the T10 II.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-t10-v2-tailcap-magnetic-flashlight/">Thrunite T10 v2</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. All Thrunite products are currently on sale at <a href="https://thrunite.com">Thrunite.com</a> with coupon code "20%", which does what you think it does. The sale runs until November 25, though the "20%" coupon may apply to some products outside that interval.</p>
<p>The T10 v2 has been replaced by the <a href="/thrunite-t10ii">Thrunite T10 II</a>, an updated version of the same design with several improvements.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/qqh2g4r</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The ~~Thrunite Neutron 1A~~ T10 V2 is a 1xAA/1x14500 flashlight with a slim profile, magnetic tailcap, and e-switch UI having shortcuts to high, low, and last-used from off. The name is a bit confusing as it's quite different from the original T10, which had a mechanical tailswitch; it more closely resembles a 1xAA version of the Neutron 2C. Before this was announced, I wrote that Thrunite should produce <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/8c0ex6/dream_lights_realistic_edition/dxb1tfr/">a very similar design</a>. I'm glad they did.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/8xQAAnl.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/8xQAAnl.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The magnet is a nice touch not included in my concept. Unfortunately, they didn't chose the emitter I would have, and the XP-G3 it uses results in an unattractive beam with a significant yellow corona. It also doesn't use the ramping UI, opting for four modes instead. They're well-spaced on AA, but the two highest modes are too close to each other on 14500. Using the ramping UI would mitigate this. A final difference is the side switch: it's not the same as the Archer, but more rounded. This makes it very hard to find by feel. Output on 14500 significantly exceeds the claimed 550 lumens; I got over 750. The numbers for AA were essentially as advertised.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/MqXR7kQ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/MqXR7kQ.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Overall, the T10 V2 is an excellent value. It compares favorably in size, construction, and performance to competitors like the Klarus Mi7 and Olight S1A, but costs less than those lights - half what the Olight does. That alone is reason to recommend it. Its compact size, magnet, and neutral white option would make it a strong competitor even without the price advantage.</p>
<ul>
<li>+ Slim profile</li>
<li>+ Tailcap magnet</li>
<li>+ UI with shortcuts from off to low, high, and last-used</li>
<li>+ Good mode spacing on AA</li>
<li>+ Great value for the money</li>
<li>+ Battery versatility</li>
<li>- Tint rainbow across the beam with lots of green</li>
<li>- Low CRI</li>
<li>- Poor mode spacing on 14500</li>
<li>- No moonlight on 14500</li>
<li>- Switch is hard to locate by feel</li>
<li>- Audible buzz in low</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should buy the T10 V2</h2>
<ul>
<li>Most people</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should not buy T10 V2</h2>
<ul>
<li>Tint snobs</li>
<li>CRI babies</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 is available in cool white and neutral white, as soon as the second batch arrives. This is the cool white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 comes in a metal box with a pocket clip, user manual, and spare O-rings.</p>
<p>The pocket clip came bent at an unusual angle, but it was easy enough to straighten with pliers. The clip can be reversed for use as a hatlight.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/RG8KWUQ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/RG8KWUQ.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/f98xmmb.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/f98xmmb.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>last-used (of low or medium)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (except max)</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>long press</td>
<td>min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>short press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>hold</td>
<td>cycle low/medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>double click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<h3>AA NiMH</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 2450 mAh NiMH AA battery. Testing was performed with a Panasonic Eneloop 1900 mAh NiMH battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>20 years</td>
<td>11 μA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>FIXME</td>
<td>49 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>13 days</td>
<td>6 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>9</td>
<td>15</td>
<td>FIXME</td>
<td>50 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>30 hours</td>
<td>64 mA</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>55</td>
<td>35</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/GYoBJmc.png">graph</a></td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>6 hours</td>
<td>349 mA</td>
<td>147</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>180</td>
<td>175</td>
<td>61</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/AWg2R3f.png">graph</a></td>
<td>95 minutes</td>
<td>56 minutes</td>
<td>83 minutes</td>
<td>90 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>88</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>AA Alkaline</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 2450 mAh NIMH AA battery. Testing was performed with a generic alkaline AA battery.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>180</td>
<td>124</td>
<td>-</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/JUlrZrN.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>15 minutes</td>
<td>57 minutes</td>
<td>154 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The performance on an alkaline battery is a good illustration of how this battery type behaves. Output is reduced, and drops sharply from its initial level, but a long time is required to hit the 10% cutoff used by the FL1 standard. I let the light run after terminating the graph, and it took several more hours to hit 1% of the initial output. This is how camping store headlamp brands advertise runtime numbers that sound like they break the laws of physics.</p>
<p>It's not possible to calculate efficiency since I don't know the capacity of an alkaline under these conditions, but cumulative output was 130 lumen-hours, versus 202 for the Eneloop on high.</p>
<h3>14500 Li-ion</h3>
<p>Advertised performance is with an unspecified 750 mAh 14500 battery. Testing was performed with an 800 mAh Evva protected Sanyo UR14500P.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
<th>Efficiency (lm/W)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 years</td>
<td>12 μA</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>24</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>65 mA</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>130</td>
<td>55</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>142 minutes</td>
<td>142 minutes</td>
<td>142 minutes</td>
<td>306mA</td>
<td>102</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>525</td>
<td>110</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/FajGi8w.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>16 minutes</td>
<td>35 minutes</td>
<td>38 minutes</td>
<td>1230mA</td>
<td>84</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>550</td>
<td>700</td>
<td>148</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/5XfilST.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>17minutes</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>1700mA</td>
<td>76</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is a hidden, and likely unintentional fifth mode using the 14500 battery. Holding the switch from firefly switches to a mode that's around 55 lumens instead of the 130 low has when accessed any other way.</p>
<p>Low has an audible buzz with any battery type, and PWM detectable using a smartphone camera or other electronic rolling shutter. It is not usually visible to my eyes, but can be seen when illuminating fast-moving phenomena like fan blades. No other mode, including moonlight has any detectable PWM or audible sound.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/6kSoSfX.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/rjnGXmH.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>There is no stepdown or other thermal regulation, and the light can get quite warm on 14500. It probably shouldn't be used for long periods outside the user's bare hands with a 14500 battery. There is no low-voltage protection and output remains near-full when a Li-ion battery is low, so protected batteries are advisable.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 uses a Cree XP-G3 LED with a smooth reflector. People familiar with the current crop of Cree LEDs probably know what to expect: green tint and lots of shift across the beam.</p>
<p>There are no surprises here. Portions of the hotspot are a fairly pure white, but then there are yellow rings, followed by a very green corona and a more purple spill. There's enough tint shift and green to be noticeable using the T10 V2 outdoors. I usually prefer textured reflectors; the old T10 had one.</p>
<p>I expect this trend to continue across the entire flashlight industry as the latest-generation Cree emitters find their way into more flashlights. It's unfortunate there are no other manufacturers producing LEDs that could possibly be used in flashlights.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/YQ3ZtU4.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/GOnw7Sy.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/ZMzPPfD.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 is solidly built without being bulky or heavy. Waterproofing is advertised as IPX8, and it showed no signs of water ingress when submerged in a bowl of water. The bezel is held in place with very strong glue.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/XOnxtqs.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/XOnxtqs.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 is slim relative to many of its competitors. Some premium AA lights have the same size head as the manufacturer's related CR123A model, negating the advantage of a slimmer battery. The pocket clip provides good retention, though it could use a little more ramp. It's reversable, allowing use of the T10 V2 as a hatlight.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 is primarily intended to be used with NiMH rechargeable AA batteries. It can also be used with alkaline AA batteries with reduced output, lithium disposable AA batteries with longer runtime, and Li-ion 14500 rechargeable batteries with greatly increased output. </p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Thrunites are usually pretty easy platfoms for emitter swaps. Not this sample. It uses a deep bezel into which the reflector screws and holds the lens in place, much like the TN12. Unfortunately, the threadlocker was much more durable than the TN12. It took boiling water, a strap wrench, and an adjustable wrench on the anti-roll flats to get the bezel loose. I couldn't avoid some marring of the anodization.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/aq8yils.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/aq8yils.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/sLAJMTB.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/sLAJMTB.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Once open, it's easy. The 14mm copper MCPCB is very exposed and there's nothing nonstandard to deal with. That leaves the question of what emitter to use. First, I selected something Thrunite could reasonably put into production: the Samsung LH351C (5000K, 90 CRI, part number SPHWHTL3D50GE4RTMF). It's very inexpensive - usually even less than the XP-G3, and should have comparable performance characteristics. It's also closely comparable to the Nichia 219C.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/TpssozY.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/TpssozY.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Performance is, indeed similar. There's little output or throw distance lost relative to the original XP-G3, and a huge gain to color quality. Unfortunately, the beam still isn't great. There's a significant dark ring between the hotspot and the corona, and a bit of a green spot right in the middle of the hotspot. This is still an improvement over the XP-G3, but I like this flashlight enough to keep trying to find an emitter that does it justice. I had hoped my order of SST-20s would arrive in time, but I may just use a 219B R9080. My consideration of that rare emitter should be taken as an endorsement of this flashlight.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/mo41BjH.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/mo41BjH.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/64vw7ng.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/64vw7ng.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Output and throw for the LH351C are 179lm/59m on AA and 614lm/110m on 14500. Forward voltage is a little higher for the LH351C than the XP-G3, which means it probably gets more power when the driver is boosting voltage from an AA, but less when running on the higher-voltage 14500.</p>
<h2>Recommendations to the manufacturer</h2>
<p>The T10 V2 is a nice light, especially given its low price point. I think it could be nicer still without having to change that price point. Here's what would take it there:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ramping UI. This isn't just a general preference, but for this light in particular, a ramping UI would fix the mode spacing issues on 14500. Thrunite already has a ramping UI, though I would recommend reducing the time to ramp to under 2 seconds.</li>
<li>A different LED, preferably with high CRI. The Nichia 219C and Luminus SST-20-W40H would be good options.</li>
<li>A textured reflector - this generally looks better in small lights.</li>
</ul>Review: Astrolux S43, a powerful EDC quad with USB2018-11-13T00:00:00+00:002018-11-13T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-11-13:/astrolux-s43.html<p>The Astrolux S43 is a 1x18350/1x18650 EDC flashlight with optional high CRI and USB charging. For those who wish the Emisar D4 had built-in charging, this may be the light for you.</p><p>This <a href="https://goo.gl/1HP2Db">Astrolux S43</a> was provided by Banggood for review. Use coupon code 9f1297 to get the S43 for $29.</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Astrolux S43 is a compact FET quad with a choice of Nichia 219C or Cree XP-G3 emitters, MicroUSB charging, battery tubes for both 18650 and 18350, and an e-switch running NarsilM 1.3. It strongly resembles an Emisar D4 with a MicroUSB port and a lanyard hole. For those not active in the flashlight modding community, I'll unpack that a bit. A FET driver doesn't regulate power from the battery to the LED(s), making it relatively inexpensive to construct a light with very high output, especially when multiple emitters are used - in this case four. It can still produce lower modes using PWM - switching on and off thousands of times per second to produce a lower average power over time. FET drivers aren't especially efficient, the battery used is a significant limiting factor in maximum output, and output isn't stable over time even at lower levels, but practicality is not the point of a hot-rod. NarsilM is an open source firmware with both ramping and fixed-mode operation with a large number of configuration options. It's used in the BLF Q8 and BLF GT as well. A particularly nice feature is toggling between max output and the previously-selected ramp level with a double-click.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/tkA7Z4Y.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/tkA7Z4Y.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The S43 is, indeed a hot-rod. It exceeds its advertised output by around 100%. That, however has as much to do with poor documentation as great performance. Much of the documentation appears to be taken from the S42, a light that's superficially similar, but lacks the performance and UI niceties of the S43. The S42 was poorly received by reviewers, and the S43 does address most of the issues, but the build quality still isn't great, and despite claims of IPX6, the S43 isn't waterproof at all. Nichia 219Cs in 5000K are nice to see, and do produce the vivid color rendering we've come to expect, but these are the greenest 219Cs I've ever seen. Outdoors, it's easy to get used to, but around white or grey surfaces, I found the tint distracting enough to add a minus-green filter behind the lens.</p>
<p>Despite the build issues and risk of getting a bad tint, the S43 is a compelling option for a specific user: anyone who likes the idea of the Emisar D4, but wants USB charging, a more shrouded button, a tripod mount, or a lanyard hole. With the coupon code, it has a lower price than the D4, and it includes two battery tubes and USB charging. It's not for casual users as, like the D4, it can melt and ignite objects. It's not for serious users either as it's a hot-rod with some potential quality issues that make its reliability a bit questionable. Instead, the S43 is for enthusiasts who giggle when they turn night into day.</p>
<ul>
<li>+ Impressive output, briefly</li>
<li>+ High CRI</li>
<li>+ Very responsive ramping UI</li>
<li>+ Open source firmware</li>
<li>+ Great sub-lumen mode</li>
<li>+ Precise battery check (to 0.1V)</li>
<li>- Not waterproof</li>
<li>- Green tint on my sample / tint lottery</li>
<li>- Indicator lights unreliable (possibly due to water ingress)</li>
<li>- General build quality unimpressive</li>
<li>- Pocket clip makes insertion into pocket difficult</li>
<li>- When the tripod mount is installed, tailstanding is not very stable</li>
<li>- Poor/inaccurate official documentation (but great community documentation for the firmware)</li>
<li>- Charging is slow (> 8H to fully charge an 18650)</li>
<li>- Sensor-based thermal regulation works poorly</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should buy the S43</h2>
<ul>
<li>Enthusiasts who want an impressive toy for everyday carry or casual use</li>
<li>CRI babies</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should not buy the S43</h2>
<ul>
<li>Overly casual users who won't use sufficient care with a light that can start fires</li>
<li>Serious users who need reliable illumination for safety-critical situations</li>
<li>Tint snobs</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The S43 offers a choice of emitters: Nichia 219C (5000K) or Cree XP-G3 (~6500K). This is the Nichia 219C version.</p>
<p>The S43S has been announced. While previous Astrolux models have used such a designation to indicate stainless steel bodies, the S43S appears to be the same aluminum body, but with a copper head. I expect the same emitter options.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The S43 comes with an 18650 tube, an 18350 tube, manual spare O-rings, a pocket clip, a lanyard, a tripod mount adapter, and a ~~safety hammer~~ skullcracker.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/mALGOrE.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/mALGOrE.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The tailcap is threaded for an adapter sleeve that fits a common 1/4" tripod mount. The included skullcracker also threads into the adapter sleeve, so I'm not sure why the tailcap isn't just threaded for that size. When installed, the sleeve isn't flush and makes tailstanding unstable.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/B79xs03.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/B79xs03.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I think a magnet might have been a better choice for the tailcap, or just a shorter tailcap with no accessories. Nobody should use the skullcracker, but the tripod mount might be useful for some people.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Z7DO4cn.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Z7DO4cn.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/0KGdCOz.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/0KGdCOz.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The included paper manual has some inaccurate information. The current product page has a <a href="http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20180928023133S43usermanualdraft05withadvancedSettings201809281109231.pdf">different manual</a> readable online, as well as a <a href="http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20180928023247NarsilMCSS43draft05withadvancedsettings.pdf">detailed manual for the firmware</a>.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The S43 uses the open source <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54635">NarsilM firmware</a> by Tom E. For the first time in a review, I will not be including all the functionality in table form. The <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1IxYZuk4DjccTF1TTdDSEltalE/view">author's manual</a> is a good reference and ToyKeeper maintains an <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1IxYZuk4DjccTF1TTdDSEltalE/view">updated repository</a>. I will, however provide tables for two configurations.</p>
<h3>Ramping, with blinky modes disabled</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short press</td>
<td>Last ramp level</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold > 0.3s</td>
<td>Lowest (configurable), followed by ramp L -> H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off/On</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Battery check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off/On</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off/On</td>
<td>Quint-click</td>
<td>"Tactical" - button is max momentary until battery removed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off/On</td>
<td>Hold > 8s</td>
<td>Configuration menu (see manual)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Ramp L -> H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On, within 1.2s of ramping, or max</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Ramp H -> L</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Battery check</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Temperature check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Temperature check</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Firmware version</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firmware version</td>
<td>Hold > 1.2s</td>
<td>Factory reset</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There are a lot of features here, but in practice, it's not a complicated UI. It works just like e-switch lights from Olight, Thrunite, and Acebeam, with ramping instead of fixed modes, and switching direction when adjusting output twice in a row.</p>
<h3>Modes, with blinky modes and memory disabled, L->H mode order</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short press</td>
<td>Lowest</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold > 0.3s</td>
<td>Highest</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click, then hold</td>
<td>Battery check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click, then hold</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On < 1.2s since last action</td>
<td>Short press</td>
<td>Next (L -> H)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On > 1.2s since last action</td>
<td>Short press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Previous (H -> L)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Double-click, then hold</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Double-click, then hold</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Quad-click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Battery check</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Temperature check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Temperature check</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Firmware version</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firmware version</td>
<td>Hold > 1.2s</td>
<td>Factory reset</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Configuration options</h3>
<p>See the <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1IxYZuk4DjccTF1TTdDSEltalE/view">NarsilM manual</a> for details on configuration. Here's a list of what can be configured:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ramping or mode-set UI</li>
<li>Moonlight level</li>
<li>Thermal regulation type (sensor, timed, none) <strong>Do NOT choose none, nor a timer longer than 1 minute</strong></li>
<li>Blinky modes (none, strobe, multiple)</li>
<li>Mode group (1-7 modes plus moonlight, with some different spacing options for 3 and 4 modes)</li>
<li>Enable/disable moonlight</li>
<li>Mode order</li>
<li>Mode memory</li>
<li>Indicator light (always on, battery indicator, on when main LED on)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Testing multiple levels with a ramping UI is tricky, so I used the BLF A6 7-mode group. Ramp-max seems to be identical to mode 6 from this group, however ramp-max is subject to the timed stepdown if enabled, and mode 6 is not. All measurements were taken with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery, or an Aspire 1300 mAh 18350 battery. Actual capacity of the Aspire battery is between 1100 and 1200 mAh. Battery type has a strong impact on output and runtime.</p>
<p>Due to issues with the sensor-based thermal regulation, a 60 second timed stepdown was used for most runtime testing.</p>
<h3>18650 battery</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>FL1 throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>34 years</td>
<td>10 µA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>25 days</td>
<td>5 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 days</td>
<td>16 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>46</td>
<td>21m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>22 hours</td>
<td>134 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>198</td>
<td>45m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8 hours</td>
<td>387 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>735</td>
<td>92m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4 hours</td>
<td>740 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1513</td>
<td>140m</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/MsGfNPw.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>16 minutes</td>
<td>57 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>7</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td>2590</td>
<td>175m</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/jzjYWPL.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>53 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>18350 battery</h3>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>FL1 throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>13 years</td>
<td>10 µA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>10 days</td>
<td>5 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3 days</td>
<td>16 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>46</td>
<td>21m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>134 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>198</td>
<td>45m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3 hours</td>
<td>387 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>735</td>
<td>92m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.6 hours</td>
<td>740 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1513</td>
<td>140m</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/6k9cyvU.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 minutes</td>
<td>12 minutes</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>7</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td>2407</td>
<td>169m</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/pF1osjz.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/q7DfkgD.png">Thermal sensor behavior with fan cooling</a></p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The S43 appears well-constructed at a glance, with smooth anodization and no visible tool marks. With some use, however, it has become apparent that there are issues. It's advertised as IPX6, indicating it can withstand powerful water jets for 3 minutes. Wanting to cool it between tests, I subjected it to a not-very-powerful water jet: my bathroom sink faucet, for maybe 10 seconds. There was water ingress, which resulted in occasional spurious activation of the light, and a constantly-flickering side indicator light until I was able to dry it fully.</p>
<p>After installing a minus-green filter between the optic and the lens, the lens spontaniously broke while the light was sitting on a desk, cool and inactive. I replaced it with a thicker lens from another flashlight.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/tbKEOej.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/tbKEOej.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The product page shows single springs on both ends, but my sample is different: a brass button on the head, and dual springs at the tail. This arrangement is definitely better for extremely high current.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/RBlwYBd.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/RBlwYBd.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The S43 has a smooth body tube that provides poor traction, but with the pocket clip installed, it's not especially easy to drop. The presense of ridges around the button makes it easy to find, and an extra prominent ridge in front of the button helps to shroud it from accidental activation. I have not had an accidental activation in my pocket so far carrying it without the use of physical or electronic lockout.</p>
<p>In the pocket, there are some issues. First, the head is a bit fat relative to straight-body tube lights. That's unavoidable given the size of optic it's designed around, but it may be too much bulk for many people. Second ,the pocket clip doesn't have sufficient ramp on the tab below its retaining ring, causing it to get stuck easily while inserting into a pocket. Finally, the crenelations on the bezel can catch on clothing; the S41 had a smooth bezel.</p>
<p>For those who want more texturing, tubes for the S41 and BLF A6 may be purchased separately and do work with the S43.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/UGG3Xwi.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/UGG3Xwi.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/HXTN7iF.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/HXTN7iF.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>The S43 can use an 18350 or 18650 battery, depending on the installed body tube. In either case, I'm estimating from the output that load on the battery can be as high as 20A. Batteries with moderately lower ratings, including all 18350s that I know of, will have significant voltage sag, reducing the current. Running batteries that hard is likely to reduce their service life. Batteries with much lower current ratings are unsafe to use in the S43.</p>
<p>Charging a 1300 mAh 18350 after a runtime test took about 2 hours. This was likely not a fully depleted battery, but voltage sag from testing in a higher mode brought it below 3V. Charging a fully depleted 18650 took over 8 hours.</p>
<p>During charging, a red light illuminates under the switch, then goes out when charged. At least, it did the first few times I charged it. The red light has since stopped working.</p>
<p>The S43 can operate on USB power without a battery and remains fully functional, however trying to use more power than the power supply and cable can provide will result in the light stepping down as if it has a low battery.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/qqvig6O.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/qqvig6O.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>It's easy to remove the bezel, giving access to the optic and emitters. I believe Carclo 106xx optics will fit if two of their legs are removed, allowing some options when it comes to beam pattern. Colored gel filters (as used in stage lighting) may be cut to size and installed between the optic and the glass lens. I'm currently using a Lee 801 high-temperature full minus-green filter, which makes the tint a very nice neutral white at a cost of about 10-15% output.</p>
<p>There are many options for 3 volt, 3535 LEDs that can be reflowed onto the stock MCPCB or installed with a third-party quad MCPCB. Trendy options as of this writing are the Samsung LH351D for higher output, less heat, and more flood, or the Luminus SST-20-W for more throw. Both are available in 90+ CRI. With the minus-green filter, I'm satisfied with the stock 219Cs and have no immediate plans to change the emitters.</p>
<p>The driver and charging board appear to be glued in place. I imagine some pressure through the central hole in the MCPCB and underlying shelf would get them out, but I'm concerned about damage since I'm not sure how robust their construction is.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/dK4CMEB.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/dK4CMEB.jpg"></a></p>Review: Wowtac A4, a low-priced, high-output 764m thrower2018-09-25T00:00:00+00:002018-09-25T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-09-25:/wowtac-a4.html<p>The Wowtac A4 is a 2x18650 flashlight intended for long-distance illumination - a thrower. It's the lowest price thrower I know of using the XHP35 HI, giving it high output for its class, and full output on low batteries. I just wish it came in a warmer tint.</p><p>This <a href="http://wowtac.com/wowtac-a4-2000-lumen-searchlight-battery-excluded/">Wowtac A4</a> was provided by Wowtac for review. The A4 is also available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Thrower-Flashlight-Hunting-Fishing-Included/dp/B07FMQMLLG/?tag=zakwilson01-20">on Amazon</a>, often at a lower price.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/Mm4KyNE</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Wowtac A4 is a 2x18650 flashlight intended for long-distance illumination - a thrower. It's relatively compact for its class and appears to be very closely related to the Thrunite Catapult V6, using the same optics and user interface, but with a different battery tube and without USB charging. It has the most advertised throw of any major-brand flashlight under $60, and my sample did hit its advertised numbers.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/VaEl4em.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/VaEl4em.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The A4 is very compact for its throw distance and battery configuration due to a relatively short reflector and a side-switch UI that doesn't add a bulky tailswitch assembly to the body tube. It has a well-spaced selection of five modes, plus a hidden strobe. The hotspot is a bit wider, and the spill brighter than most hardcore dedicated throwers, making the A4 versatile enough for general use in a pinch. It has full output on low batteries, thanks to a boost driver. The only real issues are compatability with unprotected batteries, no ability to lock out activation, and the cool white tint. Cool white is a valid, if unpopular aesthetic preference in most cases, but it significantly increases backscatter with a thrower, meaning the user may see more of the beam than the target.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/xg9olqR.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/xg9olqR.jpg"></a></p>
<p>As with most Wowtac offerings, it's the value for money that's most significant about the A4. At this price point, only the Emisar D1S and Lumintop GT Mini come close in throw, and only with a battery that's fresh off the charger. Were it offered with a neutral white emitter, I'd have no hesitation in recommending the A4. In cool white, the A4 is worth considering, and should win for users who care more about full output regardless of battery status than backscatter.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/D6s5bxS.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/D6s5bxS.jpg"></a></p>
<ul>
<li>+ Great throw for this price point</li>
<li>+ Easy UI with single-click on/off and shortcuts from off to low, high, and last-used</li>
<li>+ Compact size for the performance</li>
<li>+ Full output on low batteries, uncommon at this price</li>
<li>- Cool white only as of this writing</li>
<li>- No lockout</li>
<li>- Needs a spacer for unprotected batteries</li>
<li>- Timed stepdowns</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should buy the A4</h2>
<p>People looking for a lot of throw for the price should give the A4 a look. It's in the same price range as the Emisar D1S and Lumintop GT Mini, but outperforms those lights. The A4 in high (not turbo) roughly matches the turn-on throw of an Astrolux C8, but maintains flat output at that level for 105 minutes.</p>
<h2>Who should not buy the A4</h2>
<p>People who can't stand the cool white tint and backscatter; people who need a pocketable light. The A4 is a bit big even for a jacket pocket, but doesn't take up much space in a backpack and wouldn't be bad in a holster.</p>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The A4 only comes one way at this time. Wowtac has suggested there may be a neutral white version in the future.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The A4 includes a user manual and spare o-rings.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/kQ4RmT8.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/kQ4RmT8.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The A4 has the standard Thrunite/Wowtac e-switch UI:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Firefly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (exc turbo)</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through the three middle modes L->H</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Mode cycling starts from low if it's been longer than about 5 seconds since the light was turned on, or the last mode change.</p>
<p>There is no lockout, either mechanical or electronic. I asked Wowtac about this, and they said that the lack of mechanical lockout was to improve battery compatibility. More on that later. They acknowledged the importance of lockout and suggested this may change in a future release.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests performed with Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 batteries unless otherwise noted. Advertised performance is with two Wowtac 3400 mAh 18650s, however listed runtimes are <em>identical</em> to the Thrunite Catapult V6, which uses a single 26650. It is implausible that the Catapult's runtimes would be as long as the A4's given that it has less energy capacity and has to boost voltage more.</p>
<p>Outputs slightly exceed advertised in all modes.</p>
<p>The A4 has both thermal and timed stepdowns. The timed stepdown is a gradual ramp starting a bit after 4 minutes and ending around 5 minutes. Stable output is roughly 50% of max - i.e. the high mode.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 years</td>
<td>47 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Reading</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>41 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>28 days</td>
<td>4.4mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>22</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>97</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>62 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>88 hours</td>
<td>34mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>180</td>
<td>236</td>
<td>252</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/a2jDvTr.png">graph</a></td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>11 hours</td>
<td>11 hours</td>
<td>11 hours</td>
<td>227mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>950</td>
<td>1162</td>
<td>562</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/JLPDWyD.png">graph</a></td>
<td>165 minutes</td>
<td>105 minutes</td>
<td>105 minutes</td>
<td>105 minutes</td>
<td>1.5A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>2000</td>
<td>2100</td>
<td>764</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/uxNK2NI.png">graph</a></td>
<td>150 minutes</td>
<td>4 minutes</td>
<td>5 minutes</td>
<td>118 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/gWOTyFx.png">Timed stepdown behavior with water cooling</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>With a thrower, I'm less concerned about how the light looks on a white wall than I might be with other lights. Aesthetically, this is not a bad cool white; it's very pure, with only a hint of green in the corona surrounding the hotspot. Those who don't mind a color temperature around 6000K will probably like it. Practically, however, there's significant visible backscatter, and that's a disadvantage.</p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p>Distance to the statue is roughly 68 meters. White balance is set manually to 5800K and shutter speed is locked, but ISO is automatic (dammit Sony, what part of manual don't you understand?).</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/SrSn8mk.jpg">A4</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/UIo5Q4r.jpg">Acebeam L16 4000K</a> - the L16 is a smaller, less powerful light to illustrate the difference between a throwy general-purpose light and a dedicated thrower like the A4</li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/I6q9PGn.jpg">Haikelite HT35 XHP35 HI 4500K</a> - the HT35 is a large, high-powered aspheric zoomie. Mine is modified with an XHP35 HI, giving it more throw than the original XHP35 HD. It has marginally more throw than the A4, but very little aside from the statue is visible due to the hard cutoff of the aspheric beam pattern.</li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/WLApiNR.jpg">Jetbeam T6 Nichia 319A</a> - the T6 is a much heavier and more expensive light with similar throw to the A4 and double the output. Its beam is typical of similar lights like the Nitecore TM16 and Thrunite TN42.</li>
</ul>
<p>Here's a longer scene. The tree in the center foreground is about 110 meters away, and the far treeline is about 190 meters.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/zJpnVJX.jpg">A4</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/Ch5ZsO8.jpg">L16</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/GEhPwTi.jpg">HT35</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/YkZaKan.jpg">T6</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The A4, like all Wowtac lights has comfortable and effective knurling. The side switch is raised and easy to find. Weight is fairly low for a 2x18650 thrower. The A4 can tailstand, but it's not very stable. There's a lanyard hole, but no lanyard is included. There's no anti-roll, and the A4 rolls easily when sitting on a hard surface on its side.</p>
<p>The A4 doesn't come with a way to carry it. It's too large for a pocket clip and doesn't fit in most jacket pockets. A passthrough cargo pocket would work in a pinch. It would be reasonably comfortable in a third-party belt holster and is easy to find room for in a backpack, but again, there's no lockout.</p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The A4 is well-machined and well-anodized. There are no visible toolmarks or defects. Waterproofing is reliable, with no signs of water ingress after immersion.</p>
<p>An interesting feature is a separate piece adapting the size of the head to the body tube, almost as if the head was designed for a 26650 light.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/jymmDl6.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/jymmDl6.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The A4 is designed to use two 18650 batteries, and unlike other Wowtac lights, does not include them. Wowtac says the A4 is intended for users who already own batteries and chargers and want a high-value thrower. My review sample did come with two Wowtac 3400 mAh batteries, but this is not standard.</p>
<p>Wowtac says the lack of mechanical lockout through anodizing on the threads is to allow third-party batteries longer than theirs to work. While that would work in theory, Wowtac's USB-charging 3400 mAh battery is 69.44mm long, making it one of the longest 18650s on the market. Lest any readers become hopeful about 20700 compatibility, I checked and it doesn't fit.</p>
<p>Shorter batteries, however do not work so well. Unprotected cells are too short to make contact and require a spacer, such as a stack of rare earth magnets to function at all. A spring on the head would have helped here. There's a low-voltage shutoff, so unprotected cells would be a reasonable choice.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>It's likely clear by this point in the review that I think the A4 needs a spring at the head and an emitter swap.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/TevLAkW.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/TevLAkW.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Adding a spring is straightforward: just solder it on. The contact button is large, and it does take a bit of heat to solder to it. I tested the light after installing the spring, and it worked well with unprotected flat-top batteries without using a spacer.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/iarFlSM.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/iarFlSM.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Access to the emitter is as straightforward as it gets. The bezel screws off, allowing removal of the lens and reflector. Interesting here is the presence of a plastic ring between the lens and bezel, reducing the chance of scratches, almost as if Wowtac intended for users to disassemble the A4 (note: I'm sure they did not). The MCPCB is roughly square and made of thick copper. Two screws hold it in place. I won't cover reflowing an emitter here, as there are plenty of how-to posts and videos covering that. I selected a 4000K, 80 CRI XHP35 HI for the A4.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/6WUDiJs.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/6WUDiJs.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/SHkW1A0.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/SHkW1A0.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Before reinstalling the screws, reflector, and lens, I tested the emitter on moonlight. It worked, and there were no signs of trouble. After I put the parts back in, I turned it on to the memorized mode, and no light came out. There was, however, a significant amount of heat. I removed the battery tube and found that my newly installed spring had collapsed, likely from heat, and saw a bit of smoke. I immediately regretted the use of high-drain, unprotected batteries for the initial testing.</p>
<p>I removed the reflector in case there was a short involving it, but the light still wouldn't turn on, even in moonlight. I suspected the reflow might have been bad, resulting in an open circuit. A poorly designed boost driver could be damaged by an open circuit, but I removed the MCPCB and tested the emitter with a stack of lithium button-cells. It illuminated, suggesting an open circuit wasn't the issue.</p>
<p>The driver is held in by the adapter collar for the battery tube. The head-side threads have permanent threadlocker, which required a lot of heat and a strap wrench to get loose. The driver is also glued in place and needed to be tapped out from the emitetr side using a metal rod through the holes for the leads. I see no visible signs of damage here. Here's a picture of the driver for the curious.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/JPcCtos.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/JPcCtos.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Anybody know a boost driver that can take 2S input, provide 12V output, and run Anduril? How about a buck driver with 3V output? I suppose I should just ask Wowtac if they'll sell me a driver by itself.</p>Review: Thrunite TH30, the most powerful 18650 right-angle headlamp2018-09-12T00:00:00+00:002018-09-12T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-09-12:/thrunite-th30.html<p>The Thrunite TH30 is a right-angle flashlight/headlamp using a single 18650 battery and a Cree XHP70.2 emitter to make 3350 lumens. It has the highest output of any light in this form factor as of this writing. As a result, the size and weight are higher than average, but manageable for those who value output. It features USB charging and includes a suitable high-drain 18650 battery.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-th30-super-bright-rechargeable-headlamp/">Thrunite TH30</a> was provided by Thrunite for review. Use coupon code "20%" to get the TH30 for $64, and to get 20% off several other products at thrunite.com. The TH30 is also available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVK57CZ/?tag=zakwilson-01-20">on Amazon</a>.</p>
<p>The full image gallery is <a href="https://imgur.com/a/kz1Nq52">here</a></p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Thrunite TH30 is a right-angle flashlight/headlamp using a single 18650 battery and a Cree XHP70.2 emitter to make 3350 lumens. It has the highest output of any light in this form factor as of this writing, and I believe it has the highest output of any reasonably pocket-friendly flashlight when measured by FL1 standards. More on that later. A 3100 mAh battery is included, and the light has a MicroUSB charging port on its head. As is typical for the class, it includes both a pocket clip and a headband, though only one can be used at a time.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Jc1i64D.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Jc1i64D.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The big story with the TH30 is, of course, the output. 3350 lumens is a lot, and unlike some hot-rod lights, it can actually maintain that output for over a minute under reasonable conditions. After the inevitable thermal throttling, the TH30 is quite efficient at medium to high outputs, with long runtime compared to the competition. The output and efficiency come with a couple of significant costs however. The TH30 is heavy and bulky for its class, and like every light I've seen using the XHP70.2, the beam isn't especially pretty. The USB cover flap can come open during use from thermal expansion of the air inside, and the light is not waterproof with the flap open.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/RZtOxvK.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/RZtOxvK.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The TH30 offers a compelling combination of features, but it isn't for everyone. Many people prefer that lights in this form factor have a tailcap magnet. Still more place a high premium on color quality, compact size or light weight. The TH30 is for people who absolutely, positively have to put out more light than the next guy - a task at which it excels.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/iQBFM9W.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/iQBFM9W.jpg"></a></p>
<ul>
<li>+ 3350 lumens is <strong>bright</strong></li>
<li>+ Turbo mode takes 40-60 seconds to throttle, which is a long time for so much output in a package this small</li>
<li>+ Efficiency is very good</li>
<li>+ Shortcuts from of to high, low, and last-used, with a single click always being on/off</li>
<li>+ Traditional beam pattern with huge hotspot is useful</li>
<li>
<p>+ Very fast USB charging</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>- SOS is in the main mode rotation</p>
</li>
<li>- XHP70.2 is always ugly</li>
<li>- Bulky/heavy</li>
<li>- Low CRI</li>
<li>- USB flap can open spontaneously during use, compromising waterproofing</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should buy the TH30</h2>
<ul>
<li>Lumen junkies</li>
<li>People who place a high value on battery life at high output</li>
<li>People who want an all-in-one package</li>
</ul>
<h2>Who should not buy the TH30</h2>
<ul>
<li>CRI babies</li>
<li>Tint snobs</li>
<li>Anyone who subscribes to /r/ultralight</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The TH30 comes in cool white (~6500K) or neutral white (~4500K). This review is of the neutral white version.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TH30 includes a Thrunite protected high-drain 3100 mAh 18650 battery, a USB cable, headband, spare head mount, spare o-rings, spare USB cover, warranty card, and manual.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/HmqS94s.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/HmqS94s.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Memorized mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Firefly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On less than 5s</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle L -> H + SOS starting from the current mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On more than 5s since last mode change, or in firefly</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle L -> H + SOS starting from low</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>This UI is similar to Thrunite's other e-switch UIs, with one <strong>glaring</strong> exception. Thrunite usually puts a blinky mode, whether it's SOS or strobe in a hidden position accessed by a second double-click from turbo. Here, SOS is in the main mode rotation where it can be accessed by mistake much more easily. I found this odd and asked my contact at Thrunite for an explanation.</p>
<p>The explanation was that it's possible to run the TH30 on a low-drain protected cell in all modes other than turbo, and Thrunite felt it was important to be able to access SOS when using such a cell. They also believe that accidental activation is not very likely since the light starts its mode cycle from low most of the time. I tried a Thrunite 3400 mAh protected 18650 and found that turbo does, indeed immediately trip the protection, but the other modes work fine as claimed, allowing access to SOS.</p>
<p>I do understand Thrunite's reasoning, though I wish they had looked for another solution, such as holding the switch for more than 5 seconds from off. I do pass the SOS mode when I don't want to using the TH30 because the timer for cycling from low is started by either changing modes <strong>or</strong> turning on the light, so trying to reduce output immediately after turning on the light will pass SOS. A workaround is to turn it off and restart from firefly.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>The TH30 is an output monster. Friends used to my flashlight antics commented on how it lit up a large yard like day when I hadn't mentioned I was testing a new light.</p>
<p>All data collected using a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted. Thrunite's published figures are based on the included Thrunite 3100 mAh 18650.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.9 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>0.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>32 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>25</td>
<td>12</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>60 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium-low</td>
<td>126</td>
<td>130</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>14 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>352</td>
<td>336</td>
<td>48</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/fuZNbXH.png">graph</a></td>
<td>5 hours</td>
<td>194 minutes</td>
<td>194 minutes</td>
<td>194 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1275</td>
<td>1240</td>
<td>92</td>
<td><a href="https://i.imgur.com/zQcaPml.png">graph</a></td>
<td>90 minutes</td>
<td>5.5 minutes</td>
<td>102 minutes</td>
<td>102 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>3350</td>
<td>3350</td>
<td>150</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/rvCqp0T.png">graph</a></td>
<td>1.5 + 103 minutes</td>
<td>1.3 minutes</td>
<td>2 minutes</td>
<td>100 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Here are some graphs showing the effects of cooling on max:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/rvCqp0T.png">Full runtime, fan-cooled</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/zJOB45s.png">Stepdowns, water-cooled</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/O0f7Lr8.png">Stepdowns, ice-water-cooled</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/2bkNEYO.png">Stepdowns, ice-water-cooled with the Thrunite battery</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/FaYPIwF.png">Full runtime, ice-water-cooled, reset on stepdown</a></li>
</ul>
<p>The turbo output, tested in a crudely-calibrated box using a smartphone, was right on the dot. At power-on, I saw as much as 3550 lumens. Throw, too was within a reasonable margin of error with my estimating methods. Lower modes were also very close to advertised.</p>
<p>To determine what will cause the TH30 to step down, I cooled it during testing. First I used a fan. Then I immersed the TH30 in water. Finally, I replaced about half the volume of water with ice cubes. In all cases, the TH30 throttled at 3 minutes, but it would also throttle earlier if it got hot, and sometimes by a smaller amount I'm assuming is a response to voltage drop. The third type of throttling would occur with an unprotected, flat-top Sony VTC6, but not the Thrunite 3100 mAh battery or a VTC6 with a magnet added to make it longer. This suggests that the reduced resistance of a tighter battery fit results in less voltage drop measured at the driver, preventing a stepdown.</p>
<p>I was unable to test current with the light operating, as it refused to power on with power routed through my ammeter instead of the tailcap.</p>
<p>An indicator light under the switch shows the battery status, except in firefly. The light is blue over 20% estimated capacity, solid red for 10-20%, and blinking red for under 10%. The main LED also blinks occasionally to indicate low battery.</p>
<p>On high, the TH30 produces 1472 lumen-hours from a VTC6, which has a capacity of 10.7 Wh under a 2A load. The actual load on high is close to that based on the runtime. That's 137 lumens per Watt, which is extremely high for a flashlight of this size and output. I'm only seeing 102 lm/W for medium though, which is a little odd. Runtime for medium was also much less than advertised, unlike high and turbo.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Those familiar with the XHP70.2 and my preferences regarding light quality probably know what to expect here. Light quality is a big weak point of the TH30. On lower modes, all parts of the beam are obnoxiously green. Somehow the spill manages to be simultaneously green and purple. How it does this would be a neat trick if it had any value, but it's just ugly. The tint becomes less green as the output goes up, and turbo doesn't really look bad at all. Unfortunately, turbo is only sustainable for around a minute.</p>
<p>I can hardly blame Thrunite for this choice. Lumens sell lights, and there are no other single-emitter options proven in flashlights that would match the output possible with the XHP70.2. That said, it might put the TH30 out of the running for people who care more about color than output.</p>
<p>I do enjoy the traditional reflector beam pattern with such a huge hotspot and bright spill. It's novel compared to the diffused options common in the segment and accomplishes the same goal of effective flood in a different, useful way.</p>
<p>Beamshots are taken with manual white balance set to 5200K.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/eu8nzGV.jpg">Medium</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/7FOJ1Mr.jpg">Turbo</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/Anfr8O9.jpg">Turbo</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The TH30 is solidly constructed. There are no visible toolmarks, all the threads are smooth, and overall fit is great. It has decent anodizing, though I did put a scratch in it installing the clip at the wrong angle. Waterproofing is very reliable as long as the USB flap is closed.</p>
<p>That last point is a bit of a concern, because when operating at max output, there's enough heat to expand the air inside to the point that it pops the flap open. This does not occur if the light is used under water, but could be a problem if the light is used in rain or exposed to water after some initial use.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/0JyKT8w.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/0JyKT8w.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>In the hand, the TH30 feels typical for a top-switch right-angle light. The knurling is grippy, but not uncomfortable. The switch is easy to find, easy to press intentionally, and hard to press accidentally. It has noticebly more girth than some of the competition, but that's not a problem in the hand.</p>
<p>The extra girth is more of a problem in the pocket. It's definitely tolerable, but even with pockets specifically designed to carry bulky tools on pocket clips, it's hard to ignore. Using the TH30 for everyday carry would require committment.</p>
<p>Used as a headlamp, the weight is noticeable in comparison to other 1x18650 right-angle lights. For working on a car, it's fine. For running, it's probably not justifiable unless conditions really demand high output. The headband itself is average for the class; it's comfortable enough.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/92sO0N2.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/92sO0N2.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>A Thrunite-branded, high-drain, 3100 mAh, protected 18650 battery is included. The outer wrapper is semi-transparent, and the markings underneath identify it as a Samsung 30Q. This is one of the best performing options for 18650 batteries with both high capacity and high maximum current, and is entirely appropriate for the TH30.</p>
<p>The TH30 has low-voltage protection and I measured a Sony VTC6 at 2.89V after shutoff. It had a few minutes to rebound before the measurement, so the actual shutoff voltage is likely a little lower. This is safe for all unprotected 18650s.</p>
<p>Charging via USB from a 1.8A power supply took 3 hours, which is the fastest I've tested in a USB-charging light. An indicator light under the switch shows red during charging and blue when charged.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>Some users might want to add a magnet. It would need to be a rather potent one and probably needs to go on the outside of the tailcap. As rare earth magnets are somewhat brittle, anyone doing this should probably add a coating. The thought of sealing the USB port with epoxy for waterproofing has crossed my mind, for those who don't make use of the onboard charging.</p>
<p>The main issue most of us likely want to address is the emitter. Any XHP70 or XHP70.2 is a trivial swap. With a different MCPCB, any XHP50, XHP50.2, Nichia 144AM (6V) or quad Nichia E21A configured for 6 volt operation is also likely to work, but with more heat and less output. For this light, I selected a 4000K, 80 CRI XHP70.2. The part number is XHP70B-00-0000-0D0HM440G, and it's available from Arrow with free overnight shipping.</p>
<p>https://imgur.com/5TEq5Hq</p>
<p>Yes, Arrow uses all that packaging for a single LED.</p>
<p>The bezel screws off. It's easily loosened with snap-ring pliers. Under it is a plastic ring to protect the lens, the lens, a seal, and the reflector. The MCPCB is held down by screws, and the rest is a standard <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvmDQIWh43Q">reflow</a>. Large LEDs like the XHP70.2 are generally easier to reflow than smaller ones.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/IMkZvUh.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/IMkZvUh.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/2JlmPcP.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/2JlmPcP.jpg"></a></p>
<p>And yet, I somehow managed to get it wrong. Projected through an ansheric optic from another light, it's clear two dies aren't lit because the electrical contacts on one side aren't soldered properly.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/HJGMJxq.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/HJGMJxq.jpg"></a></p>
<p>It should look like this.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/UTEtjBL.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/UTEtjBL.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Output is slightly reduced, to about 3000 lumens. This is not a visible difference, but the change to the beam is quite visible.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/SDfdXKB.jpg">White wall, medium</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/guLmWAh.jpg">White wall, turbo</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/KLtoLxx.jpg">Outdoor, medium</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/KCW8G76.jpg">Outdoor, turbo</a></li>
</ul>
<p>It's warmer, of course, but it also loses a lot of the green and purple. There's much less tint shift. Colors are visibly more vibrant. Indoors, it's a noticeably yellow 4000K and not especially nice, but it's fairly pleasant outdoors. Using this emitter improves the TH30 without fundamentally changing it.</p>
<p>Here's a comparison shot, with auto white balance to emphasize the differences in tint. All are 4000K and set to a similar output level. Left to right: Nitecore HC30 with 219C, 90 CRI; TH30 with XHP70.2, 80 CRI, Acebeam L16 with XHP35 HI, 80 CRI.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/T8TVajV.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/T8TVajV.jpg"></a></p>Review: Wowtac A2S, a budget right-angle headlamp with USB battery2018-08-24T00:00:00+00:002018-08-24T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-08-24:/wowtac-a2s.html<p>Wowtac is a budget brand affiliated with Thrunite offering a line of 18650-powered flashlights, with an included 18650 battery that has a direct USB charging port, starting at $20. The A2S is the right-angle/headlamp version with higher output and a larger battery capacity for $30. This is probably the best value headlamp on the market and also makes a good handheld.</p><p>This <a href="http://wowtac.com/wowtac-a2s-headlamp-1050-lumen/">Wowtac A2S</a> was provided by Wowtac for review. The A2S is also available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Headlamps/dp/B075ZN5LJY/?tag=zakwilson01-20">on Amazon</a>.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/CdpDulO</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>Wowtac is a budget brand affiliated with Thrunite offering a line of 18650-powered flashlights, with an included 18650 battery that has a direct USB charging port, starting at $20. The A2S is the right-angle/headlamp version with higher output and a larger battery capacity for $30.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/9orgCZS.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/9orgCZS.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The A2S features a 3400 mAh battery, 1050 lumens and 150m FL1 throw, making it competitive with most of the right-angle segment. It fell a little short of the claimed 182m throw, but otherwise performs as advertised. The UI offers shortcuts to the highest, lowest and last-used modes with a single press for on/off. Neutral white is available, though it's not the nicest looking neutral white I've seen with some noticeable green, and tint shift across the beam. A headband is included, but not a pocket clip, making the A2S more headlamp than EDC as it comes. A Thrunite TN12 pocket clip will fit.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/D9NnETr.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/D9NnETr.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I own several right-angle lights, and while the A2S is not my favorite of them, it costs a third what higher-end models do. Those often don't include a battery or charging solution, so the price difference can be larger still. The A2S is an incredible value, and any potential shortcomings must be considered in light of the fact that it costs $30 for an all-inclusive package. If you don't already have batteries and chargers, and you want a headlamp for less than $50, the A2S is almost certainly your best option. The all-inclusive package makes it a good gift or recommendation for people not interested in flashlights as a hobby.</p>
<ul>
<li>+ Excellent value</li>
<li>+ User interface has shortcuts</li>
<li>+ Simple on/off</li>
<li>
<p>+ Very high output for this market segment</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>- Missing O-ring on my sample</p>
</li>
<li>- Tint isn't especially nice, even in NW</li>
<li>- Low-CRI</li>
<li>- Pocket clip not included</li>
</ul>
<h3>Who should buy the A2S:</h3>
<ul>
<li>People who are price-sensitive</li>
<li>People who don't have an existing stock of batteries and chargers</li>
<li>People who want to swap emitters in right-angle lights</li>
</ul>
<h3>Who should not buy the A2S:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Tint snobs who don't want to swap emitters</li>
<li>CRI babies who don't want to swap emitters</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Versions</h2>
<p>The A2 series includes:</p>
<ul>
<li>A2 (CW only): XP-G2 emitter, 550 lumens max, 2600 mAh battery, $20</li>
<li>A2S (CW): XP-L emitter, 1050 lumens max, 3400 mAh battery, $30</li>
<li>A2S (NW): same as above, but neutral white around 4500K CCT, $30</li>
</ul>
<p>This is the A2S NW.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The A2S includes a headband, two spare O-rings, a Wowtac branded 18650 with USB charging port, and a MicroUSB charging cable.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/isFEhAJ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/isFEhAJ.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Firefly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (exc turbo)</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through the three middle modes L->H</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Changing modes within a few seconds of a previous mode change advances from the current mode, but after waiting a while, the cycle will start from low. The Thrunite TC12 v2 is known to have the same behavior, and I find it thoughtful. Waiting a bit longer for a higher mode is better than overillumination that impacts dark adaptation. Turbo is always a double-click away if high output is desirable in a hurry.</p>
<p>Unscrewing either the head or tail a quarter turn disconnects the battery, reliably locking out the light from accidental activation and eliminating standby power drain for long-term storage.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised output and runtime is with the included Wowtac 3400 mAh battery. Test data was collected with a Sony VTC6 3000 mAh battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2 years</td>
<td>0.1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>0.3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>59 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>38 days (calculated)</td>
<td>3.27</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>24</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4.5 days (calculated)</td>
<td>28</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>126</td>
<td>106</td>
<td>48</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/MDdW7dm.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>38 days (calculated)</td>
<td>134</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>420</td>
<td>390</td>
<td>92</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/U073PZX.png">graph</a></td>
<td>4.5 hours</td>
<td>80 minutes</td>
<td>2.4 hours</td>
<td>3.6 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1050</td>
<td>1040</td>
<td>150</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/kXvGgk3.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2.7 hours</td>
<td>3.6 minutes</td>
<td>56 minutes</td>
<td>2.3 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo (Wowtac battery)</td>
<td>1050</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/zMXM12u.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2.7 hours</td>
<td>3.6 minutes</td>
<td>37 minutes</td>
<td>2.7 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Runtime with the supplied battery is exactly as advertised and significantly longer than the difference in capacity would suggest. Time to 50% tells the story: the VTC6 maintains higher voltage, and therefore higher output for longer.</p>
<p>There is low-voltage protection at about 2.6V.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Light quality is a weak point of the A2S, despite coming in the popular 4500K neutral white, which should look similar to mid-afternoon sunlight. There's a significant green off-tint to the hotspot, and the corona around it is even more green. The spill, on the other hand tends toward purple, yet somehow still has a greenish tinge. The green tint is stronger in lower modes, but always present. CRI, a measure of color quality is unspecified, but probably around 70. CRI over 90 is available in LEDs, and 100 is the theoretical maximum.</p>
<p>Comparison: Wizard Pro 144A: https://imgur.com/dgOfC3z.jpg</p>
<p>The green off tint is noticeable outdoors, and I find it distracting. It's excusable at this price point, but LEDs producing nice looking light are not expensive. They usually give up a little output, but human vision can barely detect moderate differences in output, while significant differences in color are easy to see.</p>
<p>There is PWM in lower modes, but it's extremely fast and only shows up when photographing the emitter directly using an electronic rolling shutter like a smartphone. It is not visible to the naked eye under any circumstances</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p>White balance is 5200K for all beamshots.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/CNiXm7J.jpg</li>
<li>Versus BLF 348 (219B): https://imgur.com/ae5YvDk.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/HV3B0Sm.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/YfaeX0Y.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/HS7kdyy.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>For comparison, here's the last scene illuminated with a Nitecore HC30 with a 4000K, 90 CRI Nichia 219C:</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/qh7ifyR.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The A2S is simply and solidly built, with an all-aluminum body. It uses square-cut threads, which are more durable than the triangular threads more commonly seen in this price range. My sample was missing the head-side o-ring, and unsurprisingly failed a brief immersion test. I installed one of the included spares, after which it had no water ingress when submerged.</p>
<p>Lest there be any suggestion that samples provided to reviewers have unusually good quality control, that is obviously not the situation here.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>As a handheld flashlight, the A2S has ergonomics typical of right-angle lights with a top switch. It's comfortable in the hand. The switch is easy to reach with a finger or thumb while still clearing the lens. With an added pocket clip, it's no more bulky in the pocket, carried head-down than the average 18650 light. I do recommend turning the battery tube around to make it sit a little deeper.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/aavjJHj.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/aavjJHj.jpg"></a></p>
<p>As a headlamp, it's similar to other angle lights with rubber holders. That is to say, it's less comfortable than Armytek's plastic mount, but not bad. I could work or hike for hours with the A2S without complaint.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/OpXkpO2.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/OpXkpO2.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The A2S comes with a Wowtac branded 3400 mAh battery with a USB charging port. I haven't unwrapped it, but it's probably an LG F1L. My Opus BT-C3100 shows 3220 mAh, which is a little low, but in the normal range for that cell. USB charging takes 5.5 hours and does result in the button top getting quite warm to the touch. This is typical of other Li-ion cells with this style of charging port, and the rest of the cell stays at a more comfortable temperature.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>It's easy to remove the bezel ring from the A2S using snap-ring pliers. Removing everything down to the MCPCB is straightforward, and the MCPCB itself isn't especially hard to get out. It does require a bit of force though due to the type of thermal paste used. I put a hook made from a nail under the MCPCB on the switch side and pulled straight up.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/3rZNm2r.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/gWbVUN6.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>I've been pretty clear about my disdain for the stock XP-L. Not every XP-L looks as bad, but domed XP-Ls usually aren't any tint snob's favorite no matter the tint bin. This thing needs more ~~Nichia~~ Samsung. After my recent post about Arrow practically giving away LH351D emitters, I suspect nobody will be surprised about this being my choice of swap here.</p>
<p>The LH351D is identical in size and beam pattern, and superior to the XP-L in output and efficiency. Of course, in 90 CRI it does take a bit of an output hit versus a low-CRI emitter: a 6% loss, to be exact. The LH351D makes 1000 lumens at 30 seconds. Most people cannot even detect a 4% difference in brightness with their eyes, much less notice it in a practical sense. </p>
<p>This is a 5000K, 90 CRI LH351D, An a white wall, it's much more even and less green than the XP-L. The closest tint comparison I've seen would be a 5000K Nichia 219C, though the Samsung looks a little less green to my eyes. Testing by maukka <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1355850#comment-1355850">shows that this emitter is awesome</a> with CRI comfortably in the 90s, and R9, measuring deep red, over 60. R9 is difficult for LEDs to score well on, and typical high-CRI Nichias guarantee a minimum of 50.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://i.imgur.com/A8kls13.jpg">White wall, LH351D</a> (WB 5200K)</li>
<li><a href="https://i.imgur.com/TMbyNNN.jpg">Outdoor, stock XP-L</a></li>
<li><a href="https://i.imgur.com/3nNnLfZ.jpg">Outdoor, LH351D</a> (WB 5200K)</li>
</ul>
<p>I think the last two photos really drive home the point. The hotspot of the XP-L looks overexposed while the LH351D is clear. There's no difference in camera settings, nor any significant difference in light intensity. The XP-L looks overexposed because there isn't sufficient color information.</p>
<p>If Wowtac were to update the A2S with this emitter as stock, it would be a huge improvement to the light. Traditionally, there has been a significant tradeoff between color quality and output, but not here. The LH351D even costs less than the XP-L. There's no disadvantage I can see to using it. If anyone at Wowtac is interested, the part number is SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6.</p>Review and safety evaluation: Olight H2R, an 18650 right-angle headlamp with magnetic charging2018-08-02T00:00:00+00:002018-08-02T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-08-02:/olight-h2r.html<p>The Olight H2R is a right-angle flashlight/headlamp/worklight similar to the Armytek Wizard Pro. Its exposed charging contacts presented a fire hazard at the time of this review, but the tailcap design has since been updated. It has high output and a good user interface, but a weak magnet, exposed scratch-prone plastic optic, and a headband I found uncomfortable.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.illumn.com/olight-h2r-nova-rechargeable-headlamp-xhp-50-2300-lumens-neutral-white.html">Olight H2R</a> was provided by Illumn for review. Use coupon code "REDDIT" for 10% off most flashlights at illumn.com.</p>
<p>Some extra pictures are in the album: https://imgur.com/a/OQDgy</p>
<h1>Safety evaluation</h1>
<p>I requested a sample of this light to evaluate safety concerns with the charging system. I'm including an overall review that largely ignores the safety concerns as well, but it's somewhat abbreviated relative to my usual.</p>
<p>The H2R uses a charging system that connects a proprietary battery directly to contacts on the tailcap, to which a magnetic charger can be attached. This connection is live whenever a proprietary Olight battery is installed, creating a potential for short circuits across the external contacts. To make matters worse, there's a magnet in the tailcap that can attract conductive objects. I made several videos demonstrating just how much power can come out of the tailcap:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCEjJhm8qYM">Igniting steel wool</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ENMZLqgpto">Electrolyzing salt water</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEGoH03stY4">Powering another flashlight</a></li>
</ul>
<p>My biggest concern when the H2R came out was that the battery appeared to be unprotected, creating the potential for a dead short and a battery explosion that would make the H2R into a pipe bomb. I'm happy to report that there is effective protection against this scenario. The tailcap contains a positive thermal coefficient thermistor that limits current to around 400mA after a less than a second of short circuit. The battery itself also has a PTC thermistor between the positive contact and the extra negative charging contact. Finally, Olight claims there's over-current protection at 27A. The H2R is not a pipe bomb.</p>
<p>The H2R, and the rest of Olight's magnetic charging line is, however a fire hazard. Contact between the tailcap and many kinds of conductive object will produce sparks with the potential to ignite flammable gasses and vapors. Very flammable conductors, such as steel wool and some kinds of metal shavings and dust will ignite on contact, and the magnet in the tailcap will attract many such objects. The only ways to mitigate the risk are to use a third-party battery, cover the contacts or modify the tailcap to permanently disable charging.</p>
<p>The battery itself is also very easy to short, with contacts that are exposed and close together. Olight recommends against using this battery in a third-party charger, though I have done it without any sparks. Such a short will reduce current after a moment, but the initial current is enough to weld a staple to the contacts. The magnetic charger, however supplies only about 70mA when not connected to the light and would not ignite steel wool.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2y8VB9r7ms">Shorting the battery with a staple</a></p>
<p>Perhaps I'm growing old and conservative, but I don't think flashlights and headlamps should ignite objects on contact. Ever. Several other companies have managed to design magnetic charging systems that aren't incendiary, and most of those don't require proprietary batteries. The output and efficiency of the H2R are world-class, so it's evident that Olight has competent engineers who could come up with a charging system that's both safe and convenient, but they've chosen a lazy solution instead. It's particularly egregious in that onboard charging is a feature that's especially attractive to beginners and casual users who don't know a lot about battery safety. Flashlight geeks who are aware of the risks are usually just as happy to buy lights without it.</p>
<p>I don't believe anybody should buy an H2R, but for those who already have one, or who want one anyway because it's the brightest 1x18650 right-angle light on the market, here are some options for mitigating the risk:</p>
<ul>
<li>Use a third-party battery. Most protected batteries will trip, but an unprotected button top is safe to use. There may be a little battery rattle, as it's designed for a long battery.</li>
<li>Add an insulator to the extra contact on the included battery.</li>
<li>Tape over the charging contacts on the outside of the tailcap.</li>
<li>Remove the internal charging contacts from the tailcap (see modifications section).</li>
</ul>
<p>I've been informed Olight has started distributing warning labels for the H2R telling users the tailcap can be a source of ignition and recommending against use around metal dust or explosive atmospheres. This is good advice. It would be better if they redesigned the tailcap to never supply current to the outside of the light; a diode would do the trick, even if it might slightly reduce the charging termination voltage and therefore battery capacity. Even better would be for future models to use a charging system that doesn't require a proprietary battery.</p>
<p>http://i.imgur.com/nouWpEy.png</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Olight H2R is the brightest 1x18650 right-angle light or headlamp on the market using a Cree XHP50 emitter and honeycomb TIR to produce an advertised 2300 (cool white) or 2150 (neutral white) lumens. I actually measured over 2500. They're not padding the numbers here: it rivals the output of custom, hot-rod FET triples and is visibly brighter than its closest competition, the Armytek Wizard Pro... for about 45 seconds.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/hTUogXO.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/hTUogXO.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Unsustainable burst modes can be useful in flashlights, but the next mode down from 2500 lumens is 600. Even with human perception of brightness being highly non-linear, that's a huge gap. The thermal stepdown from max is slightly higher, but still a large gap. I think Olight was trying to keep the UI simple and avoid adding too many modes, but a light with a range of 1 to 2500 lumens probably needs more than 5 modes. Aside from having a lower maximum mode, the Wizard Pro has a second, lower turbo mode at 900 lumens and thermal regulation that throttles more intelligently rather than simply chopping output to 50%.</p>
<p>The headband uses an interesting combination of magnet and silicone strap. The magnet makes installation easier by attracting the steel in the battery, but isn't enough to hold the light in place securely. Unfortunately, it does not work well with the pocket clip installed and removal of the clip is recommended in the manual. It's also not very comfortable for me. It <strong>looks</strong> rounded and padded, but it creates a hotspot on my forehead that the Wizard's headband does not and feels much heavier than the Wizard. This may be subjective, and some people may find the headband more comfortable than I did. In reality, it's only 13g heavier (174g with battery and headband vs 161g), but it feels like a lot more on my head. It's quite comfortable in a pocket though and does make a good EDC light once adequately protected from short circuits.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/jU99gsa.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/jU99gsa.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Waterproofing was flawless in my testing, however there is no glass lens over the plastic TIR, which I see as a significant durability concern. Plastic scratches easily, and the angled, press-fit bezel of the H2R is likely quite difficult to remove and replace. The Wizard has a lens. The budget-oriented Astrolux S41 has a lens. The severely flawed Astrolux S42 has a lens. The $90 Olight H2R does not have a lens.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Z6xr3D7.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Z6xr3D7.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Aside from the safety issues, the H2R isn't a bad light. It has a decent user interface, extremely high output and a really nice, ever so slightly rosy 5000K tint that reminds me of the MT-G2. It's easily the nicest tint I've seen on an XHP series emitter. In a vaccuum, the H2R would be a decent buy, but used back to back with the Wizard Pro, it really didn't measure up. I'm told Illumn will have the Wizard Pro V3 in stock soon.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Best-in-class output</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Best-in-class efficiency</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Beautiful tint</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Bonus emergency fire starter</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Might burn your house down</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Proprietary battery</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Bad PWM on moonlight</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No sustainable higher modes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Crude thermal regulation</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Mode memory only remembers the three lowest modes after 10 minutes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Moonlight only accessable from off</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The Olight H2R ships with:</p>
<ul>
<li>Proprietary Olight battery</li>
<li>Magnetic charger</li>
<li>Headband</li>
<li>Pocket clip</li>
<li>Spare foam for the headband</li>
<li>Manual</li>
</ul>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Last-used (see below)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Moonlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle l/m/h</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Longer-press</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Longer-press</td>
<td>Moonlight</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Mode memory only retains turbo and high for 10 minutes. I can see the reasoning for turbo, but high is only 600 lumens and is likely to be the mode a user wants to use repeatedly in a lot of situations. All mode and power changes on the H2R use ramping, which is just slow enough to be distracting, especially when turning off.</p>
<p>Moonlight uses very slow PWM, and sensitive users <strong>will</strong> notice it.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/rEYtFe7.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/rEYtFe7.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Beamshots:</p>
<p>Control</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/tl320UW.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/tl320UW.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Max</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/l8wHrXf.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/l8wHrXf.jpg"></a></p>
<p>High</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/CfofN1C.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/CfofN1C.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Wizard Pro CW turbo2</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ADUGdFw.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ADUGdFw.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Wizard Pro CW turbo1 - this mode is usually sustainable</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/CtkA3lX.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/CtkA3lX.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests performed with the included Olight 3000 mAh proprietary battery unless otherwise noted. This battery is based on the Samsung 30Q. Advertised runtime assumes a thermal stepdown, but I performed the test immersed in water to prevent any stepdowns.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>FL1 throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Moonlight</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>lumens</td>
<td>throw</td>
<td>graph</td>
<td>45 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>27</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>graph</td>
<td>50h</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>210</td>
<td>42</td>
<td>graph</td>
<td>10h</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>550</td>
<td>742</td>
<td>79</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/chxd2Eu.png">graph</a></td>
<td>150 min</td>
<td>141 min</td>
<td>141 min</td>
<td>141 min</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>2150</td>
<td>2500</td>
<td>145</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/E2Elvem.png">graph</a></td>
<td>110m</td>
<td>18 min</td>
<td>24 min</td>
<td>24 min</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Behavior with other batteries on max output was inconsistent, and I don't think Olight did much to test that scenario as it's very unlikely anyone would cool an H2R enough for it to matter in real-world use. With fan cooling, it did attempt to step back to full output once before quickly dropping to 60%. A regulation program with some smaller steps would improve usability here; this feels like a first attempt by somebody who didn't bother to look at how anybody else does it.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/Pmmll7o.png">Fan cooled</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/pmdutGm.png">Acebeam 3100 mAh</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/MwQz6rq.png">Sony VTC6</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>The included battery is a Samsung 30Q with a protection PCB and extra contacts. There is low-voltage protection at 2.55V. Olight claims there is over-current protection at 27A, but I don't have a way to accurately measure that. There is, additionally a secondary form of over-current protection on the charging contacts (see safety section). The magnetic charger takes about 5 hours.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/xByvlmP.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/xByvlmP.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>It's probably possible to change the emitter in the H2R, but doing so would certainly mar the bezel and might turn out difficult. The included emitter is very nice, and I did not attempt it.</p>
<p>I did, however disassemble and modify the tailcap to disable the charging system, as I believe it to be unsafe and I will be giving away this light to a redditor. The tailcap retaining ring is very tight and I couldn't loosen it with my snap ring pliers. This modified saw blade modified into a suitable wrench made it much easier.</p>
<p>I removed the ring contact and desoldered the thermistor and spring from the board, then added a brass button to make flat-tops work reliably. An H2 without the R is a safe and useful light. Perhaps Olight should offer them this way.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/OgFPV9y.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/OgFPV9y.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/aqhPDL1.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/aqhPDL1.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/nPAq2Xc.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/nPAq2Xc.jpg"></a></p>Review: Rofis MR70, a multifunction flashlight/powerbank2018-05-10T00:00:00+00:002018-05-10T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-05-10:/rofis-mr70.html<p>The Rofis MR70 is a combination flashlight, lantern and USB powerbank powered by a standard-size 26650 Li-ion rechargeable battery (included). The lantern is warm white and the main LED is cool white. Neither has an especially low mode, and the timed stepdown for the main LED is quite aggressive. The MR70 is versatile though, offering several functions and a lot of battery capacity.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.banggood.com/Rofis-MR70-XHP70_2-CWXP-G2-NW-3500LM-Dual-Light-Multifunction-Rechargeable-LED-Flashlight-26650-p-1250131.html?utm_source=bbs&utm_medium=zak&utm_content=chendongling">Rofis MR70</a> was provided by Banggood for review. To get the MR70 for $64.69, use coupon code YMR70.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/t8A6cn8</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>Note to the reader: I've simplified this section a bit and added some brief explanations of jargon, because I think this light is aimed at a very mainstream audience. I'd appreciate feedback on whether that's helpful.</p>
<p>The Rofis MR70 is a combination flashlight, lantern and USB powerbank powered by a standard-size 26650 Li-ion rechargeable battery (included). Its main LED is a Cree XHP70.2, which produces a claimed 3500 lumens (total output) and 248m FL1 throw (distance at which large objects are visible). Charging is via a MicroUSB port, and USB output is available by plugging a standard USB-OTG adapter (included) into that port. On the side, there's a Cree XP-G2 under a diffuser, which produces 200 lumens of warm, very diffuse light. All functions are accessible using the single side swich, which includes a battery charge indicator light.</p>
<p>https://imgur.com/HWAswg3.jpg
https://imgur.com/EYx1zNK.jpg</p>
<p>This light mostly does what it says on the ~~tin~~ cardboard box. It makes about the amount of light it says it does. It outputs USB like it says it does. It's waterproof like it says it is as long as the USB flap is properly sealed. The main LED is cool white (more blue, less yellow/red) like it says it is. Output steps down after a short time, like it says it does. The light shuts off when the battery voltage gets low to avoid the risk of damage, like it says it does. Runtime is a little shorter than advertised in most modes.</p>
<p>https://imgur.com/3LrS9uz.jpg
https://imgur.com/UzWBjku.jpg</p>
<p>If you're a flashlight enthusiast like I am, you can read the product page and figure out whether this is a light you're going to like. Personally, it doesn't excite me. I don't think we're really the target market. The cool white main emitter isn't what most of us like. The greenish corona and generally ugly beam <em>really</em> isn't what most of us like. Timed stepdowns don't win a light any points in 2018 when most lights have a temperature sensor, and there's <strong>really</strong> no need for it on the side emitter. Of course, both are low CRI (color vividness/accuracy). There's no PWM (flicker), at least.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/WFDVrOQ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/WFDVrOQ.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The MR70 would, however be great for someone who we flashlight geeks haven't talked into caring about all that. For the vast majority of people, the MR70 will be the brightest flashlight they've ever seen. It exceeds the combined output of most car headlights, can charge most phones a couple times, works great as a reading light in a tent (or a hotel with broken lights), requires nothing that doesn't come in the box (except a USB power source to recharge it) and won't need a new battery for at least 5 years of normal use. I bet my mother would love it.</p>
<p>I liked:</p>
<ul>
<li>High output from the main LED</li>
<li>Smooth beam free of artifacts</li>
<li>High powerbank output</li>
<li>All-in-one package</li>
</ul>
<p>I disliked:</p>
<ul>
<li>Cool white main emitter</li>
<li>Low CRI for both emitters</li>
<li>Timed stepdowns (even on the 200 lumen side emitter)</li>
<li>Unreasonably conservative voltage stepdown on max</li>
<li>No shortcut to a low mode from off</li>
<li>Charging port isn't USB-C. It's 2018, and this is a new product.</li>
<li>Runtimes are slightly shorter than advertised</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The MR70 has a lot of functions controlled by a single button, however it's not especially complicated to use in practice. A single short press of the button is always on/off, so even the least tech-savvy user should be able to get some use out of it in a pinch.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Side, last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Front, last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Front, max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Front, strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Side</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle side in L-M-H order</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Front</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle front in L-M-H order (max excluded)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle between Strobe and SOS</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 4 seconds</td>
<td>Blink battery indicator to locate the flashlight in the dark</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold 6 seconds</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Hold 6 seconds</td>
<td>Front, low</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Loosening the tailcap a quarter turn provides a mechanical lockout, which I think is more reliable than the electronic one. It would be possible for the button to be held down if the light was in a bag under something, or a person was sitting on it. Since the light turns on in low, this won't burn or melt anything, but could run the battery down.</p>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The MR70 includes a holster, USB-OTG adapter, MicroUSB cable, spare O-rings, spare USB cover, manual, warranty card and 26650 battery. The holster is MOLLE compatible and has both velcro and a snap for the attachment loop. The top flap is velcro only.</p>
<p>https://imgur.com/C8eKFES.jpg
https://imgur.com/RMotuVp.jpg
https://imgur.com/Rd1Q9tg.jpg</p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>A Rofis branded unprotected 26650 battery is included. Advertised capacity is 5500 mAh, and following the theme here, it pretty much does what it says on the wrapper. Charge time was about 4 hours from a 1.8A power supply, and the fully charged voltage was 4.10. This is a little low, and may explain the runtimes being a bit short.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/D94cUbZ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/D94cUbZ.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The manual says not to use other battery types such as 18650. I tested with a Sony VTC6 unprotected flat-top 18650, a Sanyo NCR20700B and an Acebeam branded Sony VTC6 with protection circuit and button top. All worked without the use of a spacer, however there was a large drop in output in the highest mode before 30 seconds with the VTC6. Using a charger that's less conservative about its termination voltage made this stepdown take longer, so I'm concluding it's voltage-based.</p>
<p>The manual's warning shouldn't be ignored entirely as some 18650s aren't rated for the amount of power the max mode consumes. A rated continuous discharge current of 10A is a good idea for anyone wanting to use 18650s as spare batteries for the MR70.</p>
<p>My phone reported up to 1.4A output from the powerbank function, and I expect it could provide more to a more power-hungry device. There's enough energy in the 26650 to fully charge almost any smartphone.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests were conducted using the included Rofis 5500 mAh 26650 battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3.9 years</td>
<td>160µA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Side Low</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>21 days</td>
<td>10.6mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Side Med</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>92</td>
<td>11</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>36 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>18 hours</td>
<td>299mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Side High</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>245</td>
<td>15</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/rFOyueL.png">graph</a></td>
<td>640 minutes</td>
<td>3 minutes</td>
<td>536 minutes</td>
<td>563 minutes</td>
<td>1.03A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Front Low</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>38</td>
<td>29</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>120 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>96 hours</td>
<td>57mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Front Med</td>
<td>450</td>
<td>425</td>
<td>97</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/WdYjr4g.png">graph</a></td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>7.5 hours</td>
<td>7.5 hours</td>
<td>7.5 hours</td>
<td>692mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Front High</td>
<td>1500</td>
<td>1380</td>
<td>176</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>216 minutes</td>
<td>10 minutes</td>
<td>184 minutes</td>
<td>200 minutes</td>
<td>3.2A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Front Turbo</td>
<td>3500</td>
<td>3224</td>
<td>258</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/UB04Alg.png">graph</a></td>
<td>201 minutes</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>189 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Most of that turbo runtime is spent at 32% output. The high graph is missing due to a glitch. Sorry.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/9hZrjc5.png">Sony VTC6</a> 18650</li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Flashlight enthusiasts probably know what to expect here. A cool white XHP70.2 is always going to be ugly, no matter what. As expected, the hotspot is more or less white, the corona is horribly green and the spill is purple. It looks like a bruise, though the texturing of the reflector does a nice job smoothing out transitions between different parts of the beam. Color rendering looks very average for a cool white Cree emitter, which is to say cyan, orange, brown and red colors tend to be washed out and hard to distinguish.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/C4n7QqL.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/C4n7QqL.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The side emitter is a coppery ~3000K reminiscent of warm white LED-based screw-in bulbs that don't specify their CRI. It's pleasant on a white wall, but a bit flat elsewhere. The diffused beam is extremely floody, but usable for walking outdoors. It seems mainly intended for indoor lighting though, and is adequate for that.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/RPjQtDs.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/RPjQtDs.jpg"></a></p>
<p>There is no PWM on any mode with either emitter.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p>WB 5200K, automatic exposure for all beamshots.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/11MJYmR.jpg">Front</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/VRVyJbZ.jpg">side</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p>Front:</p>
<p>https://imgur.com/N8hPAIW.jpg
https://imgur.com/IZ0yDVv.jpg</p>
<p>Side:</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/pSgroaE.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/pSgroaE.jpg"></a></p>
<p>For comparison, my Wizard Pro with 90 CRI Nichia 144A (4500K), on a similar output level:</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/NQAFwB2.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/NQAFwB2.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics and build</h2>
<p>The MR70 is a nice size and shape for most hands. Texturing is adequate to maintain control of the light in normal use. It's relatively easy to find the large side switch by feel, as it's surrounded by a substantial flat area, and the diffuser on the opposite side can be used for indexing. Most people wouldn't want to carry a light this size in a pants pocket, but it's fine in a jacket pocket.</p>
<p>The MR70 tailstands very well, suitable for room illumination with either emitter. There's little to keep it from rolling on its side though.</p>
<p>Build quality is fine with no visible tool marks, smooth threads and reliable waterproofing as long as the USB flap is closed.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/WFDVrOQ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/WFDVrOQ.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I was unable to unscrew the bezel using two strap wrenches. I tried heating the light in case there was threadlocker, to no avail. I do plan to try again, but I'm already late with this review. Cree makes a very nice 4500K, 90 CRI XHP70, which I've previously used in the Acebeam L30. I think it would work great in the MR70's textured reflector, greatly improving color quality at the expense of some output and efficiency. As usual, a Nichia 219C is a direct replacement for the XP-G2 for a color quality upgrade without much impact on output.</p>Review: Astrolux K1, a high-CRI USB keychain light with red and UV2018-04-14T00:00:00+00:002018-04-14T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-04-14:/astrolux-k1.html<p>The Astrolux K1 is a keychain light with white, UV and red emitters, an integrated Li-ion battery and USB charging. There's a choice of a cool white Cree XP-G3 or neutral white 90 CRI Nichia 219C and a variety of body colors. It's prone to activation in the pocket, and quality could be better. It does have a lot of features for the price though.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-K1-XP-G3365nm-UVRed-LED-350LM-New-Driver-USB-Stainless-Steel-Mini-LED-Keychain-p-1234869.html?utm_source=bbs&utm_medium=zak&utm_content=chendongling&cur_warehouse=CN">Astrolux K1</a> was provided by Banggood for review.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/hgxMd</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Astrolux K1 is a keychain light with white, UV and red emitters, an integrated Li-ion battery and USB charging. There's a choice of a cool white Cree XP-G3 or neutral white 90 CRI Nichia 219C and a variety of body colors. This is the Nichia 219C version with a black body. A previous version of this light had issues with its driver and poor mode spacing. This version has a revised driver.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/bVa7Wxr.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/bVa7Wxr.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I usually carry lights with pocket clips and keep my keychain minimal, but I've kept the K01 on my keychain for the past two weeks and was surprised to find its size not much of a bother. For those used to carrying more on their keychains, the K1 should fit right in.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/oul513P.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/oul513P.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The user interface consists of two buttons. The forward, square button controls the UV and red emitters. A long-press turns on and off while a short press switches emtiters. The rear, triangular button control the white emitter. A long-press turns it on in low, or off from any mode. A double-click from on or off jumps straight to high. A short press changes modes, but the order depends on whether there has been a double-click. If not, it's L->H. If so, it's H->L. If there has not been a double-click, strobe is included in the rotation after high. The buttons are proud, and despite being a little stiff, the light has turned on in my pocket a couple times.</p>
<p>The internal battery charges from MicroUSB in under 2 hours and the light can be operated while charging. The battery is a Li-ion pouch cell and is connected with leads soldered to the charging board, making the light effectively disposable when the battery wears out for all but advanced users.</p>
<p>While the Nichia emitter has the usual excellent color vividness and accuracy with a reasonably nice ~5000K tint, there's some yellow in the hotspot, surrounded by cooler white, which fades to a more neutral spill. This is probably the worst looking beam pattern on a white wall I've seen with a 219C. It's not as much of a problem outdoors, but it's still noticeable. There is PWM detectable with an electronic rolling shutter on every mode but high, however it's fast enough not to be visible to my eyes. I tested 240 lumens, which is a little below advertised, but perfectly reasonable for this type of light. The lowest mode is 10 lumens, suggesting Astrolux intends users to use the red light if they're concerned about preserving night vision. The UV light has a significant visible component, but is effective at showing security features in a Euro banknote.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/TtAtVbo.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/TtAtVbo.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/vItrD1J.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/vItrD1J.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Runtime on max is 41 minutes with nearly stable output as the battery drains. I like the stable output, but this is well short of the advertised 65 minutes.</p>
<p>Finally, the light isn't very well constructed. The metal shell screws into a plastic frame. The LED is mounted to a circuit board that does not appear to have a metal core. The bezel serves as a heat sink, and the thermal path to it from the afforementioned PCB is some white paste. The parts don't align very well and there's no real attempt to seal the enclosure against dust or water. I do not believe the claim of IP65, which indicates the light should survive exposure to water jets.</p>
<p>I wanted to like the K1, but the unattractive beam pattern, awkward user interface and poor build quality add up to a light I just can't recommend over competition like the Nitecore TIP CRI. I'd make an exception for a user who demands both white and UV in a very compact light.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Nice tint</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>90+ CRI</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Fairly stable output as the battery drains in all modes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Charges quickly</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Can operate while plugged in without draining battery</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Ugly beam pattern</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Awkward user interface</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Strobe in the main mode rotation</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Runtimes well short of advertised</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Poorly constructed</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Bad thermal path</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Significant visible light from the UV emitter</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>No accessories are included with the K1.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The two buttons operate entirely independently, controlling the UV/red emitters together and the white separately. Both can be on at the same time.</p>
<p>The square button controls the UV and red emitters:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>UV</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>UV</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>red</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>red</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>UV</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The triangular button controls the white emitter:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>high</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On, without having double-clicked</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>cycle modes L->H, plus strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On, after having double-clicked</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>cycle modes H->L, without strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Mode | Advertised Lumens | Estimated Lumens | Throw (FL1 meters) | Graph | Advertised Runtime| Time to 80% | Time to 50% | Time to 10%
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
Low | 10 | 6 | 11 | - | 18 hours | - | - | -
Mid | 100 | 47 | 33 | <a href="https://imgur.com/CEw8aCD.png">graph</a> | 3.2 hours | 2.9 hours | 2.9 hours | 3.6 hours
High | 220 | 192 | 66 | <a href="https://imgur.com/cs2lDRj.png">graph</a> | 88 min | 52 min | 52 min | 52 min
Turbo | 300 | 240 | 73| <a href="https://imgur.com/QtzcvJx.png">graph</a> | 65 min | 41 min | 41 min | 41 min</p>
<p>The relatively stable output during discharge suggests a linear driver. </p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>A 5000K 219C usually produces a nice beam, but not here. There's a yellow area at the middle of the hotspot, surrounded by much cooler tint. The outer spill looks more like what I'd normally expect from this emitter. A textured reflector would likely solve this.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/ADhgrMN.jpg - it looks worse in reality</li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/xuBsadl.jpg">vs BLF 348</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/Ecyv4sd.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/wV9TrUp.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The battery is an internal 500 mAh Li-ion pouch cell. It is soldered in place.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>While it is not difficult to disassemble the K1 using a T5 Torx driver, there's not much to be done inside it. Some well-placed heat-conducting putty might improve the thermal path, but I'm not sure there's much point when the LED is mounted to a non-metallic board. It might be possible to change the optic and improve the beam pattern, or add some diffusion film to the glass lens.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/Cvcs9ux.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/J54zAZC.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/o6YI6uK.jpg</li>
</ul>Review: Klarus XT12S, a multipurpose2018-03-22T00:00:00+00:002018-03-22T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2018-03-22:/klarus-xt12s.html<p>The XT12S is a mid-size duty/utility type flashlight with magnetic charging and dual tail switches using a single 18650 battery. It offers shortcuts from off to high and low (or strobe). Its output falls well short of the advertised 1600 lumens, some modes have visible flickering and audible noise, and my sample was not waterproof. The concept isn't bad, but the execution could use some work.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.flashlightz.com/klarus-xt12s-1600-lumens">Klarus XT12S</a> was provided by Flashlightz.com for review.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/a/eYEeE">High-res</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/a/Z1W81">Low-res</a> (plus graphs)</li>
</ul>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The XT12S is the newest member of the duty-oriented Klarus XT series. As the various models of this series have some overlap, the key points that set the XT12S apart from the others are relatively long throw with compact size, and magnetic charging rather than MicroUSB. For those unfamiliar with the series, Klarus XT lights have dual tailswitches that offer direct access to maximum output, and the user's choice of strobe or low. The XT12S is a relatively compact 1x18650 light that's small enough to go in a pocket in a pinch, but advertises 402m FL1 throw.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/DRikUXM.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/DRikUXM.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/zasZv6U.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/zasZv6U.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The UI, magnetic charging and relatively compact size of the XT12S are convenient, though it's possible to press both buttons at once under stress and get an unwanted result. Build quality is reasonably solid, though I did have some issues with the waterproofing. Throw tested as advertised, but output fell well short - closer to 1000 lumens than 1600. Output is stable if the light is kept cool using a Sony VTC6, but it declines as the battery drains with the included battery. The grip ring was very loose on my sample and could spin freely with the tailcap tight, which felt awkward. Prolonged immersion in water resulted in moisture appearing on the inside of the lens after use, which was caused by a broken o-ring between glued sections of the light users aren't meant to disassemble. Modes other than max have severe visible PWM and audible coil whine.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/XA3q1ma.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/XA3q1ma.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/9F4gzUy.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/9F4gzUy.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Overall, I quite like the feature set of the XT12S. I'd be content forgiving its below-advertised output since 1000 lumens is a decent amount of light for this style of flashlight. It's the PWM that kills it for me. Anything moving gets the stop-motion effect of a high-frequency strobe. Cameras with rolling shutters, like smartphones and some police body cameras record scanlines. PWM does not belong on a production light in this class at this price point. PWM slow enough to be easily visible to the naked eye does not belong on any flashlight in 2018.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/uMoFrtN.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/uMoFrtN.jpg"></a></p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Compact size</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Long throw for the size</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Convenient user interface</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Useful general-purpose beam pattern</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Magnetic charging is fast and convenient</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Tripod mount</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<p>- Low CRI</p>
</li>
<li>- Output not as advertised</li>
<li>- Severe visible PWM</li>
<li>- Audible coil whine</li>
<li>- Build quality issues</li>
<li>- Unpredictable stepdowns and output changes</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The XT12S includes a battery, charging cable, holster, lanyard, spare O-ring, grip ring, pocket clip and user manual.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Z6oXPnx.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Z6oXPnx.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The hallmark of the XT series is its dual tailswitch interface with a main switch that always starts in high, and a secondary switch that always starts in low, or at the user's option, strobe. Both offer momentary. The "tactical" group with strobe offers three steady modes and a H->L mode order, while the "outdoor" group without strobe has four steady modes and a L->H mode order. A potential downside for the high-stress use cases Klarus seems to be targeting is that it's possible to hit both buttons by mistake, and if the secondary button is pressed after the primary, the light switches to medium or low depending on the group selected.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/K61Aq16.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/K61Aq16.jpg"></a></p>
<p>To change groups, hold down the secondary switch until the indicator light on the charging contacts starts blinking red and green, then press the primary switch. Here is the UI for each group:</p>
<p>Tactical group:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Main switch</td>
<td>High (half-press for momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Secondary switch</td>
<td>Strobe (momentary if less than about 2 seconds)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe (from off with secondary)</td>
<td>Main switch</td>
<td>Max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe (from off with secondary)</td>
<td>Short-press secondary</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press secondary</td>
<td>Cycle modes H->L (3 modes)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold secondary 1-3 seconds</td>
<td>Strobe; max after release</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold secondary > 3 seconds</td>
<td>Strobe; press again for max</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Outdoor group:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Main switch</td>
<td>Max (half-press for momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Secondary switch</td>
<td>Low (momentary if less than about 2 seconds)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (from secondary)</td>
<td>Main switch</td>
<td>Max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Secondary switch</td>
<td>Cycle modes L->H (4 modes)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (from primary)</td>
<td>Hold secondary > 4 seconds</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Clearly, Klarus thinks "tactical" demands heavy use of strobe. I'm not convinced of its value and strongly prefer the outdoor group.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Tests performed using the included Klarus 3600 mAh battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<p>Mode | Advertised Lumens | Estimated Lumens | Throw (FL1 meters) | Graph | Advertised Runtime| Time to 80% | Time to 50% | Time to 10%
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
Low | 10 | 18 | 34 | - | 200 hours | - | - | -
Medium | 100 | 90 | 91 | <a href="https://imgur.com/3FhNnum.png">graph</a> | 14 hours | 7 hours | 7 hours | 13 hours
High | 400 | 393 | 201 | <a href="https://imgur.com/EBPw2vc.png">graph</a> | 4 hours | 62 min | 62 min | 186 min
Turbo | 1600 | 1090 | 394 | <a href="https://imgur.com/IY1eHAk.png">graph</a> | 1.2 hours | 16 min | 35 min | 53 min
Turbo (VTC6) | 1600 | 1090 | 394 | <a href="https://imgur.com/P2Fxsbh.png">graph</a> | 1.2 hours | 39 min | 48 min | 58 min</p>
<p>Output falls well short of the claimed 1600 lumens. Between two different test setups, I measured 1090 and 990. The latter was with my usual testing arrangement. These numbers pass a visual sanity check too; it doesn't look like more output than I'm used to seeing from 1000 lumen lights. Based on my prior review of the XT2CR, I wasn't surprised by the low output, however this light does seem to have improved driver performance over that one, as the runtime graphs illustrate. I suspect the emitter is part of the problem, which I'll cover more at the end of the review.</p>
<p>Sometimes output drops by about 200 lumens without explanation. This seems to be related to the light attempting to detect an inadequate battery and reduce output to prevent damage. Any of the connections being loose increases the probability of seeing this behavior, as do shorter batteries. Cycling through modes also seems likely to produce a drop in output. Sometimes it occurs about a second after turning on. There is also sensor-based thermal regulation, and sometimes the light appears to hunt for a stable level, increasing and decreasing by small amounts. Oddly, this behavior is sometimes visible when the light does not feel hot.</p>
<p>Having a boost driver, and relatively modest output, I would expect essentially stable output from the XT12S for most of the runtime if kept cool, but that is not what I graphed using the battery it comes with. Using a Sony VTC6, I do get stable output until the battery is low. Fortunately, unlike the XT2CR, the XT12S does have a proper low-voltage shutoff and is safe to use with unprotected 18650s.</p>
<p>Advertised throw is 402m by the FL1 standard, and my testing is close enough that number. FL1 throw standards are generous, and while large objects can be detected on a clear night at that distance, for clear vision, about half that number is more realistic. The XT12S is, indeed quite usable at 200m.</p>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/c2zOxwm.png">Max uncooled Klarus battery</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/mXeJbIe.png">Max fan-cooled Klarus battery</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/c2EbfJE.png">Max fan-cooled VTC6 after emitter swap</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/VBqV4sr.png">Max water-cooled VTC6 after emitter swap</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The beam is a cool white color temperature, around 6000K with no significant off-colors and relatively even tint across the beam. Color accuracy looks average for an LED flashlight. While I think that average is in dire need of improvement, most of the market seems to be OK with it. The bigger problem with the beam is that there is <strong>visible</strong> flickering from PWM or ripple in every mode other than max. The modes with PWM also have audible coil whine.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/fJdX6Z2.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/fJdX6Z2.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/9eyWpON.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/9eyWpON.jpg"></a></p>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/fcHzx1n.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/fcHzx1n.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>Unlike larger members of the XT series, I consider the XT12S pocketable in a pinch. It's a bit wide for everyday carry in a pants pocket, but it doesn't seriously impede movement when placed there briefly. It's a nice size for a jacket pocket and provides a substantial increase in throw over a typical EDC light with only a moderate increase in width at the head.</p>
<p>Both buttons are easy to press with a thumb when calm and deliberate, however incorrect button application is possible under stress in a hurry. Pressing both buttons can result in low when high was desired, or the inverse. The grip ring, intended to support a cigar grip is limited by the fact that it spins and moves back and forth. Furthermore, with two tail switches, neither of which is very proud, I found the cigar grip doesn't work as well with the XT12S as it does with other lights. I find the XT12S more comfortable for general use without the ring, which is easily removed. It does help with a hammer grip wearing gloves.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/0F0EttJ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/0F0EttJ.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The XT12S uses one standard 18650 battery. The included battery is a Klarus branded "3600 mAh" 18650. It tested at 3443 on my Opus BT-C3100, which is consistent with the performance expected from a Panasonic NCR18650G. Unfortunately, that cell never gained much popularity, probably due to its <a href="http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Keeppower%2018650%203600mAh%20%28Black%29%202014%20UK.html">significant voltage sag</a>. It cannot sustain stable output in this light on max, and is therefore not an optimal choice.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/W794Zim.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/W794Zim.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Fortunately, the XT12S is not picky about batteries. All 18650s I tried, flat and button top, protected and unprotected worked. The light can also use two CR123 primaries with reduced output, which was not tested. There is low-voltage protection at 2.65V, so use of unprotected cells is low-risk.</p>
<p>The charger is the proprietary Klarus magnetic system found on some other XT series lights. Unfortunately, it doesn't include the combination adapter and rechargeable keychain light that the XT12GT comes with. I like magnetic charging because it's more convenient, durable and waterproof than a MicroUSB port.</p>
<p>The charging contacts on the light are not live; I could measure no voltage nor current from them. The light will operate on the two lowest modes during charging, and will reduce output if the charger is connected while it's in a higher mode. Charging takes about four hours from empty, and I measure 4.19V on a freshly charged battery. The charging cable does not protect against short circuits and I was able to trip protection on some power supplies measuring current with a multimeter.</p>
<h2>Construction, disassembly and modification potential</h2>
<p>The XT12S initially appears to be well-machined, with no visible tool marks and smooth, precise threads. After some testing, problems become more apparent. The first issue is that the grip ring moves around. I'm told this is normal, but after disassembly it appears to me that it need not be, and more precise machining would eliminate the issue.</p>
<p>A more severe issue is that during runtime testing, I noticed signs of water ingress. It was never a large amount of water, but enough to fog up the lens as the light cooled after use.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/y8caHw0.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/y8caHw0.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ZmzAovB.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ZmzAovB.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The bezel screws off easily for replacement with an optional DNA catcher, but this does not provide access to any components.</p>
<p>Actual disassembly is difficult, as the body tube and the two sections of the head have a large amount of very strong glue on them. Strap wrenches and boiling water were not sufficient, and I ended up baking the light in the oven at around 150C for 10 minutes to weaken the glue.</p>
<p>Once disassembled, the cause of both problems was clear. The waterproofing was the fault of a broken o-ring between the two halves of the head. This is an especially problematic location for such a problem since the user is not intended to access it. The loose ring is caused by the inner body tube being longer than the outer. It can be adjusted by loosening the head, however this sometimes leads to brightness fluctuations.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/1Zrs8fR.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/1Zrs8fR.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The driver is held in place by the body tube and feels loose with it removed, however I couldn't see how to access the leads to the charging contacts and could not remove it easily without risking damage. I would be tempted to try adding a capacitor to reduce the visible PWM if I could access it easily, as I would actually enjoy using this light if it did not have that issue.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/9RBDaE3.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/9RBDaE3.jpg"></a></p>
<p>At this point, the emitter and MCPCB are easy to access. While oddly shaped, the MCPCB is thick enough and made of copper with adequate thermal paste under it. Since neither cool white nor low CRI are my favorite things, I obtained a 4500K 3-step Easywhite XHP35 HI (xhp35a-h0-0000-0d0hc445e) in 80 CRI from <a href="https://www.arrow.com/en/products/xhp35a-h0-0000-0d0hc445e/cree">Arrow</a>. A C4 flux bin is two levels below the D4 of the original, so I expected a 15% loss of output.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/9RBDaE3.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/9RBDaE3.jpg"></a></p>
<p>A 15% loss of output is not what I got though. Instead, output increased to 1200 lumens. I'm forced to conclude something wasn't right with the original emitter. The random output glitches have not, however improved.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/NWLo3e4.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/NWLo3e4.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The light produced by the upgraded emitter is pleasant, with no significant red or green tint deviation and noticeably improved color quality. This is a win all around and will be my go-to swap for XHP35 lights in the future. With the emitter upgrade, this light would be a keeper if I could just get rid of that PWM.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ggvcym7.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ggvcym7.jpg"></a></p>Review: Acebeam L30, a 20700/18650/CR123 tactical light with very high output2017-12-07T00:00:00+00:002017-12-07T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-12-07:/acebeam-l30.html<p>Acebeam says the L30 is "like a side-arm that takes shotgun shells". That's been done and isn't a great idea, but the L30 is. The high-only tailswitch with all other functions on the side switch is what I would consider an optimal UI for a duty type light. Output is around 4000 lumens until heat limits it to 2000.</p><p>This <a href="https://acebeam.com/l30">Acebeam L30</a> was provided by Acebeam for review.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/oN0k0</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>Update: a new version, the L30 II is now available; it has a 21700 battery with more capacity.</p>
<p>The Acebeam L30 is a duty-type flashlight suitable for weapon mounting using the new 20700 battery, USB charging (it can also use some 18650s or two CR123s) and Cree XHP70.2 emitter. Cool and neutral white tints are available. With an output of 4000 lumens, it is the most powerful light of this type by a considerable margin. Acebeam says the L30 is "like a side-arm that takes shotgun shells". That has <a href="https://www.taurususa.com/product-details.cfm?id=199&category=Revolver&toggle=tr&breadcrumbseries=JDG">been</a> <a href="https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-governor-0">done</a> and isn't usually regarded as a good idea by the firearms community. Let's find out if the L30 is a better idea.</p>
<p>https://i.imgur.com/I75blla.jpg</p>
<p>The L30 is designed for use as a duty light for first responders, a long-gun mounted light, and a general utility light. It's a versatile light suitable for a wide range of situations. It's good for wearing on a belt holster, attaching to a backpack, keeping in a vehicle or storage indoors. It's too large for casual everyday carry for most people and is quite uncomfortable in a pants pocket, but OK in a jacket. Extended use on maximum output isn't practical due to heat, but 2000 lumens is possible for a long time without the body growing uncomfortably hot. 1000 lumens is sustainable for the whole battery life in warm, still air.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Xeh5Fdb.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Xeh5Fdb.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/a7jRdtq.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/a7jRdtq.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The L30 keeps the user interface of the L16, which I <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/6qzsj1/review_acebeam_l16/">reviewed</a> a few months ago. The L-series UI works like two lights in one, with an e-switch UI on the side switch that has shortcuts to low, high and last-used with a single click for on/off. The tailswitch is a forward-clicky (half-press for momentary) that always produces maximum output. I love this solution for combining tactical and utility use cases in one light and hope that Acebeam expands this lineup. I'd love an EDC-sized version with the warm-white XP-L HI used in the special edition EC35s, but I digress. Modes are fairly well-spaced and useful, but I'd like to see one more added between 1 and 200 lumens; 30-50 sounds about right.</p>
<p>Build quality is typical Acebeam, which is to say excellent. The machining is precise and free of tool marks and sharp edges. The lens and MCPCB are extra thick. Solder joints are very solid. The springs are stiff. Waterproofing is perfect. The one issue is that the rubber cover for the USB port comes open fairly easily when placing the light in the included holster, which severely compromises waterproofing.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/v8GQo91.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/v8GQo91.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The light the L30 emits is a mixed bag. New-generation Cree emitters are famous for badly uneven tint across the beam, and the XHP70.2 is no exception. The cool white version is around 6000K, which I find washes out colors, hurting my ability to recognize objects quickly. A neutral white 5000K is available, and if it's anything like the 5000K XHP70.2 in my Haikelite MT07S (<a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/7gii7q/review_haikelite_mt07s_4x18650_xhp702_4490lm_620m/">review</a>) than it's quite acceptable, though the rainbow is still there. The best part of the light produced by the L30 is, of course the fact that there's <strong>a lot</strong> of it. This is the highest output 1x18650 flashlight by FL1 standards currently available. I imagine some readers are already saying "but what about the Emisar D4?". Well, the XP-L HI version of that may power on at 4300 lumens, but it's down to about 3000 at 30 seconds while the L30 is making 3900. No other production light with a 1" body tube comes close to this level of output.</p>
<p>During testing, I accidentally immersed my L30 in water with the flap open. The light went out shortly after. I recommend significant caution with regard to exposing an L30 to water. I would have rated this as a less significant issue before experiencing it, but it's a very real concern, especially since the flap is easily pulled open by the holster. Warming the head with the lens, reflector, USB flap and battery tube removed eventually got it to work again.</p>
<p>So is the L30 a better idea than a revolver that uses .410 shotshells? Yes, absolutely. Is it a good choice for you? That depends on you. Occasional users might be better served by something smaller like the EC35. Heavy users will be better served by something larger like the K30. For those with more varied use cases, those who prefer USB charging and those who want a huge amount of output mounted on a long gun, the L30 is a great solution.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>High output - best in class as of this writing</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Good output stability as the battery drains</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>20700 battery compatibility with a 1" diameter body tube</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent user interface for both general and tactical use (without configuration)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Very good machining and build quality</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Light can operate from USB without a battery (up to 1000lm)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Tint rainbow typical of the XHP70.2 emitter</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>USB flap can open when holstering and completely defeat the waterproofing</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Thermal regulation eventually allows the body to get uncomfortably hot in 2000 lumen mode</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Requires a spacer to use unprotected 18650 batteries, which is not included</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The L30 ships with a pocket clip, holster, 18650 sleeve, lanyard, spare o-rings, spare switch boot, protected 20700 battery and USB cable. The holster is different from the one that ships with the L16, and in my opinion not quite as nice. The two lights fit comfortably in each others' holsters.</p>
<p>https://i.imgur.com/bz48Gwm.jpg</p>
<p>https://i.imgur.com/VBASYLX.jpg</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>Using the side switch, the UI is as follows:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>last-used</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>firefly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle L->M->H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Very-long-press</td>
<td>lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Very-long-press</td>
<td>firefly</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised runtimes are based on the included 20700 battery. This battery was used for all tests unless otherwise noted.</p>
<p>I was unable to take some of the measurements I usually do because of the water damage.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.7 years</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>6</td>
<td>59 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>42 days</td>
<td>4.17</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>210</td>
<td>95</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 hours</td>
<td>355</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>1000</td>
<td>1036</td>
<td>211</td>
<td><a href="https://i.imgur.com/7DPLTWS.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2.5 hours</td>
<td>2.2 hours</td>
<td>2.2 hours</td>
<td>2.2 hours</td>
<td>1930</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>2000</td>
<td>1948</td>
<td>290</td>
<td><a href="https://i.imgur.com/me3L1tc.png">graph</a></td>
<td>1.1 hours</td>
<td>1 hour</td>
<td>1 hour</td>
<td>1 hour</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo (water-cooled)</td>
<td>4000</td>
<td>3900</td>
<td>410</td>
<td><a href="https://i.imgur.com/AUUFtIg.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2 minutes + 1 hour</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>23 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo (fan-cooled)</td>
<td>4000</td>
<td>3900</td>
<td>410</td>
<td><a href="https://i.imgur.com/XoyBrhJ.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2 minutes + 1 hour</td>
<td>5 minutes</td>
<td>6 minutes</td>
<td>49 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo (ice water, 3100 mAh battery)</td>
<td>4000</td>
<td>3900</td>
<td>410</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/YteegD1">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>11 minutes</td>
<td>11 minutes</td>
<td>11 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>I should note that fan-cooled results in a drop to just under 50% which eventually recovers to just over 50%. Were I to bend the rules just slightly, time to 50% would be 49 minutes.</p>
<p>There is low-voltage protection, which triggers at about 2.8V after a few minutes of blinking warning. The warning period is shorter on higher modes and was absent on turbo with the included battery. I believe the battery's protection tripped before the light's warning triggered, so it probably requires the low voltage to be detected for a certain amount of time.</p>
<p>I tested output on a low battery (3.4V) and got about 3200 lumens at power-on and over 3100 at 30 seconds. The driver either intentionally restricts output or cannot provide full current when the battery is low. This output is <strong>still</strong> higher than any reasonably comparable light.</p>
<p>The L30 is the first light I've tested for which immersion in room temperature water is insufficient to prevent a thermal stepdown. In order to test whether the stepdown observed was timed, voltage-based or thermal, I tested the light immersed in ice water. It's definitely thermal.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Cree emitters have never been my favorite for light quality, and lately they've taken a significant turn for the worse. The current generation, of which the XHP70.2 is a member has a problem with uneven tint across the beam nearly resembling a rainbow. There are purple and yellow blotches at the center of the hotspot, a green corona and a purple spill. The beam pattern somewhat resembles a bruise.</p>
<p>Color rendering looks to be average, and maukka's test results from the K30 support that. In cool white, average color rendering means that skin tones and much of the natural world looks washed out, and it's difficult to distinguish similar colors if they're shades of brown, orange or red. Neutral white should be better at this, but I don't expect a significant improvement to the tint rainbow.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://i.imgur.com/0p1Fnrt.jpg</li>
<li>https://i.imgur.com/ChUlIPU.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://i.imgur.com/NcLGrvb.jpg">L30</a></li>
<li>Comparison: <a href="https://i.imgur.com/IRQ30nC.jpg">Klarus G30</a></li>
<li>
<p>Comparison: <a href="https://i.imgur.com/Rtbu75T.jpg">Haikelite MT07S</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/uOY6R9p.jpg">L30</a></p>
</li>
<li>Comparison: <a href="https://i.imgur.com/Y9JPlo4.jpg">Acebeam L16</a> (warm white swap)</li>
<li>Comparison: <a href="https://i.imgur.com/ekcgh9Z.jpg">Klarus XT2CR</a> (XHP35 HI swap)</li>
<li>Comparison: <a href="https://i.imgur.com/oZVurxt.jpg">Haikelite MT07S</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The L30 has a 1" diameter body tube with a removable grip ring. Most hand sizes should be able to hold it comfortably and securely in a variety of grips. There's moderate texturing to improve the user's grip, but not so much as to be annoying. The tailswitch is proud and easy to operate even wearing gloves, but the side switch is flush and can be a bit hard to find by feel.</p>
<p>https://i.imgur.com/79CxcJq.jpg</p>
<p>Am I doing "tactical" right?</p>
<p>Compared to other lights:</p>
<p>https://i.imgur.com/SEP148L.jpg</p>
<p>Klarus G30, Klarus XT2CR, Acebeam L30, Acebeam L16, Haikelite MT07S</p>
<h2>Batteries and charging</h2>
<p>The L30 is the first production flashlight I know of designed for the 20700 battery. As the name suggests, it's 2mm wider and 5mm longer than an 18650. Acebeam adds a protection circuit, resulting in a total length of nearly 75mm. An aluminum sleeve is included to prevent 18650 batteries from rattling, but it does not do anything for length. 18650s without protection circuits are not long enough to make contact without an additional spacer. Advertised capacity is 4250 mAh. I got 4066 on my Opus BT-C100. The battery is so long, it does not fit in the BT-C3100 and may have issues with other chargers.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://i.imgur.com/j0ymhlm.jpg</li>
<li>https://i.imgur.com/Jl4Qr6G.jpg</li>
<li>https://i.imgur.com/R3bXP3S.jpg</li>
<li>https://i.imgur.com/H3gC7zq.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>Unsurprisingly, the current draw to produce 4000 lumens from a single cell is significant. Most protected cells cannot handle the L30's highest mode and will trip immediately. My only protected 18650 that works is the 3100 mAh Acebeam that came with my L16. The cell inside is believed to be a Sony VTC6. With the addition of a rare earth magnet to act as a spacer, the L30 will run on shorter 18650s. Any Li-ion battery that makes contact can be charged internally. Charging the 20700 with a 1.8A USB power supply took about 2.5 hours, and I suspect the intended charging current is 2.0A.</p>
<p>The L30 is advertised as compatible with CR123A disposable batteries, however output is restricted to 1500 lumens. This was not tested.</p>
<p>The L30 can operate from USB power without a battery installed. Modes up to 1000 lumens worked from my 1.8A USB power supply, but the light flashed and shut off at 2000 and 4000 lumens. If mode memory is set to 2000 lumens, it is necessary to start the light with the shortcut to moonlight, then ramp up to the desired mode.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The bezel unscrews easily providing access to the MCPCB and emitter. I anticipate no difficulties replacing it with any other XHP70 on the same MCPCB. On a different MCPCB, an XHP50 or 6 volt Nichia 144A might work, though the most common MCPCBs for the 144A are 16mm, which would require the use of flat leads to avoid lifting up the reflector and ruining the focus. A quad Nichia E21A is also a possibility.</p>
<p>The driver is a bit hard to access, as the two screws holding it in don't want to cooperate with my drivers.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Yfz8fj1.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Yfz8fj1.jpg"></a></p>Review: Haikelite MT07S, a high-output light with 620m throw2017-11-30T00:00:00+00:002017-11-30T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-11-30:/haikelite-mt07s.html<p>The MT07S is a moderately throwy, 4x18650 high-output light to compete with the likes of the Nitecore TM16, Fenix TK75 and Acebeam K60, but at a much lower price. This is a light to bring to situations where a lot of light is required, or where light may be needed for a long period of time.</p><p>This <a href="https://goo.gl/DL7YQN">Haikelite MT07S</a> was provided by /u/swiling of Banggood for review. Use coupon code 138f0b for 28% off the MT07S - a price of $57.56 at the time of this writing.</p>
<p>I want to note that my package was <a href="https://imgur.com/09ow5A9.jpg">labeled "test"</a>.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/Vofui</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The MT07S is a moderately throwy, 4x18650 high-output light to compete with the likes of the Nitecore TM16, Fenix TK75 and Acebeam K60, but at a much lower price. This is a light to bring to situations where a lot of light is required, or where light may be needed for a long period of time. The size and weight preclude casual carry with the possible exception of a larger backpack, but the MT07S would be at home in a vehicle or stored next to a door. There's a tripod mount, making it convenient for photographers or those seeking to improvise a vehicle mount.</p>
<p>Left to right: Haikelite HT35, Haikelite MT07S, Klarus G30, Jetbeam T6, Acebeam K70</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/1aJYFKY.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/1aJYFKY.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Advertised performance is 5000 lumens and 500m throw with stable output as the batteries drain. My tested output is 4300 lumens and FIXME throw. It appears Haikelite forgot their usual disclaimer about neutral white having a little less output as their rep on BLF said NW should be 4500 lumens. This is still very competitive performance. Throw is substantially more than claimed, which is no surprise given the deep, smooth reflector. There's thermal regulation, but it's fairly mild and the light will maintain over 3000 lumens uncooled. With fan cooling, output is, indeed stable on all modes.</p>
<p>The hotspot is large and the spill is bright, though narrower than average due to the reflector depth versus width. Tint consistency across the beam is fairly bad, one of my few serious complaints about this light, however color quality seems good. Compared side by side to a 5000K MT-G2 known to be about 70 CRI and a Nichia 219C known to be over 80 CRI, color differentiation is similar to the Nichia and noticeably better than the MT-G2. Testing maukka did on another neutral white XHP70.2 light came up with 70 CRI, so it's not clear to me whether this is a higher-CRI emitter or just a mistaken perception on my part. This is a good all-around beam for more open outdoor spaces, but the tint rainbow is noticeable and a distinct disadvantage.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/YycW3BU.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/YycW3BU.jpg"></a></p>
<p>There are six steady modes. The lowest and highest are accessable only by shortcuts with four modes in the main sequence, cycled by holding down the button from on. A short press is always on/off and there's an electronic lockout as well as a mechanical one. Standby drain is high with about a year of standby, so the mechanical lockout should be used for longer-term storage. My only user interface complaint is that there's no way to get to a lower main-sequence mode without cycling past higher ones, though moonlight is accessable from off. Most of the modes are well-spaced, though the top two main sequence modes are a bit close together.</p>
<p>The MT07S is the third Haikelite I've reviewed and easily my favorite of the three. The level of performance and build quality at this price point is nothing short of spectacular.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Stable output as the batteries drain</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Good color rendering given that CRI is unspecified</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Shortcuts from off to high, low and last-used</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Strobe mode unlikely to be activated by mistake</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Throw exceeds spec</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Not picky about battery size</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Tint rainbow</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Thermal regulation allows the light to get quite hot</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excessive standby current</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Mode change is a bit sluggish</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The MT07S includes a plug/loop for the tripod mount, lanyard, spare O-rings and <a href="https://imgur.com/x695Ss0.jpg">manual</a> - a glossy one this time instead of a photocopy.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/rEKdNEj.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/rEKdNEj.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Last-used (excluding moonlight, max, strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any (excluding max, strobe)</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>max</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max, strobe</td>
<td>click</td>
<td>last-used (<strong>including</strong> off, but excluding strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>cycle modes (excluding moonlight, max, strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>moonlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Moonlight</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>disable thermal regulation</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>click -> hold</td>
<td>lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>click -> hold</td>
<td>last-used</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>I was a bit confused by the max -> last-used behavior until I realized that the MT07S treats off as just another mode, so if it had been off, it returns to off. I don't recommend disabling thermal regulation or using the electronic lockout; loosening the head for a mechanical lockout is more reliable and has zero standby drain. If thermal regulation is disabled, removing the tailcap or loosening the head will turn it back on.</p>
<p>The long-presses are a bit longer than I'd prefer, which is evident comparing back to back with, say, an Acebeam L16 or Armytek Wizard.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Advertised runtimes are with unspecified batteries, though 3500 mAh would be a reasonable assumption. Runtime estimates are based on 3000 mAh batteries. All tests were performed with Sony VTC6 3000 mAh batteries.</p>
<p>Listed outputs are for the cool white model. I noticed a Haikelite rep on BLF saying that neutral white max output is 4500 lumens, which is consistent with my results.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1.1 years</td>
<td>357 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Moonlight</td>
<td>2</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>45 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>16 days</td>
<td>7.9</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>200</td>
<td>238</td>
<td>143</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>30 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>27 hours</td>
<td>111</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium 1</td>
<td>550</td>
<td>640</td>
<td>234</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>11 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9.8 hours</td>
<td>305</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium 2</td>
<td>1300</td>
<td>1649</td>
<td>376</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>270 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3 hours</td>
<td>1000</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>2300</td>
<td>2180</td>
<td>432</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/VQLqoKF.png">graph</a></td>
<td>150 minutes</td>
<td>121 minutes</td>
<td>121 minutes</td>
<td>121 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>5000</td>
<td>4490</td>
<td>620</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/D1Gt4Mk.png">graph</a></td>
<td>90 minutes</td>
<td>54 minutes</td>
<td>54 minutes</td>
<td>54 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/syJOUDc.png">High uncooled</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/HOUds5Z.png">Max uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Uncooled max times are: 80%: 7.6 minutes, 50/10%: 76 minutes. Output stays at around 75% after the thermal stepdown and actually increases for a while over the runtime.</p>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>The tint of my sample is nominally 5000K (cool white also available), and portions of the hotspot are a fairly pure white tint. The center is more yellow. The corona is greenish and the outer spill is noticeably purple. In other words, this is very obviously a new-generation Cree. The rainbow effect is bad enough to be distracting outdoors.</p>
<p>Color rendering, on the other hand appears surprisingly good to my eyes. Compared back to back with 80 CRI 219Cs, the MT07S looks about as good.</p>
<p>The hotspot is similar in size to a more throwy EDC-type light, but much more intense. The corona is large and bright, while the spill is narrower and brighter than a typical thrower. Overall, it's a useful general-purpose beam.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/sF5m2d7.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/dKhvnNT.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/T8Yj2Q6.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/YycW3BU.jpg</li>
</ul>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The body is fairly large in diameter, widening toward the head. The widening makes the MT07S a bit more awkward than other 4x18650 lights. The switch is small, flush and can be a little hard to find by feel, especially with gloves on.</p>
<h2>Construction</h2>
<p>The MT07S is well-machined with no sharp edges (unlike the HT35) or tool marks. Waterproofing is fine, with no signs of leakage after several minutes of immersion. Nothing really stands out here, but there are no problems.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/3Z2UWyF.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/3Z2UWyF.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The one problem I did have is that the lens broke while the light was in my checked bag. I've flown with a lot of lights, some with bigger lenses than the 62mm of the MT07S and never had a problem. I'm not sure if the lens on this light is weaker than others, or if it's just because I flew United this time. As we know, United <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YGc4zOqozo">breaks guitars</a> and sometimes <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Express_Flight_3411_incident">passengers</a>, so why not flashlights?</p>
<p>I emailed Haikelite to see if I could buy a replacement lens. They did not reply. Instead, I bought a <a href="https://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=UCLp_AR">UCLp</a> 61.6mm, which works, but is slightly too small and compromises waterproofing.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The MT07S uses four 18650 batteries. Protected, unprotected, button and flat top all fit and make contact. With a 4S battery configuration, it is important that the batteries be of the same type and similar in age, condition and state of charge due to the risk of reverse charging. There is low-voltage protection at around 12V (3.0V per cell), but this will not prevent reverse charging when one low cell is mixed with three full ones.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The MT07S offers good opportunities for emitter swaps. Any XHP50 or XHP70 on a 6V board should work. A Nichia 144AM on an appropriate MCPCB will work. Four Nichia E21As on the upcoming Virence quad board will <em>not</em> work easily because the board is too small for the reflector. It's hard to say whether any of the Nichia options will produce a nice looking beam with this reflector.</p>
<p>Due to a lack of MCPCBs that won't short on the reflector, I'm not swapping emitters on this light just yet, but look for a report on a Nichia option in the future.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Fv1zmPb.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Fv1zmPb.jpg"></a></p>Review: Haikelite HT35, a high-powered zoomable spotlight2017-10-20T00:00:00+00:002017-10-20T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-10-20:/haikelite-ht35.html<p>The HT35 is a large, 2x26650 zoomie with an XHP35 emitter. While beginners often think they want adjustable focus, I consider it a specialty feature better suited to those situations where a spill-free spot is desirable. Applications that come to mind are photography, signaling to indicate a specific object or location, some types of hunting and use as a makeshift followspot. The HT35 is much more powerful than what's typical of this category.</p><p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/AlaL6</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The HT35 is a large, 2x26650 zoomie with an XHP35 emitter. While beginners often think they want adjustable focus, I consider it a specialty feature better suited to those situations where a spill-free spot is desirable. Applications that come to mind are photography, signaling to indicate a specific object or location, some types of hunting and use as a makeshift followspot.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/ThLweUY.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/ThLweUY.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Haikelite advertises 2300 lumens and 1000 meters throw. I got 2060 lm and 808 m. I think this light was originally intended to have an XHP35 HI emitter rather than the domed XHP35 it comes with; if the HI was used for the original throw number, that would explain the discrepency. The HT35 is still a respectable thrower with its neutral white tint and lack of spill helping to reduce backscatter. Tint is very uneven across the beam with the exact appearance varying based on zoom setting. In general, floody settings are cool white in the middle, warm white at the edge and a gradient between. A HI emitter would probably help with this. Color quality is otherwise average.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/nl5Wltg.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/nl5Wltg.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Build quality is acceptable, but not great. There are some sharp edges, and unsurprisingly for a zoomie, long-term immersion in water is not a good idea. It did survive a brief dunking and adjusting from flood to throw to create a vaccuum, but a drop of water made it past the seal under the lens. Longer immersion under those conditions may have resulted in water damage. The light is simply described as "waterproof" without specifics, and should be OK to use in the rain and around water, but intentional immersion should be avoided. The head can wobble at some zoom settings, which is not confidence-inspiring, but hasn't caused any trouble.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/t7vbti2.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/t7vbti2.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The user-interface is a simple reverse tail clicky. Click on, half-press to change modes. There are only three, with no blinky modes and no mode memory. It starts in high if it's been off for more than a couple seconds. It's not clear if there's thermal regulation and extended operation on high can get very hot. Output did fluctuate a bit near the end of the uncooled runtime. It's up to the user to switch to a lower mode if the HT35 gets too hot and the manual says as much. The heat is not extreme, and I think user comfort will be the main reason to adjust brightness rather than any harm to the electronics. Output is stable as the batteries drain until the low-voltage stepdown and eventual shutoff.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/0uV2gqB.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/0uV2gqB.jpg"></a></p>
<p>I don't think most peoples' lighting needs are especially well-served by a big, powerful zoomie, but the HT35 may be the best option for those who have an application for such a light. Its high, stable output, respectable throw and passable waterproofing are rare features in that class, and the addition of a tripod mount should make it more appealing to photographers or anyone who wants to improvise a vehicle mount.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Stable output as the batteries drain</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Passable waterproofing</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Enough output that the huge flood setting is bright and useful</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Neutral white option on a zoomie is <em>very</em> rare to see</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Falls short of advertised throw</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Severe tint rainbow</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Sharp edges</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Advertises 18650 as a battery option, but they do not fit without spacers, which are not included</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Coil whine</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Body/head connection wobbles</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The HT35 comes with a carry strap and a lens cloth.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Full-press</td>
<td>High</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Half-press</td>
<td>Cycle modes (H->M->L)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Full-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests were conducted with Sony VTC6 3000 mAh 18650 batteries unless otherwise noted. The HT35 is intended for use with 26650 batteries, which have capacities as high as 5200 mAh. It's reasonable to add roughly 70% to these runtimes to estimate performance on 5200 mAh batteries. With a mechanical switch, there is no standby drain.</p>
<p>The HT35 has no (or minimal) thermal protection and uses a boost driver able to maintain constant output in all modes. Output is nearly perfectly flat for the entire runtime until the low-voltage blink warning. There is low-voltage protection at 6V, or 3.0V per cell making the use of unprotected cells low-risk. I consider the runtime over when the light starts blinking constantly regardless of output, as it's not very usable for illumination at that point.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>250</td>
<td>290</td>
<td>303</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>32 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12.5 hours</td>
<td>239mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>700</td>
<td>865</td>
<td>542</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/Bcmhyo8.png">graph</a></td>
<td>8.5 hours</td>
<td>188 min</td>
<td>188 min</td>
<td>188 min</td>
<td>845mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>2300</td>
<td>2060</td>
<td>808</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/bJVJwKr.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2.5 hours</td>
<td>51 min</td>
<td>51 min</td>
<td>51 min</td>
<td>3300mA</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Additional graphs</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/EK2Rn1L.png">Max uncooled, VTC6</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>One of the advantages of a zoomie is the ability to have a spot of varying size and relatively even brightness. Unfortunately, the tint is not even. To my eyes, it's about 6000K in the center and 4000K at the edges. Side-by-side comparison of lights with known CRI tells me the CRI of the HT35 is around 70; it does wash out colors and obscure subtle differences.</p>
<p>There is no PWM on any mode.</p>
<p>An 80 CRI XHP35 HI would greatly improve this light, having both better color quality and a more even beam pattern. Such emitters do exist and I expect I'll be upgrading mine with one.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/nl5Wltg.jpg">Flood</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/eAoG1I5.jpg">Medium</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/9xEn3HG.jpg">Throw</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Outdoor</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/xprjR8o.jpg">Flood</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/sQIiV3Q.jpg">Medium</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/w49rcuZ.jpg">Throw</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/HnXf8Pw.jpg">Acebeam K70</a>, a larger, much more expensive reflector thrower (NW emitter swap)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The HT35 fits nicely in the hand and has comfortable rings of knurling that provide sufficient grip. The tailswitch is easy to press, however, the guards around it have sharp corners that are quite uncomfortable to put any pressure on. I found the big ring for the carry strap a bit awkward as well; fortunately, it's removable given sufficient torque.</p>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The HT35 claims to run on two 26650s or two 18650s. Unsurprisingly, 18650s are a very loose fit without spacers, which are not included. The unprotected, flat-top 18650s I used for testing were also too short to make contact consistently. Short 26650s might also have contact issues. Protected 18650s do fit comfortably.</p>
<p>I wouldn't complain about 18650 not working well if Haikelite didn't advertise this light as being compatible with 18650, but they do. Longer, softer springs would probably help here. 20700 might work, but I have none and did not test it.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>ToyKeeper has mentioned a couple times that whining noises in flashlights are often produced in the springs. I wondered if bypassing the head spring would reduce the whine the HT35 produces. Unfortunately, it did not.</p>
<p>As I believe this light was intended to have an XHP35 HI, I thought it important to test one, even though I do not yet have the one I want to use long-term. The bezel unscrews easily allowing removal of the lens. A plastic retainer can then be unscrewed to reveal the pill and emitter. It's a heavy brass pill with enough mass to be a decent heatsink.</p>
<p>I used the cool white XHP35 HI I removed from an Acebeam L16 and got these results:</p>
<ul>
<li>Oputput: 1920lm (30s, flood)</li>
<li>Throw (FL1, max throw): 1059m</li>
<li>Throw (FL1, max flood): 98m</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/1ZXYZUn.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/1ZXYZUn.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The tint is very harsh, but the beam pattern is more even, and the throw hits the advertised number. Output is marginally lower, but not by enough to matter. I'll definitely be putting an XHP35 HI in the HT35, but not this one. Kaidomain has a nice <a href="http://kaidomain.com/p/S026091.Cree-XHP35-HI-D2-3D-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter">5000K 80 CRI</a> that even has a half-decent flux bin. Of course, I'll lose a little output, but output is overrated relative to color quality.</p>
<h3>White wall</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/ulHZP1l.jpg">Flood</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/IEEbBuD.jpg">Medium</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/Hrk7dYV.jpg">Throw</a></li>
</ul>Review: Fenix HM50R, a compact angle headlamp that adjusts its brightness whether you like it or not2017-10-10T00:00:00+00:002017-10-10T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-10-10:/fenix-hm50r.html<p>The Fenix HM50R is a small right-angle flashlight/headlamp using an included 16340 rechargeable battery and USB charging, or disposable CR123A battery. The HM50R features an intentional slow rampdown of its brightness during use designed to prolong runtime despite having hardware capable of sustaining full brightness. There is no way to turn this feature off. It seems like the HM50R is designed for inattentive users, or to compete with low-quality headlamps that advertise absurdly unrealistic runtimes.</p><p>This <a href="http://fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=2249&tid=41&cid=2">Fenix HM50R</a> was provided by Fenix for review.</p>
<p>Extra images can be found in the album: http://imgur.com/a/VCq26</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The HM50R is a new 16340/CR123A-powered right-angle light from Fenix with MicroUSB charging. It's the only small (under 100g with battery and headband) headlamp on the market with onboard charging for a standard, removable battery as of this writing. It can even run on USB power in medium mode without a battery or during charging. That alone would get it a positive recommendation but for one dubious feature: its large timed rampdowns. Despite having a boost driver and thermal sensor, the HM50R reduces its maximum output to around 25% on a timer. Lower modes, too reduce over time, with only the minimum mode having stable output. I see this light as a missed opportunity for Fenix and would love to see a version 2.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/qVnBH6g.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/ZGcLlLX.jpg</p>
<p>I'm likely not the intended market. I can usually manage to put myself in the mindset of someone who uses tools diffrently from me, but I'm struggling with this one. My best guess is that Fenix is trying to compete with the likes of Black Diamond and Petzl, who advertise headlamps with <strong>extremely</strong> misleading runtimes that start out high, plummet, then run at a tiny fraction of their original output for hours or days. Fenix isn't doing anything misleading: they put a graph right on the box showing what the light will do, and it does exactly that. Maybe this is a benefit to a user who's absentminded and has a habit of selecting too high an output and not thinking about battery life.</p>
<p>I asked my Fenix rep about this and was told that the rampdowns are intended to work with how human vision adapts to lower light levels to extend battery life without significantly hurting visibility. I could appreciate a feature like this if it was a bit less aggressive and there was a way to disable it. I definitely found myself noticing my ability to see dropping while walking at night wearing the HM50R and had to reset the brightness to maintain my ability to see as well as I wanted. It certainly extends battery life though, with the highest mode running for 2.5 hours if not reset.</p>
<p>The HM50R squanders other potential advantages as well. The user interface uses an e-switch, but has no shortcuts. Press-and-hold from off triggers the last-used mode. There's no way to get to high, low or anything else from off. Most premium lights with electronic switches have shortcuts from off to at least low, high and last-used if not a medium mode as well. Fenix advertises that the HM50R is good as a headlamp or a handheld flashlight, but fails to include a pocket clip like most of its competition.</p>
<p>The beam itself is cool white, with a noticeably purple spill. Fenix makes several neutral white products and extols its virtues for color accuracy and user comfort, but does not use it on the HM50R. I don't have a spectrometer and can't measure CRI, but my eyes tell me it's very average on the HM50R. It does wash out subtle variations in color and I do find the light it produces a bit fatiguing in long-term use.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/B36cLK7.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/H89hXzD.jpg</p>
<p>To its credit, the HM50R does everything it says it does. Output and throw numbers even came in above spec. It's a sad thing that performing as advertised needs to be a noteworthy positive trait of a premium product, but that's the headlamp market. The built quality is excellent. The waterproofing is good despite the USB port. Low overall weight and some silicone added to the inside of the headband make the HM50R both stable and comfortable on my head.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Does what it says on the ~~tin~~ colorful plastic retail packaging</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>The only USB charging small headlamp on the market that uses a standard, removable battery</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Effective boost driver capable of full output on a low battery or in cold weather</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Great build quality and waterproofing, as usual from Fenix</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No blinky modes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Makes 35 lumens on USB power while charging or without a battery</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Fast charging</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Intentionally doesn't maintain its output, squandering the advantage of its boost driver</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No pocket clip</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Cool white, low-CRI; washes out colors</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No shortcuts, and long-press required for on/off</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>The HM50R seems like a good choice for a spare headlamp to be given to people too inexperienced or absentminded to manage their battery power effectively, but I'd like it a whole lot more if I could turn the rampdown feature off.</p>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The HM50R is packaged with:</p>
<ul>
<li>A Fenix protected 16340 battery</li>
<li>A USB cable</li>
<li>A headband with silicone holder</li>
<li>A spare silicone holder</li>
<li>A spare USB port cover</li>
<li>Spare o-rings</li>
<li>A manual</li>
</ul>
<p>There is no pocket clip, a significant omission.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Battery check</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Memory</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Next mode (L->H)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Operation is simple to understand, but not exactly convenient. Most lights at this price point have shortcuts to low, high and either medium or last-used. They are missed here. </p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All runtimes are with the included Fenix 700mAh 16340 battery. Calculated runtimes are based on current with a full battery and do not account for the light's rampdowns. There is a thermal stepdown claimed to trigger at 65C, however it was never reached even when continually resetting the timed rampdown without cooling.</p>
<p>I also did a test on turbo manually resetting the brightness.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>FL1 throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>lumens</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2 years</td>
<td>37.2 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>90 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>102 hours (calculated)</td>
<td>6.86mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Med</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>21</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>24 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 hours (calculated)</td>
<td>56.7mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>130</td>
<td>141</td>
<td>43</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/E5zCh8h.png">graph</a></td>
<td>10 hours</td>
<td>29 min</td>
<td>72 min</td>
<td>9.4 hours</td>
<td>245.8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>500</td>
<td>547</td>
<td>86</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/8a0V3Ou.png">graph</a></td>
<td>2.5 hours</td>
<td>5 min</td>
<td>10 min</td>
<td>145 min</td>
<td>~1.5A</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo reset</td>
<td>500</td>
<td>547</td>
<td>86</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/NqXi96o.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>28 min</td>
<td>28 min</td>
<td>36 min</td>
<td>~1.5A</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>As a headlamp, the HM50R is very comfortable. I'm used to much larger 18650-powered headlamps, and this much smaller light is hard to even notice on my head. The headband has a strip of silicone which helps keep it in position. I thought this might feel sticky and uncomfortable, but didn't really notice it in practice.</p>
<p>As a handheld, the HM50R is tiny and hard to minipulate. It's impossible to grip in a fist without obscuring part of the beam. I ended up mostly using a pinch grip on the head. The ergonomics work well as a headlamp first and handheld second, but many people use right-angle lights the other way around; I don't think this size is ideal for those users. The lack of a pocket clip seems to suggest Fenix agrees. There are some hard angles, and I don't like carrying the HM50R in a standard pants pocket without a clip, but I did find I could stick it and its headband in a cargo pocket, which might be good for someone who wants to carry a headlamp for occasional use.</p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>The included battery is a Fenix branded, protected 16340. Charging via MicroUSB is very fast, finishing in an hour with a fully discharged battery. I measured 713mA charging current. Capacity is advertised at 700 mAh and tests slightly higher on my Opus BT-C3100. There is mechanical reverse-polarity protection, so most flat-tops probably won't work. A CR123 primary can also be used.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/TvNlVmU.jpg</p>
<p>16340 is certainly a popular enough size, though the marginally larger 18350 has recently gained a much larger capacity option in the Aspire 1100 mAh (originally sold as 1300 mAh) cell. This is a 50% increase in capacity for a trivial increase in volume. I doubt this cell was available during the design of the HM50R and previous 18350 offerings weren't really compelling, so it's hard to fault Fenix for not supporting them, but I really think this light needs a version 2 and would urge Fenix to consider a slightly larger battery tube. The head is already big enough that it wouldn't increase the maximum dimensions of the light at all.</p>
<h2>Build quality</h2>
<p>As usual for Fenix, the build quality is excellent. There are no tool marks, finish defects, uneven machining or other problems. Unusually, the threads were unlubricated; I asked about this and was told it's meant to be that way and does not require lubrication. I think this is due to the recommended procedure for installing the lamp in the headband; the tailcap and battery should be removed before pushing the lamp through the holder. The holder is silicone, and the usual silicone-based grease would damage it, not to mention being messy.</p>
<p>The lack of lubrication may slightly impact waterproofing. During testing, I found a drop of water made it past the o-ring into the threads, but did not enter the battery compartment. No water entered the USB cover, and overall, I think the HM50R's waterproofing is fine for the intended use and advertised IP68 rating.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/Pk5TsiD.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/SqvwDiL.jpg</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The HM50R's bezel unscrews easily and the reflector comes out with it. There's nothing in the way of the emitter, though the MCPCB is a bit of an odd shape, sitting on a floating shelf. As there are no XM pattern emitters I'm especially fond of, a bit of time with a file on a 16mm XP MCPCB made it fit. The emitter I chose is a 5000K, 80 CRI Nichia 219C, one of my favorite emitters of all time. There's marginally less output, marginally more throw and slight changes to power consumption, but none of that is the point.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/Bw0yRRx.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/TSu0EKr.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/JrJ6I7G.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/YXh6j2n.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/YnHJM85.jpg</p>
<p>The point, of course is that the light coming out of the headlamp is pleasant to use now. It looks like sunlight at midday, makes colors appear natural and vivid and doesn't produce fatigue. Fenix should consider using this emitter in its products.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/sYbAyvR.jpg</p>
<p>Mode | Estimated Lumens | FL1 throw | Graph | Time to 80% | Time to 50% | Time to 10% | Tailcap current
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
Low | 3 | - | - | - | - | 2 years | 6.81mA
Med | 34 | 23 | - | - | - | 12 hours | 56.78mA
High | 132 | 48 | - | - | - | 3 hours | 250.5mA
Turbo | 480 | 92 | <a href="http://imgur.com/xYbaxRp.png">graph</a> | 4 min | 10 min | 2.5 hours | ~1.4A</p>Review: Klarus XT2CR, a slim dual-tailswitch light with USB2017-10-06T00:00:00+00:002017-10-06T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-10-06:/klarus-xt2cr.html<p>The Klarus XT2CR is a pocket friendly 18650 light with USB charging and dual tailswitches offering shortcuts to useful modes or strobe. It is hampered by output falling well short of advertised, visible flickering, poor thermal regulation and cool white tint.</p><p>This <a href="http://goinggear.com/klarus-xt2cr-1600-lumen-usb-rechargeable-1-x-18650-cree-xhp35-led-flashlight.html">Klarus KT2CR</a> was provided by <a href="https://goinggear.com">Going Gear</a> for review. Use coupon code REDDIT for 10% off most lights.</p>
<p>Going Gear's founder, Marshall (/u/storl) passed away recently. In support of his family, all sales at http://olightstore.com <strong>today</strong>, October 6 only will be donated to Marshall's family.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at https://imgur.com/a/RfaDj</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The XT2CR is a new offering from Klarus providing a unique take on the popular dual-switch, USB-charging, straight-tube, 18650-powered segment. This light is aimed at the "tactical" end of the market, and indeed the T word appears five times on the product page. The feature set is, indeed well suited to self defense and law enforcement use: the main switch always turns the light on in high, it's a forward-clicky with half-press for momentary, and the output is appropriate for those use cases.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Dnzmww3.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Dnzmww3.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/IJDnMpv.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/IJDnMpv.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Unlike any of its comparably-equipped competition, both switches are on the tail, and the power switch does not need to be turned on to charge. This addresses two of the most common complaints about lights in this category. The mode switch can also trigger actions from off, giving the XT2CR shortcuts not usually found in similar lights. There are two mode groups to chose from: "tactical", with 3 brightness levels and a shortcut to strobe on the secondary switch, and "outdoor", with four brightness levels and a shortcut to low on the secondary switch. Both groups always turn on high when the main switch is pressed, and I think even users with tactical needs might find the outdoor group more useful. For those who do like fast access to strobe, it doesn't get faster than in the XT2C's tactical group.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/pxFig0V.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/pxFig0V.jpg"></a></p>
<p>With a protected 18650 battery included and the ability to charge from MicroUSB like most phones, the XT2CR offers an all in one, ready to use package. The charging is reasonably fast, taking about 3 hours to fully charge a battery, and the included battery has as much capacity as any 18650, though not quite the claimed 3600 mAh. All 18650s fit, power and charge inside the XT2CR regardless of button or flat tops or the presence or absence of a protection PCB. The light lacks low-voltage protection and will discharge an unprotected 18650 to 1.0V before shutting off, though it does give warnings with the side indicator light, and eventually blinking the main LED. Caution should be used with unprotected batteries.</p>
<p>The actual light produced by the XT2CR isn't its strong point. There's a a fair amount of it, but the tint is cool white and it is not consistent across the beam. The hotspot is a fairly pure white, but the corona around it has a distinct green tinge, while the edges of the spill are noticeably purple. CRI is unspecified, but most likely around 70. As with most LEDs that don't specifically emphasize color quality, subtle differences in color are a bit washed out, which can be detrimental for quickly identifying people and objects. I'm more critical than the average reviewer about this because I'm hoping to encourage both consumers and manufacturers to pay more attention to color quality. Lumens sell lights, but CRI helps you see.</p>
<p>There's also not as much light as advertised. While I'm a little hesitant to call out manufacturers when my estimating equipment reads a bit lower than advertised, I got 1186 lumens and 218m of throw, which is <strong>well</strong> below advertised and not meaningfully more than 1x18650, 1" tube lights have been making for years. I'm not surprised, as every 1x18650 XHP35 light I've tested has fallen short of advertised performance. Other reviewers have had similar results with the XHP35, and I'm not sure how otherwise-reputable manufacturers are getting their numbers for these lights. Low is also much higher than advertised at 30 lumens. The boost driver underperforms too, giving lower output on a fresh start with a low battery.</p>
<p>The XT2CR's main selling point is the user interface. It aims to serve both "tactical" and everyday users without significantly compromising either use case, much like the Acebeam L16. I think it largely succeeds, especially if kept in outdoor mode. For users who place a high value on this set of UI features, the XT2CR is a decent choice. For those who care about color quality, or for whom the above-average advertised output is attractive, the XT2CR falls short. </p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Versatile UI suited to multiple use cases.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent waterproofing despite having a USB port.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Above-average holster included.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Well-spaced modes.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Versatile with regard to batteries.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Cool white, low-CRI.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Performance falls well short of advertised specs.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Low mode is much higher than advertised, and too high for a lot of use cases.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No low-voltage protection, in combination with a boost driver that can damage a battery more quickly than most lights.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Output is not stable on the highest mode, despite having a boost driver.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Thermal regulation is confused.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Severe PWM/ripple on medium.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The XT2CR ships with the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Holster</li>
<li>Klarus branded protected 3600 mAh 18650</li>
<li>USB cable</li>
<li>Pocket clip</li>
<li>Lanyard</li>
<li>Spare O-rings</li>
<li>User manual</li>
<li>Warranty card</li>
</ul>
<p>The holster is of better quality than I'm used to seeing included with lights.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>There are two mode groups, which are fundamentally similar, but different in the details.</p>
<p>Outdoor group:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Half-press main switch</td>
<td>Max (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Full-press main switch</td>
<td>Max (steady)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press mode switch</td>
<td>Low (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press mode switch</td>
<td>Low (steady)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Change modes (L -> H</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (main switch only)</td>
<td>Long-press mode switch</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Tactical group:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Half-press main switch</td>
<td>Max (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Full-press main switch</td>
<td>Max (steady)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press mode switch</td>
<td>Strobe (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press mode switch</td>
<td>Strobe (steady)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Change modes (H -> L</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (main switch only)</td>
<td>Long-press mode switch</td>
<td>strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>To switch between groups, hold down the mode switch until the side indicator light blinks, then press the main switch. </p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests were conducted with an LG HG2 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted. Advertised runitmes are with the included "3600 mAh" Klarus battery.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/gOuazxJ.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/gOuazxJ.jpg"></a></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>1 year</td>
<td>375 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>10</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>200 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medium</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>76</td>
<td>60</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>14 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>400</td>
<td>388</td>
<td>123</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/tShs2UV.png">graph</a></td>
<td>240 min</td>
<td>159 min</td>
<td>159 min</td>
<td>170 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>1600</td>
<td>1186</td>
<td>222</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/WThFFSK.png">graph</a></td>
<td>72 min</td>
<td>1 min</td>
<td>1 min</td>
<td>98 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The standby current is high enough to drain the battery in about a year. That's excessive, and two orders of magnitude above what I've seen from some budget e-switch lights as well as premium competition like Armytek. Loosening the tailcap isn't a full mechanical lockout and may not eliminate the standby drain. This light should not be stored long-term with batteries installed. The unusual design of this light prevented me from measuring current with the light on.</p>
<p>Outputs were not meaningfully different the using supplied Klarus "3600 mAh" battery, a Sony VTC6, one of the most capable high-drain cells on the market, nor with two Aspire INR high-drain 18350s. Starting the light with a 3.7V battery results in an initial output of 750lm, climbing slowly to 900, then decreasing again. This is unusual behavior from a boost driver that I can't recall observing with any other light. It does provide full output on lower modes, but fails to do so on max, which is one of the usual advantages of a boost driver. There was thermal throttling even with water cooling, which kept the light cool to the touch. Either there's a thermal path issue, or Klarus didn't anticipate anybody keeping this light cool enough.</p>
<p>Lights that use the XHP35 emitter with a single 18650 often perform significantly worse than advertised. The best one I've tested, the Acebeam L16 fell short by 15% on output and throw. The Armytek Prime Pro fell short of its advertised output by a much larger margin, even more than the XT2CR does. I'm disappointed to see otherwise-reputable companies advertising numbers that are simply wishful thinking. I'm not convinced that this emitter, requiring a 3-4x voltage boost is a good idea for 1x18650 lights, as the advertised output is usually possible with a much smaller voltage boost simply by driving a 3V emitter hard.</p>
<p>Additional graphs:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://i.imgur.com/YmTrl39.png">Fan-cooled, max</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/KcAIL7t.png">Uncooled, max</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Light quality</h2>
<p>Some current ripple is detectable using a smartphone with manual shutter speed, especially on the medium mode. Adjusting shutter speed suggests a frequency around 500 Hz, and there's a visible stop-motion effect when waving my hand in front of the light in medium, but not other modes. This effect will interfere with most smartphone cameras and many other compact image capture devices, such as body cameras. The most affected mode is absent from the tactical mode group.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Mb5sZeV.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Mb5sZeV.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The beam is cool white. The center is a fairly pure cool white, but the corona is green and the outer spill is a bit purple. CRI is unspecified, but probably right around 70. This is not a beautiful beam.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/gm9Hx0y.jpg">Outdoor</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/Vr22Is7.jpg">White wall</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/D28bYBj.jpg">Armytek Prime XHP35, for comparison</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The XT2CR is as comfortable to hold in the hand as any 1" tube light. The anodizing is smooth, with some light checkering in the center section. Grip is adequate, but not exceptional. The buttons are fairly easy to press, however the wings on the sides can interfere. They're not quite large enough, however for reliable tailstanding. I would have preferred that Klarus pick one or the other.</p>
<p>The pocket clip holds securely without destroying clothing, however it's positioned unusually far down the body of the light. It's a loopover design, but does not make any attempt to increase carry depth. The result is over an inch of tailcap sticking out of the pocket. While I don't ordinarily prefer especially deep carry, as I want my EDC gear to be easy to get out, this takes it too far. I tried using an Armytek Wizard clip and succeeded only in scratching the XT2CR's finish, though a similar clip in slightly narrower metal would work.</p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>The included batter is a protected button top claiming 3600 mAh. I measured 3400, which is about what I expected to find. I suspect the cell is the rare Sanyo NCR18650G, which claimed 3600 mAh, but didn't perform as well as the NCR18650GA, which claims 3500. Aside from being slighly off in advertised capacity, this battery is fine.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/an571SY.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/an571SY.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Charging takes 3 hours with an HG2 that was run down to the light's low-voltage warning and a 1.8A MicroUSB charger, an average charge rate of 1A. The first 2 hours or more are likely at a higher rate, because current is reduced near the end of a Li-ion charge cycle.</p>
<p>The XT2CR can use and charge any standard 18650 battery, with or without protection circuits or button tops. As it lacks hard low-voltage protection, care must be used with unprotected cells. There is sufficient warning when the battery is low, but the XT2CR's boost driver can and will over-discharge a cell if allowed to. There's some battery rattle if the light is shaken with an unprotected flat-top, but it does not break contact.</p>
<p>Two CR123s, 16340s or 18350s may be used. I'm not sure if there's any warning about low-voltage with two Li-ions and would recommend against using that configuration outside of an emergency.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The steel bezel is easily removed from the XT2CR, intended to be replaceable with a more aggressive version. This does not allow access to any internal components, however. The forward section of the head is held in place by glue, which I was able to defeat using boiling water and a strap wrench.</p>
<ul>
<li>https://imgur.com/AUsOV0f.jpg</li>
<li>https://imgur.com/ZYrhVnk.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>As I want to post the review today to further promote the benefit for Marshall's family, I will try emitter swaps later and make a separate post, as well as updating this review. 12V emitter options that seem viable include other variants of XHP35, the XHP50 and XHP50.2 if there's a spacer/centering ring option that works well, and the Nichia 144AR, with similar spacing considerations. I expect an XHP35 HI to make the nicest beam out of those, and Kaidomain does offer them in 80 CRI and a couple tints.</p>Review: Acebeam L16, a rechargeable tactical light with long throw2017-08-02T00:00:00+00:002017-08-02T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-08-02:/acebeam-l16.html<p>The Acebeam L16 is a long-throwing tactical light. I usually avoid the T word, but this thing fits. It's intended to be a police duty light, or to be mounted on a rifle, and it fits that role well. What I found most compelling for the use case is that pressing the tailswitch always results in max output, with all other functions controled by the side switch. I strongly recommend looking for the 5000K neutral white version, as the cool white model reviewed here is very harsh.</p><p>This <a href="https://bestlight.io/products/acebeam-l16">Acebeam L16</a> was provided by <a href="https://bestlight.io">BestLight</a> for review. Use coupon code REDDIT for 10% off most lights.</p>
<p>A full album with extra images is available at http://imgur.com/a/ftzK8</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The L16 is Acebeam's new entry into the long-throwing duty light segment, competing closely with the likes of the <a href="https://bestlight.io/products/klarus-xt12gt">Klarus XT12GT</a>. It runs on a single, standard 18650 battery (included) and has a MicroUSB port for onboard charging. The target market appears to be first responders, however the L16 is suited to anyone who needs a light with some reach combined with foolproof operation when under pressure. I hate the profilic use of the T-word in marketing, but it's actually fair to call the L16 "tactical", which, unsurprisingly, Acebeam does.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/4HqVa4N.jpg</p>
<p>I had initially expected the L16 to be a dedicated jacket-pocket size thrower that isn't especially useful at shorter distances, but the hotspot is larger, and more of the light goes to the spill than I would have guessed. While I wouldn't recommend the L16 for a use case that's primarily indoors or in a dense forest, it's it's well suited to general use in more open spaces. Unfortunately, the beam is a very cool tint, between 6500 and 7000K. It's a pure white without the rainbow effect of off colors found in many domed Cree emitters, but the tint is fairly harsh to my eyes. More objectively, the light of the L16 washes out colors, making details harder to see and has significant backscatter when the air is not clear, which would be lessened with a warmer tint. I think a 4000K tint would be ideal for this light's intended use case.</p>
<ul>
<li>L16: http://imgur.com/8saHza3.jpg</li>
<li>For comparison, a neutral white Astrolux SS, considered to be more of a dedicated pocket thrower: http://imgur.com/GT2BnfS.jpg</li>
<li>And a floody light, the Klarus G30: http://imgur.com/dqW0oNe.jpg</li>
</ul>
<p>The user interface isn't the typical dual-switch configuration, but more like two lights in one. The tailswitch is a forward-clicky with half-press for momentary and always locks the light in its highest mode no matter what it was doing before. Releasing or toggling the tailswitch off always turns the light off, no matter what it was doing before. It's a foolproof one-mode light with momentary. With the side switch, it's a well-designed e-switch light. From off, hold for low, double-click for high or short-click for last-used. When on, hold to cycle in order of increasing brightness. Triple-click for strobe, if you must. A short click from on is always off. This is my favorite solution yet to the probelm of designing a light that's both versatile in terms of output levels, but foolproof under stress.</p>
<p>The construction is solid, typical of Acebeam in my experience. I was particularly impressed by how well the USB port cover keeps out water, a point of concern with some users when it comes to onboard-charging lights. There are springs at both ends of the battery tube which allow the use of all 18650s, protected or unprotected, flat or button top. In addition, the battery tube has a shoulder at the front, preventing the battery from bouncing against the driver board if subjected to severe shocks. Acebeam claims the L16 is suitable for weapon mounting, and this feature is very appropriate to that use case.</p>
<p>The L16 didn't quite hit its advertised numbers in my testing, measuring 1700 lumens and 515m throw to the advertised 2000lm and 603m. This came as little surprise to me as single Li-ion lights using the XHP35 emitter very rarely perform as advertised. The similar Klarus XT12GT also claims 603m throw and fell short by almost exactly the same amount when <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/69mwew/zeroair_reviews_klarus_xt12gt_18650cr123ax2_cree/">zeroair reviewed it</a>. Using the XHP35 requires boosting voltage from the 3.0-4.2 of the battery to around 12.0, which is difficult to do at high power levels efficiently. Runtime suffers as a result, and the light can't quite maintain stable output on its highest mode when cooled, though it's more likely to get hot and drop to 45% under typical conditions. That's still about 400m FL1 throw and a useful amount of light that can be maintained for an hour. I think an efficiency hit like this would have been better spent on color quality; a 90 CRI 219C can also make 1000 lumens from 4.4A, but lumens sell lights and the XHP35 HI can make more of them, briefly.</p>
<p>People who aren't picky about tint and color rendering will like the L16 as it comes. It's a solidly-built, all-inclusive package with a perfect UI for the application, but a 4000K emitter would greatly improve it. That will have a bit less output, of course, but human eyes don't perceieve brightness linearally and most people would struggle to tell the difference without instruments.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Innovative user interface blending versalitily with foolproof operation</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Useful spill and large hotspot for the amount of throw</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Heavy-duty construction</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Good waterproofing</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Nice holster</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Very cool tint</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Falls short of advertised performance</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Poor efficiency</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Unsophisticated thermal regulation</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Side switch is difficult to find by feel</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Slightly high standby current</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The L16 ships with the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Holster</li>
<li>Acebeam branded protected 3100 mAh high-drain 18650</li>
<li>USB cable</li>
<li>Pocket clip</li>
<li>Grip ring</li>
<li>Lanyard</li>
<li>Spare O-rings</li>
<li>Spare switch boot</li>
<li>User manual</li>
<li>Warranty card</li>
</ul>
<p>The holster is of better quality than I'm used to seeing included with lights, and I've read elsewhere that Acebeam's 3100 mAh battery is believed to be a Sony VTC6. It is protected, but able to handle the high load of the L16, while some other protected batteries I tried tripped.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/MoLrbt7.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/5Bm2RB5.jpg</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>Activating the tailswitch always results in turbo, from off or on. A half-press is momentary and a full press is toggle. Deactivating the tailswitch always turns the light off, even if it had been turned on with the side switch. As to the side switch:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short click</td>
<td>Memorized mode (last-used other than turbo or strobe)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (any, unless tailswitch is on)</td>
<td>Short click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-click</td>
<td>Firefly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On (any, unless tailswitch is on)</td>
<td>Long click</td>
<td>Cycle through modes in l->h order</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Turbo</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is no sign of PWM on any mode.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests were conducted with an LG HG2 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw (FL1 meters)</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current (mA)</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>2.8 years</td>
<td>124 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>500 hours (21 days)</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>439 hours ( 18 days)</td>
<td>6.84</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>150</td>
<td>131</td>
<td>140</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9 hours</td>
<td>330.5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mid</td>
<td>500</td>
<td>460</td>
<td>267</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/WkTQt1t.png">graph</a></td>
<td>132 min</td>
<td>153 min</td>
<td>153 min</td>
<td>153 min</td>
<td>1460</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>1000</td>
<td>1016</td>
<td>399</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/AgZostw.png">graph</a></td>
<td>72 min</td>
<td>48 min</td>
<td>48 min</td>
<td>48 min</td>
<td>4400</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>2000</td>
<td>1700</td>
<td>515</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/AgZostw.png">graph</a></td>
<td>66 min</td>
<td>20 min</td>
<td>23 min</td>
<td>23 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Additional graphs:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://imgur.com/BQDGc8f.png">Max, cooled with the Acebeam battery</a></li>
</ul>
<p>The 4.4A required to produce 1000 lumens is about 50% more than an XP-L needs, though the runtime test got a bit more out of it than the current draw would have predicted. Advertised runtimes are likely uncooled, and the L16 gave me 68 minutes to 10% on turbo without cooling. While I'd prefer that manufacturers be clear about that when a light has a thermal sensor and can have its runtime affected significantly by environmental conditions, I'm pleased that the advertised runtime was accurate.</p>
<p>The light's built-in low voltage protection trips at 2.35V. That's not ideal, but a warning blink starts at about 3.0V and a prudent user will heed it. 2.35V will not cause serious damage to a battery as long as it isn't done regularly and the battery is charged reasonably soon after.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The L16 feels lightweight and comfortable in the hand. Different surfaces are textured differently, but all provide acceptable grip. The tailswitch is proud and easy to press with a moderate amount of travel required to lock it on. Using momentary is easy for me. The side switch, on the other hand is flush and a bit difficult to find by feel. I find myself just feeling for a flat area, not a switch.</p>
<p>There's a grip ring installed on the light from the factory. It screws off, but won't slide over the O-ring; removal requires removing the O-ring first. It's mainly intended for using the light in conjunction with a firearm, which I tried and found uncomfortable. Maybe I'm not tactical enough.</p>
<p>I tried using the pocket clip and found that uncomfortable as well. I don't think it's meant to be used regularly due to the light's width, but the L16 can be securely carried in a larger pocket using the clip.</p>
<p><a href="http://imgur.com/9OgPF0R.jpg">Size comparison</a>: Astrolux SS, Acebeam L16, Zebralight SC62w, Fenix TK25 R&B, Nitecore EC4</p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>The included battery is a 3100 mAh protected cell. I've seen it suggested that this is a Sony VTC6. Its performance appears comparable, anyway. All 18650 batteries tried worked in the light regardless of flat or button tops and protection or lack thereof. Some protected cells, however tripped in turbo mode. Cells rated for 10A or more should be used for both safety and performance, as the light does not appear to make a significant attempt to reduce output. Two CR123s can also be used, but output and runtime will be reduced.</p>
<p>Charging takes 4 hours with an HG2 that was run down to the light's LVP, a 2A power supply and the included Acebeam USB cable. </p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them. The bezel is easy to remove and installing another 12V emitter should be very straightforward. I have the 4000K XHP35 HI I've been saying this light needs, but other 12V emitters like the Cree XHP50 and XHP50.2 on an appropriate MCPCB or the Nichia 144AR could be used without the original centering ring.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/NlMyjht</p>
<p>I ordered this <a href="http://kaidomain.com/p/S026109.Cree-XHP35-HI-C4-40E-Neutral-White-4000K-CRI80-LED-Emitter">XHP35 HI in 4000K, 80 CRI</a> from Kaidomain. I could have gone for a decent 5000K tint with about the same output as the original, but I thought the backscatter would be better at 4000K, and I wanted to see if my usual preference to trade output for CRI held up in a longer throwing light.</p>
<p>It did, I think. I can see better with the warm L16 than with my 5000K, unspecified CRI Astrolux SS, which has similar throw, and now isn't too far behind in output. Those numbers, by the way:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Lumens</th>
<th>Throw</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>115</td>
<td>152</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>393</td>
<td>246</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>831</td>
<td>358</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>1340</td>
<td>459</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The tint reminds me a lot of a 4000K Nichia 219C. It's not coppery like the warm Wizard XHP50 nor rosy like a 219B, but a little bit yellow. There's no significant green or tint shift across the beam. Overall, I'd call it pleasant. Color quality is good, but things don't quite pop like they do with a 90+ CRI emitter. It's still helpful at a distance, and I wouldn't give up the improved color quality to restore the original output even in this tint were that option available. At a minimum, every percent change in CRI is worth 3% output to me, possibly more.</p>
<p>I wouldn't be keeping this light if I couldn't swap the emitter, but I like it a lot now.</p>Review: Armytek Wizard Pro XHP502017-07-30T00:00:00+00:002017-07-30T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-07-30:/armytek-wizard-pro.html<p>The Armytek Wizard Pro is a multipurpose right-angle flashlight/headlamp/worklight with magnetic charging and an 18650 Li-ion battery. Nearly two years after the original publication of this review, a modified (high-CRI) version remains my favorite and most-used all-around flashlight.</p><p>These <a href="https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/multi-flashlights/armytek-wizard-pro-magnet-usb-18650/">Armytek Wizard Pros Magnet/USB</a> were provided by Armytek for review. Use coupon code RED for 10% off regular-price flashlights at armytek.com and armytek.ca.</p>
<p>The full image gallery is <a href="https://imgur.com/a/FEHya">here</a></p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Armytek Wizard Pro Magnet/USB is my new favorite headlamp. If you think you might want one and you don't enjoy reading reviews, you can stop reading now and buy it. I prefer the warm tint version.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/bGuTExO.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/bGuTExO.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Armytek's Wizard line of right-angle flashlight/headlamp hybrids have been a staple on /r/flashlight for years. These are the latest iteration with XHP50 emitters for more output, a more comfortable plastic mount in the headband, which allows simultaneous use of the headband and clip, magnetic charging, a battery included and extra cooling fins. Like previous versions of the Wizard Pro, these have a honeycomb TIR optic with a floody beam, boost drivers for stable output on a low/cold battery, smart thermal regulation that attempts to maintain as much output as possible without overheating and a user interface with shortcuts to a good selection of output levels.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/eyoYLJj.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/eyoYLJj.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Armytek is known for advertising high impact and waterproofing ratings, but there have been a number of reports of Wizard Pros cracking lenses. The latest version, with cooling fins and possibly some revisions to the head design seem to have fixed that issue. Repeatedly running the lights to thermal stepdown and dunking them in cold water had no effect on the lenses, and they're now held in place by a very thick o-ring under the bezel. I did manage to crack one, but it required hitting the bezel with a hammer (see modifications section).</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/MHcl2Wz.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/MHcl2Wz.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The new headband design uses a plastic holder that's much more comfortable to me than the silicone other angle lights, including older Wizards come with. Even better, installation in the headband is possible with the pocket clip installed! I don't think that's quite what Armytek intended, but it works perfectly. There's also an armband, which was a little big for my wrist and not too useful other places. I'm not entirely sure how this would be used, but it's there.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/b5YI47K.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/b5YI47K.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The finish is Armytek's standard matte anodizing with lots of silver writing. It looks like some of the silver paint got oversprayed on both units, but this wore off over time.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/vutzWLD.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/vutzWLD.jpg"></a></p>
<p>The beam is broad relatively even with a gentle gradient from bright in the middle to dim near the edges. The cool tint is probably around 5700K and a bit green-biased, but not bad. The warm is 3500-3700K and coppery. I normally prefer neutral tints, and a bit cooler ones at that, but I found the warm more pleasant here.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/Mjjvdch.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/Mjjvdch.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/0KcXAI5.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/0KcXAI5.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/nsN5rgK.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/nsN5rgK.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/udBNG5f.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/udBNG5f.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/noyvqKt.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/noyvqKt.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/LmolS30.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/LmolS30.jpg"></a></p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Can be installed in the headband with the pocket clip in place</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Stable output on low/cold battery</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Magnetic charging that won't short the battery in your pocket or burn your house down</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Smooth, floody beam pattern</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Most comfortable headband in its class</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Headband can be used with pocket clip installed</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent waterproofing</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Fully potted driver; the 10m impact rating is probably honest</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>A bit bulky in the pocket compared to the competition</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>There seems to be some variation in drive current from sample to sample</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Runtimes fall short of advertised, even in the lower current sample</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Charging is slow</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>It <strong>is</strong> possible, under certain circumstances to get current across the terminals on the tailcap, and I believe there should <strong>never</strong> be significant current on the body of a light</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The following is included with the Wizard Pro USB:</p>
<ul>
<li>Armytek branded unprotected LG MH1 18650 battery</li>
<li>Pocket clip</li>
<li>Plastic holder</li>
<li>Headband</li>
<li>Armband</li>
<li>Charging cable</li>
<li>Manual</li>
<li>Spare o-rings</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/cwlLOmx.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/cwlLOmx.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Memorized mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Single click</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off/turbo/blinky</td>
<td>Double click</td>
<td>Last-used main mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main (medium) modes</td>
<td>Double click</td>
<td>Last-used firefly mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple click</td>
<td>Last-used turbo mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Quad click</td>
<td>Last-used blinky mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through modes starting with firefly1 (turbo2 excluded); loops around</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Hold</td>
<td>Cycle through modes in current group</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is a "tactical" momentary mode that makes the light momentary-only in the last mode used. To enable it, loosen the tailcap, hold the button, then tighten the tailcap. To put it back in normal operation, hold the button, then loosen the tailcap.</p>
<h1>Battery and charging</h1>
<p>The included Armytek branded unprotected battery is an LG MH1. This is a good medium-drain battery, but the Wizard Pro will start reducing output earlier with this battery than it would with a high-drain battery like the LG HG2 or Sony VTC6. This reduction in output means the Wizard Pro should be safe even for a careless or uninformed user with low-drain batteries.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/sLvXMSt.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/sLvXMSt.jpg"></a></p>
<p>To charge the battery, the tailcap must be loosened slightly to break the circuit. The charger is then attached by magnet, effectively inserting it into the circuit. The charger delivers 30mA when shorted through an ammeter and only increases current upon detecting that it's connected to an appropriate battery, so it is not hazardous. The charger will blink red if an abnormal condition such as a tight tailcap or a short is detected. When charging, it is solid red, and when charged, it is green.</p>
<p>Charging is slow, taking over 7 hours for the included battery. This is fine for both overnight charging and occasional top-ups in a vehicle while using the light at stops, but heavy users should probably carry spares and charge batteries in a dedicated charger.</p>
<p>Current when shorting the loosened tailcap is whatever current the driver would get with the tailcap tightened. When off, this isn't a problem, however the Wizard Pro remembers that it was on. In turbo2, up to about 7A can cross these contacts and that <strong>is</strong> enough to cause problems. In particular, it's enough to ignite substances that are both conductive and highly flammable such as steel wool. This could be easily fixed by having the light turn off when it loses power, and Armytek should.</p>
<p>When loosening the tailcap as a lockout, it's a good idea to switch the light to firefly1, then turn it off. This still doesn't make a dangerous short <em>impossible</em>, but it becomes extremely unlikely.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/gDbN0zx.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/gDbN0zx.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Note that advertised runtimes are based on thermal throttling in the higher modes and these tests are water-cooled for modes that resulted in thermal throttling. This results in shorter runtimes. Runtimes do, however fall a little short even in modes that shouldn't throttle. Current readings were taken with full batteries and may be a little optimistic, as power draw will increase as the battery drains with a boost driver. All tests were conducted with an LG HG2 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted.</p>
<p><strong>Cool white</strong></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>50 years</td>
<td>6.8 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly1</td>
<td>0.15</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>200 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>37 days</td>
<td>3.42 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly2</td>
<td>1.5</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>21 days</td>
<td>6.02 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly3</td>
<td>5.5</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9 days</td>
<td>14.17 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main1</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>34</td>
<td>16</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>50 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>41 hours</td>
<td>73.0 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main2</td>
<td>165</td>
<td>161</td>
<td>39</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>10.5 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>7.45 hours</td>
<td>402.0 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main3</td>
<td>390</td>
<td>384</td>
<td>59</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/6WwQAkW.png">graph</a></td>
<td>4 hours</td>
<td>182 min</td>
<td>183 min</td>
<td>187 min</td>
<td>860 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>900</td>
<td>893</td>
<td>90</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/D6uaRZl.png">graph</a></td>
<td>100 minutes</td>
<td>63 min</td>
<td>64 min</td>
<td>68 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>1800</td>
<td>1720</td>
<td>122</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/MFPwGk3.png">graph</a></td>
<td>60 minutes</td>
<td>23 min</td>
<td>25 min</td>
<td>29 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><strong>Warm white</strong></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>54 years</td>
<td>6.4 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly1</td>
<td>0.14</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>200 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>38 days</td>
<td>3.33 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly2</td>
<td>1.4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>40 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>21 days</td>
<td>5.91 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly3</td>
<td>5</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>12 days</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>9 days</td>
<td>13.97 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main1</td>
<td>28</td>
<td>30</td>
<td>19</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>50 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>38 hours</td>
<td>78.9 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main2</td>
<td>154</td>
<td>121</td>
<td>38</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>10.5 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>8.62 hours</td>
<td>348.1 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main3</td>
<td>363</td>
<td>279</td>
<td>56</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4 hours</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>3.9 hours</td>
<td>767 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>837</td>
<td>645</td>
<td>87</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/R2qO9WH.png">graph</a></td>
<td>100 minutes</td>
<td>70 min</td>
<td>72 min</td>
<td>75 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>1675</td>
<td>1260</td>
<td>120</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/kasz8Pz.png">graph</a></td>
<td>60 minutes</td>
<td>26 min</td>
<td>28 min</td>
<td>32 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>While the cool white version was pretty close to advertised output, the warm white was not. Interestingly, this doesn't seem to be a matter of its efficiency being lower than predicted, but its <strong>current</strong>. Under most circumstances, I'd call being driven at less than the advertised level a flaw, but in practice, the warm white provided similar useful illumination and did it for longer without overheating. I'd rather have a Wizard Pro that isn't driven quite so hard, but I don't know that there's any consistent pattern to this.</p>
<p>In addition to the measurable current on lower levels, the cooled runtime and time to thermal stepdowns in higher modes indicates the warm model just isn't driven as hard.</p>
<p>Some more graphs (mode is turbo2 unless otherwise noted):</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/wxU4Kih.png">Cool tint, water-cooled, Armytek battery</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/P1owQBP.png">Warm tint, water-cooled, Armytek battery</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/XppC4Ks.png">Warm tint, uncooled, HG2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/VnKz4RX.png">Warm tint, fan-cooled, HG2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/sgnypJz.png">Warm tint, turbo1, uncooled, HG2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/eVwJZI4.png">Cool tint, uncooled, HG2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/h6OhGjM.png">Cool tint, turbo1, uncooled, HG2</a></li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/mNUKNTf.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/mNUKNTf.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Turbo2 generates a <strong>lot</strong> of heat and water cooling was necessary to generate these graphs. In all cases other than immersion in water, turbo2 is only sustainable for a few minutes before being significantly reduced. Real-world conditions outside of diving (not recommended despite the high submersion rating) or non-enclosed motorized vehicles in freezing weather are unlikely to prevent at least some thermal stepdown.</p>
<p>There is no sign of PWM on any mode.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/i7wUmnu.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/i7wUmnu.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>For pocket carry, the Wizard Pro is a bit bulky compared to some other right-angle lights. The pocket clip is intended for head-up carry, and most of the bulk is at the top where it's less noticeable. While usable, I think Wizards are better suited for use as headlamps, a role in which they excel.</p>
<p>The new plastic holder makes the Wizard's headband the most comfortable in the industry for a 1x18650 right-angle light. Pressure on my forehead is evenly distributed, and the light doesn't move around much even when running or jumping. To make it even better, it's usable with the pocket clip installed. I've always found removing the pocket clip when switching between pocket and headlamp use annoying, as the clip is likely to get lost. Though it's not quite the placement in the holder I think Armytek intends, installing the light this way causes no issues.</p>
<p>The pocket clip sits fairly deep. The head is a bit bulky for pocket carry, but not as bad as I expected when carried head-up. It's not really meant to be carried head-down. In some positions, the switch is a bit too easy to press by accident in the pocket, but in others, it's fine. I would recommend some experimentation if you want to pocket-carry a Wizard Pro. This light is, however at its best as a headlamp.</p>
<p>Of course, there are lighter weight headlamps on the market and users who are particularly sensitive to weight might prefer a less rugged model with a smaller battery.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/kjmnrWP.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/kjmnrWP.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Durability and reliability</h2>
<p>There have been some well-documented issues with Wizards prior to this generation cracking lenses and having driver reliability issues. I believe the lens cracking problem has been corrected. I subjected my test units to thermal stress by running them on turbo2 until the indicator light blinked red, then immediately dunking them in cold water, repeated 5 times each. There were no issues. Upon disassembly, I found a very thick O-ring between the bezel and the lens.</p>
<p>Additional features contributing to durability include a glass lens in front of the plastic TIR, a fully potted driver and double O-rings on the tailcap. I can't speak to all models and especially not the first XHP50 Wizards, but the current version with magnetic charging is one of the most heavily built lights I've struggled to disassemble.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/hQbuj2W.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/hQbuj2W.jpg"></a></p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The Wizard Pro uses a press-fit bezel that is very tight, and ribbed. I've taken apart a Zebralight with no noticeable impact on the finish, but that was not to be the case here. Getting the bezel out required a variety of razor blades, screwdrivers and similar, and securing the light in a vice. There was significant scratching and some gouging of the area around the bezel and the bezel itself. Some reports I've read suggest earlier Wizards are easier to get apart, but some of those had issues with lenses cracking.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/imd6vfG.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/imd6vfG.jpg"></a></p>
<p>After getting the first one open, I found a somewhat more effective strategy: place the Wizard in a vice, sharpen a screwdriver, then tap it between the bezel and the body with a small hammer, working around the whole bezel. It should then be loose enough to pry out with a more sturdy screwdriver without too much damage.</p>
<p>Once inside, I found heavily potted electronics and the XHP50 emitter on a fairly standard looking MCPCB. I was about to have something rather exotic: perhaps the world's first Wizard Pro with a Nichia 144A (4500K, 90+ CRI). Once I got the emitter flowed to its proprietary MCPCB with no shorts, installation was easy. I turned it on and got a beautiful beam, but it wasn't very bright compared to the XHP50. I measured about 800 lumens, which, when cooled it can maintain for 70 minutes. That's quite good efficiency - far better than a Zebralight H600Fd, for example, and with higher CRI. Very astute observers looking at the original MCPCB may have already figured out what was going on.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/HoR1Kzj.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/HoR1Kzj.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/jzoOT3P.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/jzoOT3P.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/4sDxuNa.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/4sDxuNa.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/1zYe998.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/1zYe998.jpg"></a></p>
<p>Armytek is running the XHP50 at 12V, which is configurable in the XHP50/70 by the pads on the MCPCB. As this boost driver is current-regulated, it has no trouble handling a 6V 144AM and offsets the efficiency penalty of the 144A's higher CRI. As turbo2 is a burst mode in most conditions with the XHP50 and reasonably easy to cool with the 144AM, I think this is worth it, but I'll be keeping my eye out for a 12V 144AR to get that wow factor back.</p>
<p>I've said it before, and now that I've tried it, I'll say it again even more emphatically: Armytek should be making a factory Wizard Pro 144A - one with the correct voltage for the driver, of course. It's a perfect match for the floody TIR optic and the light it produces is wonderful.</p>
<p>I moved the 144A to the harder-driven cool white host, which seemed like a great fit for its effective halving of drive current. When I pressed the bezels back in with a vice, I found the warm white host wasn't sitting as flat as I wanted, so I tried to tap the bezel down farther with a hammer. This cracked the lens. I'll be seeking a replacement for it eventually, but the 144A unit is sure to see more use.</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/gJbC5kV.jpg"><img src="https://imgur.com/gJbC5kV.jpg"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/XNfug34.jpg">144A beamshot</a></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>42 years</td>
<td>8.2 microamps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>41 days</td>
<td>3.02 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly2</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>25 days</td>
<td>5.02 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly3</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>11 days</td>
<td>11.35 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main1</td>
<td>14</td>
<td>11</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>90 hours</td>
<td>33.45 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main2</td>
<td>71</td>
<td>29</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>19 hours</td>
<td>157.3 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main3</td>
<td>178</td>
<td>45</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>478 min</td>
<td>376 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>428</td>
<td>71</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>161 min</td>
<td>1116 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>842</td>
<td>99</td>
<td><a href="https://imgur.com/QMJl3HM.png">graph</a></td>
<td>56 min</td>
<td>58 min</td>
<td>62 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>Review: Wuben T102, a large 1x26650 light with USB-C2017-07-07T00:00:00+00:002017-07-07T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-07-07:/wuben-t102.html<p>The Wuben T102 is a 1x26650 light with an XHP70 emitter, large reflector for respectable throw, sensor-based thermal regulation, USB-C charging and a boost driver that could provide stable output as the battery drains. Unfortunately, it doesn't, dropping to half output unless the battery is fresh off the charger.</p><p>This <a href="https://goo.gl/gAoyZo">Wuben T102</a> was provided by /u/swiling from Banggood for review. Use coupon code RD10OFF for 10% off regular-price flashlights at Banggood. The T102 is not in stock at present, and may not be restocked due to the pending introduction of a revised version.</p>
<p>The full image gallery is <a href="http://imgur.com/a/EcPCQ">here</a></p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Wuben T102 is a 1x26650 light with an XHP70 emitter, large reflector for respectable throw, sensor-based thermal regulation, USB-C charging and a boost driver that could provide stable output as the battery drains. Claimed output is 3200 lumens, but I measured over 4000. The tint is warmer than the claimed 6500K too - closer to 5500 to my eyes. The specs are a bit like a Convoy L6 with a shorter body and half the batteries. If you're already reaching for your credit card, slow down and read on.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/GguVg17.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/0qXrt3l.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/zacipRd.jpg</p>
<p>It sounds pretty good at a glance, but it isn't. It <strong>can</strong> make 4000 lumens, but the firmware really doesn't want it to do that. Despite having a thermal sensor, the T102 has a timed stepdown to just over 50% at 100 seconds regardless of cooling. You probably won't make it to 100 seconds though because there's also a low-voltage stepdown at 4.0V. Since batteries have some voltage sag under load, that means it needs to be fresh off the charger to not hit the low-voltage stepdown in 100 seconds. The included 5000 mAh 26650 will not make it to 100 seconds twice.</p>
<p>The user interface is also very badly designed. E-switches offer the potential of shortcuts to various modes from off, and sometimes from on. The T102 has only one such shortcut, to the mode I'm sure everyone will use most: strobe. A double-click from on or off activates strobe, which is extra convenient because single-clicks cycle through modes. Try to change regular modes too fast and you'll get the strobe mode you really wanted all along. Yes, you were trying to ask for low, but Wuben's programmers know best, you really wanted strobe. On/off with mode memory is a long press, but why bother with that when you could press twice faster and have strobe? There are no timed, voltage or thermal stepdowns on strobe either. You get full output until the low-voltage protection trips.</p>
<p>If you want a USB-rechargeable strobe light for your off-grid nightclub, the T102 may be for you. It's very good at that. It's not very good at much else though, which is incredibly frustrating because it <strong>could be</strong> a very good flashlight with a different firmware.</p>
<p>Instead, the T102 is like that one coworker we've all had. He does the job well at the start of the shift when the boss is watching, but as soon as the boss turns away, he's anything but productive, letting down everyone else on the team.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>USB-C charging port</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>All-inclusive, ready to use</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Tint and beam pattern are pretty good for an XHP70 light</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Very short timed stepdown</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Needless use of a timed stepdown in combination with a thermal sensor</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Absolutely ridiculous low-voltage stepdown on a near-full (4.0V) battery</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>E-switch light with no shortcuts to any useful modes from off</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Mode change often triggers strobe by accident</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Charging is very slow for a 26650 at only 1.0A despite having a 2A USB wall wart</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The T102 includes a Wuben branded 26650 battery, USB-C cable, USB charger with US and EU plugs and some spare o-rings in a fancy foam-padded case. The case is a nice premium touch, but a holster would have been more useful.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/5k6XQtM.jpg</p>
<h2>User interface</h2>
<p>My source for advertised specs is the <a href="www.wubenlight.com/Upload/pictures/20170323/2017032320562797.pdf">Wuben T102 manual</a>, which differs slightly from Banggood's product page. The user interface is as follows:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>On</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off or steady mode</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Blinky mode</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Previous state (steady mode or off)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Blinky mode</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Next blinky mode (strobe or SOS)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Steady mode</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Next steady mode (H -> L)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>It's easy to hit strobe by accident when trying to cycle through modes quickly. I'm usually of the opinion that single-clicks to move through modes in a light with a only a single e-switch isn't a good design, but it's especially bad in combination with double-click triggering an unwanted action. I know the tactical mall-ninja market likes quick access to strobe, but with no momentary and a <em>long-press</em> to turn it on, this is not a tactical light. Making the token feature aimed at that market the one that's the most useless and obnoxious to everyone else is an incredibly bad design decision.</p>
<p>There are not shortcuts to anything else, just a long-press to the last-used steady mode. I'll grant that designing good UIs is hard and there's no way to please everybody, but it would take active effort to do worse than this. Bad ideas for next April Fool's Day include "always start on SOS" and "must pass strobe to turn off". Wait, I think I've actually seen the last one before. Maybe the T102 doesn't have the absolute worst UI on the market.</p>
<p>It has <em>one</em> of them though, which is a shame since the hardware has everything it needs to be a fairly nice flashlight. There's no need to design a brand new UI for this light; Wuben could emulate the behavior of the open-source Narsil ramping firmware, fer example. The latest Thrunite Neutron <em>almost</em> does that and it sounds quite pleasant to use.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>I must apologize for the lack of throw numbers and lumens for the lower modes. It seems I failed to record them, and I don't have the T102 with me as I'm putting the finishing touches on the review.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>13</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>240h</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>139h</td>
<td>40mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Med</td>
<td>212</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>14.5h</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>14.4h</td>
<td>387mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>788</td>
<td>-</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/KXRomWj.png">graph</a></td>
<td>3.3h</td>
<td>3.6h</td>
<td>3.6h</td>
<td>3.6h</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo</td>
<td>3200</td>
<td>4000</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/QePSyoI.png">graph</a></td>
<td>1.3h</td>
<td>1 minute</td>
<td>31 minutes</td>
<td>42 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>3200</td>
<td>4000</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/gpBDpN4.png">graph</a></td>
<td>-</td>
<td>92 minutes</td>
<td>92 minutes</td>
<td>92 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Yes, that's right, I included a runtime graph for strobe. This light seems to want so strongly to be on strobe, given that's it's only shortcut from off that I made a graph. It reveals that the driver is, in fact capable of maintaining more or less full output until it hits the low-voltage protection at about 3.0V. The driver performance seems to be pretty good - if only the firmware would let it stretch its legs.</p>
<p>My tests show the T102 beating its advertised output at 30 seconds on max. That's not much good for extended use though because the fun is over at 100 seconds. The stepdowns are ramped to make them less obvious, but the reduction in throw is easy to notice as objects in the distance quickly fade from view.</p>
<p>To test the stepdown behavior, I tried continually resetting the light. This was the result:</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/y6jQhb9.png</p>
<p>The period of full output becomes shorter as the voltage drops, eventually becoming zero. I measured this to be at about 3.97V.</p>
<p>To prove that this is voltage, rather than temperature related, I overcharged the battery to 4.35V. A minor overcharge like this poses no acute danger, but does cause as much wear to the battery as several normal charge cycles. This got me almost five minutes of full output before it started to ramp down immediately, just as giving that lazy coworker amphetamines might temporarily improve his productivity.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/6CRvOU8.png</p>
<p>There is no sign of PWM on any mode.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/AwWtCGb.jpg</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The T102 feels good in the hand. The switch is easy to access from multiple grips, and easy to find, being situated on a raised flat. It's a reasonable size and shape for a belt holster, but none is included. There's no anti-roll. The tailcap has a threaded hole for a tripod mount and can tailstand on a flat surface.</p>
<h2>Battery and charging</h2>
<p>The included Wuben branded 26650 is an unprotected flat-top labeled as having IMR chemistry. Its capacity tested at 5573 mAh on my Opus BT-C100. The onboard USB-C charger and included power supply charge the battery in about 6 hours and appear to terminate properly. An indicator light under the switch glows red during charging and blue when charging is complete. The battery indicator is not available except when the light is charging. It would be useful to have during operation.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/qdkmv2p.jpg</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The bezel unscrews easily with a firm grip or strap wrench, and there's nothing at all surprising about what's underneath. Replacing this XHP70 with most other larger 6V emitters would be about as easy as you'd expect. Unfortunately, the emitter isn't what really needs changing on the T102.</p>
<p>I couldn't get to the driver. The head doesn't want to unscrew from the body tube; I'm net sure if it's glued, or actually not screwed together. Removing the switch doesn't grant useful access either.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/c5B4d8H.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/BlovUHY.jpg</p>Review: Haikelite MT-01, a 3x18650 workhorse2017-06-27T00:00:00+00:002017-06-27T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-06-27:/haikelite-mt01.html<p>The Haikelite MT-01 is a 3x18650 general-purpose light the size of a Red Bull can. Its large battery capacity and stable output make it a good choice for extended use. It also provides the option of using fewer 18650s if necessary.</p><p>This <a href="https://goo.gl/zTSnRb">Haikelite MT-01</a> was provided by /u/swiling of Banggood for review. Use coupon code ccc3c5 to get the MT01 for $40.95.</p>
<p>Some extra images are in the <a href="http://imgur.com/a/LcJch">album</a>.</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Haikelite MT01 is a 3x18650 light slightly larger than a Red Bull can using the brand new Cree XHP50.2 emitter to make an advertised 2500 lumens. While a comparison to the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/66dcg1/klarus_g30_review_with_runtime_graphs/">Klarus G30</a> I reviewed recently is obvious, the two are significantly different. The MT-01 has considerably more throw and a more tightly defined hotspot. Named "Trekker" by the manufacturer, the MT-01 is the first Haikelite with a name that makes sense; the previous two models were called "Buffalo" and "Devourer", but the MT-01 seems like a good light to bring on a trek.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/7Y9a8pc.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/4wOCPwN.jpg</p>
<p>Like the G30, the MT-01 isn't a numbers light. There are smaller lights with more peak output, and many lights with more throw. The MT-01 is a light to use for extended periods of time that's unlikely to do anything surprising. In fact, the lack of surprising behavior could be a significant selling point for the MT-01; it can be safely operated with less knowledge of proper Li-ion battery care than many competing options. That's because the MT-01 has its batteries in a parallel configuration, which lessens the risks from using mismatched batteries and allows operation on one, two or three 18650s. Users should note that mismatched batteries are still inadvisable and use of maximum output on a single 18650 may be a bit hard on the battery. All 18650s I tried fit and made contact, regardless of whether they were flat or button top, protected or unprotected.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/AKrDgSj.jpg</p>
<p>A single press of the button turns the light on in the last-used steady more, or off if it's one. Press-and-hold from on cycles through four well-spaced modes in a low to high order. A double-click from on or off triggers strobe, and a single click from strobe returns to the last-used steady mode. There are no shortcuts to useful modes like high or low from off, just strobe. Basic operation will be easy for all users to pick up without instruction, but the MT-01 would be better if it used the UI from the MT-03, which does have shortcuts from off to low and high and does not have a strobe mode. Loosening the head a quarter turn locks out operation mechanically.</p>
<p>The beam on this neutral white example of the MT-01 does have significant tint shift from the spill, through the corona to the hotspot. The spill appears cool white with some purple in it; the corona is yellow-green; the hotspot is a fairly pure 5000K white. Cree's latest emitters, including the XHP50.2, XP-G3 and XP-L2 are known for this sort of uneven tint, which might explain why Haikelite just introduced a model using the older, much less efficient MT-G2. Outdoors, the tint shift is less visible, but still noticeable if you're looking for it. Tint snobs will be happier with the G30, but the simplicity, versalitily, throw and efficiency make a good case for the MT-01.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/kweUYtv.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/4hkZKU5.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/2uS6NiG.jpg</p>
<p>Build quality is solid. Everything fits together well, it handles immersion in water with no issues, the threads are smooth and my sample lacked obvious tool marks. The overall appearance is a bit reminiscent of an oversized Zebralight, while the matte finish looks and feels more like an Armytek product. It's not as thick as Armytek's anodizing though, and mine has visible bare spots in the finish from relatively light use. There's a protrusion on the tailcap that provides a lanyard hole and makes the MT-01 worse at tailstanding.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/kTVaA8e.jpg</p>
<p>The MT-01 is a solid choice for a larger all-around light, especially for $40.95. Products from more established brands with similar performance often sell for $100 or more.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Stable, sustainable maximum output</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Beginner-friendly user interface</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Useful beam pattern for outdoor environments</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Parallel battery configuration is flexible and somewhat forgiving of mistakes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Efficiency and runtime are excellent</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Low-voltage protection</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No shortcuts to useful modes from off</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Tint is uneven across the beam</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Greenish corona isn't very nice</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Finish has poor durability</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Could be better at tailstanding</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The MT-01 comes in a plastic case with foam padding. Two spare O-rings are included, which are not the same size. There's a lanyard with a clip on it, but it fits the lanyard hole on the light poorly. An instruction sheet, printed or photocopied on A4 paper is provided.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/0QHjSDS.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/MPcVskg.jpg</p>
<p><a href="http://imgur.com/K1BJdAy">Haikelite MT-01 manual</a></p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Last-used steady mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Steady mode</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycle through steady modes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Last-used steady mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click + hold</td>
<td>Lockout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lockout</td>
<td>Double-click + hold</td>
<td>Last-used steady mode</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>There is no PWM on any mode.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All runtime testing was performed with LG HG2 3000 mAh 18650 batteries. Haikelite's advertised numbers are with unspecified batteries. Output numbers are from <a href="http://haikelite.top/index.php/products/haikelite-mt01-trekker-xhp50-v2.html">Haikelite's product page</a>, which differs slightly from the Banggood product page.</p>
<p>I've revised my calibration for testing lumens and candela slightly using numbers maukka provided for lights we both own. Using the new calibration, the Klarus G30 makes 2091 lumens and 229m FL1 throw on max.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Advertised Lumens</th>
<th>Estimated Lumens</th>
<th>FL1 throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Advertised Runtime</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>4.9 years</td>
<td>70.1 μA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Low</td>
<td>50</td>
<td>26</td>
<td>38m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>75h</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>138h</td>
<td>65 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Med</td>
<td>250</td>
<td>284</td>
<td>142m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>15h</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>27h</td>
<td>324 mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>High</td>
<td>850</td>
<td>1027</td>
<td>240m</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/5F8S8IO">graph</a></td>
<td>5h</td>
<td>234 min</td>
<td>242 min</td>
<td>242 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Max</td>
<td>2500</td>
<td>2227</td>
<td>350m</td>
<td><a href="http://imgur.com/Kuw3ccQ">graph</a></td>
<td>105 min</td>
<td>75 min</td>
<td>75 min</td>
<td>125 min</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Efficiency, based on 10.5 Wh per HG2 is estimated at 100lm/W on max and 129lm/W on high. It's probably slightly better because the termination voltage is higher than the tests that put the HG2 at 10.5 Wh.</p>
<p>There's no thermal regulation, and extended use in warm, still air can result in the body becoming uncomfortably warm to hold on the highest mode. Modest air movement as would be seen in most outdoor use is sufficient to keep the body temperature tolerable.</p>
<p>There are some small stepdowns in max mode that appear to be voltage based, but output stays over 88% until the first major stepdown. That stepdown is signified by a gentle ramp down to near 0, followed by a rebound to 26%. After about 30 minutes, a constant, gentle pulsing indicates a shutdown is imminent. Low-voltage protection trips around 3.2V, a conservative figure.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The matte finish and mild checkering provide a secure grip under most conditions. It's fairly easy to find the button by feel, as it's located on the only flat area of the head. The button has fairly low tactile feedback, but no useful functions of the MT-01 are timing-based. The latest models appear to have a metal button instead of the rubber button on my sample, as well as some other minor cosmetic changes.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The MT-01 is fairly modification-friendly. The bezel is easily removed with a strap wrench, giving access to the lens, machined aluminum reflector and emitter/MCPCB. It's a 20mm copper MCPCB similar in appearance to a Sinkpad. I didn't remove it this time around as I don't have a replacement emitter. It's configured for 6 volts, so any XHP50, XHP50.2 or XM-L2 Easywhite should be a direct swap. The Nichia 144A should work well given an appropriate MCPCB for those who want better color quality, though those don't produce a particularly nice beam in some reflectors. I will be testing in this one at some point. Without a centering ring, an XHP70 or XHP70.2 would probably also work. The stock reflector probably won't fit an MT-G2. I will try a 144A in this light when I manage to get one and report on how that works.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/xCxu4cS.jpg</p>
<p>The driver is also easy to access, simply by unscrewing the retaining ring in the head. It's an LD-35, a fairly well-known boost driver in the hobbyist flashlight world. This version appears to have some minor changes from older versions of the LD-35. I suspect a change to the sense resistor and possibly swapping out the main FET would result in increased output. I'm not sure increased output is especially desirable since it would increase heat much faster than perceived brightness. Some people do love chasing numbers though.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/r2vvD5u.jpg</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/eCNf4bg.jpg</p>
<p>The use of an off-the-shelf driver explains the difference in UI with other Haikelite products. I haven't found any third-party firmwares for this driver. Even so, using a well-known driver with established characteristics gives me more confidence in this light from a very new manufacturer.</p>Review: Fenix TK25 R&B, an 18650 flashlight with high-output red and blue secondary emitters2017-06-13T00:00:00+00:002017-06-13T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-06-13:/fenix-tk25rb.html<p>The TK25 R&B is an unconventional design with a rotating head to switch between two white, and one each red and blue emitters. It offers very high red and blue output, but no low-output modes to preserve dark adaptation. It's intended for hunting animals that don't react to red light, and following blood trails with blue. It should work well for that application, though better color quality for the white emitters would be most welcome.</p><p>This <a href="http://fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=2245&tid=8&cid=1">TK25 R&B</a> was provided by Fenix for review.</p>
<p>A <a href="http://imgur.com/a/HtMd6">full album</a> is available with extra pictures that may not be linked here.</p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>A request I see on occasion is a light with both white and colored emitters. There are a few options on the market, though many have only low-powered colored emitters, or a single color in a high-powered emitter. The TK25 R&B is a 1x18650/2xCR123 answer to this request from Fenix. It has high-power Cree XP-E2 emitters in both red and blue. Fenix tells me the TK25 R&B is marketed toward hunters, and indeed, I've seen a few people ask for red light to avoid spooking animals and blue light for following blood trails.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/q6ZdDho.jpg</p>
<p>Advertised white output is a fairly average 1000 lumens and 225m FL1 throw. My estimates came in a bit higher, but what's really interesting is that output on the highest mode is stable for a while; most similar lights start losing output immediately on the highest mode and show considerable variation in output with different batteries. The light has excellent efficiency at 96lm/w on max. Both red and blue are very bright in practice, and much more effective than their respective 150 and 60 lumen ratings would suggest. In a new direction for Fenix, the TK25 R&B has no timed stepdowns. Instead, there's a thermal sensor, which is fairly generous about how warm the light is allowed to get. It never gets to a dangerous level, but it can become uncomfortable to grip tightly with bare hands. The manual claims the target temperature is 65C, which seems about right.</p>
<p>Operation is similar to some other Fenix dual-tailswitch lights with the main switch being a forward-clicky with half-press for momentary and full-press to lock on. The mode switch cycles through four brightness levels in a low to high order when on and activates a momentary strobe from off. A long-press of the mode switch when the light is on also activates strobe. The last-used steady mode is memorized. The tint is unapologetically cool white, but lacks any notable off-colors. Rotating the head a quarter turn in either direction puts the TK25 R&B in color mode. There is no memory in color mode; high-red is always first. The mode order is high-red, low-red, blue. The mode switch, from off also triggers high-red momentarily. High-red is very bright, and I wish there was a way to start in low-red, as red is often used to preserve night-vision or avoid attracting attention, and high-red won't do either.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/ptRvloV.jpg</p>
<p>Both buttons are fairly proud, and I found myself accidentally starting the light in strobe by pressing the mode switch just before the power switch on more than one occasion. There is no reliable way to lock out activation with a battery installed, and the light lacks low-voltage protection. The manual recommends Fenix brand protected 18650s.</p>
<p>For those who want powerful red, white and blue lights in the same light, the TK25 R&B is one of the few options on the market. The build quality and driver efficiency are excellent, and the light performs better than advertised. There won't be any surprises other than occasionally activating strobe by accident - an artifact, I think of this light's relation to the TK25 IR, a light with infrared secondary emitters marketed for tactical use. I do wish Fenix had chosen neutral white emitters for this light, as the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/5yjqcr/poll_preferred_color_temperature/">vast majority</a> expressing an opinion prefer neutral white, and Fenix does promote its more accurate color rendering as a benefit on other models.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Powerful red and blue secondary emitters</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Operation is easy to understand without instructions</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent efficiency on white</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Stable output for several minutes on maximum mode without a boost driver</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Solid build quality, typical of Fenix products</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent <a href="http://imgur.com/9bqCOWQ">waterproofing</a>, even when rotating the head under water</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No timed stepdownws</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Cool white only</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>None of the modes are low enough to preserve night-vision</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Color modes always start on red-high, which is too bright for many of the applications red is used for</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No low-voltage protection</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>No lockout</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Easy to activate strobe by accident</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The TK25 R&B includes a <a href="http://imgur.com/NjW7DsE.jpg">holster</a>, lanyard, pocket clip, spare o-rings and a user manual. The holster has a velcro belt loop that can be attached to MOLLE gear and a velcro adjustable retention strap.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/LNZhO8q</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>For white:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Half-press power switch</td>
<td>Momentary (mode memory)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Full-press power switch</td>
<td>On (mode memory)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Momentary strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Mode switch, then power switch at the same time</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Power switch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Next mode (L -> H)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press mode switch</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Last-used steady mode</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>For color, selected by rotating the head either direction:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Half-press power switch</td>
<td>Momentary (red-high)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Full-press power switch</td>
<td>Red-high</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Momentary (red-high)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Power switch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Mode switch</td>
<td>Next mode (red-high, red-low, blue)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>All tests were performed with an LG HG2 high-drain 3000 mAh 18650 battery unless otherwise noted. Advertised runtimes are with a Fenix 3500 mAh 18650 battery.</p>
<p>Mode | Advertised Lumens | Estimated Lumens | FL1 throw | Graph | Advertised Runtime| Time to 80% | Time to 50% | Time to 10% | Tailcap current
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
Low | 15 | 15 | 31m | - | 110h | 88h (calculated) | - | - | 34mA
Medium | 100 | 117 | 85m | - | 22.3h | 16h (calculated) | - | - | 190mA
High | 300 | 353 | 172m | <a href="http://imgur.com/F1miut2">graph</a> | 320 min | 225 min | 225 min | 234 min | 617mA
Turbo | 1000 | 1172 | 278m | <a href="http://imgur.com/FxAnZZr">graph</a> | 120 min | 28 min | 58 min | 80 min | -
Red-high | 150 | - | - | <a href="http://imgur.com/skUltUO">graph</a> | 7.5h | 233 min | 233 min | 233 min | 820mA
Red-low | 25 | - | - | - | 110h | 39h (calculated) | - | - | 76mA
Blue | 60 | - | - | <a href="http://imgur.com/i4O4sgg">graph</a> | 6.6h | 220 min | 242 min | 253 min | 671mA</p>
<p>Oddly, the low-voltage stepdown in the blue mode is red-low. This light really seems to want to be red.</p>
<p>Time to 10% with a Fenix 3500 mAh battery was <a href="http://imgur.com/QAvsbKK">113 minutes</a>, very close to advertised. <a href="http://imgur.com/hkIpjFc">Uncooled runtime</a> shows some throttling around 12 minutes, but output remains high with nearly an hour to 50%.</p>
<p>The light discharged an unprotected laptop pull below 2.5V, and while clearly capable of reducing output in response to low voltage, does not shut off. There appears to be no standby drain.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The TK25 is comfortable in the hand and lightweight for its size, perhaps in part due to its plastic reflector. Both buttons are very proud and easy to press even with gloves on, though the lanyard loop can get in the way on occasion. Rotating the head is possible one-handed, but easier with two. Four emitters and a rotating head/reflector system do take up some space, and the head is bulky for a light with modest throw. It's better not to use the pocket clip and carry this light in a holster or jacket pocket.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/897lyUl</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>With four emitters, two of them cool white, modifying the TK25 R&B was too big a temptation to pass up. Even better, with such stable output from a buck driver even given high-forward-voltage XP-G2 emitters, there's a significant improvement possible. People who read my posts probably know <a href="http://imgur.com/F0F2Bys">what's coming</a>.</p>
<p>The bezel is <a href="http://imgur.com/Ra4j2U8">glued</a> in place. I had to dunk it in hot water before twisting quite hard with a strap wrench. There are o-rings on both sides of the lens, providing excellent waterproofing. The reflector is <a href="http://imgur.com/NPBrKKs">plastic</a>. The MCPCB is <a href="http://imgur.com/4jmNPdG">copper</a>, and the application of thermal paste was respectable.</p>
<p>All the emitters are XP/219 profile, though red emitters have very low forward voltage, and I'm not sure how the driver would respond to something else in their place. XP-Es come in many colors, so there are a lot of potential options for substitution. No colors came to mind that I'd have more use for than red and blue though, so they stayed. The cool white XP-G2s <a href="http://imgur.com/AMuU1jo">did not</a>.</p>
<p>5000K, 80 CRI Nichia 219Cs are <a href="http://imgur.com/hi1uLiz">beautiful</a> on a white wall, and <a href="http://imgur.com/3lRP3A9">awesome</a> outdoors. Output was reduced by about 15% to 1024 lumens, and throw to 224m. Output doesn't tell the whole story though, and <a href="http://imgur.com/XY3ufId">this graph</a> makes it clear why this is the right emitter for the TK25 series: 41 minutes to 80% starting from over 1000 lumens <strong>without a boost driver</strong> on one 18650. I've never seen that before. It's 56 minutes to 50% and 69 minutes to 10%.</p>Review: Armytek Prime C2 Pro XHP35, a versatile 18650 EDC light2017-05-11T00:00:00+00:002017-05-11T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-05-11:/armytek-prime-c2-pro.html<p>The Armytek Prime C2 Pro XHP35 is an 18650-powered EDC light with 8 brightness levels, shortcuts to low, medium, high, and last-used from off, a removable magnet in the tailcap and a choice of color temperature. It only has one major issue: the optic it comes with was not designed for the LED it uses, resulting in terrible output and efficiency. A third-party optic fixes this.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/outdoor-and-camping/armytek-prime-c2-pro/prime-c2-pro-v3.-silver.-xhp35-warm.html">Armytek Prime C2 Pro XHP35 (warm)</a> was provided by Armytek for review. Use coupon code RED at http://armytek.com and http://armytek.ca for 10% off regular-price flashlights. There is an active promotion on Prime models, and this model is currently $74.70 instead of the usual $90.</p>
<p>Many photos and beamshots in the <a href="http://imgur.com/a/3ZaWw">album</a></p>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The Prime C2 Pro XHP35 is the most powerful, and most expensive model in Armytek's EDC line. It uses a single 18650 Li-ion battery, two CR123s or two 16340 or 18350 Li-ions and features a well-designed UI offering shortcuts to low, medium and high modes from off. Other models in the Prime line can use one or two AA batteries or one CR123. All Primes offer a choice of cool ("white") or warm tint; this is the warm version.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/K6gJmCD.jpg</p>
<p>This version of the Prime is a bit long for a 1x18650 side switch light at 124mm, but it's not hard to see why. There's a large, very strong removable rare-earth magnet in the tail, with its own compartment and screw-off cap. The bezel is very deep, giving more protection for the lens. The battery tube is long to accomodate significant variations in battery length. The spring is long and stiff to ensure reliable contact even if the light is shaken, though there can be some side to side rattle. The threads on the battery tube are longer than most lights, and there are dual O-rings for improved waterproofing. The Prime is longer than most of its competition, but it gains ruggedness and versatility for it. I think that's a fair trade, but it may not be the light for someone with shallow pockets. For me, this length is comfortable for pocket carry. The pocket clip is quite secure, though it can require some wiggling to fully insert into a pocket. The finish is a matte annodizing that provides good grip. While thick and tough, it did scuff a bit under the pocket clip.</p>
<p><a href="http://imgur.com/pxC5GCs">Comparison with other lights</a> - Convoy S6, Convoy S3, Zebralight SC63w, Prime, Thrunite TN12</p>
<p>The XHP35 emitter is rare in smaller lights, as it requires either four Li-ion cells or a boost driver to power it. The Prime's boost driver is highly effective, maintaining stable output in all modes as long as the light isn't overheating and the battery can handle it. The manual recommends batteries rated for 7A or more, but the light detects, and reduces output to protect batteries when voltage drops too rapidly. Armytek's protected 3400 mAh cell, almost certainly based on a Panasonic NCR18650B cannot. The protection doesn't trip, but the light starts throttling output after about 10 minutes due to the voltage sag such a high load puts on the battery. </p>
<p>http://imgur.com/qnvLJCI.jpg</p>
<p>Heat is an issue on the highest mode; my usual fan cooling was insufficient to prevent some small thermal stepdowns. I ended up testing with the light submerged in water to see if the driver could really maintain full output. It could, but real-world situations in which that much cooling is available are rare. The Prime is not intended for use as a dive light, but showed no signs of leaking during its underwater runtime tests. Maximum output is best thought of as a burst mode usable briefly with the second-highest "turbo1" mode as the default high.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/733axqZ.jpg</p>
<p>The tint of this emitter is very unusual. Complaints about green off-tints in lights using a domed XHP35 emitter have been common since its introduction, but there's none of that here. This is the rosiest white LED I've ever seen, exceeding even the famously rosy Nichia 219B sw45k. /u/maukka is testing the same model and shared some data with me: 4050K, 73 CRI and a chromaticity coordinate putting it in Cree's 5R tint bin. We both got lumen numbers lower than advertised, and his, with more precise and better-calibrated equipment were lower than mine. The beam is a little ringy on a white wall, but I didn't notice it using the light outdoors.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/HPTDR4C.jpg</p>
<p>The user interface is one of my favorites in the whole flashlight industry. A single click turns the light on in the last-used mode, or off. Double-click is medium. Triple-click is high. Quad-click is blinky. Long-press from on cycles through the sub-modes of the current group. Long-press from off starts in the lowest mode and then steps through all modes except for the highest. Blinky modes are strobe, high beacon and medium beacon. There's also a momentary-only "tactical" mode using the last-used mode, accessed by holding down the button while loosening the tailcap.</p>
<p>Overall, I really like this light and would recommend it to anyone who wants a reliable, durable, versatile flashlight, as long as they're not a tint snob.</p>
<ul>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Great user interface</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Robust build quality</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Strong magnet holds securely to steel surfaces</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent output stability</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Good thermal regulation</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Excellent protection for batteries</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>All 18650s fit and make contact reliably, even when the light is shaken</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Very low minimum mode</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Great mode spacing</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Essentially zero standby drain</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Advertised output may be a little optimistic</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Pink tint</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Ringy beam</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Very long for a side-switch light</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<ul>
<li>Battery rattle</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>Included with the light are a holster, lanyard ring that installs under the magnet cap, lanyard, pocket clip and two spare o-rings. The holster has a plain belt loop with no velcro, and elastic sides. It's adequate for basic use, but doesn't attach to MOLLE.</p>
<p>http://imgur.com/tVFpMPR.jpg</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>There are 8 regular brightness levels split into three mode groups, which the manual calls "firefly", "main" and "turbo". I'd call them low medium and high, but I'll use the manual's terminology here for consistency.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>State</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>Result</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Last-used mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short-press</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Firefly1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Longer-press</td>
<td>Ramps up through all modes, stopping when the button is released or at turbo1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long-press</td>
<td>Cycles through each mode in the current group</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Double-click</td>
<td>Last-used medium mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Triple-click</td>
<td>Last-used turbo mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Any</td>
<td>Quadruple-click</td>
<td>Last-used blinky mode</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>While the Prime does have a lot of modes and a somewhat large number of UI actions, I find this UI intuitive in practice and rarely get unwanted results. It's always possible to get to lower modes without passing higher modes and to get to the turbo group quickly when desired. If last-used in a reasonable mode, the Prime can be handed to others with no instructions and they'll be able to turn it on and off.</p>
<p>A status light under the switch blinks green, yellow or red every few seconds when the light is on to show the battery level. This can be enabled when the light is off by loosening the tailcap, holding the button, tightening the tailcap, loosening it again, then releasing the button. Repeating this process disables it. When the light is warm, the indicator light uses three rapid blinks in yellow in place of the single blink. Hotter still and the blinks become red.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>Runtime in the maximum mode depends greatly on cooling. I don't think moderately cool or windy conditions would be sufficient to maintain maximum output for more than a few minutes. The cooling fan I've been able to use to keep every light aside from a FET triple from overheating was insufficient to prevent some stepdowns with the Prime. Immersion in water was the only way I could keep it from stepping down, but extreme cold and wind or rain might also prevent stepdowns.</p>
<p>Output is reduced if the battery voltage drops too rapidly, as is likely when the maximum mode is used with a low-drain battery like the popular Panasonic NCR18650B on which most 3400 mAh 18650s, including Armytek's are based. Medium to high drain batteries such as the Sanyo NCR18650GA, LG HG2 and Samsung 30Q are better-suited to this light. When the battery hits about 3.0V, the output is reduced until the voltage rebounds. If it does not, the main LED blinks once to let the user know the light will soon step down to its lowest output. It can maintain firefly1 on a low battery for many hours before shutting off completely at about 2.6V to avoid over-discharging the battery.</p>
<p>I measured output and throw using Ceilingbounce on my Nexus 5 and an integrating shoebox calibrated using other lights with reasonably trustworthy output numbers. I will be recalibrating with data from maukka for future tests, but these are with the old calibration. With more precise and better calibrated equipment than I have, maukka has measured numbers lower than I did here for the same model. If it was just my own crude measurements, I'd be hesitant to call this light out for underperforming, but with maukka getting even lower numbers, I think it's fair. The intensity I measured does match the claimed throw. These are the claimed outputs:</p>
<ul>
<li>Firefly1: 0.15lm</li>
<li>Firefly2: 1.7lm</li>
<li>Firefly3: 6lm</li>
<li>Main1: 35lm</li>
<li>Main2: 180lm</li>
<li>Main3: 420lm</li>
<li>Turbo1: 950lm</li>
<li>Turbo2: 1581lm, 187m FL1 throw</li>
</ul>
<p>Measured output and runtime are as follows, conducted with an LG HG2 3000 mAh high-drain 18650 unless otherwise noted:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Lumens</th>
<th>FL1 throw</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Time to 80%</th>
<th>Time to 50%</th>
<th>Time to 10%</th>
<th>Tailcap current</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Standby</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>45 years</td>
<td>45 years</td>
<td>45 years</td>
<td>7.5 uA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly1</td>
<td>0.15 (claimed)</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~201 days</td>
<td>~201 days</td>
<td>~201 days</td>
<td>0.62mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly2</td>
<td>1.7 (claimed)</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~37 days</td>
<td>~37 days</td>
<td>~37 days</td>
<td>3.41mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firefly3</td>
<td>6 (claimed)</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~11 days</td>
<td>~11 days</td>
<td>~11 days</td>
<td>11.22mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main1</td>
<td>34 (measured)</td>
<td>29m</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~38 hours</td>
<td>~38 hours</td>
<td>~38 hours</td>
<td>78.5mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main2</td>
<td>138 (measured)</td>
<td>58m</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/C10JAgt.png">link</a></td>
<td>503 minutes</td>
<td>505 minutes</td>
<td>541 minutes</td>
<td>352mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Main3</td>
<td>312 (measured)</td>
<td>87m</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/FNiT2e2.png">link</a></td>
<td>202 minutes</td>
<td>203 minutes</td>
<td>237 minutes</td>
<td>775mA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>696</td>
<td>132m</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/YHXeTsE.png">link</a></td>
<td>72 minutes</td>
<td>74 minutes</td>
<td>77 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>1299</td>
<td>186m</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/ctlVr5x.png">link</a></td>
<td>26 minutes</td>
<td>28 minutes</td>
<td>32 minutes</td>
<td>-</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Current was measured with a battery over 4.1V and will be higher at low voltage because the Prime has a boost driver, so these estimates may be a little optimistic.</p>
<p>As the high modes vary greatly on cooling and batteries, here are some other test conditions:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Mode</th>
<th>Cooling</th>
<th>Battery</th>
<th>Graph</th>
<th>Minutes to 80%</th>
<th>Minutes to 50%</th>
<th>Minutes to 10%</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>Water</td>
<td>Armytek 3400</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/j6YPa5u.png">link</a></td>
<td>17</td>
<td>35</td>
<td>51</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>Fan</td>
<td>LG</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/qAKHC9k.png">link</a></td>
<td>30</td>
<td>32</td>
<td>35</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo1</td>
<td>None</td>
<td>LG</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/2VSbUBc.png">link</a></td>
<td>3</td>
<td>3.5/6/10</td>
<td>86</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>Fan</td>
<td>LG</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/YHXeTsE.png">link</a></td>
<td>72</td>
<td>74</td>
<td>77</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Turbo2</td>
<td>None</td>
<td>LG</td>
<td><a href="http://i.imgur.com/hrUwQsR.png">link</a></td>
<td>77</td>
<td>79</td>
<td>81</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>And some other graphs:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://i.imgur.com/hV7ivS2.png">Cooling test</a> - Turbo1, fan cooling applied at 10 minutes. Output ramps back up to over 80% as the temperature drops.</li>
<li><a href="http://i.imgur.com/LtXTgEZ.png">2 minutes of Turbo1 on a laptop pull</a> - throttles to a bit over 80%, voltage was 3.90 at the end of the test.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Beam and tint</h2>
<p>The tint is very rosy, a 5R tint bin according to Cree's chart. According to maukka, CRI is 73, about average for neutral/warm LEDs with unspecified CRI. Color temperature is 4050K. It noticeably washes out greens in favor of reds and browns and sometimes makes white objects look pink. I find it more pleasant than green off-tints or cool whites over 6000K, but this amount of red is still an off-tint that hurts color quality.</p>
<p>The TIR optic produces a beam similar to that of a reflector, but has more prominent rings than most reflectors. Both intensity and color vary in the rings. This isn't nearly as noticeable outside as it is on a white wall though, and I wouldn't consider it a major complaint.</p>
<p>Overall the beam is a bit of a disappointment on an otherwise excellent flashlight.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics</h2>
<p>The Prime is a little long, but feels good in the hand and is still shorter than most tailswich lights. The finish has a matte texture a bit like a chalkboard. It provides good grip, wet or dry, with or without gloves. I like it, but I've seen one or two people write that they do not. The switch is easy to find by feel, and there's a notch on the opposite side of the head that's a natural place to put a finger. The pocket clip is secure, and overall, this is a comfortable light to carry and use. The button requires a firm press and has never activated by accident in the time I've had the light. Unscrewing the tailcap a quarter turn provides a mechanical lockout for those who want to be sure.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>This Prime, having a 12V emitter is limited in its emitter swap options. Other XHP35s would work. With a different MCPCB and <em>possibly</em> a different TIR optic, 12V versions of the XHP50, XHP50.2 and Nichia 144A would work. TIRs with different beam characteristics are available and could be installed without much difficulty. I can't imagine wanting to change anything about the driver.</p>
<p>Getting to these components requires removing the bezel though, and it's screwed in very tight. There's not much to grip from the outside. I tried a strap wrench without success. There are three divots in the bezel, and a custom tool, or possibly an adjustable pin spanner wrench could be used to unscrew it. I eventually used vice grips, which slightly marred the finish.</p>
<p>Emitter swaps are somewhat difficult as the MCPCB is held down with rivets. If the rivets are drilled out, I recommend using thermal glue rather than non-adhesive paste to hold down the MCPCB.</p>
<p>This <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1285133#comment-1285133">BLF post</a> has information on problems with the factory optic. It wastes about 40% of the light, resulting in huge improvements from using a Yajiamei optic appropriate for the LED.</p>Review: Klarus G30, a 3x18650 workhorse2017-04-19T00:00:00+00:002017-04-19T00:00:00+00:00Zaktag:zakreviews.com,2017-04-19:/klarus-g30.html<p>The Klarus G30 is a light for extended use. Its 900 lumen mode lasts 3.5 hours with no change in brightness over time. It's predictable, reliable, and better for getting work done than showing off. I don't care for the user interface with long-press for off and a high chance of accidental strobe, but this is a light meant to be turned on and left on for a long time, making the UI less of a concern than on an EDC light.</p><p>This <a href="https://goo.gl/8UNa0d">Klarus G30</a> was provided by /u/swiling from Banggood for review. Use coupon code 5b952c to get the G30 for $60 (40% off) with free shipping to almost anywhere in the world and coupon code RD10OFF for 10% off regular-price flashlights at Banggood.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://imgur.com/a/ILlW9">All photos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://imgur.com/EfRxomq.jpg">Klarus G30 manual</a></li>
</ul>
<h1>Quick Review</h1>
<p>The <a href="http://imgur.com/31KgjhZ.jpg">G30</a> is a 3x18650 tube-shaped light about the size of a <a href="http://imgur.com/XcfVRz2.jpg">Red Bull can</a>. It uses a neutral white Cree MT-G2 to produce 2450 lumens on its highest mode with a large hotspot and bright spill. Today, there are soup can lights that put out over 9000 lumens and smaller 1x26650 lights that reach 3000. It's easy to wonder whether something like the G30 is still relevant.</p>
<p>In my opinion, it is. All of those big-numbers lights have some fine print clarifying their limitations: 9000 lumens for 150 seconds, followed by 1800, or 3200 for 90 seconds, followed by 1000. The G30 has no such fine print: under typical conditions, it makes 2450 lumens until it hits the low-voltage stepdown - about an hour with my 3000 mAh LG HG2 batteries. It takes another 30 minutes to step down to the lowest mode, at which point the batteries are around 3.1V. The G30 is a light to <strong>use</strong> for extended periods of time, not just to show off for a few seconds. The G30 also costs substantially less.</p>
<p>The <a href="http://imgur.com/4OintUC.jpg">beam of light</a> the G30 produces is the nicest I've seen on a higher-output, mass-produced light. The tint is a nice 5000K, slightly to the rosy side of sunlight. The color is fairly even across all parts of the beam. The hotspot is large, as one would expect from an emitter that dwarfs even the XHP70. The transition to spill is a smooth gradient and the spill itself is quite bright. This is not a pure flood light, and my testing suggests the claimed 220m FL1 throw is underrated: I measured 265m using <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/62mao0/introducing_ceilingbounce_flashlight_testing_for/">Ceilingbounce</a> and my Nexus 5. This considerably exceeds that of any of the ultra-high-output soup can lights in their stepped-down modes. The G30's performance reminds me of the FET triples popular with hobbyists, but with a useful runtime of 60 minutes instead of 60 seconds.</p>
<p><a href="http://imgur.com/3Ffb5Rs.jpg">Outdoor beamshot</a> - the camera doesn't do it justice; I could see everything in this space pretty well.</p>
<p>I do have some complaints, however and most are to do with the user interface. It's not <em>bad</em>: it has shortcuts to the lowest, last used and (momentary) highest modes, as well as strobe, because, of course, we all use strobe regularly. A short press of either switch turns the G30 on to the last-used mode, additional short presses cycle through modes in a descending order and a long press turns it off. From off, a long press on the side switch turns the light on in low, and a long press on the tail switch turns it in high until released. The shortcut to high is available while on, but first it cycles through <em>off</em>, which is a little awkward. More awkward is that a double-click is a shortcut to strobe from on or off. That means attempting to cycle through modes too quickly activates strobe. A second double-click from strobe activates SOS. A short press returns to the previous state. A long press turns the light off.</p>
<p>If G30 were a pocket EDC light, the potential to accidentally activate strobe while changing modes combined with a long-press to turn off would get the G30 an immediate negative review. I see the use cases for the G30 being a bit different though: it gets turned on to the desired mode and then used for many minutes or even hours. Sure, I'd prefer a different UI without blinky modes, an additional sub-lumen mode, and the ability to change modes in either direction, but I find the G30 UI acceptable for its use case. The shortcuts from off are nice to have, and the three higher modes are evenly spaced, visually. My one other UI complaint would be that the side switch is hard to find by feel, but the presence of a tailswitch makes up for that.</p>
<p>I like the G30. It's a good size, with good performance, a nice looking, useful beam and an acceptable user interface. It's well-suited to use around the house, in a car, ATV or boat and for hiking and camping where a large amount of light is needed for a long time.</p>
<ul>
<li>+ Stable output</li>
<li>+ Doesn't overheat under most conditions</li>
<li>+ Nice 5000K tint</li>
<li>+ Nice beam shape</li>
<li>+ Compact size for a 3x18650 light</li>
<li>
<p>+ Shortcuts to low, last-used and (momentary) high</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>- The UI can be a little awkward</p>
</li>
<li>- It's possible to activate strobe by accident while cycling modes - this is annoying enough to get its own line item aside from the general awkwardness</li>
<li>- No anti-roll - there are flats on parts of the body, but they don't make it to the edge</li>
</ul>
<h1>Details and technical analysis</h1>
<h2>Accessories</h2>
<p>The G30 includes a user manual, lanyard and spare O-rings. A holster would have been nice because it's a great size for carrying on a belt holster or attached to a MOLLE backpack. I've been using a Nitecore EC4 holster. It fits nicely. Here's <a href="http://imgur.com/id17m6x.jpg">everything in the box</a>.</p>
<h2>Modes and user interface</h2>
<p>The readings I took with my <a href="http://imgur.com/xmGtcUQ.jpg">integrating shoebox</a> were a close match for advertised output on every mode.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Advertised lumens</th>
<th>Tested lumens</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>15</td>
<td>20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>300</td>
<td>294</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>900</td>
<td>936</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2450</td>
<td>2400</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Throw, however was considerably higher, which is consistent with my perception that the G30 has more throw than the average 1x18650 tube light.</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Advertised throw (meters)</th>
<th>Measured throw</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>17 (calculated)</td>
<td>24</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>77 (calculated)</td>
<td>95</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>133 (calculated)</td>
<td>167</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>220</td>
<td>265</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The UI is as follows:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Initial state</th>
<th>Action</th>
<th>End state</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Short click either switch</td>
<td>Last-used steady mode</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long click side switch</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Long click tailswitch</td>
<td>High (momentary)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Off</td>
<td>Double-click either switch</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Short click either switch</td>
<td>Next mode (H -> L)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Long click either switch</td>
<td>Off</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Longer click tail switch</td>
<td>High (momentary; returns to previous mode on release)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>On</td>
<td>Double-click either switch</td>
<td>Strobe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe</td>
<td>Double-click either switch</td>
<td>SOS</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Strobe/SOS</td>
<td>Short click either switch</td>
<td>Previous state (steady mode or off)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Batteries</h2>
<p>The G30 uses three 18650 batteries in a series configuration. The batteries always have a higher voltage than the LED requires, so the only voltage-related dimming is the intentional stepdown to prevent over-discharge of the batteries. Reverse-polarity protection is advertised, but I did not attempt to install batteries incorrectly to test it. All 18650 batteries, flat or button-top, protected or unprotected fit and make contact in the G30.</p>
<p>As with all series lights, it is dangerous to use batteries that are not the same make and model, in similar condition and in the same state of charge. Reverse-charging can occur if one battery has much less capacity than the others or is discharged while the others are full. Reverse-charging can cause a fire or explosion. The G30 reduces the risk by stepping down to lower modes when the total voltage is low, blinking the side indicator light red and eventually periodically blinking the main LED to get the user's attention. It does not, however shut off completely, and I discharged a set of batteries to 2.12V, 1.91V and 2.18V, which is below the recommended minimum for any standard chemistry 18650 cell.</p>
<p>There is a battery indicator under the side switch, showing green, yellow, red or blinking red depending on the battery voltage for a few seconds after the light is turned on. Slightly loosening the tailcap breaks the connection to the batteries, locking out the light. The low-voltage stepdowns seem a little conservative to me, starting when the batteries are at about 3.6V each, but with three cells in series, a bit of conservatism reduces the risk of dangerous reverse-charging.</p>
<h2>Output and runtime</h2>
<p>The G30's series battery configuration provides for stable output in all modes as the batteries drain. There is a thermal sensor, and it will throttle output after 8-10 minutes on max in warm, still air, but cool air, any amount of wind or the airflow from walking with the light is sufficient cooling to prevent throttling. When throttled, the G30 increases output again if cooled. The surface of the light gets warm to the touch, but never so hot as to be uncomfortable to hold.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://imgur.com/fHdAe1x.png">High, cooled</a></li>
<li><a href="http://imgur.com/UcljegG.png">Cooling test</a> - fan applied at 18 minutes</li>
<li><a href="http://imgur.com/IGxJvuU.png">Medium-high, uncooled</a></li>
</ul>
<p>On high, with cooling, times were as follows using LG HG2 3000 mAh batteries:</p>
<ul>
<li>80%: 66 minutes</li>
<li>50%: 66 minutes</li>
<li>10% (FL1): 90 minutes</li>
</ul>
<p>On medium, times were:</p>
<ul>
<li>80%: 217 minutes</li>
<li>50%: 217 minutes</li>
<li>10% (FL1): 229 minutes</li>
</ul>
<p>Advertised times of 100 minutes and 340 minutes to 10%, respectively were with 3400 mAh batteries. The former sounds about right, but I think the latter is optimistic.</p>
<p>The standby power consumption is 0.25mA, which would drain the batteries in about 16 months. For long-term storage, the tailcap should be locked out.</p>
<h2>Ergonomics and construction</h2>
<p>The G30 is the size and shape of a Red Bull can. It's comfortable for users with various hand sizes to hold and works well in a holster attached to a belt or backpack. The tailswitch is easy to press with an index finger in an overhand grip, though I found it a bit awkward with my thumb. The side switch can be hard to find by feel, but it's possible to index from the flat on the opposite side. The body has light knurling on the middle section, but I found myself wishing it was a little more aggressive when using the light with gloves. There's a lanyard hole on the side of the body, not the tailcap, and I've actually been using the included lanyard, which I usually don't find useful with lights.</p>
<p><a href="http://imgur.com/6STzl8A.jpg">Comparison with other lights</a>: Acebeam K70, Klarus G30, Nitecore EC4, Convoy S6 (triple), Zebralight SC62w (broken)</p>
<p>The flats on some portions of the body don't extend to the edges and do not prevent rolling on a flat surface. The light rolls easily when set on its side on my desk, only stopped by the lanyard, if installed. It can tailstand, and is fairly stable doing so, but the tailswitch protrudes just enough to keep it from sitting perfectly flat.</p>
<p>The machining is good, with no visible marks, smooth, square-cut threads and smooth, thick anodizing. The threads and O-ring came fairly dry, and I would suggest lubricating them.</p>
<h2>Modification potential</h2>
<p>I've decided to start including modifications in reviews. Some people just can't leave well enough alone, and I'm one of them.</p>
<p>The G30's bezel is glued in place tightly enough that I couldn't get it off with a strap wrench even when warm. Two large strap wrenches might be sufficient. I did find pictures of a removed bezel on BLF, so I know it's possible. The only change that would make much sense to me is a different MT-G2 with a warmer tint or higher CRI, but it's possible to use other 6V emitters like the Nichia 144A, Cree XHP50 or Cree XHP70. Unfortunately, I can't find a picture of the MCPCB. I quite like the beam of the stock G30 though, so unless an exciting new 6V LED shows up, I'm not rushing out to get a second strap wrench.</p>