In honor of Winter Solstice for the northern hemisphere, I've made an updated list of popular lights. Today is the day you're most likely to need a flashlight north of the equator[.](http://zakreviews.com/static/photos/fw3a/derivatives/article-image/DSC_0500(1).JPG)
Because a definitive buyer's guide is too hard, I've made an arbitrary list of popular lights you should consider if you're shopping for a light. There is no best flashlight, so this is not the last word in what's good, but a list of lights that are often bought or recommended here with a touch of my own opinion thrown in. Exclusion from this list doesn't mean a light isn't good. To search more lights by their attributes, try http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html
Where possible, sites where I am compensated for certain purchases using affiliate codes are linked here. Sometimes the manufacturer offers good deals through direct orders, sometimes vendors have the best prices. There are coupon codes available that apply to many of the lights listed. The canonical version is hosted on reddit without affiliate links. You can use the affiliate coupon code "zakreviews" at Killzone Flashlights for a discount on most lights.
Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:
- Neutral white tint - the vast majority of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"
- A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges
- A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off
- A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes
- An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer
- A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway
- Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is 99. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.
- A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)
- A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes
- A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off.
Lumens are total output. Don't worry about small differences in output. You probably can't detect a 10% difference in lumens with your eyes, and 20% is barely noticeable. It takes 4 times the lumens to look twice as bright. Candela is intensity, which translates to throw distance. FL1 throw numbers are about right for detecting large objects; cut them in half for seeing clearly. Extreme throw distances also run in to limits imposed by human vision and by backscatter in the atmosphere. Warmer tints have less backscatter.
FL1 runtime numbers are to 10% output and can be misleading. Look for a review with a runtime graph.
Performance specs for AA and AAA powered lights are usually given with NiMH rechargeable batteries. Alkalines don't perform as well, and may leak corrosive electrolyte.
If you want something particularly powerful or long-lasting, you should probably skip right to the 18650-powered lights. This battery significantly outperforms other options, especially alkalines.
For this release, I'm splitting the list into a mainstream section, and an enthusiast section. Lights in the mainstream section are generally stocked at dealers in the US and EU, probably have a warranty of some sort if they cost more than $50, often come with a battery and have onboard charging, and should have a low rate of defects or anything the user needs to tweak. Lights in the mainstream section are usually fairly simple to operate without much configurability, but there are a couple exceptions.
Lights in the enthusiast section often ship from China, may have safety concerns, might need calibration or adjustment to work correctly, etc.... Enthusiast lights often offer exceptional performance under certain circumstances, and opportunities for customization. These often have open source firmwares with a lot of opportunity for customization, but may be easy to configure right into an unusable state.
Everyday Carry Lights
These are selected for pocketability first and performance second, but most of the larger options are perfectly adequate for house/car/camping/etc... uses. This section excludes right-angle designs that double as headlamps, but many people do use those for pocket carry, so see that section as well.
- Nitecore Tube - a brighter, variable output, USB-charging replacement for button-cell keychain lights with shortcuts to high and low modes from off. $10
- Nitecore TIP CRI - a bigger Tube with more output, neutral white tint, 90+ CRI and a dual-switch user interface that has shortcuts to low, high and last-used modes. Due to the user interface and color rendering, this is still probably a better option for most people than the new TIP 2 $35
- The Cooyoo Quantum, and rebranded versions by several manufacturers such as the Fenix UC02. There are versions in more exotic metals including stainless steel, copper and titanium. This uses a removable 10180 size Li-ion battery and has USB charging. $25 (for the Fenix in aluminum)
- Rovyvon Aurora A3x (Nichia 219C version) - neutral tint, 90 CRI, 450 lumens (briefly), USB charging, under 20g weight. Non-removable battery, so this will eventually wear out. $33
- Sofirn C01s - 1xAAA, neutral tint, 95+ CRI, twisty switch with two modes (100lm and 3lm). Pocket clip or keychain carry. $10
- Lumintop IYP07 - a 1xAAA tailswitch option with three modes (5, 40, 130 lumens), three colors (black, silver, pink), and two LED options, of which only the neutral white, high-CRI Nichia 219C is worth considering. $22
- Fenix LD02 2.0 - 1xAAA, tailswitch, warm white, high-CRI, and a UV secondary. 1 lumen low, 70 lumens high. $30
- Fenix LD05 2.0 - 2xAAA, 100lm max, and the same features as the above. $40
- Thrunite Ti4 - 2xAAA - Neutral white available. Titanium sometimes available. High output for this form factor. $20
- Lumintop IYP365 Nichia 219C - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI (Nichia version only) and neutral white. Not as bright as a Ti4, but light quality is often more important for being able to see clearly. $24
- Nitecore MT06MD - 2xAAA, 90+ CRI, neutral white, and still shipping with the Nichia 219B as far as I know. Similar to the IYP365 on paper, but many people prefer the tint of the 219B over the 219C. $32
- Thrunite T10 II - a side-switch light supporting both AA and 14500 Li-ion batteries with shortcuts from off to high and low and a magnetic tailcap. Neutral white available and recommended. $20
- Zebralight SC53c - 90+ CRI, warm-neutral white, e-switch with shortcuts to low, medium and high with several sub-levels for each. $57
- Thrunite Archer 1A - a dual-switch 1xAA light that can also use 14500. 200 lumens with AA, about 450 with 14500. $30
- Sofirn SP10S - 1xAA/1x14500, 90+ CRI with a Samsung LH351D LED and black, blue, or red body color. Slightly awkward UI with a long-press to turn off, but it may be worth it for the low price and high color quality. $16
- Acebeam TK16 (SST-20 version only) - 95+ CRI, neutral white, tail e-switch with shortcuts to lowest, highest, and last-used, plus two mode groups so you can choose between sensible runtimes and impressing your friends with the 1250 lumen peak output. 0.5 lumen moonlight. Battery included, but you'll need a separate charger. If you were considering the Olight S1 line, get this instead. Also available in copper. $55
- Thrunite T1 (neutral white suggested) - 1x18350 (included), MicroUSB charging, magnetic tailcap, 1500 lumen max mode with a ramping UI for medium levels. $40, usually
This category is so popular it gets subcategories. If you're looking for a lot of power and runtime that's still possible to carry in most pants pockets, this is your battery.
A tailswitch controls power, a sideswitch changes brightness. The ease of explaning the UI makes these perfect to hand out to others.
- Thrunite TN12 - comes in neutral white, has a separate mode switch, can tailstand, has a moonlight mode, modes appear evenly-spaced. This may well be the most frequently recommended light on /r/flashlight. $40
- Eagletac DX30LC2 - slimmer than most 18650 lights, with a unique take on the dual-switch interface: it always starts on high, unless the mode switch is held, in which case it starts on low. Longer throw than most, neutral white available from some dealers. $75
- Thrunite TC12 - essentially a TN12 with USB charging, a thermal sensor to limit temperature, low-voltage protection and a battery included. $70
- [Sofirn SP31 v2.0] - efficient driver and XP-L HI emitter for more throw than most lights in this class. Cool white only, unfortunately, but a good value with the features of the Fenix PD32 at half the price. $29 alone, or $36 with battery and charger.
- Acebeam EC35 II (Killzone Nichia 219C version) This has a bit different UI than the others here. The tailswitch is alawys high, with half-press for momentary. The side siwtch is an electronic switch with shortcuts from off to low, last-used, and high. This offers versatility in combination with dead-simple reliability under stress. USB-C charging (note: requires A-to-C cable; does not charge from C-to-C), optional battery, and it's a USB powerbank (powerbank function does work with C-to-C). $58 by itself, or $68 with a battery.
Electronic switches enable shortcuts from off to useful modes - usually lowest, highest, and last-used.
- Zebralight SC64c LE - the SC6x series has long been an EDC favorite for their compact size, high efficiency, great low modes, and a user interface that was well ahead of the competition when it came out. Now, many would prefer ToyKeeper's Anduril firmware as used on the FW3A and D4v2, but Zebralight has added some configuration options that should keep most users happy. The 828 lumen max output sounds low next to today's hot-rods, but lights this size can't sustain more than that for longer than 5 minutes without burning the user's hand. $80
- Zebraligh SC64w HI - the above, trading some color quality for more output and throw. $80
- Thrunite Neutron 2C - like an e-switch TC12 with continuous ramping between 12 and 650 lumens and additional 0.5 and 1100 lumen modes. Available neutral white. Shortcuts from off to low, high and last-used. USB charging. It's possible to take out half the battery tube and use a shorter 18350 battery. An 18650 battery is included. $40
- Thrunite TC15 - like the Neutron in form, but trades battery flexibility for 2300 lumens turn-on output and replaces the ramping UI with fixed modes. $50
- Wowtac A6 - a budget option under 100mm long. MicroUSB, battery included, optional neutral white, 1460 lumen burst mode. $30
Right-angle lights and headlamps
If I could have only one portable light, it would be a right-angle light that functions as both an everyday carry light and a headlamp. Some lights in this form factor also offer a magnetic tailcap, allowing them to act as mountable area lights.
- Zebralight H53c - All the Zebralight goodness described above for the SC64c LE, but in a right-angle, 1xAA form factor. The Cree XP-L2 may make a less attractive beam than the Samsung LH351D, but most people report Zebralight's optics smooth it out well. H53Fc for a frosted lens for a very even beam. This one even comes with a pocket clip, and the headband does not have the top strap the 18650 versions do. $59
- Thrunite TH20 - 1xAA headlamp available in neutral white with infinite ramping and shortcuts from off to low/high. $30
- Acebeam H40 with 95 CRI Luminus SST-20. This is very similar to the TH20, but trades having a good sub-lumen low for high CRI. It would be nice to have both in the same light, but for that, you'll need a soldering iron. $35
- Fenix HL10 - a 1xAAA headlamp that weighs 40 grams with a lithium battery. It's here so /r/ultralight doesn't feel left out, as I would recommend something with a larger battery for a primary headlamp. This would make a good backup. Two is one. $30
- Thrunite TH01 - 1x18350 battery dedicated headlamp, 1500 lumens burst (450 stable). This is a USB-charged option without going to the larger 18650 battery. $40
All of these use one 18650 battery.
- Skilhunt H04 - the popular version has a honeycomb TIR optic for a diffuse beam pattern. A reflector for more throw and a version with a reflector and a flip-out diffuser are sometimes available. Uses a timed stepdown. Available in neutral white. Magnetic tailcap. Optional magnetic charging. $41
- Wowtac A2/A2S - another budget option, this time with a reflector. Both come with an 18650 that has a USB charge port right on the battery, but can be used with any 18650. The A2S also offers neutral white, which I recommend. $16/25
- Zebralight H600w IV - very compact, neutral white, great efficiency, well-regarded user interface, boost driver. What's not to love? The pocket clip isn't so good. $89
- Zebralight H600Fd IV - the above with 90+ CRI, a frosted lens for a more diffuse beam and a slightly cooler neutral tint that's a close match for the midday sun. $89
- Zebralight H600Fc IV - the H600Fd, but with warmer tint, like the late afternoon sun. $89
- Zebralight H604d - the H600Fd with no reflector and a clear lens for a very floody, perfectly even beam. $89
- Zebralight H604c - if you've read the above, this needs no explanation. $89
- YLP Panda 2M CRI - 1x18650 dedicated headlamp, with high-CRI neutral white LH351Ds. Not the most efficient, but the light quality is great and with an 18650 battery, most people won't mind. $35
- Thrunite TH10 V2 - over 300m throw in a right-angle light for those who need it. USB charging, and battery included. A bit more bulky than most. $60
- Armytek Elf C2 - USB charging, floody, and a removable magnet in the tailcap, with a headband mount that allows quick installation and removal, even with the pocket clip in place. $65
- Acebeam H30 - 21700 battery (also compatible with 18650), USB-C charging, powerbank function, 4000 lumen main output with optional neutral white, red secondary, choice between a green secondary, UV secondary, or a high-CRI Nichia 219C secondary. Boost driver for stable output when the battery is low or cold. Many people would consider this too heavy for a headlamp, but it weighs a lot less than a motorcycle helmet. Noncompliant USB-C behavior requires charging with an A-to-C cable. $120
- Fenix HP30R - 2x18650 batteries in a remote holder that can be worn under a jacket. This is probably the most reliable battery option for extreme cold environments as the batteries can be kept warm. The battery case features USB charging and can be used as a USB powerbank. There are flood and spot emitters, which make 750 and 1000 lumens respectively, and can be used together for 1750 lumens. This is the heaviest headlamp on the list by far, but much of the weight is in the battery pack. $130
These are suitable for first responders and possibly members of the military in combat roles. The focus is on simple operation, reliability and a good way to make sure the light starts on high.
- Acebeam L30 - 4000 lumens from a single 18650 or 21700 (included). Neutral white available and recommended. Not the prettiest light, but there's a lot of it, and enough thermal mass to sustain it for a few minutes. Stable output without overheating is 2000 lumens. Forward-clicky tailswith is always max output, but the side switch has shortcuts to low and last-used. USB charging. $110
- Thrunite TT10 - very similar to the L30, but a bit slimmer, a bit less output, less throw, a dedicated strobe button, and lower price. $90
- Acebeam L16 5000K - the L16 is like the L30, but a little smaller, considerably more throwy (603m claimed, but usually tests a bit lower) and 18650/CR123A-only. I hated the harshness and backscatter of the original cool white emitter, but Killzone Flashlights has commissioned a run in 5000K (neutral white). As of this writing, they're the only place to get one in the US. Nkon has them in Europe. $100
- Eagletac GX30L2 Pro - for those who want a better Streamlight Stinger. 2x18650. Neutral white with XHP35 HI recommended for more natural color and throw distance. Onboard charging. Neutral white optional. The included battery pack is just two 18650s in series. It says not to charge standard 18650s, but there's no technical reason for that, and it is reported to work. Protected cells recommended. $155
- Olight M2R Compact, magnetic charging, uses a standard 18650 unlike most of Olight's range. This would be easier to recommend if it still offered neutral white, but some may find the magnetic charger compelling. Avoid the Pro version, as it uses a proprietary battery and does not function at all with a standard one. $100
- Skylumen M2Rvn - about that neutral white... and it gains over 100m of throw in the process by switching to the XHP35 HI. This is a modified Olight M2R with different warranty terms from the original, so read those carefully. $120
- Acebeam T36 Another compact option, which does offer neutral white (5000K). Like the L30, it uses a 21700 (included) or 18650 battery, and the same user interface. USB-C charging. $110
Most lights on the list are easy to carry, with performance constrained by size and thermal mass as a result. After all, the best light is the one you have. Here are lights to bring when you know you'll be using them.
Turn night into day, but not necessarily very far away
- Thrunite TC20 - 1x26650, 1xXHP70.2. This is still small enough for a jacket pocket, but has a bigger battery than most EDC lights, and a spectacular 180 lm/W efficiency on medium. USB charging. Ugly tint, even when neutral. 3800 lumen max, and more efficient than most competitors in all modes. $72 with standing "20%" coupon code
- Acebeam X45 - 4x18650, not pretty even in neutral white, but it makes 18,000 lumens. $180
- Sofirn SP36 BLF edition - 3x18650, 4xLH351D, Anduril firmware, USB-C charging. Be careful, there's another version of this light with Cree XP-L2 emitters, which are ugly. There's currently a bundle with Sofirn batteries on US Amazon for a very small additional cost, but these usually don't come with batteries. 90+ CRI, 5500+ lumens, 350m FL1 throw. This replaces the BLF Q8 in the list due to the LEDs offered and USB-C charging, though the Q8 is easier to disassemble for those interested in modifications. $50
What's that over there? WAY over there? The hotspots of these lights tend to be too focused for comfortable use up close, though using a diffuser is an option. These tend to be most useful for search and rescue, boating, and the like.
FL1 throw is the distance at which large objects can be detected in clear air. At half that distance, there's usually enough illumination to see clearly, though with more extreme throwers, the distances may be so great as to require binoculars to see clearly even during the day. Throwers have visible backscatter from the atmosphere even in clear air, which may obstruct the user's view of the target. Warmer color temperatures tend to have less.
- Wowtac A4v2 - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging, 1982 lumens and 564m throw according to zeroair. The A4v2 isn't quite a pure thrower; it's more versatile than that. Boost driver for near-full output even when the battery is low and better performance in the cold - that's rare to see in the A4's price/performance category. $50, but check for coupons
- Thrunite Catapult V6 - 1x26650, MicroUSB charging. This is the Wowtac A4, but with a more expensive shell and a bigger reflector for more throw. $70 with a coupon code
- Acebeam T27 - 1x21700/18650. This is like a thrower version of the L30 duty light above, though its charging is USB-C, and oddly, it can act as a USB powerbank. Boost driver for full output on a low battery. 5000K recommended. 1180m FL1 throw. Noncompliant USB-C behavior requires charging with an A-to-C cable. $140
- Haikelite MT07S HI - 4x18650, 1200m FL1 throw, neutral white offered and recommended. Lots of thermal mass and battery capacity for extended use. $90
- Thrunite TN42 - 4x18650, 1550m FL1 throw advertised, 1700m observed by reviewers. $160
Some throw, some flood... probably a lot
- Thrunite TN40S - 4x18650, 4xXP-L HI, 4450lm, 1151m FL1 throw. A big light from a solid manufacturer that can do a bit of everything. $140
- Imalent MS18 - proprietary battery pack, 18xXHP70.2. Heat pipes. Fan cooling. 100,000 lumens. 1350m FL1 throw. This thing weighs 5 pounds, isn't waterproof, sounds like a jet engine, and I trust Imalent's build quality about as far as I can throw an MS18, not to mention the price. It makes no sense for nearly any practical purpose, but it's the brightest flashlight you can buy, so it goes on the list. $500
Stuff that doesn't fit somewhere else goes here.
- Pelican 3315 CC - 3xAA, 130 lumens, intrinsically safe. The only reason to get this is because an intrinsically safe light is required. This is the least bad option with a warm color temperature and high CRI. $55
- Viltrox L116T - a 95 CRI, adjustable color temperature LED panel intended to be used as a camera light with adjustable output from about 200 lumens to 1000 lumens. Also works great as fixed lighting with a DC power supply, or a portable area light with a Sony NP-F camera battery. A battery holder and a bit of soldering will allow it to run on 2x18650. $32
- Viltrox VL162T - similar to the above, but more focused, and with a small amount of visible tint shift at the edges of the beam. $37
- Viltrox VL200T - The 2500 lumen version of the L116T. DC power supply included. $68
- Litufoto F12 (AKA Viltrox FA-D10) - A smartphone-sized LED panel with 96+ CRI, adjustable color temperature, USB-C power (note: noncompliant, A-to-C only), and sealed Li-ion battery. 800 lumens on high with 80 minute runtime, 70 lumens lowest, adjusts in 5% increments. This would even be viable as floody EDC flashlight if it wasn't for the obnoxiously long press for on/off. $46 on US Amazon
- Lumintop FW3A - this light was designed by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It's unusual in having a tail e-switch, while most others position it on the side. It has an open source firmware with continuous brightness adjustment and lots of options. 2800 lumen max (briefly), about 800 lumens relatively sustainable (thermally regulated). There are currently five LED options, and I would recommend most people go with one of the high-CRI options. Luminus SST-20 for more throw and less heat, but the Nichia 219C may have more pleasant tint. Caution: this light requires an unprotected, 10A rated battery and can set things that get too close to its lens on fire. This has fairly inefficient electronics, but the large capacity of the 18650 battery makes that a minor issue for a lot of use cases. There are titanium, copper, etc... versions for more money. $40
- Lumintop FW1A - an FW3A with fewer emitters (one) and more reflector (again, one, in place of the FW3A's TIR optic). Less output, more throw, less demanding on the battery. $40
- Emisar D4v2 - every flashlight geek's favorite way to burn a hole in their pocket has been upgraded. It now comes with colored aux LEDs that can serve as a decoration, locator, and battery status indicator. Some versions of this light can exceed 4000 output at power-on, though efficiency is not one of its goals, even at lower levels. Not to be outdone by the FW3A, there are eight LED options, from which I'd suggest the 4000K, 95+ CRI SST-20 to most people. Optional extras include a tailcap magnet, steel bezel, pocket clip, 18350 and 18500 battery tubes, and different optics. There are exposed programming headers on the battery side of the driver for those who want to modify the firmware, or just keep it up to date with ToyKeeper's latest revisions. That's right, it's 2019 and you can get software updates for your flashlight. $45
- Convoy S2+/SST-20 - Popular light for DIY and modification. Many parts are available from the manufacturer and Mountain Electronics. S2+ linked. S3 is similar, but with a removable steel bezel. S6 has a deeper reflector for a narrower spill and longer throw. Recently updated with the high-CRI Luminus SST-20 LED, which is strongly recommended over the prior options. The high-CRI Nichia 219C is also available, for those who want a bigger hotspot or different color temperature options. "Body color" is actually drive current. Mor 7135 chips means more power, which means more output, shorter battery life, and more heat. x6 is a reasonable choice that should never get too hot to hold. x3 or x4 for giving to people who will waste the battery. x8 for max output. Convoy will assemble other combinations of compatible parts not listed in their store - just contact them and ask. $15
Jacket pocket, maybe
- Convoy C8 XP-L HI (new firmware version) - 1x18650. Most people prefer the neutral white 3A tint. This isn't in the performance class of the other high-output lights, but it's over 500m FL1 throw that fits in a jacket pocket for $25 or less. Note that there are a lot of C8s on the market from different companies, but this C8 is the one most people should get. High-CRI Luminus SST-20 available by request. $25
- Haikelite SC04 - 1x26650/2x26650, 4xSST-20. The neutral white option is 95+ CRI and about 3000 lumens with 500+ meters FL1 throw. Side e-switch with a ramping UI and shortcuts. 2x26650 configuration is probably suitable for thumping someone on the head for those who miss that aspect of the classic Maglite. Boost driver for stable output when the batteries are low. This replaces the Convoy L6 on the list due to its LED choice and switch position. $60
- Emisar D4Sv2 - 1x26650, four emitters, lots of options. This is very similar to the D4v2 from the EDC section, but with a bigger battery, more thermal mass, and more throw. 3000-5000 lumens, 280-480m FL1 throw. SST-20 4000K recommended for most users. $50
- Emisar D18 - 3x18650, 18xSST-20 (XP-L HI by request). 4000K recommended for 10,000 lumens of 95+ CRI light (thermally limited). Efficiency is not a goal with this model's FET driver, but the battery capacity will make up for it for a lot of use cases. Uses ToyKeeper's excellent open source Anduril firmware. $100
- Astrolux FT03 SST-40 FET driver, SST-40, big reflector, 26650/21700/18650 and USB-C (probably only A-to-C) charging. 955m throw and 2313 lumens according to zeroair. There's also an XHP50.2 version that trades some of the throw for output. $32
- Noctigon K1 - 1x21700, USB-C charging, and probably the most throw of any single-cell LED flashlight (LEPs are impressive, but not quite ready for prime time). 1600m FL1 throw with the Osram White Flat 1, but there's a case to be made for each of the other options, including a 95 CRI SST-20. There's an XHP35 HI option with a boost driver in the works, and possibly a Luminus SBT-90. $80
- Astrolux MF01 Mini - 1x26650/21700/18650, 7 Luminus SST-20s (4000K, 95 CRI available), USB-C, Anduril firmware, FET driver, aux LEDs. Like a bigger D4v2 with more emitters and a USB port.
- BLF GT - 8x18650, over 2000m FL1 throw. 4000K neutral white available and recommended. Do you want to win a display of machismo against a lighthouse? This is your flashlight. $180 (on Banggood at the time of this writing)
- Astrolux MF01S - 4x18650, 18 Luminus SST-20s, comes in colors. 4000K is high CRI and recommended. Anduril firmware. $100
These lights look good, but are too untested to include, or have unresolved issues. They'll get moved to the main list after sufficient positive reviews, user reports, or confirmation that problematic issues have been resolved. They'll get removed if serious problems show up.
- Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144A - this light was my idea. After reviewing the Wizard Pro XHP50, I convinced them to put a 90 CRI, 4500K Nichia 144A in it. It took a couple years, but they did, and it is glorious. One of these is in my pocket as I write this. It has all the goodness of the original, with a battery included, magnetic charging, right-angle form factor that can be used as a handheld, a headlamp, or a magnetically attached area light, boost driver for stable output and good performance in the cold, excellent waterproofing, a great low mode, and shortcuts from off to low, medium, and high. So why's it down here in pending? On the prototype review samples, it doesn't have low-voltage protection, which all Armyteks have for as long as I know. Combined with a boost driver, that means it can drain the included unprotected battery below the minimum safe voltage with very little warning. Armytek says this will be fixed in the production version, but I can only recommend it in combination with a 10A-rated protected 18650 until I know that's fixed. $90, but try coupon codes "BLF35", "reddit", and "review", in that order.
- Wurkkos FC11 - 18650 EDC light, high-CRI Samsung LH351D, battery included, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging, e-switch with the option of fixed modes or ramping. Wurkkos is affiliated with Sofirn, and this seems very much like some SP36S parts found their way into an SC31. This went on sale very recently and I've only seen one review so far, so it's pending. If it doesn't have any major issues, there's a lot to like for $30.
- Astrolux HL01 - a 1x18650/18350 right-angle light with a choice of XP-L or high-CRI SST-20, USB-C, magnetic tailcap, Anduril firmware. Has not shipped yet and potential issues are not known. $25 with a coupon code.
Battery and charger advice is getting relocated to the wiki. Please stand by.